Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Car Chat => Topic started by: Webby the Bear on 07 May 2012, 19:53:31
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Very productive day today stripping down ready to practise the cambelt replacement job.
Only a couple of things went wrong...
1.) I dropped a bolt to one of the Aux pullies down the drain in front of the garage ::) but no big deal I'm sure I'll get a replacement from Vx or somewhere and 2.) I cracked the timing belt cover. Anyway, we'll come to that in a minute.
This pic is awesome...... N.B, the cam pulleys have been marked by someone in tipex as has the casing.
Cams 2, 3 and 4 are roughly in correct position with the crank at TDC (also someone marked with tipex). But check out cam 1.............4 or 5 teeth behind where it should be :o :o :o :o
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/tb7.jpg)
Another pic showing the whole timing set up with Cam 1 sticking out like a sore thumb ;D
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/TB8.jpg)
This is the tensioner with the crank @ TDC..... again if I'm right in thinking looks wrong too (should be lined up with the marking???)
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/TB3.jpg)
Removed items....I put all screws with their respective components to aid reassembly. Note the pulley missing a bolt ::)
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/TB6.jpg)
The reason I broke the cam casing ::) I can't seem to remove the assembly holding the aux belt tensioner.
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/TBT.png)
Broken casing.... not too bad. The pics not great but you can just see three specs of light shining through.
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/TB5.jpg)
Finally, the Aux belt. Looks nackered to me and I assume it should be replaced if I was to do the job on my good car.
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/AUXBELT.jpg)
SO.
With all the above, how the hell could that cam timing get out by so much :-\ :-\ :-\ :-\ :-\
Anyway, awesome day. No real dramas. I would say that the crank pulley was a fekking beatch to get off. No movement from rubber hammer. Got evil with a pretty substantial pry bar behind it. Slowly pushed against and it popped off. Was worried for a while though ;D
Oh and one thing I just remembered..... Water pump has no play in it and no noise when pulley spun. Good!
The Aux belt tensioner does sound gritty when you spin it so I will be following Mark's excellent advice with re-packing it with grease to make it silent :y
Anyway, hope you enjoy the update as much as I enjoyed doing it :):):)
Cheers.
Car Bear
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Aux belt for the bin ;) Cambelt dont look too bad though , although reading on here its the tensioners that are also very important to replace .
Glad you had fun , cant you fish that bolt out the drain with a magnet or something (http://i938.photobucket.com/albums/ad227/kaytee_13/Icons/Emoticons/smiley_fishing.gif)
:y
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Well done Steve, stuff like this would make me want to run a mile! ;D
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Webby... I'm not convinced you've/previous person has that timed right ;) If it was 4 teeth out it would almost certainly have bent valves and not run ;)
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Webby... I'm not convinced you've/previous person has that timed right ;) If it was 4 teeth out it would almost certainly have bent valves and not run ;)
So what do you reckon Lazy? I have checked this correctly haven't I? :-\ Crank ''notch'' is at 6pm and that's how the cams look.
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did you try it at 6am tho :D ;D
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did you try it at 6am tho :D ;D
Hahahaha in the words of RobG....
FAAAR COUGH
Hahahahaha ;)
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couldnt resist it ;D ;D ;D
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;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
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Ps, just to let you know these are my findings from simply pulling off the belt cover and turning the crank.... i#ve not got the kit yet so i'm not going to have the belt off, re-time etc until i get that.... this was just how it was when i found it :y
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If that cam is out don't panic to much. My old one I had one cam a tooth out 2 cams 2 teeth out and the last cam was 4 teeth out!!!! All compressions were spot on and it ran spot on once I sorted it out.
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If that cam is out don't panic to much. My old one I had one cam a tooth out 2 cams 2 teeth out and the last cam was 4 teeth out!!!! All compressions were spot on and it ran spot on once I sorted it out.
Thanks Doz. Certainly explains why it sounds like a tractor.
I'll hopefully be re-timing this weekend. But still very intrigued as to how this would have happened. Is this smething mechanical gone wrong or has someone fiddled with this and messed it up? Not bothered cos it's going to be sorted... just out of interest
:)
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Your tensioner looks like it's saying the belts slack (might be saying it's tight but I'd bet slack). Mine was caused by a previous broken tensioner. The car had been repaired after the belt let go but they hadn't bothered to check for all the missing bits. A old ball bearing had managed to stow away and once it found it's way into the belt teeth it caused havoc
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Webby... I'm not convinced you've/previous person has that timed right ;) If it was 4 teeth out it would almost certainly have bent valves and not run ;)
Is it not if its advanced it causes problems ?. On my 4 pot, the valves got lunched because the belt advanced the timing by a few teeth. If the exhaust valves open a bit late, it shouldn't matter too much, power will be down but....
Ken
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'Shocking find on Ralf'
I thought you were going to tell us you'd found a few quids worth of change down the back seat Webby! ;D
As if!!!! :D ;)
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Oh, and a damn fine job you're doing there mate, keep at it :y
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Tensioner - undo the two torx bolts on the side of the assembly and remove and it should then fall out :y
Crank pulley - sounds like you got an easy one - used a stout lump of wood and a large lump hammer to shift mine! Having said that the Estate one just "fell" off like in the DVD!!
Wouldn't comment too much at this stage re timing - wait until you've got the right kit to check it ;)
Also wouldn't rely too much on a.n.other's tippex marks!
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Cheers for all the comments guys..... certainly a lot to ponder :y
As for the Aux Tensioner... hmmmm... I did purposely look for other bolts but just couldn't see any more. I'll have a good butchers at the weekend.
One thing before I hit the sack.....
In the DVD Mark adjusts 1/2 Bank by advancing or backing off the upper idler. How do you advance or back off (advance it looks like) just Cam 1 on it's own? :-\
Anyway, cheers for all the comments folks. I'm off to bed ready for work tomorrow..... God I hate my day job... but at least I got OOF for when the boss aint looking ;D :y
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The only way your going to sort that is by removing the belt. You won't have enough slack even the tension right off
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Exhaust retarded like that is a worry but, is the tippex on the correct marning on the sprocket?
If we think what happens with the valve when retarded on the exhaust its as follows:
Valve opens towards the bottom of the power stroke so its actualy opening late, piston is out the way so no issue.
Valve is closing late on the exhaust stroke, this is a bloody close call as its probably already closing as late as it can when setup correctly!
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Thanks Mark...
Yep, Tippex is marked on correctly on the case marking and on the sprocket nitches/lines. Tippex also is marked on the crank and this looks TDC as it's straight across the other side from the line marking.
I suppose the only thing to do is get it right and see how it runs... if it's still sounding crap then am I to assume bent valves and an engine replace? That wouldn't be too bad of an outcome as it would be great experience to swap an engine over!
Doz, obviously i have to properly check it with the locking kit but are we saying that if it turns out cam 1 is out by that much then the belt should be removed WITHOUT the cams being locked, manually advance cam 1, then start from scratch as if i'd just pulled the cover off?
:)
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if cams 3 & 4 are correct then you can lock those before you take the belt off, you will have to set 1 & 2 manualy then lock.
:y
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if cams 3 & 4 are correct then you can lock those before you take the belt off, you will have to set 1 & 2 manualy then lock.
