Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: bigfoot55 on 03 July 2012, 15:57:36
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Hi, been fitting new cambelt & kit to 3.0 v6 , all going ok following the dvd now at the tensioner stage . every time i tension it to the upper edge on the tension guide then rotate camshafts 360 the tensioner mark has moved to the middle line, i know it loads and unloads on the way round, tried a few times and seems to keep slipping back a bit, any help please, just worried it will slip back further in use.
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So you have put the tension on enough to get the line phone with the edge of the block. Tighten with a spanned enough so it does not move. Put the Allen Key into the hole then torque up the nut whilst holding the Allen Key still.
Is the spring washer the same as the one you removed? I have seen some that don't seem to be right.
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Hi, thanks for quick reply , just checked nut & washer is same as one removed just a plain washer, torqued to 20nm. was genuine gm kit and have replaced with gm .
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Hi, thanks for quick reply , just checked nut & washer is same as one removed just a plain washer, torqued to 20nm. was genuine gm kit and have replaced with gm .
They aren't a plain flat washer though mate, they are spring steal.. To look at look like a wavey flat washer if that makes sense. If you using a flat washer that could be your problem..
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Hi darth, yes you where right washer is a bit wavey, out of desperation tried the washer from the old kit but still did the same, iam holding the tensioner on with the allen key when torqueing up
and its spot on the edge as in the dvd , then i rotate on the crank one turn on the camshafts and then line has dropped to almost the centre line on the tensioner, what am i doing wrong so frustrating to get this far and making a mess of this bit. :D
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Is everything else aligned and torqued up?
How about tensioning 5mm beyond the top of the indicator? Will it then fall back to be in line with the top of the indicator?
Also how are you adjusting tension? Is the crank lock tool fitted or not? I'm guessing that if the crank lock is fitted it is holding the belt back slightly so tension is not perfect
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Hi jonathanh, everthing else is lined up and torqued up, will try the extra 5mm idea, i was adjusting the tension with an allen key in the tensioner pulley then tighting the 13mm nut, yes using crank lock tool do you think that is giving me a false setting, is there any benefit from torqueing it more that 20nm. should the tension marks line up exactly where i set them after one turn or does it settle .
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I would not over tighten the nut!
thinking about this a little more there seems to be two possibilities
1) the tensioner is slipping back
2) the belt has some slack in somewhere
so to see if it is 1, mark the position of the nut on the tensioner to see if, after you turn the engine by hand the lucking nut has moved versus the tensioner. My guess is that you can eliminate the tensioner moving
second I would suggest trying to adjust the tension without the crank lock tool fitted. If you are worried about this pot in the cam locks to make sure that if you completely let go of tension on the belt, the cranks will not fly ouf out of alignment
I'm guessing here but it may be that the belt run from the cams down over the idler to the crank is a little slack, causing you this problem. A related question - did you find it eay or difficult to get the belt on the crank pulley. If i recall correctly the video shows backing the crank off by 15 deg to help get the belt on. the first time I did my belt I got it 1 tooth out because I forgot this and again I'm guessing but this may be your problem
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From what I have found when you have fitted the belt too tightly around the bottom right idled,then also the came there is to much slack around the tension too get any tension on... In my experience if you work from the crank, then around anti clockwise, the belt should just go over the tensioner. If it goes over easy its wrong, if it wont go over is also wrong.
If you do have the wavey washer you have the right one :y
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Hi, ok got the tensioner mark to stay in the right place, by not using the crank lock tool, next question how much should the tensioner load and unload on the way round should it move from one end stop to the other or just move up & down in the middle, reason i ask on the dvd it seem to move right from one end to the other mine moves up & down but not making it to the high tension stop. still wrong or ok ?
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Hi, ok got the tensioner mark to stay in the right place, by not using the crank lock tool, next question how much should the tensioner load and unload on the way round should it move from one end stop to the other or just move up & down in the middle, reason i ask on the dvd it seem to move right from one end to the other mine moves up & down but not making it to the high tension stop. still wrong or ok ?
I am not following you here mate. Take a few photos and post them up :y
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Hi darth, have set tensioner to the right place, when turning the engine over (with spanner ) watching the load and unload of the tensioner it goes from where set to fully load and back and forth between that section but does not go to the slack end at all , is that right, will try with photos if i can get the camera to work.
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and can you get the crank lock on now and the cam timing tool and is it perfectly lined/timed up? I'm a little concerned the belt is 1 tooth out
pic will help
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(http://i1055.photobucket.com/albums/s505/mills130/Picture094.jpg)(http://i1055.photobucket.com/albums/s505/mills130/Picture093.jpg)
(http://i1055.photobucket.com/albums/s505/mills130/Picture095.jpg)
sorry about the huge size photos could not seem to shrink them down.
picture one is where i set the tension,
picture two is the furthest it travels when fully loaded
picture three is the furthest it travels unloaded
does it look like normal operation for the tensioner. with crank lock on all cam timing marks align perfectly , just wanted to check that was normal operation for the tensioner before i put it all back together, thanks everyone for your help
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It looks ok to me but i've only done a couple of belts, let's await those more experienced than me.
What is clear is that the belt is always under tension so not going to jump
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Your first picture looks like you have the tension perfect for a brand new belt. Ok, so by hand using a e20 socket plus rachet turn the car over a few times, put on the crank lock, then lock it too the water pump. Fit in the cam lining up tool to make sure all four came are perfect. Then check where your tensioner is. If the same as in picture one, you have it perfect.
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update . turned over a good few times by hand, put crank lock back on checked cam timing & tensioner postion all spot on. car all back together and running now :) a genuine thank you to everyone who help, all take a bow. :y
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Well done mate :y job well done there :-*