Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Car Chat => Topic started by: maracus on 22 August 2012, 17:21:23
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A friend of mine has a xsara hdi 2002. A while back his car went in to limp mode with an "angry engine" light, I think all that was done was the code was cleared, it was fine for a week then done the same, he had it pointed out to him that "that buzzing" was his boost control solenoid failed, so that replaced and the code cleared again, a couple of weeks later brings us to present time and his car has just put that light on again, and gone oncemore into limp mode. Poor fella, I've known him since we were 5 and I can't help but feel people are ripping him off and trying to take him for a ride.
He can't remember what the code actually was before, only that it was boost related, and I can't test it with my reader as it's cheap, rubbish, and doesn't list anything French within the manufacturer options :( so to a point I can only go on guesswork for now, (not good I know) but ATM, I can see two possibilities..
1) the turbo is shot, just this don't seem right to me with the reputation of making good diesel engines that the French seem to hold, possible I know, but I can't help but think that the more likely problem is;
2) I have noticed when I looked the other week at his car (to find my code reader sucks) that a section of inlet that's plastic and seems to bolt onto some kind of throttle body assembly via two bolts has flex in it between the joint where the plastic meets the metal, seemingly enough to open a gap, boost escapes, and the management throws a paddy. So what I intend to do, is refit this part that's flexing, with a new o ring/ bead of silicone to see if it seals and stops the problem.
What I want to know is, can the code on these engines be cleared by disconnecting the battery for an hour, or are we simply screwed without an adequate reader?
And failing all that, are there known issues with these engines, or anything else to consider to lead us to the fault?
I appreciate Id best off look on a chitrun forum, but thought I'd ask here first to see if the vast knowledge and helpful generosity of the oof can shed light on this for me?
My knowledge of the details of the problem are minimal I'm sorry but Im going off what I can remember off the top of my head right now ::)
Cheers...
:y
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Some of the diesels i believe are variable vain turbos. If the turbo hoses go firm on giving it some revvs with no discernible leakage from the hoses, then over boost maybe occurring. Codes would help. If the boost valve has been changed, (code monkey routine) then the turbo actuator rod should be physically checked to make sure it moves.
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I did think of trying that but I couldnt even see the turbo!! Need to get the front of the car up and look from underneath to at least establish where it is to go in blind with my fingers!!
If it is seized, are they free-able? Or is it new turbo time?
I can't be sure but I have this image in my head that under sudden engine motions (such as into gear- floor it) is causing the engine to torque back and forth on it's mounts and pull the hose one way or the other and causing this gap to open.. Hence it would be apparently fine if revved while stationary under no load with the bonnet up. I just want to look at anything I can while he brings it up for me to have a nosey. Maybe theres even a "pedal trick" type thing you can do on these?? ???
If the few things I can check (assuming it is another boost related code) point to nothing then I'm sure he'll get it sorted one way or another I just want to do what I can to try and avoid him a bill.. Like you say, code monkey routines!
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If there is indeed a boost leak you should be able to hear a whooshing sound as it comes on boost
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If there is indeed a boost leak you should be able to hear a whooshing sound as it comes on boost
I might, you might, but he won't he's deaf as a post!
Anyone know if the codes clear with the battery off?
Anything else to add to check?
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I believe there is a pipe / tube near the turbo which when old / worn tends to contract from the suction especially when warm, thus restricting airflow. Best viewed from underneath, you should be able to see this happen. Common problem apparently.
Pipe needs changing if this is the case.
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I believe there is a pipe / tube near the turbo which when old / worn tends to contract from the suction especially when warm, thus restricting airflow. Best viewed from underneath, you should be able to see this happen. Common problem apparently.
Pipe needs changing if this is the case.
Hmmm I'll have a look at that as well see if anythings apparent there.
I suppose these are equally as prone to anything else with regards to EGR valves clogging up and failing to operate properly, maybe this is another candidate for looking at.
Annoyed that my £20 code reader doesn't work on his car though! But then for £20...
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Well I had a look at mateys car today, the actuator rod moves freely, I checked and re sealed the pipe I was concerned was opening up, I checked the pipe near the turbo as described in an above post, I'm guessing it refers to the pipe off under the turbo under the sump to the bottom of the i/c, hard plastic type with some apparent oil seepage where it attaches to the rubber off the turbo outlet so a bit suspect but no apparent whistle.
Then I started looking at the EGR valve. I noticed that when you rev it up, and at the time when i'd expect the EGR to open, the revs tail off by a considerable rpm, which it doesn't do when you remove the vacuum from either the EGR solenoid, or the tb solenoid. I think the tb closes as it should, but the EGR is stuck partially open, hence down on power and generally not happy, Solenoids all work spot on, the tb butterfly is definitely closing, turbo seems ok, and the cars not dangerously down on power so I've told him to hang on til I can get a better reader, I'm expecting it to throw up a code along the lines of "boost pressure/MAP level low" ie from the pressure escaping through the open EGR, or an EGR related code. If this is the case I shall blank off the EGR, remove the vacuum and blank to the tb as theres no sensor on the butterfly so it won't know it's not closing (possibly) and go from there,
If it throws up a completely different code I'll go from there instead. There is also a light blow on the exhaust which probably isn't helping but hay let's see when I get a decent reader what comes up.
Thanks for the tips peeps ;) :y