:y
Cheers RB, that's what i was thinking :y :y :y
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Ive had cams that have been marked up with tippex incorrectly albeit on a 4 pot . Bloke who did mine reverted back to basics setting the timing by hand what ever that means ::) and manually turning the crank to make sure it didnt lock up :)
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As per what the cameblt video mentions.
Set the crank 60 Deg before TDC and remove the belt, then set the cams and lock them, finaly bring the crank to TDC.
The 60deg before (or after) TDC makes sure that no pistons are at the top of the bore and hence rotating cams will not push valves into pistons and risk damage.
Simples!
As for bent valves, you cna jsut pop the head and replace the valves, pretty sure I have a set of exhaust ones to
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That makes perfect sense!!!!
Thanks Mark.
Ps, real awesome video. I must have watched this over 20 times now ;D although the one thing i found worrying is blowing and sucking the air injection pipe..... mine's covered in, errrrm, SHIT!!! lol
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Webby. On the number one cam, look at the mark that's covered in tippex. On the cam wheel, under the rim, there will be a number under this tippexed mark. What is this number?
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Webby. On the number one cam, look at the mark that's covered in tippex. On the cam wheel, under the rim, there will be a number under this tippexed mark. What is this number?
Hi James,
I checked and they're definitely 1,2,3,4 in order as they should be..... or do you mean something else? :)
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Webby. On the number one cam, look at the mark that's covered in tippex. On the cam wheel, under the rim, there will be a number under this tippexed mark. What is this number?
Hi James,
I checked and they're definitely 1,2,3,4 in order as they should be..... or do you mean something else? :)
Forget the order / cams 2-3-4 for a minute. Focus on cam one. What number is under the tippex mark, on the wheel?
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Webby. On the number one cam, look at the mark that's covered in tippex. On the cam wheel, under the rim, there will be a number under this tippexed mark. What is this number?
Hi James,
I checked and they're definitely 1,2,3,4 in order as they should be..... or do you mean something else? :)
Forget the order / cams 2-3-4 for a minute. Focus on cam one. What number is under the tippex mark, on the wheel?
Cam 1 definitely has a big ''1'' on it. Is that the number you mean? I'd have to check it tonight to see if there are any other numbers. Sorry if I'm not understanding lol ;)
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Webby. On the number one cam, look at the mark that's covered in tippex. On the cam wheel, under the rim, there will be a number under this tippexed mark. What is this number?
Hi James,
I checked and they're definitely 1,2,3,4 in order as they should be..... or do you mean something else? :)
Forget the order / cams 2-3-4 for a minute. Focus on cam one. What number is under the tippex mark, on the wheel?
Cam 1 definitely has a big ''1'' on it. Is that the number you mean? I'd have to check it tonight to see if there are any other numbers. Sorry if I'm not understanding lol ;)
I just wanted to check that the tippexed mark actually corresponded to the correct number on the pulley...
In one of your pics, it looked like the mark to the right of the tippexed one may have had a one under it, but it's not quite close enough for me to be sure..
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Cheers James, so are we saying that the number should be directly under the mark? I have checked and double checked. the notches are all defo where the tippex is.... but i agree its not that viewable on the photos. :y
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Cheers James, so are we saying that the number should be directly under the mark? I have checked and double checked. the notches are all defo where the tippex is.... but i agree its not that viewable on the photos. :y
Can you just put my mind at rest, and take a photo of the number one cam wheel? :y
Oh, ref the cambelt cover being cracked, did you remove the entire aux belt assembly before removing cover?
That one caught me out on my first V6 cambelt, many years ago now :D :y
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Cheers James, so are we saying that the number should be directly under the mark? I have checked and double checked. the notches are all defo where the tippex is.... but i agree its not that viewable on the photos. :y
Can you just put my mind at rest, and take a photo of the number one cam wheel? :y
Oh, ref the cambelt cover being cracked, did you remove the entire aux belt assembly before removing cover?
That one caught me out on my first V6 cambelt, many years ago now :D :y
I jolly well will mate. I'll post up tonight :y Thanks mate.
Yeah, thats why it cracked. i have undone one bolt that wont come out all the way. and ive undone another bolt that goes straight in to the side of where the camshafts live.... but no luck. :-\
apparently there are other bolts there but i'm buggered if i can see them :D
i can't see how a cracked case would really affect things anyway????? bit of gaffer tape, jobs a good un :y
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i can't see how a cracked case would really affect things anyway?????
bit of gaffer tape, jobs a good un :y
The VX Technician Job is yours, when can you start? ;D :y
In reality, a small crack might not cause any harm, but it could if substantial enough result in the cover flapping inwards and rubbing on the rollers or the belt. You wouldn't want to put any tape on the inside of the cover, in the event it came unstuck through the vibration and heat etc, and ended up getting tangled up in the cambelt setup... :y
If it was a cambelt change for real, certainly on a customers car, the ideal thing would be to replace the cover at the first opportunity :y
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Hahahaha I was only messing. If it was my car or anyone elses I would replace it. And now I know not break it at all ::) :y
However, Ralf has a budget of around £1.26 so no new cover for him unfortunately ;D ;D ;D
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Hahahaha I was only messing. If it was my car or anyone elses I would replace it. And now I know not break it at all ::) :y
However, Ralf has a budget of around £1.26 so no new cover for him unfortunately ;D ;D ;D
Blue tack it is then :-X
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Hahahaha I was only messing. If it was my car or anyone elses I would replace it. And now I know not break it at all ::) :y
However, Ralf has a budget of around £1.26 so no new cover for him unfortunately ;D ;D ;D
Blue tack it is then :-X
Nar Steve, a pack of blu tack costs £3 something!!! ;D ;D
Talking of costs though, I have pretty much spent naff all so far. carb cleaner. those retaining springs. thats it! lol so if i can sort ralf for nowt it will be winner winner chisken dinner.
Although i'm secretly hoping it's so nackered i have to replace the engine....... how much can i get a v6 lump for???
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Just set that timing right. You won't need to replace the engine :y
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Just set that timing right. You won't need to replace the engine :y
I will do James. Well looking forward to it.
But I may do that later on for the experience ;)
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Hahahaha I was only messing. If it was my car or anyone elses I would replace it. And now I know not break it at all ::) :y
However, Ralf has a budget of around £1.26 so no new cover for him unfortunately ;D ;D ;D
Blue tack it is then :-X
Nar Steve, a pack of blu tack costs £3 something!!! ;D ;D
Talking of costs though, I have pretty much spent naff all so far. carb cleaner. those retaining springs. thats it! lol so if i can sort ralf for nowt it will be winner winner chisken dinner.
Although i'm secretly hoping it's so nackered i have to replace the engine....... how much can i get a v6 lump for???
£1.27 mate - out of your budget ::)
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Hahahaha I was only messing. If it was my car or anyone elses I would replace it. And now I know not break it at all ::) :y
However, Ralf has a budget of around £1.26 so no new cover for him unfortunately ;D ;D ;D
Blue tack it is then :-X
Nar Steve, a pack of blu tack costs £3 something!!! ;D ;D
Talking of costs though, I have pretty much spent naff all so far. carb cleaner. those retaining springs. thats it! lol so if i can sort ralf for nowt it will be winner winner chisken dinner.
Although i'm secretly hoping it's so nackered i have to replace the engine....... how much can i get a v6 lump for???
