Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Big_Al on 23 June 2012, 18:35:29
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Hi guys ,
finally traced the oil leak that has been bugging me for weeks. Cam cover was the presumed culprit so changed both gaskets as per maintenance guide. Still leaking. Then thought it was 2-4-6 cam cover , done gasket again twice , then replaced cover & gasket. . . still got oil leak . Have now ruled out a cam cover leak :'( :'( :'(
To cut a long story short, stripped down again as far as inlet bridge removed & a lot of oil laying in the V around the oil cooler plate.
Car is on ramps at the moment & when running ,oil leak is down back of the engine block.But cam covers are bone dry all round & plug wells dry. On flat ground oil runs to the front of engine showing mainly on top of the sump under the pulleys.
Have mopped up & dried all the oil in the V & turned the engine over with starter as best as possible in this stripped down situation . Oil light goes out so pressure is up ok. cant see anything definate as to a leak apart from a slight trace showing around the rear pipe union.
Re dried it off & turned engine over for a while . after leaving for a few minutes a slight trace of oil shows around the base of this rear pipe union. This is the large nut that is attached to the actual oil cooler plate. oil it seems is seeping out slightly around this joint . . . not the copper washer sides of the pipe union.. but the actual nut to plate joint
Cannot get a spanner on either this big nut or the union bolt (22mm) to see if not properly torqued up without taking the coolant bridge off & draining coolant.
does this big nut thread into the plate ? should there be a copper or fibre washer under it ?
Any one had an oil leak from this area & what is best option to stop it please.
No oil in coolant . . no coolant in oil . oil cooler was replaced by previous owner not long ago .
Any help greatly would be appriciated :) :) :) :y
TIA Al :y :y
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Oh dear Al, not good news after all the bloomin hassel youve already had with it.
ive not stripped one out so cant help you on that im afraid.
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Hi Al.
Oil cooler is not such a big deal to remove,but if its leaking oil it sounds like a failure in either the banjo bolt going from the oil pipe into the cooler or a pipe.
I assume you havent got oil in the water ? as that would seem to rule out the oil cooler actually failing.If you need to seal the oil cooler plate you would have coolant leaking as the plate seals the "bath of coolant" in the center of the V that allows the oil passing through the little radiator to be cooled...hence oil cooler ;D.
The 2 oil pipes feeding oil into the radiator have a metal washer on either side of the banjo bolt so I suppose one of them could have failed .Best bet is to get under the car on the N/S just above the oil filter and attempt to undo the 2 oil feed pipes that go up behind the back of the engine.You will need a 19mm crows foot wrench as access is quite tight.Easier with the oil filter out the way and also undo and tie the crank sensor out of the way,then you should be able to get on the 2 19mm pipe nuts.
If these can be undone you can then be sure the other end by the cooler will not have tension on them .Its then a matter of undoing the 2 banjo bolts and removing them from the oil cooler and probably replacing the sealing washers ..4 in number.They are a GM part so might not be available till mid week depending how good you local crew are ?.Suppose the banjo bolts might just be loose and need tightening up but don,t go mad as they are hollow and could shear off then you would need a new oil cooler at £120.
Seems strange its leaking oil there but that would be my advise....Best of luck with it. :y
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Just to add..the actual oil cooler is secured to the plate by the large 30mm copper nut.The banjo bolt then threads into the oil cooler with a small metal washer on either side of the oil feed pipe and that is then torqued....think 30nm.... into the cooler to make an oil tight seal.
Thats about the only way oil could seep out if either a washer is missing/damaged or the banjo bolt is loose...think the bolts are 22mm so almost worth just getting a 22mm socket on first and seeing if they are loose.
Coolant bridge shouldn,t need disturbing unless you are planning on taking the entire cooler radiator out which seems pointless as you don,t have a coolant leak.
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Hi Al.
Oil cooler is not such a big deal to remove,but if its leaking oil it sounds like a failure in either the banjo bolt going from the oil pipe into the cooler or a pipe.
I assume you havent got oil in the water ? as that would seem to rule out the oil cooler actually failing.If you need to seal the oil cooler plate you would have coolant leaking as the plate seals the "bath of coolant" in the center of the V that allows the oil passing through the little radiator to be cooled...hence oil cooler ;D.
The 2 oil pipes feeding oil into the radiator have a metal washer on either side of the banjo bolt so I suppose one of them could have failed .Best bet is to get under the car on the N/S just above the oil filter and attempt to undo the 2 oil feed pipes that go up behind the back of the engine.You will need a 19mm crows foot wrench as access is quite tight.Easier with the oil filter out the way and also undo and tie the crank sensor out of the way,then you should be able to get on the 2 19mm pipe nuts.
If these can be undone you can then be sure the other end by the cooler will not have tension on them .Its then a matter of undoing the 2 banjo bolts and removing them from the oil cooler and probably replacing the sealing washers ..4 in number.They are a GM part so might not be available till mid week depending how good you local crew are ?.Suppose the banjo bolts might just be loose and need tightening up but don,t go mad as they are hollow and could shear off then you would need a new oil cooler at £120.
Seems strange its leaking oil there but that would be my advise....Best of luck with it. :y
Hi Andrew , OK i'm getting the picture now. I was thinking oil would escape from the perimeter of the plate but now understand that if leaking there it would be coolant not oil ;) ;)
So it looks like after turning the engine on the starter for a while oil seems to be seeping (only a very slight seep though bearing in mind only been turning engine on starter) at the rear banjo bolt .
I thought it was showing coming from the base of the large nut & the cooler plate , but how you have explained it , that would be coolant & not oil :-\ :-\
So it must be coming from above that at the actual banjo oil pipe union . Problem there is that being the rear one it sits directly under the coolant bridge & getting any sort of spanner on it with the coolant bridge in place is impossible.
my next move for tomorrow i think will be : totally clean & clear all oil away from around the cooler plate. re assemble the top of the engine , run it up for 15 -20 mins to allow oil to start leaking . allow engine to cool & strip plenum, injectors, & inlet bridge again.
theory is as that area was cleaned of oil , I should be able to see where it is leaking .
last point . . . it must be the banjo union as oil is laying in that area , if it was a pipe leaking further down the back of the engine , surely gravity would take the oil downwards along the pipe & no oil would lay up in the V by the cooler plate?
