Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Car Chat => Topic started by: MaxV6 on 29 June 2012, 11:30:27
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Okay, we have a ghost in the machine on our daughter's Mk4 astra ......
clearly i'm going to need to beer token persuade someone with a tech2 to come and look at it,.....
it started cutting out on my daughter while running, so needed attention, we read codes when she had to be recovered by green flag......
, and initially it said EGR and absolute barometric pressure in manifold... then in the garage, it came up with throttle position sensor fault....
EGR, changed that, still iffy, but different codes....
then MAF... changed...... code changed again.....
then Cam sensor.... changed.... ran okay for 10 minutes, then hiccuped and EM light came back on, and code changed again.....
this is getting bloody stupid....
HELP?????
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Oh, and it has a new battery as well....... !!!
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Oh, and it has a new battery as well....... !!!
mrk4 is ecotec engine, they use the same engine as 2.0l engine, which mod is is it 1.8 2.0 2.2?
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1.6 SE
(2001 8 valve 1.6 Auto Astra Envoy, )
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1.6 SE
(2001 8 valve 1.6 Auto Astra Envoy, )
oh all one's ive seen have eco tec type engine, but it dose sound like cam sensor fault, can throw up randam codes, dose engine still go into limp mode?
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Willy nilly part changing, never good.!
So, you say its a MAF based setup yet it throws a MAP type fault code, alarm bells are ringing for me!
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Err , to be honest Mark, i may have got the precise lettering wrong.... whatever it is, it's the airflow sensor on the inlet side....
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Mk4's can suffer from bad earth connections in an around the engine. cheap and free to do. Diagnostic machines do not always offer the best results ::) in fact on occasions can be downright wrong >:( Proper tech 2 on son.s Astra 2.0 SRi said EGR changed no different. Then it said something else I cant remember it was replaced and guess what no difference. Finally in desparation I drove it for a week to get my years of amatuer mechanics to feel for the problem. One old CTS fitted and bingo all working nicely again. Tech 2 did not even mention CTS
This was not an amatuer using the tech2 either. If it had been me using it I could understand, sometimes you just need to hear it and drive it to realise what is happening.
Edit: CTS coolant temparature sensor.
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Tech 2 is a tool, it gives access to symptom information and nothing else, it does not give a definative diagnosis :y
If tech 2 was used and the diagnosis was wrong then its operator error and nothing else :y
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most codes given by code readers are irrelevant as those codes are the end result..
ignition and fuel components are also beyond their scope..
and sometimes there are no codes stored for the faulty sensor ;D
so back to will nilly part changing ;D :y
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the garage (local non franchised) used generic code reader , not proper tech 2,
i thought perhaps being able to read live data on the right machine, might give a clue,
likewise our resident tech 2 equipped chaps have vast experience in DIY mechanics that i lack, or more precisely, i lack recent up to date experience, the last time i even thought I knew what the hell i was doing was on essex V6 lumps and Pintos . nigh on 30 years ago.... (although actually, also the straight 6 sennie was not unfamiliar territory in some respects.... )
I understand basic principles, but lack the experience of being able to "get a feel" for what ails it.... from my perspective , even if it was running perfect , it would still sound and feel like it was missing.... being 2 cylinders short of being a proper engine....
and i'm not well equipped with mechanicky tools..... anything you like for electronics, building , luthiery , but spanners and sockets and stuff are not amongst my list of "fully equipped" things.... a few basics, that's it....
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Agree with previous comments made about earthing -
In the end we put another earthing strip in the engine connected one side to the top of the shock area and the other into a relay box.
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Mk4's can suffer from bad earth connections in an around the engine. cheap and free to do. Diagnostic machines do not always offer the best results ::) in fact on occasions can be downright wrong >:( Proper tech 2 on son.s Astra 2.0 SRi said EGR changed no different. Then it said something else I cant remember it was replaced and guess what no difference. Finally in desparation I drove it for a week to get my years of amatuer mechanics to feel for the problem. One old CTS fitted and bingo all working nicely again. Tech 2 did not even mention CTS
This was not an amatuer using the tech2 either. If it had been me using it I could understand, sometimes you just need to hear it and drive it to realise what is happening.
Edit: CTS coolant temparature sensor.
As Mr DTM says, any idiot can plug in a machine and read a code, and then change a part based on that part being mentioned in the fault code.
The skill is interpreating the codes and live data to ascertain what could be causing the symptoms BEFORE changing any parts.