£1.27 mate - out of your budget ::)
Gutted lol
Did I see on here there was one from a breaker for £100? Does that sound about right?
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Hahahaha I was only messing. If it was my car or anyone elses I would replace it. And now I know not break it at all ::) :y
However, Ralf has a budget of around £1.26 so no new cover for him unfortunately ;D ;D ;D
Blue tack it is then :-X
Nar Steve, a pack of blu tack costs £3 something!!! ;D ;D
Talking of costs though, I have pretty much spent naff all so far. carb cleaner. those retaining springs. thats it! lol so if i can sort ralf for nowt it will be winner winner chisken dinner.
Although i'm secretly hoping it's so nackered i have to replace the engine....... how much can i get a v6 lump for???
£1.27 mate - out of your budget ::)
Gutted lol
Did I see on here there was one from a breaker for £100? Does that sound about right?
i will have a spare 3.0l v6 when i take it out, will be a tad more than 100 notes though. :D
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See my earlier post Webby, look down the back of the seat.....you never know mate :-X ;D
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See my earlier post Webby, look down the back of the seat.....you never know mate :-X ;D
there wont be any i checked before it went to webby ;D ;D
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Webby, IIRC, cam 1 should have 2 numbers on it, a 1 and a 2. These should be next to the 2 'groves' - one of which is tippexed.
What I'm hoping is that the tippexed one has a '2' next to it, and the untippexed has a '1' next to it. If so its only a tooth or 2 out :y
Hope that clarifies what Marks DTM and JamesV6 was trying to say :y
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Webby, IIRC, cam 1 should have 2 numbers on it, a 1 and a 2. These should be next to the 2 'groves' - one of which is tippexed.
What I'm hoping is that the tippexed one has a '2' next to it, and the untippexed has a '1' next to it. If so its only a tooth or 2 out :y
Hope that clarifies what Marks DTM and JamesV6 was trying to say :y
That's exactly what I was getting at.. Thanks TB :y
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Thanks chaps.
Ok, here is cam 1 with crank at TDC...
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/TB21.jpg)
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oh boy, 4 out. :o
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Oh break me, yes :o
Is it down on power (one for bigyin54 I guess), that doesn't look good. Really doesn't. What mongrel did that?
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Just so we get this absolutely clear as I know I can be retarded...... when I say the crank is at TDC..... that's when the line/notch on the crank is at 6 o'clock, right?
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depends on am or pm lmao ;D ;D ;D ;D
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depends on am or pm lmao ;D ;D ;D ;D
;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D i knew youd say that
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Just so we get this absolutely clear as I know I can be retarded...... when I say the crank is at TDC..... that's when the line/notch on the crank is at 6 o'clock, right?
yes
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Just so we get this absolutely clear as I know I can be retarded...... when I say the crank is at TDC..... that's when the line/notch on the crank is at 6 o'clock, right?
yes
Then we got problems!!! lol
Is it possible that it could be a tensioner failure that's caused this?
I double checked the other sprockets. they are all roughly spot on using the marks on the casing.
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Webby you know you wanted to a head gasket,looks like your doing a complete top end rebuild ;)
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Webby you know you wanted to a head gasket,looks like your doing a complete top end rebuild ;)
Is that cos you're predicting the valves will all be bent?
Then fekking bring it on. Most fun i've had since i bought my first adult magazine!!!!!!
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your so easily pleased ;D ;D ;D
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Webby you know you wanted to a head gasket,looks like your doing a complete top end rebuild ;)
Is that cos you're predicting the valves will all be bent?
Then fekking bring it on. Most fun i've had since i bought my first adult magazine!!!!!!
Spat my coffee at that one ;D
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Was it running OK before you took the cambelt cover off?
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Is it possible that it could be a tensioner failure that's caused this?
Tensioner looks good though...
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get the bugger timed up & see what happens, you may, & only may have got away with it. ::)
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You've got to give it a go. Honestly if you'd heard how bad my old estate sounded you'd of been scraping it but instead it's still going strong being driven by Derek of GM6 fame. I know it's hard to believe but I've seen it with my own eyes. Realign and go for broke!!! she'll be fine
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Cheers for all the comments lads. Hopefull, timed up it'll be ok. But hey, if I have to rebuild then that's loads of experience I'm getting and Ralf, ironically, will be doing his job of keeping me in work and getting experience.... s'what i bought him for :y
Was it running OK before you took the cambelt cover off?
No mate..... it was running but sounded bleedin' awful. If i'd have bent valves would it be running at all :-\
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Cheers for all the comments lads. Hopefull, timed up it'll be ok. But hey, if I have to rebuild then that's loads of experience I'm getting and Ralf, ironically, will be doing his job of keeping me in work and getting experience.... s'what i bought him for :y
Was it running OK before you took the cambelt cover off?
No mate..... it was running but sounded bleedin' awful. If i'd have bent valves would it be running at all :-\
would run yes, just. seem to remember daz bringing one back from down south on 3/4 pots.
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Thanks RB. Certainly didn't sound good. ill get it timed up correctly and see what the score is after that :y if it sorts itself, great, if not even better as i really get to strip the bugger down :y
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Thanks RB. Certainly didn't sound good. ill get it timed up correctly and see what the score is after that :y if it sorts itself, great, if not even better as i really get to strip the bugger down :y
That's dedication, if I'd found what you had I'd be shitting myself at the minute ;D ;D.
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Thanks RB. Certainly didn't sound good. ill get it timed up correctly and see what the score is after that :y if it sorts itself, great, if not even better as i really get to strip the bugger down :y
That's dedication, if I'd found what you had I'd be shitting myself at the minute ;D ;D.
;D ;D ;D Remember this is the ''practise car'' though ;)
Even if it never runs again i still get to practise jobs and learn ready for september ;)
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Thanks RB. Certainly didn't sound good. ill get it timed up correctly and see what the score is after that :y if it sorts itself, great, if not even better as i really get to strip the bugger down :y
That's dedication, if I'd found what you had I'd be shitting myself at the minute ;D ;D.
;D
Im hoping you get it running all good again after all the hard work you put in on it , if not ill be round for some parts ;D ;) ;)
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Thanks RB. Certainly didn't sound good. ill get it timed up correctly and see what the score is after that :y if it sorts itself, great, if not even better as i really get to strip the bugger down :y
That's dedication, if I'd found what you had I'd be shitting myself at the minute ;D ;D.
;D
Im hoping you get it running all good again after all the hard work you put in on it , if not ill be round for some parts ;D ;) ;)
Defo mate, and if youre ever bored and want something to do feel free to pop over and have a butchers ;)
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Thanks RB. Certainly didn't sound good. ill get it timed up correctly and see what the score is after that :y if it sorts itself, great, if not even better as i really get to strip the bugger down :y
That's dedication, if I'd found what you had I'd be shitting myself at the minute ;D ;D.
;D
Im hoping you get it running all good again after all the hard work you put in on it , if not ill be round for some parts ;D ;) ;)
Defo mate, and if youre ever bored and want something to do feel free to pop over and have a butchers ;)
Cheers , would like to see how its going sometime and we can throw spanners at it together ;D ;)
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ill try and patch up the mark where i cracked him on the bumper with a spanner in frustration at that brake disc bolt :o ;D ;D ;D
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ill try and patch up the mark where i cracked him on the bumper with a spanner in frustration at that brake disc bolt :o ;D ;D ;D
No worries my car looks worse than ralf in the daylight , 15 yrs of road salt does wonders to the bodywork :-[
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if i get him fixed ill give him a good clean.... he may just come up nicely. although i havent used any form of fender covers so the poor git does have greasy hand prints on him hahahahaha
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Shit forgot to mention.... i need to get a 30mm spanner for the idlers.... is this a normal wrench/spanner?