Heres hoping . got my fingers , toes, legs & arms all crossed for tomorrow ;D ;D ;D
regards, Al :y
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dont forget if you take the coolant bridge off you will need new washers aswell. x4. :y
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Get new banjo bolt/copper washers for the bolt and dowty washers for the coolant bridge Al.The take the coolant bridge off, undo the banjo bolt and replace with new bolt and washers.This may be easier if you slacken the pipe down at the oil filter end first,but imo it should be ok to just do the top end on its own. Probably worth doing both banjo bolts ? washers while your there I suppose
Also worth checking the big nuts are correctly torqued while your in there. :y
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^^true, better safe than sorry. :y
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Hi Al.
Oil cooler is not such a big deal to remove,but if its leaking oil it sounds like a failure in either the banjo bolt going from the oil pipe into the cooler or a pipe.
I assume you havent got oil in the water ? as that would seem to rule out the oil cooler actually failing.If you need to seal the oil cooler plate you would have coolant leaking as the plate seals the "bath of coolant" in the center of the V that allows the oil passing through the little radiator to be cooled...hence oil cooler ;D.
The 2 oil pipes feeding oil into the radiator have a metal washer on either side of the banjo bolt so I suppose one of them could have failed .Best bet is to get under the car on the N/S just above the oil filter and attempt to undo the 2 oil feed pipes that go up behind the back of the engine.You will need a 19mm crows foot wrench as access is quite tight.Easier with the oil filter out the way and also undo and tie the crank sensor out of the way,then you should be able to get on the 2 19mm pipe nuts.
If these can be undone you can then be sure the other end by the cooler will not have tension on them .Its then a matter of undoing the 2 banjo bolts and removing them from the oil cooler and probably replacing the sealing washers ..4 in number.They are a GM part so might not be available till mid week depending how good you local crew are ?.Suppose the banjo bolts might just be loose and need tightening up but don,t go mad as they are hollow and could shear off then you would need a new oil cooler at £120.
Seems strange its leaking oil there but that would be my advise....Best of luck with it. :y
Hi Andrew , OK i'm getting the picture now. I was thinking oil would escape from the perimeter of the plate but now understand that if leaking there it would be coolant not oil ;) ;)
So it looks like after turning the engine on the starter for a while oil seems to be seeping (only a very slight seep though bearing in mind only been turning engine on starter) at the rear banjo bolt .
I thought it was showing coming from the base of the large nut & the cooler plate , but how you have explained it , that would be coolant & not oil :-\ :-\
So it must be coming from above that at the actual banjo oil pipe union . Problem there is that being the rear one it sits directly under the coolant bridge & getting any sort of spanner on it with the coolant bridge in place is impossible.
my next move for tomorrow i think will be : totally clean & clear all oil away from around the cooler plate. re assemble the top of the engine , run it up for 15 -20 mins to allow oil to start leaking . allow engine to cool & strip plenum, injectors, & inlet bridge again.
theory is as that area was cleaned of oil , I should be able to see where it is leaking .
last point . . . it must be the banjo union as oil is laying in that area , if it was a pipe leaking further down the back of the engine , surely gravity would take the oil downwards along the pipe & no oil would lay up in the V by the cooler plate?
Heres hoping . got my fingers , toes, legs & arms all crossed for tomorrow ;D ;D ;D
regards, Al :y
what your opinion on this guys , could oil be leaking from anywhere else & laying in the V around the cooler plate ? Cam covers are absolutely dry so not those. :-\ :-\ :-\
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hi mate
i had the same problem with mine i cured it by replacing both banjo bolts and new copper washers not had a problem since
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hi mate
i had the same problem with mine i cured it by replacing both banjo bolts and new copper washers not had a problem since
Ummm ! looking promising then ;) ;) ;) ;) ;)
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I did mention this too you before. I have seen a number of banjo bolts leaking that I have replaced the alloy o rings to solve the problem.
There are not to many thinkings in the V that can leak oil :y water there are a few places :y
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If you need any tools Al - torque wrench/spanners/crows foot spanners etc. let me know. :y
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I did mention this too you before. I have seen a number of banjo bolts leaking that I have replaced the alloy o rings to solve the problem.
There are not to many thinkings in the V that can leak oil :y water there are a few places :y
You did Daz, I checked out all the other suggestions you mentioned but overlooked that one . . ::) ::) ::)
Typical of my luck at the moment . . . the only one of your suggestions I could not remember . . seems like the problem :'( :'( :'( :
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If you need any tools Al - torque wrench/spanners/crows foot spanners etc. let me know. :y
Thanks Albs . . but Bruv has got more tools than a Snap On salesman ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
He buys 'em . . I borrow them ! ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
Nice offer though . . Oof at it's best again :y :y
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At least it will be a cheap fix Al. A couple of bolts, 4 copper washers and 4 dowty washers. :y
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Coolant pipe O-ring.Dowty washers 4 required 9128362
Oil Cooler Hollow Bolts 2 required 90424578
Oil Cooler Hollow Bolt copper seals 4 required 11076852
Found these numbers on old receipt I had when I last did my oil cooler so may be of help...total cost around £20-£25
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Coolant pipe O-ring.Dowty washers 4 required 9128362
Oil Cooler Hollow Bolts 2 required 90424578
Oil Cooler Hollow Bolt copper seals 4 required 11076852
Found these numbers on old receipt I had when I last did my oil cooler so may be of help...total cost around £20-£25
Got up this morning & first thought was to ask for assistance with part numbers . . . . already here & waiting 8) 8) 8) 8)
Once again Oof at it's best . . . thanks Andrew :y :y :y
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Good morning ,Al.
Something has been playing on my mind all night ...sad I know ;D
You say that the oil cooler was replaced by the previous owner ?.....How long have you had the car and how long has the oil leak been there.??
Reason I ask is if the person who replaced the oil cooler possibly only used the old copper washer on either side of the banjo bolts ,or worse still didn,t use any or just maybe a couple ,that would be a very clear reason how the leak has appeared wher it has as the pipes are not correctly sealed.
It is also slightly possible that if the cooler bolts were replaced when the oil cooler was changed also,the wrong length of bolt could have been used. I found that out when I did mine as the oil cooler banjo bolts are a different length to those for the coolant bridge..(.can,t remember which is longer/shorter ) but again posibly if the wrong length bolts have been used this would also cause the issue you have described as if too long a bolt has been used it wouldn,t fully torque down therefore the bolt would be loose in the thread if that makes sense.
Needs pulling apart for a proper look but sure it is quite a straight forward fix...its just you will need some bits which are dealer only .
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Good morning ,Al.
Something has been playing on my mind all night ...sad I know ;D
You say that the oil cooler was replaced by the previous owner ?.....How long have you had the car and how long has the oil leak been there.??
