Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Car Chat => Topic started by: mikesomega on 27 March 2012, 13:26:14
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The inside edge it seems as if pad isn't touching it, but it is. Is that a caliper problem, bent maybe, got it on both front discs.
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I've read a bit about brakes recently (as per my thread today).
Are you getting steering shaking when you brake?
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not a shake, but pulls left under braking.
caliper seems free
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assuming there's no other issue like tyres i think replacing the pad would cure it but you best get one of the oof experts to check what im saying as i'm new to this :)
but i do know that discs can warp like a vinyl record left in the sun so getting them, erplaced would be my first port of call :)
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I would remove the pads, wind the pistons back in and make sure the caliper is free to slide smoothly on the pins that retain it.
If not, remove the pins and clean them, then re-lubricate with some lithium grease and reassemble, replacing the pads and disk if they are too unevenly worn.
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discs will need skimming, so was going to go to halfords and get some pads.
is this a common problem, as wear is same both sides
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I've heard about skimming/machining.
How much does that cost as brake kits are cheap on TC :)
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i have a mate who can do them "after hours" for a couple of pints if the guvner isnt in
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i have a mate who can do them "after hours" for a couple of pints if the guvner isnt in
Not worth the hassle ........... they're likely to end up under sized even if they're running true. ;) ;)
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i have a mate who can do them "after hours" for a couple of pints if the guvner isnt in
I get ya ;)
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i had a similar prob both discs looked fine & calipers seemed to be working ok,
but had a slightly warped o/s disc which was making the n/s pull on 1st making it brake left,
but when cleaning & replacing all the discs/pads i noticed 2 slight groves in the carrier which was making the pads jam & not sliding which caused the warped disc on o/s
its defo worth removing all of it & cleaning it all up & repaint carrier to stop them rusting etc
regrease sliders & put very small amount of copperslip on the edge of pads where they slide in the carrier :y
check pads for cracks & glazing rough file across pads can help take glaze off them..
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Check as Kevin suggests, but they all seem to do it. Certainly mine do.
I painted my new ones silver to try and keep the rust at bay a bit, but the only real remedy is to replace them. In fact if measured they are most likely approaching minimum thickness anyway.
Gm front disc and pad set from vx on trade club sub £100 Inc vat.
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i have a mate who can do them "after hours" for a couple of pints if the guvner isnt in
Not worth the hassle ........... they're likely to end up under sized even if they're running true. ;) ;)
Not measured depth but seems to be loads of meat left on. If all it costs is a Carlsberg and pack of cheese and onion, got 2 be worth a try. i will measure depth beforehand before getting jonno to do them
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100 quid :o r they better than the 60 quid ones from the bay
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100 quid :o r they better than the 60 quid ones from the bay
In the long run ........ probably yes, you're less likely to need to replace the OE discs due to warping. (£100 + discs & pads)
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Check caliper slides are free and not seized mate
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Check caliper slides are free and not seized mate
Are they a main cause for spongy brakes/low down pedal?
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Check caliper slides are free and not seized mate
Are they a main cause for spongy brakes/low down pedal?
Yes and fluid that's past its best.
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Check caliper slides are free and not seized mate
Are they a main cause for spongy brakes/low down pedal?
Yes and fluid that's past its best.
:y :y :y
cheers mate.
when i press the brake on my good car i press it 3 times and it won't depress anymore.
on ralf, i'd say the pedal's half way down and doesn't come right up :-\
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If you have fitted new pads to "ralph" then until car is driven and pads have bedded in the pedal will be shite anyway,what was it like before you started?
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If you have fitted new pads to "ralph" then until car is driven and pads have bedded in the pedal will be shite anyway,what was it like before you started?
no mate, was just practising the job so put old pads back. but i did move the caliper piston back.
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mikesomega - seems a common thing, I have to replace my discs every 2 years, not due to wear, but that same inside face problem. Genuine GM discs and pads, pattern have given me grief.
webby - spongyness is normally kanckered fluid rather than knackered calipers. Omega has a fair amount of pedal travel due to progressive brakes. Unlike that shitbox Focus of yours, where fart on the pedal causes a lockup.
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mikesomega - seems a common thing, I have to replace my discs every 2 years, not due to wear, but that same inside face problem. Genuine GM discs and pads, pattern have given me grief.
webby - spongyness is normally kanckered fluid rather than knackered calipers. Omega has a fair amount of pedal travel due to progressive brakes. Unlike that shitbox Focus of yours, where fart on the pedal causes a lockup.