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Having got a list of faults , and the order they came in , it appears to be a choice between earthing issues or ECU failure , or a combination of them , apparently there's some question of earth breakdown in the ECU , I believe a direct good earth to a specific pin in the ECU is a possible fix , already changed CTS
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it started cutting out while running...
...it appears to be a choice between earthing issues or ECU failure...
Done a few Astras now for different customers, symptoms are the car will usually be o.k. when first started but as it warms up it will cut out, you can then confirm ECU failure by wiggling gently applying pressure to the wiring connectors on the ECU whilst attempting to start, that usually allows the car to be started.
I use a company in Cannock to repair failed Vx. e.c.u.'s but it costs around £200.
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just been looking around and there was a few problems witht ecu's on them with water getting in them, abs light flashing speedo failing the list go's on, says the rubber seals just fail on them and water gets in, says on vx site that should replace the seals and the ecu. some models lights stop working and dash. and this is just faults reported.
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says on vx site that should replace the seals and the ecu.
Where?
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says on vx site that should replace the seals and the ecu.
Where?
vx astra club. sport club. vauxhall data files astra repairs.
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vauxhall data files astra repairs.
Can you provide a ref, as I can't find it :)
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vauxhall data files astra repairs.
Can you provide a ref, as I can't find it :)
you should find the vauxhall astra data files repairs its on the garage site and manufacture, its on there data list you will need to log in with your details. look under 2001- 2005 astra report logs. other sites you need to log into as well, cannot link to this site cannot even copy and paste nothing comes up on here or in note pad so think its locked
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vauxhall data files astra repairs.
Can you provide a ref, as I can't find it :)
you should find the vauxhall astra data files repairs its on the garage site and manufacture, its on there data list you will need to log in with your details. look under 2001- 2005 astra report logs. other sites you need to log into as well, cannot link to this site cannot even copy and paste nothing comes up on here or in note pad so think its locked
also its in german not english will need transater if you dont know german :)
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vauxhall data files astra repairs.
Can you provide a ref, as I can't find it :)
you should find the vauxhall astra data files repairs its on the garage site and manufacture, its on there data list you will need to log in with your details. look under 2001- 2005 astra report logs. other sites you need to log into as well, cannot link to this site cannot even copy and paste nothing comes up on here or in note pad so think its locked
also its in german not english will need transater if you dont know german :)
just been looking more into it and says egr fail and wiring to ecu.
shell petrol seam to sort out most problems ( this is custumers report after fault was not fixed about 30 custermers) no fault code stored
coil pack and wiring faults with single misfire.
random fault codes, garage reports that taking off battery from an hour has help with the fault codes when battery is refitted and fully charged. and list pointed to egr fault and ecu wiring.
another one was vibration effecting the ecu.
evpa vale sticking.
ect circuit fail in ecu.
engine temp sensor and wiring.
and ecu failed, and sent to repair and found no faults with it, put back on and then there is no faults stored.
ecu rubber seal and corroded pins on plug.
ecu turning off injectors, (tec) say ecu thinking they are cloged up or low fuel turning them off.
fuel sensor incorrect signal faulty wires.
low fuel level misfire, ( garage tec advied not to run on red line, and keep fuel level above this) also this caused multiple cylinder misfire.
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vauxhall data files astra repairs.
Can you provide a ref, as I can't find it :)
you should find the vauxhall astra data files repairs its on the garage site and manufacture, its on there data list you will need to log in with your details. look under 2001- 2005 astra report logs. other sites you need to log into as well, cannot link to this site cannot even copy and paste nothing comes up on here or in note pad so think its locked
I have access to GM's technical library. A doc ref will do. Thanks.
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vauxhall data files astra repairs.
Can you provide a ref, as I can't find it :)
you should find the vauxhall astra data files repairs its on the garage site and manufacture, its on there data list you will need to log in with your details. look under 2001- 2005 astra report logs. other sites you need to log into as well, cannot link to this site cannot even copy and paste nothing comes up on here or in note pad so think its locked
I have access to GM's technical library. A doc ref will do. Thanks.
has no ref number its dates 2001-2005. then another page 2005-2010 date and garage code is only. fault enquiry page.
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vauxhall data files astra repairs.