Reason I ask is if the person who replaced the oil cooler possibly only used the old copper washer on either side of the banjo bolts ,or worse still didn,t use any or just maybe a couple ,that would be a very clear reason how the leak has appeared wher it has as the pipes are not correctly sealed.
It is also slightly possible that if the cooler bolts were replaced when the oil cooler was changed also,the wrong length of bolt could have been used. I found that out when I did mine as the oil cooler banjo bolts are a different length to those for the coolant bridge..(.can,t remember which is longer/shorter ) but again posibly if the wrong length bolts have been used this would also cause the issue you have described as if too long a bolt has been used it wouldn,t fully torque down therefore the bolt would be loose in the thread if that makes sense.
Needs pulling apart for a proper look but sure it is quite a straight forward fix...its just you will need some bits which are dealer only .
Andrew, got car end of April. Purchased from another Oof member at a very reasonable price . Brought it knowing an oil leak was present but previous owner thought it was a cam cover leak.
Previous owner had maintained the car very well & I would think it unlikely that new washers were not used or the long/short bolts fitted incorrectly when the oil cooler was changed. He may read this thread & respond , but I brought the car knowing of the leak & one or two other little niggles.
Brought the car with the intent of not using it until the few minor jobs were corrected . So done cam covers - TWICE :'( :'( replaced 2-4-6 cam cover as thought it may be warped. Still have an oil leak. Have now found leak to be oil cooler related .
When stripping down yesterday , I removed the black inlet bridge for the first time & thats when I discovered oil all around the oil cooler plate.
Of the two oil pipes & banjo unions in the V , the unions sit above a slight circular "well" in the alloy casting ,the front one was totally oil free, but the rear well was full of oil . To me this must be where the leak is occuring.
To further this theory , when front of car is on ramps (as is now) the oil leak shows down the back of the the block as the engine is tilted backwards slightly. But when the car is on flat ground as normal the oil leak shows around the front of the engine as it is tilted slightly forward if this makes sense ::) ::)
Am going to replace both banjo bolts & all 4 copper washers & the dowdy washers on the coolant bridge with GM parts & see what occurs from there .
Regards, Al :y :y
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Understand perfectly now ,Al and my money is on the banjo bolt washers either missing or not seated correctly .
When I cahnged mine despite my best efforts I was unable .....( or incompetant ) to be able to release the lower bolts on the 2 oil cooler pipes at the oil filter end so I resorted to gently bending the pipes.I was extremely carefull as I could understand the implications of not getting them back just right and having further issues.
In truth when I came to replace the 2 banjo bolts the fun and games started.The front pipe being the longest and having more flexibility went on ok and mangaed to get washers on either side of bolt and then gently finger tightened up into oil cooler as wary about cross threading into copper core.The back pipe being much shorter had less spring and was a right sod to get into position with bolt and washers all in place and applying pressure and gently finger tightening up.Manged to get it done by wedging bits of wood against pipe to ease leverage but it was a right game...I know it would have been so much easier with the bottom bolts freed allowing the pipes to move around unrestricted.
Now I am not casting disperssions on the member you bought from but if they had similar experiences as me that may be the root cause of the leak and why and how it is failing.
I was so carefull it was crazy to watch but did get it all back and sealed/torqued correctly so it is just possible that is where the problem might be.
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Understand perfectly now ,Al and my money is on the banjo bolt washers either missing or not seated correctly .
When I cahnged mine despite my best efforts I was unable .....( or incompetant ) to be able to release the lower bolts on the 2 oil cooler pipes at the oil filter end so I resorted to gently bending the pipes.I was extremely carefull as I could understand the implications of not getting them back just right and having further issues.
In truth when I came to replace the 2 banjo bolts the fun and games started.The front pipe being the longest and having more flexibility went on ok and mangaed to get washers on either side of bolt and then gently finger tightened up into oil cooler as wary about cross threading into copper core.The back pipe being much shorter had less spring and was a right sod to get into position with bolt and washers all in place and applying pressure and gently finger tightening up.Manged to get it done by wedging bits of wood against pipe to ease leverage but it was a right game...I know it would have been so much easier with the bottom bolts freed allowing the pipes to move around unrestricted.
Now I am not casting disperssions on the member you bought from but if they had similar experiences as me that may be the root cause of the leak and why and how it is failing.
I was so carefull it was crazy to watch but did get it all back and sealed/torqued correctly so it is just possible that is where the problem might be.
Andrew, Bearing in mind that I'm not removing the plate or cooler. With the coolant bridge released & out of the way do you think that the rear banjo bolt will just wind out allowing me to replace the washers & then re fit a new bolt & washers . Thinking that I would only need a slight bit of up & down movement on that pipe union & would not need to do any bending .
Also as the front banjo on the long pipe is oil tight . . I am tempted not to disturb that one & leave well alone .What do think ?
One last question . . . should you be able to see the copper washers when banjo bolt is assembled & torqued ?
Could e mail you a couple of pics if you want to have a look
Regards, Al :y :y
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There are 2 rubber seals on top of the oil cooler radiator, I would change those as well. I'll dig the part number out later. They are only about 12p each ;)
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There are 2 rubber seals on top of the oil cooler radiator, I would change those as well. I'll dig the part number out later. They are only about 12p each ;)
He says he has an oil leak though Youth, also he does not want to remove the oil cooler or plate. :y
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There are 2 rubber seals on top of the oil cooler radiator, I would change those as well. I'll dig the part number out later. They are only about 12p each ;)
He says he has an oil leak though Youth, also he does not want to remove the oil cooler or plate. :y
Didn't read that far youth :-[ If it was me, I would reseal it while I was there though
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Only the Banjo bolt and copper washers seal for oil so you may just be able to undo the bolt and lift the pipe enough to get ..hopefully if they are fitted...the old copper washers and replace.
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Update: Just been out & had a look . . overnight the rear union has oil around it again . it seems to have been seeping from the joint & laying down in the circular "well" in the plate casting below the banjo .
I had dried & soaked the oil up when I left it last night . Seems pretty conclusive to me now that the leak is from there. :) :)
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hope youve got to the bottom of it now. :y
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Al.
You will have to remove the coolant bridge to get at the banjo bolt...removing the coolant bridge will require 4 new dowty washers.
I would be inclined to undo and remove the rear banjo bolt which should give you just enough flex to allow it to be lifted slightly and remove any washer ?? that is under the oil union.The one on the top of the bolt will come off when you pull out the banjo bolt.