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Shit forgot to mention.... i need to get a 30mm spanner for the idlers.... is this a normal wrench/spanner?
Offset ring spanner.
I am pretty sure I have a spare....
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James, is that just a spanner with that ring at the other end? ill just go halfords mate ;)
cheers ;)
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James, is that just a spanner with that ring at the other end? ill just go halfords mate ;)
cheers ;)
It is. but make sure it's OFFSET and not flat. Almost certain Hellfrauds ones are not offset.. :y
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James, is that just a spanner with that ring at the other end? ill just go halfords mate ;)
cheers ;)
It is. but make sure it's OFFSET and not flat. Almost certain Hellfrauds ones are not offset.. :y
Sorry to be an absolute tool (no pun) but what does that mean. lol :'(
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if i get him fixed ill give him a good clean.... he may just come up nicely. although i havent used any form of fender covers so the poor git does have greasy hand prints on him hahahahaha
You've been watching too many American videos on YouTube - we call those 'wings' in this country, not 'fenders' ;) :P ;D
Offset ring spanner looks like this: http://www.hansa-germany.com/images/4835-ring.jpg
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hahahaha i love america! ;)
aaaahhhaaaa i see. thanks chaps.
james if you have a spare could i buy it off you young sir? :):):)
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hahahaha i love america! ;)
aaaahhhaaaa i see. thanks chaps.
james if you have a spare could i buy it off you young sir? :):):)
If I've got one you can have it for cost, I'm just a bit concerned postage might not be worthwhile on something that heavy...
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ok mate, if you have one let me know and we'll see what the score is. just bust me a pm innit ;)
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When I did my cambelt I got one of these of Fleabay. :y
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/30MM-32MM-DEEP-OFFSET-BI-HEX-SWAN-NECK-RING-SPANNER-/290556511662?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item43a68485ae (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/30MM-32MM-DEEP-OFFSET-BI-HEX-SWAN-NECK-RING-SPANNER-/290556511662?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item43a68485ae)
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nice one mate..... ill order this ;) thanks
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I'm loving this thread. Webby, you should be on stage my man :)
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I'm loving this thread. Webby, you should be on stage my man :)
Thanks JC,
I'm on stage every night.... ask the wife about my performaces... thats me asleep in the background. and shes happy! hahahahahaa
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/profimedia-0006712769.jpg)
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Shit forgot to mention.... i need to get a 30mm spanner for the idlers.... is this a normal wrench/spanner?
Got one of those as well
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TB, very kind of you mate. PM sent :y
Let's get this dodgy car undodgy! :y
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We needs updates not idle chat! ;D
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We needs updates not idle chat! ;D
;D ;D
All in good time mate.... if I fixed it straight away then everyone would know I was a genius and it would get boring ::) ::) ;D ;D
On a serious note i'm popping over to tb's to pick up the locking kit tonight (thanks mate) and depeding on when i get back i may sort the timing tonight. as they say... watch this space ;)
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I was tempted to say I'd pop in after sorting Claires cambelt and give you a hand getting the timing right.
But I think you want the fun of doing it solo :y
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i think Webby likes a bit of solo fun on ralph :D :D :D :y
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I was tempted to say I'd pop in after sorting Claires cambelt and give you a hand getting the timing right.
But I think you want the fun of doing it solo :y
cheers james. yep, youre quite right. ill figure it out ;)
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i think Webby likes a bit of solo fun on ralph :D :D :D :y
;D ;D ;D
Seriously though, yes, get yer finger out man! My money says that the weird noise it ran with previously will disappear when timed correctly...
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i think Webby likes a bit of solo fun on ralph :D :D :D :y
;D ;D ;D
Seriously though, yes, get yer finger out man! My money says that the weird noise it ran with previously will disappear when timed correctly...
Haha ;)
That's exactly what I'm hoping for. On the other hand as soon as it's back together it's all coming apart again so I can do the HG. Also, that will be good as I'll be able to look at the valves and also the cyclinders to see if the timing has caused any damage.
Can't wait i tell you.
only bad thing is being stuck at work when all i wanna do is work on the motor :(
you ever seen that advert where the guy goes to do stuff and then ''poof'' he's magiced back to his desk. i feel the same. i hate desk work. done it for 10 years and i now want to do something rewarding.... CARS! ;)
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I know that feeling - been doing an IT job behind a desk for 17 years.. often wish I'd actually gone to Uni and done something else, something that feels worthwhile.
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I know that feeling - been doing an IT job behind a desk for 17 years.. often wish I'd actually gone to Uni and done something else, something that feels worthwhile.
Exactly. i'm very fortunate in that i dont have a house and i luckily dont have aby financial commitments. im 30 this year and if i dont do this now ill be stuck in this large building society forever.
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You will need sun hat if your doing ralf saturday as its supposed to be really nice :P, look forward to your findings ;)
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You will need sun hat if your doing ralf saturday as its supposed to be really nice :P, look forward to your findings ;)
Really?? oh thank fek for that..... i had to dodge in and out the house last week cos of the freakin rain stoppin and startin >:(
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Lets all give webby a hand with ralfs head ....
(http://i407.photobucket.com/albums/pp159/jufconnie/Smileys%20Hyves/smiley_runforest-1.gif)
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theres nothing wrong with my head mate ha ha ;D ;D
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theres nothing wrong with my head mate ha ha ;D ;D
Well we hope not ;D
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Right then chimps, I mean chaps.... thanks very much TB for lending me the locking kit.
I didn't have time to sort it tonight :'( but I did get time to confirm for sure that the timing is, errrrrm, fekked! :)
Crank @ TDC..........
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/cranktool.jpg)
Cams 1 & 2 ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/camsoff.jpg)
Cams 3 & 4, almost spot on....sorry for bad photo
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/cams3and4good.jpg)
I will hopefully get some time after hell work tomorrow to get this all sorted and probably reassembly Saturday.
Thanks again for the kit and the wrench TB. Very much obliged! :y
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mini meet at webbys on saturday then ;D ;D
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Is that 4 teeth out then :-\
http://s1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/?action=view¤t=MOV003.mp4
Guess that would make it sound like that :-\
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mini meet at webbys on saturday then ;D ;D
;D ;D ;D ;D seriously, got plenty of beer.... come down if you're free. i have all but lost the wife through my endeavours so i need all the company i can get. but hey, at least ralf may work... thats the main thing ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
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ive got sod all to do so would be good to meet up,if steve wants to get a lift with me more than welcome to,give me a chance to show him how mine drives ::)
dam does that i have to clean mine now :o
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ive got sod all to do so would be good to meet up,if steve wants to get a lift with me more than welcome to,give me a chance to show him how mine drives ::)
dam does that i have to clean mine now :o
Depends what time if its sat , have to be back by 1pm but more than happy to hitch a ride in the MV ...i like slower cars :P :P :P :y
Dont clean it its going to be Chucking it down sunny ;D
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ill give you my address tomorrow if ya like when i find out what time im gonna be there.... gonna break to watch the saints in the semis of the AP so will let you know :)
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ill give you my address tomorrow if ya like when i find out what time im gonna be there.... gonna break to watch the saints in the semis of the AP so will let you know :)
:y
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Whats "crank at TDC"?