Never tried that to stop a car Jaime - a howto would be helpful :) ;)
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mikesomega - seems a common thing, I have to replace my discs every 2 years, not due to wear, but that same inside face problem. Genuine GM discs and pads, pattern have given me grief.
webby - spongyness is normally kanckered fluid rather than knackered calipers. Omega has a fair amount of pedal travel due to progressive brakes. Unlike that shitbox Focus of yours, where fart on the pedal causes a lockup.
Never tried that to stop a car Jaime - a howto would be helpful :) ;)
Howto:
Point ring toward brake pedal on small Fords, break wind, anchors lock.
Follow through, well, thats just a fail.
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;D all things are relative ;D
If you came from a ford to an omega you'd think the brakes on the omega where broken. But as you say, if an omega owner jumps on a ford and drives off he'll give himself whiplash at the first junction. ;D
I quite liked the brakes on my old mondeo. Effortless control... Once used to them. Shame about the rest if the car, build quality especially.
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Hahahaha cheers TB. Err, diplomatic as ever ;D :y
I'm going to do a bleed/flush/change following Tunnie's guide. Then go over, do everything again and see where we get.
Is it specifically the rear brakes that have to be bled/flushed or sgould i be looking to do all 4?
:y
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Actually, thinking about it, other vauxhall brakes aren't far off ford levels of servo assistance. Had similar headbutting steering wheel issues test driving that Vxr astra.
In fact, it's just that omega brakes are differant to most other models IMO.
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Hahahaha cheers TB. Err, diplomatic as ever ;D :y
I'm going to do a bleed/flush/change following Tunnie's guide. Then go over, do everything again and see where we get.
Is it specifically the rear brakes that have to be bled/flushed or sgould i be looking to do all 4?
:y
All 4
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Hahahaha cheers TB. Err, diplomatic as ever ;D :y
I'm going to do a bleed/flush/change following Tunnie's guide. Then go over, do everything again and see where we get.
Is it specifically the rear brakes that have to be bled/flushed or sgould i be looking to do all 4?
:y
All 4
:y
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mikesomega - seems a common thing, I have to replace my discs every 2 years, not due to wear, but that same inside face problem. Genuine GM discs and pads, pattern have given me grief.
webby - spongyness is normally kanckered fluid rather than knackered calipers. Omega has a fair amount of pedal travel due to progressive brakes. Unlike that shitbox Focus of yours, where fart on the pedal causes a lockup.
Never tried that to stop a car Jaime - a howto would be helpful :) ;)
Howto:
Point ring toward brake pedal on small Fords, break wind, anchors lock.
Follow through, well, thats just a fail.
No pics? ???
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mikesomega - seems a common thing, I have to replace my discs every 2 years, not due to wear, but that same inside face problem. Genuine GM discs and pads, pattern have given me grief.
webby - spongyness is normally kanckered fluid rather than knackered calipers. Omega has a fair amount of pedal travel due to progressive brakes. Unlike that shitbox Focus of yours, where fart on the pedal causes a lockup.
Never tried that to stop a car Jaime - a howto would be helpful :) ;)
Howto:
Point ring toward brake pedal on small Fords, break wind, anchors lock.
Follow through, well, thats just a fail.
No pics? ???
;D
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Some of today's purchases after the college interview....
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG074.jpg)
Is this brake fluid any good? I know GM stuff is recommended but I didn't manage to get to Vx today.
Also that grease is the only lithium stuff they have in stock even though it says online the Castrol lithium grease is available in my local Hellfrauds >:( but hey this stuff looks like it will do the job.
I have on order the piston pusher-inner tool (thanks Kevin W) and I got these vise grips from b&q to pinch brake hose. i know a lot of you said not to bother but for the sake of £10 I'd rather do it. I also got that elusive 9mm wrench ::)
As for pinching the hose a great idea would be to put two pieces of hose on the ends to protect the brake hose/master cylinder (hose on hose... don't read in to that :D) but would foam do the same job as I don't have any spare hose ?
:y :y
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I think these ones are for brake hose clamping but what you said about the hose on the clamps to protect will be ok i guess .
(http://www.jsjjt.com/usr/20/upload/product/2008062616534833.jpg)
I too was looking for some grease and only wilco's had a small tub ::)
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5L of brake fluid. :o
I think the biggest I've ever bought is a litre. That'll last you a lifetime if it keeps.. ;)
To that end, it would be worth splitting that up into a number of smaller bottles as once you've opened it and the air gets in it doesn't keep well. Find some smaller bottles (1 litre pop bottles, for example) with tight fitting lids, fill them up, screw the lid on tight and keep the 4 that you aren't going to use immediately in the garage.