Whilst its removed I would also check that the large cooler nut is tight although as you have had no coolant leaking sure that would be fine.For added peace of mind I would be inclined to replace both banjo bolts and there respective washers as if the back is leaking now you will kick yourself if a while down the line the front one then starts weeping oil...just my opinion as I am slighlty OTT when it comes to making sure things are sealed correctly.
Lets us know what you find when you remove the rear bolt..my money is on only 1 copper washer being fitted at the top.
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Will let you know what I find . . . :-\ :-\ :-\
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Al,dont bother replacing the coolant bridge.Its juat a piece of cast metal,wont be anything to do with your problem. You just need to replece the crushable dowty washers afteryouve removed the bridge to get at the cooler pipe.
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OK. Drained coolant . . . coolant bridge is off . . 4 dowty washers 1 looked a bit dodgy but was not leaking water .
Undone rear oil banjo 2 washers one top one bottom . . BUT NOT copper :o :o :o a silver colour
Undone front banjo . . same . . 2 washers but NOT copper . . . same silver colour as rear.
Can any confirm that these should be copper ?
Also Amba suggested that the 22mm coolant bridge & 22mm banjo bolts are different lengths . . . not so here :o :o :o :o . . both read 34mm total length on vernier
Can any one supply me part numbers for the coolant bridge bolts & the banjo bolts to see if the numbers differ ?
TIA Al :y :y
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Solid copper would be too hard for the banjo bolt. Composite copper would work (but composite copper washers probably had an asbestos core........)
Aluminium washers will be just about right to deform and provide a seal without overstressing the banjo bolts. (the banjo bolts are drilled lengthways & crossways so there really isn't much strength left).
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90424578 HOLLOW CHANNEL BOLT FOR COOLER RADIATOR
12992646 HOLLOW CHANNEL BOLT FOR COOLER BRIDGE
They are a slightly different Length,Al,but for the life of me I can,t remember which is longer/shorter.
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They are an alloy looking colour :y not a copper colour :y
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They are an alloy looking colour :y not a copper colour :y
Thanks Daz . . . . Looks like correct ones were fitted then . Will get new ones from VX tomorrow :y :y
Is torque setting 30Nm for both banjo union hollow bolts & coolant bridge hollow bolts ? :-\ :-\
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I was remebereing them as copper tbh,but maybe I was thinking of the washers on thegearbox cooler to rad pipes ? :-\
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Yes,Al ,get them torqued down to 30nm both coolant bridge banjo bolts and oil coolers .
I also remember the washers were an alloy colour not copper so they are really a " crush washer" allowing the thin walled banjo bolt not to require a heavy torque setting to allow it to seal.
Surprised you found washers on both sides of the bolt ,as had expected 1 or more to be missing given the oil leak.
Were the bolts slightly loose then or the washers damaged in any way .?
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They are an alloy looking colour :y not a copper colour :y
Thanks Daz . . . . Looks like correct ones were fitted then . Will get new ones from VX tomorrow :y :y
Is torque setting 30Nm for both banjo union hollow bolts & coolant bridge hollow bolts ? :-\ :-\
Yes both the Coolant Bridge banjo bolts and Oil Cooler banjo bolts need to be tightened to 30nm.
Don't forget you need
4 Coolant Bridge Dowty Washers ( washers with rubber in the centre )
4 Oil Cooler Pipe alloy O rings.
That is assuming you have not removed the Oil Cooler Plate that bolts to the engine block. If you have you need a tube of grey sealant (which is about a third of the length of a normal sealant tube) :y
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If you want to check the torque for the big nuts (cooler to cover plate) they are also 30nm. Small bolts (cooler plate to block) are 20nm. :y
Casting to cylinder block (M8) bolts - is that coolant bridge bolts ? If so according to harry Haynes they should be 20nm. :-\
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oil cooler plate has not been touched . . only the coolant bridge & the 2 oil pipe banjos.
Got all the details I need I think :P going to Vx tomorrow for bits & if they have them will try to get back together tomorrow after work
Thanks guys for all the advice . . . . fingers crossed this should cure it ;) ;) ;)
Regards, Al :y
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Lets hope for a satisfactory conclusoin,Al. :y
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Al - when I replaced oil cooler i fitted new washers (supplied by Vx) to banjo unions, new dowty type washers (Vx) to coolant bridge as well as new rubber o-rings (Vx) that sit between oil cooler and bottom of plate and seal when 30mm nuts tightened.
I am also aware that the coolant bridge bolts are slightly different to the oil cooler bolts (having fell for this on the Estate after I sheared one of the oil cooler bolts whilst retorquing). The oil cooler pipes were removed at the lower end (19mm crowsfoot) so there was no risk of straining the pipes. Oil cooler & crank sensor removed to gain access.
I did not replace the two oil cooler bolts - re-used originals. With hindsight I feel I should have as it is possible one of these may have weakened and stetched ? All bolts/nuts were torqued to correct torque.
It would be prudent to replace both these bolts together with new washers. HTH ;)
If a coolant bridge bolt is fitted to the oil cooler you won't get a slight leak it actually pours out, a large pool forming in seconds!!
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Al - when I replaced oil cooler i fitted new washers (supplied by Vx) to banjo unions, new dowty type washers (Vx) to coolant bridge as well as new rubber o-rings (Vx) that sit between oil cooler and bottom of plate and seal when 30mm nuts tightened.
I am also aware that the coolant bridge bolts are slightly different to the oil cooler bolts (having fell for this on the Estate after I sheared one of the oil cooler bolts whilst retorquing). The oil cooler pipes were removed at the lower end (19mm crowsfoot) so there was no risk of straining the pipes. Oil cooler & crank sensor removed to gain access.
I did not replace the two oil cooler bolts - re-used originals. With hindsight I feel I should have as it is possible one of these may have weakened and stetched ? All bolts/nuts were torqued to correct torque.
It would be prudent to replace both these bolts together with new washers. HTH ;)
If a coolant bridge bolt is fitted to the oil cooler you won't get a slight leak it actually pours out, a large pool forming in seconds!!
hi colin,
have ordered 2 new banjo bolts all new washers for both coolant bridge (dowty) & the banjos from AndyC at Bury. My local VX dealer only had 1 of each of the washers in stock ;D ;D ;D can't see what use 1 would be to anyone ::) ::) ::)
Pulling my hair out on this oil leak now . . but think I may have found it with this . Other than cam covers ( which have been done & are bone dry everywhere) I dont think there is anywhere where oil would leak & lay around the oil cooler plate in the V.