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Whats "crank at TDC"?
crank pulley at ''top dead centre''..... crank turns twice for every 1 turn of the camshaft.... on the second turn of the crank when you bring the crank to TDC the notches on the cams are supposed to line up with the marks on the plastic casing........ as you can see from pic 1 cam number 1 well out :y
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Sense a new 'Omega Mechanic' do I, in the making. Watch out lads
Cheers
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Sense a new 'Omega Mechanic' do I, in the making. Watch out lads
Cheers
hahaha ;) i'm only repeating what i've learnt from these guys.
i defo reccomend the cambelt dvd. for £3 the amiunt you learn is great..... i'm very sad and have watched it over 20 times quite a lot :-[ ;D ;D ;D
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I think you should get away with that as it's the exhaust cam that's advanced :-\ :-\
Certainly worth re-timing with the existing belt. Although I'd be interested in why it jumped because I'm sure it couldn't have been done like that from the start :-\
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I think you should get away with that as it's the exhaust cam that's advanced :-\ :-\
Cheers Lazy,
that seems to be the consensus.....ill tell you sunday ;D
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I think you should get away with that as it's the exhaust cam that's advanced :-\ :-\
Certainly worth re-timing with the existing belt. Although I'd be interested in why it jumped because I'm sure it couldn't have been done like that from the start :-\
i think so too, i had a 3.0l the same, set it up & all was ok. :y
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I think you should get away with that as it's the exhaust cam that's advanced :-\ :-\
Cheers Lazy,
that seems to be the consensus.....ill tell you sunday ;D
BOOM
sorry web, lmfao. :D
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I think you should get away with that as it's the exhaust cam that's advanced :-\ :-\
Cheers Lazy,
that seems to be the consensus.....ill tell you sunday ;D
BOOM
sorry web, lmfao. :D
hahahahaha!!!! believe me ive thought about it.
and its a very good point.... if this thing does throw a rod (i believe thats the term for when a valve shoots out the engine :o) is it likely the carnage will be contained in the engine...... dont facy turning up to A&E with no head..... or even worse a bad case of erection loss :y
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im sure it will be fine.
:y
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I think you should get away with that as it's the exhaust cam that's advanced :-\ :-\
Cheers Lazy,
that seems to be the consensus.....ill tell you sunday ;D
BOOM
sorry web, lmfao. :D
hahahahaha!!!! believe me ive thought about it.
and its a very good point.... if this thing does throw a rod (i believe thats the term for when a valve shoots out the engine :o) is it likely the carnage will be contained in the engine...... dont facy turning up to A&E with no head..... or even worse a bad case of erection loss :y
Thats "dropping a valve" which is serious,"throwing a rod" is when a con rod decides not to be attached to a piston anymore and decides to to take a look outside the block leaving a rather great hole in the side of the engine(this is very serious) ;D ;D
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"Throwing a rod" is when a con rod (the bit between the piston and crank) makes a bid for freedom from the confines of the piston & crank, usually through the side of the engine. Tends to be fatal for the engine on account of the gaping hole and shrapnel ;)
Bending a valve won't eject bits of engine from the engine.. just.. bend things internally.
Damn, beaten to it ;)
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"Throwing a rod" is when a con rod (the bit between the piston and crank) makes a bid for freedom from the confines of the piston & crank, usually through the side of the engine. Tends to be fatal for the engine on account of the gaping hole and shrapnel ;)
Bending a valve won't eject bits of engine from the engine.. just.. bend things internally.
Damn, beaten to it ;)
I'm surprised as I'm shite at typing ;D
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im sure it will be fine. :y
watch this space
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/iubgib.png)
;D ;D ;D
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"Throwing a rod" is when a con rod (the bit between the piston and crank) makes a bid for freedom from the confines of the piston & crank, usually through the side of the engine. Tends to be fatal for the engine on account of the gaping hole and shrapnel ;)
Bending a valve won't eject bits of engine from the engine.. just.. bend things internally.
Damn, beaten to it ;)
happened to me with a 3.0l ford, certainly killed the engine. :D
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connecting rod, right?
ok that makes more sense :y
why would that happen :-\
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I'm surprised as I'm shite at typing ;D
;D Well I am half watching a film.. Ooh Sophia Myles. Mmm.
Webby - con rods break due to stresses, constant stretching & shrinking back (every time the piston hits the top of it's stroke, there's a pulling strain of many tons IIRC). Usually tuned engines beyond the design envelope of the rod will bend or break a rod either from sheer power or from detonation, that is where the fuel vapour ignites early and the flame front hits the piston crown as the piston is rising in it's bore, instead of as it's falling. You get an enormous strain on the rods and eventually, pop!
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I'm surprised as I'm shite at typing ;D
;D Well I am half watching a film.. Ooh Sophia Myles. Mmm.
Webby - con rods break due to stresses, constant stretching & shrinking back (every time the piston hits the top of it's stroke, there's a pulling strain of many tons IIRC). Usually tuned engines beyond the design envelope of the rod will bend or break a rod either from sheer power or from detonation, that is where the fuel vapour ignites early and the flame front hits the piston crown as the piston is rising in it's bore, instead of as it's falling. You get an enormous strain on the rods and eventually, pop!
makes sense that all necesary components are upgraded..... my mate has an orange scooby. spent £15k doing it up apparently (all engine work). he had to take it back as all the engine mods caused stress on some part (cant remember what) that was original.
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mine exploded due to big end shell failure. at 80mph it did make a mess oh & a bloody racket. lol
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mine exploded due to big end shell failure. at 80mph it did make a mess oh & a bloody racket. lol
Never ends well :-X,did something similar with a Morris 1100 many years ago,took out the gearbox as well when it went :'(
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I think you should get away with that as it's the exhaust cam that's advanced :-\ :-\
Cheers Lazy,
that seems to be the consensus.....ill tell you sunday ;D
BOOM
sorry web, lmfao. :D
hahahahaha!!!! believe me ive thought about it.
and its a very good point.... if this thing does throw a rod (i believe thats the term for when a valve shoots out the engine :o) is it likely the carnage will be contained in the engine...... dont facy turning up to A&E with no head..... or even worse a bad case of erection loss :y
;D
Itl be fine , for all of us learning mechanics we wait for your next update .. your learning a lot by what your doing and a bonus is so are we with your updates (http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t151/204950/popcorn.gif)
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Cheers Steve! ;)
Right, thought i'd be able to afford a torque wrench (the expensive one from hellfrauds) but i can't.
i refuse to be stopped this saturday..... if i do everything up without torquing will that be ok just to start it and see if it's ok?
bearing in mind i then plan to strip it all back down for the HG job :)
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As long as you're sensible (I.e. don't leave anything finger tight and don't monkey off the bolts and snap them off) you'll be fine, IMHO ;)
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As long as you're sensible (I.e. don't leave anything finger tight and don't monkey off the bolts and snap them off) you'll be fine, IMHO ;)
Exactly what i was thinking. Cheers aaron :y :y :y :y
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One thing I haven't done yet is drain the coolant. gotta do this as i am going to take the water pump off and inspect.
what would happen if the coolant tap wasn't opened to drain the water first then took the water pump off?.... other than more water everywhere ::) any other problems you could cause by doing that :-\
:y :y :y
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You'll have a torrent of water out of the water pump hole. ;D
But.. no damage done, and you'll have a torrent of water out of the water pump hole anyway, because most of the water in the block won't drain out through the radiator.