Can you provide a ref, as I can't find it :)
you should find the vauxhall astra data files repairs its on the garage site and manufacture, its on there data list you will need to log in with your details. look under 2001- 2005 astra report logs. other sites you need to log into as well, cannot link to this site cannot even copy and paste nothing comes up on here or in note pad so think its locked
I have access to GM's technical library. A doc ref will do. Thanks.
has no ref number its dates 2001-2005. then another page 2005-2010 date and garage code is only. fault enquiry page.
Is it a GM doc?
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vauxhall data files astra repairs.
Can you provide a ref, as I can't find it :)
you should find the vauxhall astra data files repairs its on the garage site and manufacture, its on there data list you will need to log in with your details. look under 2001- 2005 astra report logs. other sites you need to log into as well, cannot link to this site cannot even copy and paste nothing comes up on here or in note pad so think its locked
I have access to GM's technical library. A doc ref will do. Thanks.
has no ref number its dates 2001-2005. then another page 2005-2010 date and garage code is only. fault enquiry page.
Is it a GM doc?
think its a systerm linc doc its dose not use explora it use the softwear from a bit of kit i picked up, screen on it is damaged so have to use it on my pc with it pluged in, has account loged in it. dont know how old it is but works on pc cannot get a new screen for it as been well used and has no info on back bar for security code. only seams to cover from 2000. have tryed downloading in pdf but keeps asking for password but dont know the pasword.
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So its not a GM doc then...
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Hmm seems likely to be ECU related , looking in to replacements..... rather ouch.
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apparently there's a Vx ECU wizard somewhere around Milton Keynes..... working from home/out of his shed/garage , has anyone encountered such chap and have his contact details??
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Hmm seems likely to be ECU related ,
How have you confirmed this?
apparently there's a Vx ECU wizard somewhere around Milton Keynes..... working from home/out of his shed/garage , has anyone encountered such chap and have his contact details??
This is who I use, they are quite a large outfit...
http://www.atpelectronics.co.uk/
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well, i've run additional Earth straps to the Engine block, and the mounting point for the ECU , cleaned up the back of the ECU mountings to ensure good contact..... made no odds...... and a lot of reading of similar experiences by 16SE engined astra owners , all of whom, almost without exception have cured the almost precise symptoms we have, by getting a replacement ECU .... i'm tempted to look further in to it, as there have been some reports of pin faults on the connectors, and another of an ecu sourced 5v supply to sensors failing.... i'm also still pondering actually buying a haynes book of lies for the thing.... and tracing as much wiring as i can to eliminate the possibility that a 5v to earth short somewhere else in the system isn't causing this....
while on the subject, i gather i need to get ignition lock/immobiliser/key set up as well as the ECU, or can i get an ECU and persuade TB to tech2 it?
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apparently there's a Vx ECU wizard somewhere around Milton Keynes..... working from home/out of his shed/garage , has anyone encountered such chap and have his contact details??
Might be worth trying the usual suspects for ABS ECU failure too - BA Reman and ECUTesting.
Before that, though.. Bear in mind that the sensor part of the engine loom carries a ground connection and often a +5V reference that is common to many devices. If that has got caught somewhere and the wiring damaged (like in the classic trapping of the knock sensor wire under the aux belt tensioner on an Omega) or the 5V line is being dragged down by a faulty device it could cause a fault that looks like multiple failures when in fact it's just one.
I think I'd check all these connections are sound and visibly inspect the loom for its' whole length before condemning the ECU.
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Max,
I am based in Reading for a few weeks, but on Friday I'm going home to Gloucestershire.
Rather than go my usual M4 / A419 route, I could do A34 to Oxford and then A40 home?
All I have with me is a basic code reader and resetter...
I owned a 1.6 16V 51 plate Astra, and had murders with it initially, but I got it right in the end... :y
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For what it's worth, I'll eat my hat if it's an ECU failure...
We need to ascertain a few basics..
Firstly live data. What are maf / coolant temp / TPS... etc etc all doing in realtime
Condition of spark plugs and service items/history
I've not had an 8v Astra, guessing it's not DBW, so will have an ICV? If so, what's this like, along with throttle body, small breathers, and of course crankcase breathers?
Timing belt within it's schedule? no potential for it to have slipped and upset timing?
Any air leaks causing Hunting?
What's it like with MAF unplugged?
:y
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We had all these problems with Master Vamps Astra, lots of advice on here, including support from Mark, but when Master Vamps told me it was using oil, got rid pretty quick and this all started with codes saying EGR fault......