Can you remember how long the leak has been there from when you were using the car ? is it fairly recent or not ?
You can may be also advise what is the difference in the coolant bridge & the banjo bolts . They look identical to me & exactly the same length (34mm) checked on a vernier . I am going to have another close look now & will post a separate question on this to see what other Oofers come up with :y :y
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Al - when I replaced oil cooler i fitted new washers (supplied by Vx) to banjo unions, new dowty type washers (Vx) to coolant bridge as well as new rubber o-rings (Vx) that sit between oil cooler and bottom of plate and seal when 30mm nuts tightened.
I am also aware that the coolant bridge bolts are slightly different to the oil cooler bolts (having fell for this on the Estate after I sheared one of the oil cooler bolts whilst retorquing). The oil cooler pipes were removed at the lower end (19mm crowsfoot) so there was no risk of straining the pipes. Oil cooler & crank sensor removed to gain access.
I did not replace the two oil cooler bolts - re-used originals. With hindsight I feel I should have as it is possible one of these may have weakened and stetched ? All bolts/nuts were torqued to correct torque.
It would be prudent to replace both these bolts together with new washers. HTH ;)
If a coolant bridge bolt is fitted to the oil cooler you won't get a slight leak it actually pours out, a large pool forming in seconds!!
So the oil cooler bolts are slighlty smaller in length then :)
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Al - when I replaced oil cooler i fitted new washers (supplied by Vx) to banjo unions, new dowty type washers (Vx) to coolant bridge as well as new rubber o-rings (Vx) that sit between oil cooler and bottom of plate and seal when 30mm nuts tightened.
I am also aware that the coolant bridge bolts are slightly different to the oil cooler bolts (having fell for this on the Estate after I sheared one of the oil cooler bolts whilst retorquing). The oil cooler pipes were removed at the lower end (19mm crowsfoot) so there was no risk of straining the pipes. Oil cooler & crank sensor removed to gain access.
I did not replace the two oil cooler bolts - re-used originals. With hindsight I feel I should have as it is possible one of these may have weakened and stetched ? All bolts/nuts were torqued to correct torque.
It would be prudent to replace both these bolts together with new washers. HTH ;)
If a coolant bridge bolt is fitted to the oil cooler you won't get a slight leak it actually pours out, a large pool forming in seconds!!
So the oil cooler bolts are slighlty smaller in length then :)
I have both pairs from my engine on my kitchen table . have checked all dimensions , holes & bore sizes ,thread lengths . . both pairs are exactly the same . Only difference is the 2 types of washer fitted.
I have now posted a separate thread to try & find what the difference is . But with both pairs being exactly the same length it would seem one pair are wrongly fitted to my engine :-\ :-\ :-\ :-\
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Al.
They are quoted as seperate part numbers so I assume they are different but never checked lenghts etc.
When I did mine I replaced both the coolant bridge and Oil cooler banjo bolts as was concerned about them shearing when re-torqued up.
I ordered them from VX in Dartford and they came in seperate bags which I then marked prior to fitting according to there number.
My only conclusion with yours is they are the same length/thread/bore etc because they are ALL either coolant bridge or oil cooler bolts and a previous repair has fitted them possible incorrectly or unaware they differed...that may be part of the reason you have a slight oil leak.
Sure I read somewher a guy from Finland ?? fitted them all the same and couldn,t get 1 set to torque up correctly.
Be interesting to see what the Forum,s opinion is
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Al.
They are quoted as seperate part numbers so I assume they are different but never checked lenghts etc.
When I did mine I replaced both the coolant bridge and Oil cooler banjo bolts as was concerned about them shearing when re-torqued up.
I ordered them from VX in Dartford and they came in seperate bags which I then marked prior to fitting according to there number.
My only conclusion with yours is they are the same length/thread/bore etc because they are ALL either coolant bridge or oil cooler bolts and a previous repair has fitted them possible incorrectly or unaware they differed...that may be part of the reason you have a slight oil leak.
Sure I read somewher a guy from Finland ?? fitted them all the same and couldn,t get 1 set to torque up correctly.
Be interesting to see what the Forum,s opinion is
Andrew, have ordered only new banjo bolts . . so if they arrive & are a different length then it will be problem solved & we will know if they should be longer or shorter than the coolant bridge ones .
Bigger problem occurs if they are the same length as the 4 I have taken off. :'( :'( :'( :'( :'(
As you said lets see what the forum turns up .
this is turning into the "Oil leak from HELL" :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'(
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Al.
I never payed any attention to them when I replaced mine as each bag had 2 bolts in and I labeled them against part number I previously sent over:
90424578 HOLLOW CHANNEL BOLT FOR COOLER RADIATOR
12992646 HOLLOW CHANNEL BOLT FOR COOLER BRIDGE
Fingers crossed for you, mate.
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Al.
I never payed any attention to them when I replaced mine as each bag had 2 bolts in and I labeled them against part number I previously sent over:
90424578 HOLLOW CHANNEL BOLT FOR COOLER RADIATOR
12992646 HOLLOW CHANNEL BOLT FOR COOLER BRIDGE
Fingers crossed for you, mate.
Thats the number I have ordered :y :y
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This would be my theory then ,Al.
If you have the correct seals and bolts for the oil cooler then that should fix that leak . :y
You had NO coolant leak with the bolts you have fitted ..wether they be the right ? or wrong ? parts numbers :-\ ...so with new dowty washer correctly torqued down that also shouldn,t leak. :y
Jobs a good,n :y
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Al - when I replaced oil cooler i fitted new washers (supplied by Vx) to banjo unions, new dowty type washers (Vx) to coolant bridge as well as new rubber o-rings (Vx) that sit between oil cooler and bottom of plate and seal when 30mm nuts tightened.
I am also aware that the coolant bridge bolts are slightly different to the oil cooler bolts (having fell for this on the Estate after I sheared one of the oil cooler bolts whilst retorquing). The oil cooler pipes were removed at the lower end (19mm crowsfoot) so there was no risk of straining the pipes. Oil cooler & crank sensor removed to gain access.
I did not replace the two oil cooler bolts - re-used originals. With hindsight I feel I should have as it is possible one of these may have weakened and stetched ? All bolts/nuts were torqued to correct torque.
It would be prudent to replace both these bolts together with new washers. HTH ;)
If a coolant bridge bolt is fitted to the oil cooler you won't get a slight leak it actually pours out, a large pool forming in seconds!!
