Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Car Chat => Topic started by: The Red Baron on 09 May 2012, 10:26:15
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has anyone relocated the disspack from the rear of the head?.
where would you put it?.
:-\
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has anyone relocated the disspack from the rear of the head?.
where would you put it?.
:-\
Not for good.... but to easily switch between disspacs during strip down i sat mine on the plenum ;D
as for relocation youll find that disspac connector dont want to move very far!
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has anyone relocated the disspack from the rear of the head?.
where would you put it?.
:-\
Cant see the point, it fits ok, is not that bad to change and will only realy need doing once in the engines life.
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Recall someone had moved it due to access and scuttle leakage :-\
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Where on Earth would you put it? lol I nearly lost my hand due to the limited access! ;D
I'd say the position is a bit shite. right under the scuttle where potentially water can leak. and also difficult to quickly replace leads and such.... but i really cant think where else it would go. :-\
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With a bit of bracketry im sure it could be moved , once the scuttle has been off it seems they prone to leak so re sealing with goo is a must . I was going to make a drip cover for the coil pack when i replaced mine , just a matter of what to use and how to secure it :-\
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With a bit of bracketry im sure it could be moved , once the scuttle has been off it seems they prone to leak so re sealing with goo is a must . I was going to make a drip cover for the coil pack when i replaced mine , just a matter of what to use and how to secure it :-\
I was thinking the exact same thing. only thing stopping me was thinking where would it drain off to? :-\
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With a bit of bracketry im sure it could be moved , once the scuttle has been off it seems they prone to leak so re sealing with goo is a must . I was going to make a drip cover for the coil pack when i replaced mine , just a matter of what to use and how to secure it :-\
I was thinking the exact same thing. only thing stopping me was thinking where would it drain off to? :-\
Just runs down the back of the engine i think , with plenty of sealant on the scuttle for a start to stop most of the dripping then the cover it should be good , maybe the OP was to move for a different reason
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But wouldn't that then drip on the crank sensor or something else quite important?
I reckon seal it up and have a drip tray attached to the scuttle itself. then drain out every month ;)
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But wouldn't that then drip on the crank sensor or something else quite important?
I reckon seal it up and have a drip tray attached to the scuttle itself. then drain out every month ;)
Don think there would be that much to cause any problem , no more than what gets sprayed underneath when its raining . I think someone said they used some of that shed felt draped over the coil pack , might have a go with that :)
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But wouldn't that then drip on the crank sensor or something else quite important?
I reckon seal it up and have a drip tray attached to the scuttle itself. then drain out every month ;)
Don think there would be that much to cause any problem , no more than what gets sprayed underneath when its raining . I think someone said they used some of that shed felt draped over the coil pack , might have a go with that :)
Now that sounds like a good idea.
Steve, if you do this defo post a guide as i bet you'd get lots of people doing that :y
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Just wondering about the heat issue :-\ dont want it melting and causing more grief .
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Just wondering about the heat issue :-\ dont want it melting and causing more grief .
Why not have it attached to the block ''eye'' and not touching the d/pc itself and create a ''run-off'' ;)
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Just wondering about the heat issue :-\ dont want it melting and causing more grief .
Why not have it attached to the block ''eye'' and not touching the d/pc itself and create a ''run-off'' ;)
Will have a look , just need to nick some felt out me dads shed now ;D :y
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I recently bought a facelift 3.0 Elite off another OOFer with the intention of breaking it. This has had the dis-pack relocated next the the PAS reservoir, where it has been cable tied in place!! :o
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I recently bought a facelift 3.0 Elite off another OOFer with the intention of breaking it. This has had the dis-pack relocated next the the PAS reservoir, where it has been cable tied in place!! :o
How's he got the chord stretched there Twig? :-\
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I recently bought a facelift 3.0 Elite off another OOFer with the intention of breaking it. This has had the dis-pack relocated next the the PAS reservoir, where it has been cable tied in place!! :o
How's he got the chord stretched there Twig? :-\
I haven't looked that closely to be honest, but there seems to be plenty of slack on all the leads. I assume that they are non-standard leads... :-\
At least when someone says they need a dis-pack, I won't have to spend an hour removing it, only to find it's knackered, hey Steve! ::) ;D :-X
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I recently bought a facelift 3.0 Elite off another OOFer with the intention of breaking it. This has had the dis-pack relocated next the the PAS reservoir, where it has been cable tied in place!! :o
This one perchance
(http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt292/PROMSB/Picture.jpg)
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Hahahahaha cheers mate ;)
i can see how the HT leads would stretch cos my ones from eurocarparts are well long compared to the originals..... i'm thinking more of the diosspac connector :-\
when you have a look would be good to see maybe with a pic ;) ;D
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Dont the coil pack have to be earthed though :-\
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Dont the coil pack have to be earthed though :-\
DIS doesn`t utilise an earth
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Plenty of room to fashion a shelf on the drivers side , just a case of replacing longer leads and power connection .
