Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Andyv6 on 11 September 2012, 19:39:40
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Any ideas guys, elite Auto 3.0l 1998 cuts out intermitant at idle or when changing into reverse, crank sensor replaced with genuine gm part, was ok for a bit then started cutting out again, cleaned out all breather system, again was ok for a few days then cutting out again, also idle valve replaced ok for a few days then same again, only fault code stored every time was speed sensor, any help guys this thing is causing me brain ache now lol.
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Speed sponsor...? Abs? Crank? Cam? Is there one in the auto box? :-\
What was the exact code?
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Any ideas guys, elite Auto 3.0l 1998 cuts out intermitant at idle or when changing into reverse, crank sensor replaced with genuine gm part, was ok for a bit then started cutting out again, cleaned out all breather system, again was ok for a few days then cutting out again, also idle valve replaced ok for a few days then same again, only fault code stored every time was speed sensor, any help guys this thing is causing me brain ache now lol.
Assume you mean crank sensor mate - code 19. Ignore the unhelpful sarcasm above ::)
Don't assume because its a genuine Vx crank sensor that its ok - I had a new Vx one pack up within a month of fitting - a replacement is (as far as I know) still working over 18 months later (believe thats true Al?)
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Approx.£122 on TC. £158 retil. :y
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If indeed it is the crank sensor code, hopefully you will achieve a replacement FOC? Bit of a nuisance if you've fitted the replacement yourself...you may be going through it again. Are the connections clean and sound? Replacing it should confirm (if code confirms fault). Just to cheer you up, or for a laugh, when my c/s failed, purely by coincidence, I was parked in the VX Dealer car park, picking up parts, wouldn't start can you believe it, drove in, can't drive out! With no AA/RAC recovery etc I paid them to replace it...short of towing it away, was my most cost effective option! No wonder they are in business, it lands on their doorstep!!! Best of luck sorting it.
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Approx.£122 on TC. £158 retil. :y
Have you replied to the wrong thread again Albs? ???
Any ideas guys, elite Auto 3.0l 1998 cuts out intermitant at idle or when changing into reverse, crank sensor replaced with genuine gm part, was ok for a bit then started cutting out again, cleaned out all breather system, again was ok for a few days then cutting out again, also idle valve replaced ok for a few days then same again, only fault code stored every time was speed sensor, any help guys this thing is causing me brain ache now lol.
Assume you mean crank sensor mate - code 19. Ignore the unhelpful sarcasm above ::)
Don't assume because its a genuine Vx crank sensor that its ok - I had a new Vx one pack up within a month of fitting - a replacement is (as far as I know) still working over 18 months later (believe thats true Al?)
Not sure why you constantly have to "pick at the scab" so to speak. A valid question IMO, could be any of several speed sensors ;) I'v always been told not to assume as it could make an Ass out of U and ME ;)
Admittedly it's likely to be a code 19 for crank sensor but the OP needs to confirm that before going any further ;) The fault could equally be a split in the ICV pipework ;)
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Hi Andy, welcome first of all too the Forum. :y
In the maintainence section there is a how too so you can read your codes which will be stored on the cars ecu.
First thing is to read them, to see if things are made easier by stored codes.
Come back on here with your find
Daz :y
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Speed sponsor...? Abs? Crank? Cam? Is there one in the auto box? :-\
What was the exact code?
appologies if this reads other than factual, intended as a bump really, as it was half way down the page with no replys. But as bumping is not allowed I thought elaborate a little. If a bit abruptly.
Exact code would be good though, no?
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Yes guys it is fault code 19 confirmed by snapon scanner and paperclip test, the crank sensor failed on its way to MOT last year and was replaced with a cheap after market one that made the car run, but didn't sound right, this was replaced under warranty, then the car would not run with the new replacement, a genuine one was fitted that actually cost less than the aftermarket and it ran sweet as a nut, some times it will splutter a little then die other times it just dies.
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Not much luck then :(
If the wiring and connector are good and no filings on the magnetic end of the sensor I guess that just leaves .... yet another sensor ...? :-\
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Approx.£122 on TC. £158 retil. :y
Have you replied to the wrong thread again Albs? ???
Any ideas guys, elite Auto 3.0l 1998 cuts out intermitant at idle or when changing into reverse, crank sensor replaced with genuine gm part, was ok for a bit then started cutting out again, cleaned out all breather system, again was ok for a few days then cutting out again, also idle valve replaced ok for a few days then same again, only fault code stored every time was speed sensor, any help guys this thing is causing me brain ache now lol.