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James, Fully serviced 4 months ago (well i paid for one.... lets put it like that, but not happy with colour of oil to be honest) , am i right in thinking that if it has 2 throttle position sensors, one on the pedal set, and one on the injector set, it IS DBW? or is that just a misunderstanding?
coolant temp behaves, (had a new CTS and Stat 4 months ago)
EGR just replaced last week with Vx original part (and gasket)
cam belt changed 4 months ago.
coolant , changed 4 months ago
water pump changed 4 months ago
etc etc.... it was a little bit unloved when we got in , had a mostly full service history, but seemed not have been done for 2 years, but then had only covered about 8000 miles in those two years.... so i had it done top to bottom,
however, the EML was resolutely on.... came up as EGR, so i had the EGR blanked, and TB tried to tell it to ignore the EGR, but it seems the auto version does;t have the option to ignore the EGR in the management set up. the manual version latest firmware actually does this as default.... but not so the auto.
I'd be ecstatic and very grateful to see you James..... but be warned, we have no cover as such, the garage is absolutely stuffed full of things the size of small cars, that aren;t small cars.....
i'll have to go read the codes via pedal trick again tomorrow, as i've lost the list..... I did it yesterday and wrote them down...... :(
what's not so secretly annoying me is that this is soaking up time and money, that i'd much rather be spending on my Mv6 !!!
in the last week, it's also had a trial with a new cam sensor, and new airflow sensor, neither of which seemingly made any difference..... (so the garage put the old ones back on, again with no change, so they didn't have to charge me for the parts that didn't make any difference.... and didn't charge me for the labour either..... fair dos really....
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if i read the codes right
034
022
154
010
514
would these be the same as the codes for omega ? so i can look them up?
(my reading assumes that 10 flashes = start of code, then if three sets of flashes = 3 digits , xxx, 2 sets = 0xx 1 set = 0x0 ) then 10 flashes to end code.
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having reminded myself how to read codes, and looked at a list of them, i'm off to do it again... the last one does;lt appear on the lists i've seen..... maybe i've read it wrong.... and i'll double check the number of 0's
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You have a PM which may help. :y
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thanks Kev
revised, "now i can read the buggers" version of the codes stored , in the order they come up in.
0340 cam sensor incorrect signal
0220 throttle position sensor 2 voltage high or low
1550 limp mode active
0105 MAP sensor voltage High or Low
1405 EGR Sensor Low or High.
listed terminals concerned
EGR 21,28,30,62 (x72)
MAP 26,45,63 (x72)
TPS 9,12,13,14,29,46 (x72)
CSS 23,29,30 (x72)
haven't yet worked out the meaning of (x72) , but other than that the only common terminal is 30 for EGR and CamShaft Sensor.
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to note that the garage changed the MAP and Cam sensors and it made no odds...
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also, with regard to TPS, Andy said that their entire group had never sold though either unit (engine end or pedal end) as a spare , so it was not all that likely....
so, it would appear, that having changed all the sensors bar the TPS, (which is eye waveringly expensive to do as it's and entire throttle body assembly , and together with the pedal assembly, comes to almost half the value of the car) that the same fault remains.
so we're looking at a wiring fault.... or an ECU fault..
does my thinking make sense?
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i can see some potential links in the wiring diagram that might explain some , but not all codes....
and where i thought there might be a component change potential, i have no code...
if i knew what the hell was supposed to be carried on these wires, and what the ecu was doing with those contacts (sending +5v, expecting to see a return, or switching a ground, or whatever the hell else it might be doing.... ) i might be able to make more educated conclusions....
there appears to be some sort of link between intake air temperature sensor, (no code stored for that) Throttle position, cam sensor and EGR
if as the diagram implies, pin 29 of the ecu sends 5v , and the sensors return a partial voltage as their input to ECU, then if the 5V supply is dropped, Air intake temp, Cam sensor, (and as a result EGR) and throttle position would all be affected
except i have no Air intake temp fault code, unless that's what the MAP is moaning about? or does that imply a loom break between that sensor and the rest of them? if so, where the hell do i find it?
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Hi Max,
X71 and X72 are the designations for the 2 multi way connectors on the ECU.
Whilst the sensors mainly have dedicated pins, they will be connected internally (i.e. they will have a common ground and, where applicable, 5V) I note that there are fault codes related to the 5V supplies being hi/low though.