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You'll have a torrent of water out of the water pump hole. ;D
But.. no damage done, and you'll have a torrent of water out of the water pump hole anyway, because most of the water in the block won't drain out through the radiator.
That's what i thought. cheers kev.
well i'm hopefully going to do some tonight. really want to get it so tomorrow is all about the reassembly.
i can really see myself doing this for a living. what a rewarding job!
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You'll have a torrent of water out of the water pump hole. ;D
But.. no damage done, and you'll have a torrent of water out of the water pump hole anyway, because most of the water in the block won't drain out through the radiator.
That's what i thought. cheers kev.
well i'm hopefully going to do some tonight. really want to get it so tomorrow is all about the reassembly.
i can really see myself doing this for a living. what a rewarding job!
Wait until you're driving 200 miles home from a customer after spending 8 hours lying on your back getting covered in $hit and scraping your knuckles and stinking of oil every day for a while.. ;D
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You'll have a torrent of water out of the water pump hole. ;D
But.. no damage done, and you'll have a torrent of water out of the water pump hole anyway, because most of the water in the block won't drain out through the radiator.
That's what i thought. cheers kev.
well i'm hopefully going to do some tonight. really want to get it so tomorrow is all about the reassembly.
i can really see myself doing this for a living. what a rewarding job!
Wait until you're driving 200 miles home from a customer after spending 8 hours lying on your back getting covered in $hit and scraping your knuckles and stinking of oil every day for a while.. ;D
Apart from the driving far bit that sounds awesome ;D
on a serious note james, what would you say are the highs and lows of being a professional spanner twirler?
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You'll have a torrent of water out of the water pump hole. ;D
But.. no damage done, and you'll have a torrent of water out of the water pump hole anyway, because most of the water in the block won't drain out through the radiator.
That's what i thought. cheers kev.
well i'm hopefully going to do some tonight. really want to get it so tomorrow is all about the reassembly.
i can really see myself doing this for a living. what a rewarding job!
Wait until you're driving 200 miles home from a customer after spending 8 hours lying on your back getting covered in $hit and scraping your knuckles and stinking of oil every day for a while.. ;D
Apart from the driving far bit that sounds awesome ;D
on a serious note james, what would you say are the highs and lows of being a professional spanner twirler?
Well for starters, I am not a professional mechanic by any stretch. I'm an enthusiast, who has become proficient in a number of jobs, and hence offer it as a service in my spare time...
For me, the highs:
- Sense of achievement when you fix something or work out a problem
- Pride in my work - I feel really great knowing I've done something properly and not cut corners
- Reputation - I enjoy the reputation I generally get as a result of the above
- If solo - all the benefits of being your own boss
- getting to meet great people, making new friends, being appreciated
- the money is reasonable
The lows
- some very early starts, very long days
- if at a customer site, and only outdoor facilities, it can be miserable in the winter
- your own car constantly taking a hammering. My MV6 always has a bootload of tools and is thrashed around the UK. Remember you must keep your own car well serviced, even if you can't be bothered - as without it you're stuffed
- Unforseen problems. For example, if something breaks and you don't have a replacement
- IF working away, facilities, EG, jobs under car tricky if only a gravel surface is available
- Although very few and far between, there will always be the odd unreasonable customer
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I think that's summed it up really well. especially the working on someone's drive in the cold :'(
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i was a mechanic for......dare i say it...citroen ::)
i packed that up in 92 to go a different direction, brewery electrical contract work, only over the past couple of years have i been back on cars, only for me though tbh, after 20 years out of it, boy its hard work now, mind i think age has something to do with that. :D i dont miss it. :)
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"Throwing a rod" is when a con rod (the bit between the piston and crank) makes a bid for freedom from the confines of the piston & crank, usually through the side of the engine. Tends to be fatal for the engine on account of the gaping hole and shrapnel ;)
Bending a valve won't eject bits of engine from the engine.. just.. bend things internally.
Damn, beaten to it ;)
Reminds me of an old Farmer, looking for somebody to drive his tractor. A young man turned up for an interview with all of the necessary qualifications. At the end of the interview , the farmer said, sorry you haven't got the job.
The young man said, why not?
The old farmer said, well it is like this: I have a very old tractor with a clapped out engine and a very beautiful young wife.
And I don't want a rod thrown in either of them. ;D
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;D ;D ^^ very good. :y
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;D ;D ^^ very good. :y
+1 ;D ;D :y
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Right then chaps, everything is going great. sorted the cam timing with belt off and locked the cams, done water pump, removed backing plate etc etc. and it's all back together. however. little bit of a problem....just about to replace the cambelt and looked and it has no markings. there is the lettering still there with ''DO NOT CRIMP'' and the other lettering further along with a bar code and ''G'' at the end of it but no double marking for the crank and no single markings for the cams.
now i know the bar code with ''G'' should go over cams 1/2 but what do i do about the no markings?
Am i done for with regards to putting the old belt back or are there some trucks of the trade?
cheers dudes
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sorry what i should have added was there are two seperate markings but they look like they were drawn on in tippex or something ::)
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The markings aren't essential, just there to aid fitting (because you can see if you have it in the right places) ;)
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Dont go turning that ingnition key till you have turned the crank manually a few times with the plugs out to avoid bending ralfs valves :)
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So as long as it's going in the right direction (with the ''DO NOT CRIMP'' not upside down) then it doesn't matter where i put it on? :-\
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Have you done the cambelt yet or what? ;D
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Have you done the cambelt yet or what? ;D
Just what i was thinking maybe he went pub instead (http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t292/smiliegirl2007/beerbong.gif)
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Right then chaps, everything is going great. sorted the cam timing with belt off and locked the cams, done water pump, removed backing plate etc etc. and it's all back together. however. little bit of a problem....just about to replace the cambelt and looked and it has no markings. there is the lettering still there with ''DO NOT CRIMP'' and the other lettering further along with a bar code and ''G'' at the end of it but no double marking for the crank and no single markings for the cams.
now i know the bar code with ''G'' should go over cams 1/2 but what do i do about the no markings?
Am i done for with regards to putting the old belt back or are there some trucks of the trade?
cheers dudes
Hi Webby,
Right -
Lazydocker is absolutely right, in as much as the marks on the belt are only there to aid fitment. They are not essential.
One point you need to note is this. When a used cambelt is removed, with the intention to refit - it should always, no exceptions, be refitted in the same direction of travel as it came off.
So, for example, if the writing on the belt was facing towards you when you removed it - it goes in in the same rotation when it goes back on.
What you need to do is this:
1) Cams locked in correct place
2) Crank at TDC.
3) Ensure the backplate is fitted with the tensioner and upper idler, and ensure these are loose and free to adjust (NB, the lower right idler should not yet be fitted). Back off the tensioner as far as it will go.
4) Now start routing the cambelt. Start at the crank, then route over the tensioner. NOTE - do not pull this stretch of the belt tottally tight. There should be quite a bit of slack here at this stage (which will be taken up by the tensioner). When you have routed it over the crank, and up to the tensioner, insert the wedge to hold the belt in place against the crank sprocket.