So the oil cooler bolts are slighlty smaller in length then :)
No the difference is in the amount of thread - a coolant bridge bolt if fitted to oil cooler torques up before clamping the banjo and sealing washers.
Al - the correct bolts were fitted to both oil cooler and coolant bridge by me - fact! However from my experience on the Elite Estate I suspect these bolts may weaken and stretch when reused (at best or at worst shear as I found out on the Estate. As I was in a rush I fitted the only new bolt I had which turned out to be a Coolant bridge bolt from the part no to the Estate. Oil really pi**ed out! Fitted 2 new oil cooler bolts from Vx - no leaks). Sure if you fit new correct oil cooler bolts + new sealing washers from Vx and torque correctly result will be no oil leak!
In answer to your other question, suspect oil leak started after I fitted new oil cooler (but not immediately). I suspected passenger side cam cover, but as oil loss was low (rarely needed topping up) tended to ignore it. HTH
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Thanks dbug :y
can see it now , thread length. But the difference is so small that you have to really look close to see it.
I would guess that it probably only 1 more turn of thread. I will attempt to count the thread turns with a nut when home from work tonight .
When re-used I can see the stretching theory would come into play .
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So looks like we have an answer to the difference in the2 part #,s.
Fingers crossed for you ,Al ,that it ends in smiles...sure it will. :y
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Here is a curved ball for you.
The oil cooler and coolant bridge bolts on the 2.5 and 3.0 are the same....
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Here is a curved ball for you.
The oil cooler and coolant bridge bolts on the 2.5 and 3.0 are the same....
No they're not - different part nos for oil cooler bolts and coolant bridge bolts. Although the same size, they have different thread lengths.
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Re: the last 2 posts above . . . . Now I really am confused ;D ;D ;D ;D
Now . . does Marks DTM mean that the same 2 types bolts are used on both the 2.5 & 3.0 engines ?
Or does he mean either part No. of bolt will do either job (coolant bridge or oil pipe union ) meaning both part No. bolts are identical ?
Been told that if you use coolant bridge bolts on the oil unions you get a very big oil leak ... :o :o
This thread is def helping my post count . . only 30 odd away from a knighthood now ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
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Believe me Al they are different :y
can see it now , thread length. But the difference is so small that you have to really look close to see it.
- believe your own eyes!!
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[quote ;=dbug link=topic=104501.msg1309833#msg1309833 date=1340758609]
Believe me Al they are different :y
can see it now , thread length. But the difference is so small that you have to really look close to see it.
- believe your own eyes!!
[/quote]
Booking myself in at Specsavers . . . just to make sure ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
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Here is a curved ball for you.
The oil cooler and coolant bridge bolts on the 2.5 and 3.0 are the same....
No they're not - different part nos for oil cooler bolts and coolant bridge bolts. Although the same size, they have different thread lengths.
I cna assure you that in as left the factory state, the ones used on the 2.5 and 3.0 are the same.
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Here is a curved ball for you.
The oil cooler and coolant bridge bolts on the 2.5 and 3.0 are the same....
No they're not - different part nos for oil cooler bolts and coolant bridge bolts. Although the same size, they have different thread lengths.
I cna assure you that in as left the factory state, the ones used on the 2.5 and 3.0 are the same.
I'm NOT trying to say you are wrong but why would they then have two part numbers if the part is the same?
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Here is a curved ball for you.
The oil cooler and coolant bridge bolts on the 2.5 and 3.0 are the same....
No they're not - different part nos for oil cooler bolts and coolant bridge bolts. Although the same size, they have different thread lengths.
I cna assure you that in as left the factory state, the ones used on the 2.5 and 3.0 are the same.
I'm NOT trying to say you are wrong but why would they then have two part numbers if the part is the same?
If you look at the replacement parts they are totaly different in design to the factory fit.
Its wrong to assume that spares over the counter are the same as the factory items and if they can list fewer parts by suspersession of the older items they will :y
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Here is a curved ball for you.
The oil cooler and coolant bridge bolts on the 2.5 and 3.0 are the same....
No they're not - different part nos for oil cooler bolts and coolant bridge bolts. Although the same size, they have different thread lengths.
I cna assure you that in as left the factory state, the ones used on the 2.5 and 3.0 are the same.
When they arrive just gonna fit the new oil pipe bolts & washers parts as supplied by Andy C & see if my leak is cured . . . :D :D :D :D
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Here is a curved ball for you.
The oil cooler and coolant bridge bolts on the 2.5 and 3.0 are the same....
No they're not - different part nos for oil cooler bolts and coolant bridge bolts. Although the same size, they have different thread lengths.
I cna assure you that in as left the factory state, the ones used on the 2.5 and 3.0 are the same.
I'm NOT trying to say you are wrong but why would they then have two part numbers if the part is the same?
If you look at the replacement parts they are totaly different in design to the factory fit.
Its wrong to assume that spares over the counter are the same as the factory items and if they can list fewer parts by suspersession of the older items they will :y
That exactly was my point: why would they fit SAME parts in factory and then have TWO different codes/parts for replacement :-\
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The inference would be that the 2.6 and 3.2 ones are different (for some unknown reason) and hence the supersession around 2000/2001?
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Banjo bolts for oil cooler pipes need to withstand oil pressure (60 psi?) oil temperature (120 deg C?) and the leverage on 18" long oil cooler pipes.
Coolant bridge banjo bolts need to withstand corrosion and coolant at 15 psi and 100 deg C (maximum).
It would make sense to me if the coolant bridge bolts were relatively weak but corrosion resistant while the oil cooler bolts were stronger but unable to withstand corrosion.
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Here is a curved ball for you.
The oil cooler and coolant bridge bolts on the 2.5 and 3.0 are the same....
No they're not - different part nos for oil cooler bolts and coolant bridge bolts. Although the same size, they have different thread lengths.
I cna assure you that in as left the factory state, the ones used on the 2.5 and 3.0 are the same.
Ah - can understand that now - as on oil cooler bolt would seal ok on coolant bridge but not vice versa. OE - 4 x oil cooler bolts ?
A curved ball indeedy ::)
Al - fixed it yet?
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Here is a curved ball for you.
The oil cooler and coolant bridge bolts on the 2.5 and 3.0 are the same....
No they're not - different part nos for oil cooler bolts and coolant bridge bolts. Although the same size, they have different thread lengths.
I cna assure you that in as left the factory state, the ones used on the 2.5 and 3.0 are the same.
Ah - can understand that now - as on oil cooler bolt would seal ok on coolant bridge but not vice versa. OE - 4 x oil cooler bolts ?