I'd say most of the 3 wire sensors probably have a 5V, signal and ground. The exception might be the cam sensor, which might gets a high frequency feed to energise it, and the ECU monitors the amplitude of the returning signal.
That signal on Pin 29 does look suspicious, though. I wouldn't mind betting it's a ground connection, and if it goes adrift, there's your cam sensor and throttle position problem. Time to get the AVO out?
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yeah, and if you note there's a link between cam sensor and EGR on either a return or a feed, if the other side of the cam sensor is being docked about with, it's possible that this is then not showing the correct range of values , thus the EGR fault....
none of this relates to the MAP as far as i can tell, except possibly on an internal link inside the ECU.
i've no problem using the multimeter, once i know what i'm looking for,..... it's making sense of it afterwards that's bugging me.... what i could really use is a pin out listing of the ecu's connections, in terms of expected signal , what's a switched earth, what's 5v , what's something else like an HF signal....
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I'll have a look later and see if I can deduce that from the diag procedures in TIS.
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i'd be eternally grateful old bean ...... :y (well, i am already, but it would more so even..... :D )
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James, I think you may need to find some seasoning for your hat mate.
1) ecu failure is apparently common on this engine. (just my luck)
2) having removed ecu, tested the circuits connected to Pin 29 on the multipin connector, as far as i can tell they're all intact.... and with ECU out, there's no link back to ground on the bit i could get to,
i've seen a few posts here and there, from unknown, untrusted sources suggesting adding a direct earth on to that circuit, . which as far as i can tell means breaking open the multi pin connector (done it once to find pin 29) and splicing in a direct feed, ..... very tight, but i reckon just barely do-able.
or unwinding the loom wrap, finding the right piece of wire (plain brown, not particularly unique.... ) and doing it there....
probably doing it as close to the ecu as possible .
however, if they're wrong, and that is a +5v feed, i fail to see how it helps, and it may do more harm.
if i knew how the ecu feeds and returns to those sensors, what criteria it is using to acquire data , and how they're configured, i could decide between breaking in to circuit and adding a 5v supply, or piggy backing it on to another circuit, or adding an earth as rumour suggests.
or just forking out for an ecu and tech2 session.
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I would be very surprised if pin 29 weren't a ground signal. Check the voltage there with a mutlimeter.
If the ground connection inside the ECU has just come adrift from that pin it's worth trying a bodge, IMHO.
For a quick test, just scotchlock it to one of the other brown wires from the ECU a little further up the loom.
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now go wash your keyboard, you naughty man,.... scotch lock...... EUUUUWWWWWWWW ;)
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I would be very surprised if pin 29 weren't a ground signal. Check the voltage there with a mutlimeter.
If the ground connection inside the ECU has just come adrift from that pin it's worth trying a bodge, IMHO.
For a quick test, just scotchlock it to one of the other brown wires from the ECU a little further up the loom.
:y
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i figure i may as well..... since it's currently buggered anyhow..... if i do manage to make it worse.... it can;t be THAT much worse.... might drop a slow blow fuse in line.... any idea of current load Kev?
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Theres a relay box in the top right hand side of the engine - i will try to get a pic of what was done to pops astra for clarification.
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that would be handy... the more info the better.....
was going to do it this morning, but not well..... dodgy pizza i suspect....
it's also pissing with rain..... which makes me even less keen...
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I'll try and do this weekend
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Does the car still start?
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yes, runs lumpy as hell (IMHO bearing in mind i've not owned anything with less than 6 cylinders for 25 years) , then dies when it starts to get warm.
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yes, runs lumpy as hell (IMHO bearing in mind i've not owned anything with less than 6 cylinders for 25 years) , then dies when it starts to get warm.
...if it refuses to restart until it's cold then it sounds like an internal fault with the e.c.u.
Is the e.c.u. bolted to the cylinder head or on the inlet manifold? If so then get someone to attempt to restart the engine whilst you gently wiggle the wiring connectors at the e.c.u. If the engine does restart then this does point towards 'loose connections' within the e.c.u.
I know it's not the most technical way to diagnose the problem but I have seen this issue on several Vauxhalls that have the e.c.u. mounted on the engine.
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yes, runs lumpy as hell (IMHO bearing in mind i've not owned anything with less than 6 cylinders for 25 years) , then dies when it starts to get warm.
...if it refuses to restart until it's cold then it sounds like an internal fault with the e.c.u.