5) route the belt around cams 1 and 2, and then the top idler. When you've done this, before you offer the belt to the next bank of cams, twist the idler with your finger to ensure there is no slack. Now route the belt over cams 3 and 4. Note there should be no slack on the belt run between the two cams on each bank. Then route the belt on it's final run, back towards the other side of the crank pulley.
6) Holding the belt in position with one hand, reach for your third arm (it gets easier over time) and pop the lower right idler into place, twist the aduster round on this idler until the bolt lines up with the hole in the block. NB ensure the washer is correctly located on the rear of the idler, don't let it drop off and forget it else you're in trouble...
7) Set lower right idler arrow to approx 1 o clock, nipping up the bolt.
8) Turn upper idler anticlockwise until it takes up the tension, it'll probably end up in the 9 or 10 o clock position depending on engine year.
9) using alan key, hold tensioner so the mark on it is in correct place, and then nip up with open ended 13mm spanner to hold in place.
10) Quick visual check to make sure everything is where it should be.
11) Rotate engine until all of the marks are about to line up again. When it's just before TDC, apply water pump locking tool, and lock at TDC.
12) Check banks 3 and 4 with measuring tool. Adjust lower right idler if needed (turning adjuster anti clockwise will advance the cams)
13) When happy 3 and 4 are set correctly, Do the same with cams 1 and 2, using the top idler.
14) Back off the tension, and re-set to correct position.
15) Torque all the bolts to spec, ensuring you don't move any idlers while doing so (hold in place with 30mm spanner)
16) Turn the engine over again by hand, re-lock in place, and ensure everything still lines up. If it does - happy days, on with the cover.
If ever you decide it's going completely pete tong, a) don't force anything that won't go, and b) if you need to, start again with the crank at 60deg before TDC (4 o clock position) - set the cams correctly, crank to TDC, and try again.
Hope this helps. It may not be the book way, but it's my way. Some prefer to route it over the lower right idler first, which is fine - but I don't think that's the way encouraged on the DVD - so I'd stick with the DVD method for now.
Any problems post up :y
If this is your first V6 cambelt, I would be inclined to turn the engine over several times by hand when you think it's correctly set up, check, double and triple check. There's no harm in that. If you get really stuck, then don't let it get to you - just ask again :)
Good luck :)
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James. What a detailed reply. That's really kind of you :y :y :y :y
That all makes absolutely perfect sense... what i've been trying to do is get the belt tight from crank to cams 1 & 2 by hand :-[... and even though somehow ive managed to do that by hand i cant do 3 & 4....... but that explains why!!!
I worked on it until 8pm last night but i didnt panic. i simply downed tools, relaxed and back today for more punishment.
ill update hopefully with the belt all done
thanks again mate thats really good of you
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Webby p.m sent :y
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Webby p.m sent :y
mate, real sorry i didnt check pm's... im done now for the day.
however, i still got problems. 3/4 bank is spot on. 1/2 bank needs advancing slightly... however when i turn the upper idler anti clockwise to advance it the oppsing 30mm star shaped thing just comes loose. what on earth have i done wrong?
Done exactly as you said james.....
1.) lower idler at approx 1oclock
2.) upper idler taking up the tension at around 9/10 0clock
3.) tensioner bang on the line
please help someone :(
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Errm its getting too technical now ::) your using mechanical terms ;D The master will be along soon ...
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however when i turn the upper idler anti clockwise to advance it the oppsing 30mm star shaped thing just comes loose. what on earth have i done wrong?
Hold idler in correct position with 30mm spanner, then nip up the torx bolt ;)
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however when i turn the upper idler anti clockwise to advance it the oppsing 30mm star shaped thing just comes loose. what on earth have i done wrong?
Hold idler in correct position with 30mm spanner, then nip up the torx bolt ;)
Thanks for that TB.
what i mean is though that i'm actually trying to move the idler to advance bank 1 and 2 to get them in position. but when i move it (anti clockwise) bank 1/2 stay where they are and dont move and the idler loses tension.
if that makes sense.
sorry for my crap explanation.
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One tooth too much slack on the belt, between the two banks of cams, is what it sounds like...
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One tooth too much slack on the belt, between the two banks of cams, is what it sounds like...
Ok james thanks very much for that. if thats the case then thinking about it as cams 3/4 worked when i advanced the lower idler i'm thinking the following would work:
1. relock the belt on the crank with that wedge type tool
2. undo 13mm tensioner bolt so that tensioner slackens between cams 1/2 and the crank.
3. remove upper idler
4. shift belt one tooth left over cams 1/2
5. replace idler
6. reset tensioner that should take up all the slack from the extra tooth
7. turn the engine and shoadvance cams 1/2 as necesary
only thing with that is what position do i set the upper idler when i replace?
if anybody can just give me the thumbs up then ill be on it like a tramp on chips tomorrow
:)
thanks all,
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RALF IS OFFICIALLY TIMED UP CORRECTLY!!!!!
Went home at lunch with a list of instructions i'd written to myself lol
As James said I had too much slack between the two banks. it was exactly one tooth out.
so i put the wedge tool back in, loosely held vice grips on cam 3 and belt so they stayed in position, loosened tensioner, removed upper idler, shifted belt over one tooth, replaced idler, loosely did up tensioner, set lower idler to 1oclock, set upper idler so that it took tension (around 8/9 oclock, tensioner on the mark, rotated the engine. advanced cans 3/4 then did the same with 1/2. reset tensioner, turned engine again and hey presto, ralf's timing is sorted.
What have i learned from this.....
GET A BELT WITH MARKERS ON. Would have been so much easier.
i'll post up full pics pics when i get home. reassembly starts at the weekend.
TB, ignore my PM. I'll be up tonight or tomorrow with your kit :)
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Very well done mate :y
Just to confirm -
with crank locked at TDC, and with the gauge held between the pulleys, the marks are dead in the centre - and the tensioner set right? All torqued up, re-rotated, and re-checked?
If so, happy days :y :y
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Very well done mate :y
Just to confirm -
with crank locked at TDC, and with the gauge held between the pulleys, the marks are dead in the centre - and the tensioner set right? All torqued up, re-rotated, and re-checked?If so, happy days :y :y
Oh yes ;)
Only thing i didnt do was torque them as i dont have a torque wrench with the low numbers. however, i did them up tight but not so much id strip them ;)
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ps, thanks for all your help james. very much appreciated!!! ;)
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Very well done mate :y
Just to confirm -
with crank locked at TDC, and with the gauge held between the pulleys, the marks are dead in the centre - and the tensioner set right? All torqued up, re-rotated, and re-checked?If so, happy days :y :y
Oh yes ;)
Only thing i didnt do was torque them as i dont have a torque wrench with the low numbers. however, i did them up tight but not so much id strip them ;)
Does your T wrench not do 40nm even?
On a play-around / learning car like Ralf, doing them to a sensible torque by hand will be fine. Make sure you get a torquewrench if you do the job for real, though :y
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Very well done mate :y
Just to confirm -
with crank locked at TDC, and with the gauge held between the pulleys, the marks are dead in the centre - and the tensioner set right? All torqued up, re-rotated, and re-checked?If so, happy days :y :y
Oh yes ;)
Only thing i didnt do was torque them as i dont have a torque wrench with the low numbers. however, i did them up tight but not so much id strip them ;)
Does your T wrench not do 40nm even?