A curved ball indeedy ::)
Al - fixed it yet?
Oil pipe bolts with new washers arrived today , Fitted tonight, all assembled & torqued as instructed , new dowty washers on the coolant bridge bolts & torqued up.
All back together & have run engine for 20 mins. Cant see any leak as yet . Will leave over night & have a look in morning .
Will take car for 20 mile run tomorrow evening & see what we get .
I'm hopeful it may be cured ::) ::)
New bolts seemed exactly the same as what came off ::) ::)
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Fingers crossed for you,Al.
Whilst they may have appeared the same you do have the peace of mind that the job has been done properly using the correct parts so all things being equal problem should be solved.
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Here is a curved ball for you.
The oil cooler and coolant bridge bolts on the 2.5 and 3.0 are the same....
No they're not - different part nos for oil cooler bolts and coolant bridge bolts. Although the same size, they have different thread lengths.
I cna assure you that in as left the factory state, the ones used on the 2.5 and 3.0 are the same.
Ah - can understand that now - as on oil cooler bolt would seal ok on coolant bridge but not vice versa. OE - 4 x oil cooler bolts ?
A curved ball indeedy ::)
Al - fixed it yet?
Oil pipe bolts with new washers arrived today , Fitted tonight, all assembled & torqued as instructed , new dowty washers on the coolant bridge bolts & torqued up.
All back together & have run engine for 20 mins. Cant see any leak as yet . Will leave over night & have a look in morning .
Will take car for 20 mile run tomorrow evening & see what we get .
I'm hopeful it may be cured ::) ::)
New bolts seemed exactly the same as what came off ::) ::)
Sounds promising Al :y
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The oil Leak
Dam ,bug*er , sh*t, bollo*ks it's still leaking as before , just cannot see where it is coming from :( :( :( :(
Have now dropped car off of the ramps it was on .run it up for 15 mins & was just going to take it for a 20 mile run , had a last look & oil is showing on the top of the sump below the pulleys again and dripping off of the the two torx headed bolts on the bottom of the bell housing. :o :o :o :o
Don,t know what the next move to try & trace it is really . :-\ :-\ :-\ :-\
If I strip down plenum, injectors & inlet bridge & oil is in the V again around the oil cooler plate, the leak must be in that area.
Bit fed up with it all now to be honest :( :(
Think I may just scrap it :-\ :-\ :-\ :-\
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Gutted for you,Al.
I suppose the only real way to see if its still leaking from that oil union feedvis to pull the top apart yet again.
Only things now left are the oil feed pipe and the oil cooler its self..Suppose it could be either really as the feed pipe could possibly not be sealing flat against the crush washers or maybe the thread in the oil cooler is slightly damaged but if you have torqued down the bolt it must have enough thread to bite.
Don,t fancy replacing those oil feed pipes as think they are secured by a bracket at the back of the block and access to that would be very restricted with engine in place.Suppose you could always use a flexy pipe feed assuming you can get a connection at the block.
If all else fails bypass the water cooled oil cooler and fit a retro fit elsewhere although this is starting to get pricey and again time consuming.
Gutted for you,Mate :'(
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Still thinking over what next move is . The problem is, & has been right from the start, is that with the engine running, I cannot actually see where the leak is occuring .
One last discription of what I can see: With the front of the car up on drive up ramps, engine running, from underneath looking with an inspection lamp . Oil is showing in a bubbling & dropplet fashion at a 1 o'clock position above from the oil filter & crank sensor on the block casting.
This is in the area of the exhaust manifold & cannot see clearly where it is coming from as silver heat shields are there. From there it runs down the engine block & drips off the 2 torx bolts under the bell housing. Most oil leaks from omegas drip from these 2 bolts as they are the lowest point .
When car is off of ramps & on ground the oil seems to show more on the front of the engine below the pulleys on top of the front sump . starting on passenger side & within 10 miles has run to cover the complete front of the sump. but also still showing a smaller drip from the bellhousing area
My leak must be occuring high up on the engine somewhere as the first visable sign is as explained above (under rear of exhaust manifold)
Thought of the 2 oil feed pipes themselves leaking somewhere behind the engine but there does not seem to be any oil running down these towards where the pipes terminate by the oil filter .
Yet another stripdown will show if oil is laying in the V below the inlet bridge & if so leak must be around the oil cooler area as oil would not end up there from a lower position leak .
As said above the frustrating thing is I cannot see where it is starting from .
Any help or suggestions at all would be great guys , but guess we have exhausted most options :'( :'( :'( :'(
TIA Al :y
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I assume since you have fitted the new banjo bolts / "0" ring crush washers to the oil cooler feeds and put it all back together you havne,t established if this oil leak is from the same place as before?
Think best course of action is to take all bits off so you can see back to the oil cooler pipes and see if the oil is still wher it was before the work. If it is the only logical place for oil to be leaking there is associated with the oil cooler or its feed pipes.
At the moment we are just assuming it is "Still " leaking ..need to eliminate each place 1 at a time.
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Still thinking over what next move is . The problem is, & has been right from the start, is that with the engine running, I cannot actually see where the leak is occuring .
One last discription of what I can see: With the front of the car up on drive up ramps, engine running, from underneath looking with an inspection lamp . Oil is showing in a bubbling & dropplet fashion at a 1 o'clock position above from the oil filter & crank sensor on the block casting.
This is in the area of the exhaust manifold & cannot see clearly where it is coming from as silver heat shields are there. From there it runs down the engine block & drips off the 2 torx bolts under the bell housing. Most oil leaks from omegas drip from these 2 bolts as they are the lowest point .
When car is off of ramps & on ground the oil seems to show more on the front of the engine below the pulleys on top of the front sump . starting on passenger side & within 10 miles has run to cover the complete front of the sump. but also still showing a smaller drip from the bellhousing area
My leak must be occuring high up on the engine somewhere as the first visable sign is as explained above (under rear of exhaust manifold)
Thought of the 2 oil feed pipes themselves leaking somewhere behind the engine but there does not seem to be any oil running down these towards where the pipes terminate by the oil filter .
Yet another stripdown will show if oil is laying in the V below the inlet bridge & if so leak must be around the oil cooler area as oil would not end up there from a lower position leak .
As said above the frustrating thing is I cannot see where it is starting from .