Is the e.c.u. bolted to the cylinder head or on the inlet manifold? If so then get someone to attempt to restart the engine whilst you gently wiggle the wiring connectors at the e.c.u. If the engine does restart then this does point towards 'loose connections' within the e.c.u.
I know it's not the most technical way to diagnose the problem but I have seen this issue on several Vauxhalls that have the e.c.u. mounted on the engine.
Agreed,I've seen the same,god knows why they bolt the ECU to a vibration and heat source :-\
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well, i've connected pin 29 to earth, as well as earthing the ecu casing.... ran beautifully for about 5 minutes, then bingo.... back to square 1
same set of codes generated.....
it restarts, but lumpy and unhappy.... mind you it's not that warm yet....
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looking again at the wiring diagrams, and making some assumptive guesses,
here's the thinking....
the cable colour coding system seems consistent, as far as i can tell,
Brown = POSSIBLY A ground return , possibly switched.
Black+white = POSSIBLY a signal feed, implication is a 5v feed, as that seems to being fed to one of the more clearly labelled sensors (whatever the hell it is on the throttle body just immediately behind the ECU)
it would appear that some of the devices also have individually colour coded returns to the ECU.
that being the case....
since we've show that the ground connection makes no difference, it follows that it's likely the other side, the source connection,
as they're all colour coded the same, one might conclude that the connections are shared internally to the same source output....
so.... would it then make sense to inject a 5v source ?? (
or do i just give up and wait until i can afford to get a specialist to fit a new ECU (this car is her transport to work and back, she cannot do the journey TO work on the bus , as they don't run early enough from our village to get her to work.... getting home is no problem,.... thus, i'm having to get up at 7 am to get her to work myself, since i generally work till 3 am, i'm not flipping happy about it.... )
the other possibility , is that this brown cable from pin29 is the +5v rail, but that it is still knackered internally, so my grounding it has not made any difference.
what's bothering me is that I'd normally use black cable to indicate an earth/return, and brown/red to indicate a +ve supply
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I'd normally use black cable to indicate an earth/return, and brown/red to indicate a +ve supply
on Vauxhalls brown wires are always earths, plain black wires are usually +12v...
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what's bothering me is that I'd normally use black cable to indicate an earth/return, and brown/red to indicate a +ve supply
Now there's a man who is used to Lucas wiring!
Frustratingly DIN wiring codes are totally different, and in the case of earths/lives completely opposite.
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I know there are some very talented people on OOF, but there are also some very useful people here http://www.astraownersclub.com/vb/
There is a rather strong modifying element on there but all site have there problems ::) If you have not already found it it may just give some additional direction.
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i've been and registered at just about every such forum , and read every thread i can find dealing with this set of error codes, and closely related ones, and so on.... there seem to be only 3-4 end results
1) new ECU fixes issue
2) grounding a contact fixes issue just very rarely.
3) bridging a 5v supply from another set of sensors occasionally works short term.
4) car gets scrapped coz these days a full garage fit ECU costs about the same as replacing the car.....
the most common answer is No1.... which irks me quite a bit....
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Hope this works
http://s369.photobucket.com/albums/oo140/Radar_07/ASTA/ (http://s369.photobucket.com/albums/oo140/Radar_07/ASTA/)
- See black wire with yellow top connected to bodywork (near top of shock in engine bay).
- Feed the black wire into rectangular box to left of ecu following existing loom wires
- Open the top of the rectangualr box and remove the nearest relays (2 mauve ones) - this will give easier access to the rearmost mauve relay
- Feed the black wire into the blue connector and put the red wire in the middle bottom hole as per picture. You can see another wire there so hopefully that helps with set up as the AA man did it and i'm not sure what was there before
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thanks matey, i'll give it a go in the morning
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I swear I'm gonna start using 'caps lock' on this Forum!
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sorry Brik, not ignoring you.... the ECU itself is mounted on the Inlet assembly , bloody stupid place for it IMHO as well.....
have been through as much as i practicable ,
If i reset the ECU, (disconnect it for 30 seconds and then plug it back in.... to clear the codes, it's basically sometimes, but not always, as soon as the "choke" comes off , but otherwise as the engine warms up, there's like a little hiccup after it's been running a while nicely,. (shortest about 2 minutes, longest about 10 minutes) and the EML comes on , and limp mode is engaged, and if it idles at all it's lumpy, and prone to cutting out as the revs drop after throttle use.... or if the throttle is left unattended .....