On a play-around / learning car like Ralf, doing them to a sensible torque by hand will be fine. Make sure you get a torquewrench if you do the job for real, though :y
oh defo will mate, thanks :y :y :y
yeah my ''big bertha'' torque wrench goes down to 40nm.... however the bugger has a bigger drive than the one on the E12 socket ::) ;D
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.....and i dont have the correct adapter ::) ;D
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what size adaptor do you need?
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what size adaptor do you need?
hi martin,
not sure mate. but to be honest it doesnt really matter anyway cos i haven't got a torque wrench that will do 25nm ::)
next on my list to buy though. going to get a good 'un..... the smaller version of my big bertha ;D
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Well done Steve! :) Are you sure you can wait till the weekend to fire her up? Don't you want to know if it runs better NOW?!
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Well done Steve! :) Are you sure you can wait till the weekend to fire her up? Don't you want to know if it runs better NOW?!
Haha to be honest mate i'm a bit exhausted from it. the fact it was my first time :-[ :D and the fact i made a few mistakes and the final fact that the belt had no markings i made a right meal of it ;D ;D ;D
but yeah i defo want to fire the old boy up..... not lookin forward to reassembly. :o
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Well done Steve! :) Are you sure you can wait till the weekend to fire her up? Don't you want to know if it runs better NOW?!
Haha to be honest mate i'm a bit exhausted from it. the fact it was my first time :-[ :D and the fact i made a few mistakes and the final fact that the belt had no markings i made a right meal of it ;D ;D ;D
but yeah i defo want to fire the old boy up..... not lookin forward to reassembly. :o
It's a 2.5, so not even a plenum to refit.... 30 minutes work... put it together man ;D
Kidding - taking your time whilst learning is a great thing to do :y :y
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Haha yes. 30 min job will take me at least a day ;D
can i ask a quick Q........
for the most part when i was readjusting the cam positions i had the crank at 60o before TDC.
However, when i took off the belt again i noticed that they had slipped out of sync as there seems to be quite a bit of play in the cam locks.
anyway i went to readjust them but forgot to put the crank back and it was sat at TDC. The cams then took a bit of getting right cos they were just spinning right and left when i tried to get them spot on... eventually got them in place.
anyway my question is will i have done any damage when i accidentally moved the cams whilst the crank was at TDC?
i dont think so bearing in mind the engine was running with cam 1 at 4 or 5 teeth out and still worked... just. but would love your thoughts. Also i didnt force anything.
Cheers all
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Worth getting adapters, about a fiver from hellfrauds. Keep the receipt, you *will* break them
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PICS :)
Here's Ralf all timed up correctly..... water pump and all other things to follow when my phone decides it wants to send e mails again ::)
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/FINAL5.jpg)
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/FINAL4.jpg)
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/FINAL3.jpg)
Tensioner bang on the line as it's a re-used belt:
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/FINAL2.jpg)
Finally, just looking around at bits and bobs.... does this thin tube go in that small pipe.....??
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/jugfyycvcgvuhi-1.png)
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Is it just me / the picture / the angle - or does cam one look a little too advanced, given the crank is at TDC?
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Ps - that last photo looks v small, but the thing you've circled at the front is where the vaccum goes for your SAI :y
PPS - wtf's going on with the HT leads from the 1-3-5 bank, running under the EGR and over the top of the plenum like that? Don't recall it being like that when I took Ralfs plenum off and fixed the coolant bridge leak, prior to your ownership.. :-\
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Ps - that last photo looks v small, but the thing you've circled at the front is where the vaccum goes for your SAI :y
PPS - wtf's going on with the HT leads from the 1-3-5 bank, running under the EGR and over the top of the plenum like that? Don't recall it being like that when I took Ralfs plenum off and fixed the coolant bridge leak, prior to your ownership.. :-\
loll no its just the angle of the photo ;) i assure you theyre spot om the markson the tool ;)
as for the leads the disspc is out so all leads are out too... ill put it all back together soon ;)
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so the guy messed about with the timeing belt cause it wont go liken that on its own >:( >:(
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maybe a name 'n' shame is in order, Ralf. Ha ha LMAO ;)
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Is it just me / the picture / the angle - or does cam one look a little too advanced, given the crank is at TDC?
Parallax error :y
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maybe a name 'n' shame is in order, Ralf. Ha ha LMAO ;)
if i know his name i whould put it on here ;D ;D ;D
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maybe a name 'n' shame is in order, Ralf. Ha ha LMAO ;)
if i know his name i whould put it on here ;D ;D ;D
Well there's your mission mate. Find out and post up :y
Mark, you're quite right; it's just the angle of the photo. Also it doesn't help that the tippex the previous somebody put on was applied, how can I put this..... let's say in a ''general area'' ::)
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not bumping this thread but as part of my first cambelt job i thought i'd keep it all together...
my phone finally sent the pic ::)
waterpump:
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/Waterpump.jpg)
all that corrosion shite came off. that gasket is proper baked in there and as i wasn't replacing i thought it best to not lever it out ::) however pump looks good, spins freely and there is no play when its connected to the block :)
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Is the waaterpump noisy when you spin it?
Did you fire him up yet ?
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Is the waaterpump noisy when you spin it?
Did you fire him up yet ?
no noise at all mate :y
no, it will be tomorow :y
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I hope it all goes well tomorrow Webby :y
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cheers del. i went in the garage for something tonight and noticed the aux belt tensioner was missing its bolt... found it after 20 minutes... and i thought keeping everything in a deep box would help ::) ;D
quickly going to re-grease the pulley then all back together. ill get a vid up tomorrow showing if it went well..... or didnt! ;D
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come on webs, get the key turned, we all want to know..... ::)
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patience is a virtue my friend ;D
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Yeah and fingers crossed its all ok :y
Dont forget to put petrol in it :P :y
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patience is a virtue my friend ;D
What's that? Start it up ;) :y
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Yeah and fingers crossed its all ok :y
Dont forget to put petrol in it :P :y
good question...............trying to remember....................... :-\
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Well, fired him up. He has improved but still sounds a bit ''duggery''. trying to post the vid but my phone is giving me hell. will keep trying.
the fact that he still sounds tractory would that be an indication of bent valves?
:y
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:( oh no
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:( oh no
Bent valves, Steve?
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It dont sound too good does it , not an expert in diagnosis ;D Needs an expert eye over it to fully diagnose bent valves :y
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If your going to take the head off your going to find out anyway ::) :y
Enjoying the thread by the way and glad i'v got a "lowly" 4 pot
Phil
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If your going to take the head off your going to find out anyway ::) :y
Enjoying the thread by the way and glad i'v got a "lowly" 4 pot
Phil
Very good point :y
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Have you got ht leads connected right way on coil pack? I can pop over on the way home to kettering 2moro and have a look :y
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hi martin, thats very kind of you. the car stays at mums in moulton and i live in abington.... what sort of time are you passing and ill see if i can be there :)
cheers mate
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Sometime between 11 and 1 ish,depends when I get kicked out the other halfs bed ;)
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Sometime between 11 and 1 ish,depends when I get kicked out the other halfs bed ;)
PM sent :y