Any help or suggestions at all would be great guys , but guess we have exhausted most options :'( :'( :'( :'(
TIA Al :y
Hope I am wrong but IIRC the oil feed to the cylinder head is in the rear corner of the head gasket (so in that general area)
Alternatively the 'new' oil cooler may have a manufacturing defect (maybe the thread wasn't tapped deep enough so even the correct bolt bottoms before clamping the banjo tight or the casting is porous)
Or the banjo to pipe joint has been stressed to the point where it has started leaking.
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Still thinking over what next move is . The problem is, & has been right from the start, is that with the engine running, I cannot actually see where the leak is occuring .
One last discription of what I can see: With the front of the car up on drive up ramps, engine running, from underneath looking with an inspection lamp . Oil is showing in a bubbling & dropplet fashion at a 1 o'clock position above from the oil filter & crank sensor on the block casting.
This is in the area of the exhaust manifold & cannot see clearly where it is coming from as silver heat shields are there. From there it runs down the engine block & drips off the 2 torx bolts under the bell housing. Most oil leaks from omegas drip from these 2 bolts as they are the lowest point .
When car is off of ramps & on ground the oil seems to show more on the front of the engine below the pulleys on top of the front sump . starting on passenger side & within 10 miles has run to cover the complete front of the sump. but also still showing a smaller drip from the bellhousing area
My leak must be occuring high up on the engine somewhere as the first visable sign is as explained above (under rear of exhaust manifold)
Thought of the 2 oil feed pipes themselves leaking somewhere behind the engine but there does not seem to be any oil running down these towards where the pipes terminate by the oil filter .
Yet another stripdown will show if oil is laying in the V below the inlet bridge & if so leak must be around the oil cooler area as oil would not end up there from a lower position leak .
As said above the frustrating thing is I cannot see where it is starting from .
Any help or suggestions at all would be great guys , but guess we have exhausted most options :'( :'( :'( :'(
TIA Al :y
Hope I am wrong but IIRC the oil feed to the cylinder head is in the rear corner of the head gasket (so in that general area)
Alternatively the 'new' oil cooler may have a manufacturing defect (maybe the thread wasn't tapped deep enough so even the correct bolt bottoms before clamping the banjo tight or the casting is porous)
Or the banjo to pipe joint has been stressed to the point where it has started leaking.
i seem to remember mentioning that via a pm to Al at the start of the saga, i thought it a possibility but unlikely tbh.
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the oil feed to the cylinder head is now a real possibility :( :( it looks like that area as first appearance of oil is right by No. 6 cylinder head to block joint just below the exhaust
However oil would not lay in the v around the oil cooler plate would it ?
I am going to try & strip down sometime this week to see if any oil is laying in the V again .
To give everyone an idea of how much oil is being lost , after running car for 20 mins there is a pool of oil 100mm across on the floor. so quite a big one , :'( :'( I would not attempt to use the car as it is
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there is another oilway i believe, middle,top of head, the hole that is kicked out.
(http://i393.photobucket.com/albums/pp16/jonthenut_bucket/25042012007.jpg)
jon
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the oil feed to the cylinder head is now a real possibility :( :( it looks like that area as first appearance of oil is right by No. 6 cylinder head to block joint just below the exhaust
However oil would not lay in the v around the oil cooler plate would it ?
I am going to try & strip down sometime this week to see if any oil is laying in the V again .
To give everyone an idea of how much oil is being lost , after running car for 20 mins there is a pool of oil 100mm across on the floor. so quite a big one , :'( :'( I would not attempt to use the car as it is
I cannot imagine how it could get on top of the oil cooler plate :-\ but I can see how it might sit in the area of the cover plate to block seal.
Many years ago I had a weeping banjo oil feed to the cylinder head on my Royal Enfield. I nipped it up, at the motorway services, and set off again. After two miles it had pumped nearly all the oil out of the sump and over my right foot because the pipe had fractured >:( wouldn't surprise me if the same has happened here.
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I suppose if both oil feed pipes were removed together that would ease the problem of the pipe clamp at the back of the block.
That might be the next course of action really...undo the oil feeds at the oil cooler end and at the block by the oil filter and try and remove them both for a really thorough look.Not sure if they could be tested for leaks but sure if the pipe/joint had a fracture it would be pretty visual.
Still need to be sure that oil is sitting in the hollow of the oil cooler bolt area first though as if thats where oil is sitting I also can,t image how it could be leaking from head/block joint
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Got a spare cooler pipe here Al. PM sent. :y
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You got PMs Al ;)
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Thanks guys, ( Amba, dbug, Andy H, The Red Baron & Albitz ) for the recent input.
Been working this weekend so no progress on the Mig.
I need to find if oil is around the oil cooler plate AGAIN ! so when I can pull it apart I will let you guys know.
Won't be on it tomorrow evening though ( My birthday :D ) Swmbo's taking me out for din din's. For my present I've asked her for a Vauxhall /GM fully comprehensive oil leak stopper kit . .... Large size ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
Probably get on it Tuesday evening ::) ::) ::)
Regards, Al :y
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anymore news on this Al?. :)
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anymore news on this Al?. :)
hi Jon, I'm looking for a length of rope & a high tree ;D ;D ;D
Seriously though, Been really busy work wise (no extra money.. . . just loadsa extra work) but have stripped down as far as inlet bridge off.
Will post up a new " part 2 " thread on the leak tomorrow . . to knacker*d & stressed tonight :( :( :( :(
but Oil pipes & unions all OK . . not leaking . oil still leaking into v though. But have found a possible leak source :-[ :-[ :-[
regards, Al :y
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anymore news on this Al?. :)
hi Jon, I'm looking for a length of rope & a high tree ;D ;D ;D
Seriously though, Been really busy work wise (no extra money.. . . just loadsa extra work) but have stripped down as far as inlet bridge off.
Will post up a new " part 2 " thread on the leak tomorrow . . to knacker*d & stressed tonight :( :( :( :(
but Oil pipes & unions all OK . . not leaking . oil still leaking into v though. But have found a possible leak source :-[ :-[ :-[
regards, Al :y
ok. waiting with baited breath. ::)
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anymore news on this Al?. :)
hi Jon, I'm looking for a length of rope & a high tree ;D ;D ;D
Seriously though, Been really busy work wise (no extra money.. . . just loadsa extra work) but have stripped down as far as inlet bridge off.
Will post up a new " part 2 " thread on the leak tomorrow . . to knacker*d & stressed tonight :( :( :( :(
but Oil pipes & unions all OK . . not leaking . oil still leaking into v though. But have found a possible leak source :-[ :-[ :-[
regards, Al :y
ok. waiting with baited breath. ::)
In view of my PMs - likewise Al :y