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I recently bought a facelift 3.0 Elite off another OOFer with the intention of breaking it. This has had the dis-pack relocated next the the PAS reservoir, where it has been cable tied in place!! :o
This one perchance
(http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt292/PROMSB/Picture.jpg)
Not sure if that is the same car Rob. Difficult to tell being that the one I have is covered in oil ::) The dis-pack is certainly in that general area though.
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There is no earth on a car....unless its been bolted to a bloody great big buried metal spike!
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There is no earth on a car....unless its been bolted to a bloody great big buried metal spike!
That might adversely affect performance somewhat! ;D
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There is no earth on a car.... .....
But you know what they mean .......... ::) ::)
0/zero volts is commonly refered to as 'earth' in automotive wiring diags ;)
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There is no earth on a car.... .....
But you know what they mean .......... ::) ::)
0/zero volts is commonly refered to as 'earth' in automotive wiring diags ;)
We been clocked "run" ! (http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p280/zerglin/Smileys/RUNN.gif)
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I relocated mine to just below the airbox - there's even a cutout in the box that looks made to measure.
I made up a small loom to extend the wiring without damaging the original wiring and knocked up a bracket out of some 1mm steel.
I did need to borrow a no.6 lead from the Carlton though, and that one has to run over the top of the engine but after 3 months I have had no problems.
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Never understand why people bother going to all that fuss of relocating? :-\
They last at least 10 years+, with the scuttle off they are fairly easy to change, just fiddly.
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I relocated mine to just below the airbox - there's even a cutout in the box that looks made to measure.
I made up a small loom to extend the wiring without damaging the original wiring and knocked up a bracket out of some 1mm steel.
I did need to borrow a no.6 lead from the Carlton though, and that one has to run over the top of the engine but after 3 months I have had no problems.
you got a pic of this murph? sounds great ;)
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Dunno - will look on the phone as I'm 200 miles from the car at present.
I relocated mine due to my spare being completely different and not fitting on the original bracket.
*EDIT*
Sorry no pic on my phone so I'll take one on monday.
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also a lot easier if leads need changing id imagine
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also a lot easier if leads need changing id imagine
Leads only need changing due to poor servicing, failed cam cover gaskets and oil in plugs will case HT leads to break down.
A well maintained car should go for 100k+ easily on a set of HT leads + DIS pack
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also a lot easier if leads need changing id imagine
Leads only need changing due to poor servicing, failed cam cover gaskets and oil in plugs will case HT leads to break down.
A well maintained car should go for 100k+ easily on a set of HT leads + DIS pack
oh ok, thats fair enough then. i didnt know that. may as well keep as is then :y :y :y
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I relocated mine to just below the airbox - there's even a cutout in the box that looks made to measure.
I made up a small loom to extend the wiring without damaging the original wiring and knocked up a bracket out of some 1mm steel.
I did need to borrow a no.6 lead from the Carlton though, and that one has to run over the top of the engine but after 3 months I have had no problems.
you got a pic of this murph? sounds great ;)
+ 1 pic would be great :y
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I'll get one on monday - somebody should remind me though, my head's like a sieve!
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One removed, the options are re fit it, or relocate it. Easier to re fit it surely? :-\
Often wondered about sliding a plastic guard of some sort down the back of the engine to keep and water off... But then it will rattle, be fiddly to fit, be in the way for other jobs, and sealing the scuttle is easier, ESP as it has to come off to get the dis out anyway.
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As requested... difficult to see in a photo though...
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b9/daymurphy/20120514_204535.jpg)
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That is certainly easier to get to :y
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Not sure I'd want my coil pack sitting under that amount of water :-\
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Would also imagine the leads are going to get pretty hot running past the exhaust manifold,although a noval design.
Each to their own I suppose ;D
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after looking at several options ive decided to leave it where it should be, having lpg on aswell just limits the space even more so it stays as. :y