Assume you mean crank sensor mate - code 19. Ignore the unhelpful sarcasm above ::)
Don't assume because its a genuine Vx crank sensor that its ok - I had a new Vx one pack up within a month of fitting - a replacement is (as far as I know) still working over 18 months later (believe thats true Al?)
Not sure why you constantly have to "pick at the scab" so to speak. A valid question IMO, could be any of several speed sensors ;) I'v always been told not to assume as it could make an Ass out of U and ME ;)
Admittedly it's likely to be a code 19 for crank sensor but the OP needs to confirm that before going any further ;) The fault could equally be a split in the ICV pipework ;)
Agreed - was comenting on the statement "Is there one in the auto box?"
After all the op is a newbie and I felt any comment on his topic could have been more constructive and helpful ;)
At the end of the day sounds like the op has a dodgy/incorrect crank sensor ;)
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Had another look at this this weekend while replacing abs ecu, checked wiring from sensor plug back to ecu all ok,checked resistance of sensor all ok and when cranking had steady voltage, even changed sensor for another and still the same.
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Hmmm, having a 19 still means there is a problem with the ECU properly seeing the signal from the crank sensor.
Was this the speed signal you meant in first post, as I don't think the 3.0l engine management unit gets a direct speed signal.
Is 19 the only code in the engine management ECU? Out of interest, did you get the gearbox and ABS codes read, if so, any codes?
Sorry for all the Qs :-[
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The only other code in there was incorrect rpm signal, no faults stored in auto box and abs could not talk to due to being faulty tc and abs lights coming on intermitantly and losing speedo.
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The only other code in there was incorrect rpm signal, no faults stored in auto box and abs could not talk to due to being faulty tc and abs lights coming on intermitantly and losing speedo.
These are caused by a faulty ABS ECU
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General rule;
cutting out on idle, clean icv. (can also be on idle at speed obviously)
Cutting out under power, failing to start, constant cranking on the key, intermittent symptoms... crank senosr. Not always backed up by the crank sensor code.
Yours sounds more like icv going by description alone. ...?
Can't do any harm to clean idle control valve. Carb cleaner followed by a light oil.
If it persists, might also be worth checking for metal filings on the crank sensor magnetic end.
As said abs is a seperate un related system to crank sensor fault 19.
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Will be having another mooch this weekend when I get time, I know the abs ecu was unrelated it was just another job to sort out on it, thanks for the replys so far guys as Asda says every little helps lol.
Will also check wiring from idle valve, one thing I have been thinking about tho when the AC is gassed up (only lasts a week gotta find where the leak is) it doesn't cut out as rpm is a little higher, dunno if this is at all relevent just thinking out loud.
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Is the idle rock steady, or is it hunting slightly?
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Is the idle rock steady, or is it hunting slightly?
Rock steady 90% of the time and will just cut out, 10% of the time will have a little splutter then cut out or clears its self revs a little and continues to idle rock steady.
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Hello again Andy, just picked up on your point re A/C failure. Are you of the mind that the A/C load could be having an impact on the cutting out issue or a prompt for some discussion re the leak?
If the system has no gas (low pressure), the compressor clutch should disengage the compressor removing demand from the engine (same result as with running in 'eco' mode). You can check if the compressor is running or not by viewing the front pulley (bottom right on the aux drive belt looking from the front). If the centre of the pulley is not spinning the compressor is not running and should not be creating any impact on the engine.
I've recently resolved my A/C leak issue. Systems can leak in many places but in my case it was a leak at the compressor (the seal in the middle of the compressor body, not the high/low pressure pipe union seals...these were secure). I don't know if this is common for the compressors Vauxhall were fitting at the time but just in case, it may be worth you looking for traces of leaked A/C oil in that area. From a cost point of view, I did the work myself (replaced the compressor) and used CoolCar (Shirley,Solihull) for regas...supportive through the repair process in my experience.
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General rule;
cutting out on idle, clean icv. (can also be on idle at speed obviously)
Cutting out under power, failing to start, constant cranking on the key, intermittent symptoms... crank senosr. Not always backed up by the crank sensor code.
Yours sounds more like icv going by description alone. ...?
Can't do any harm to clean idle control valve. Carb cleaner followed by a light oil.
If it persists, might also be worth checking for metal filings on the crank sensor magnetic end.
As said abs is a seperate un related system to crank sensor fault 19.
Chris- I have read the thread and don't disagree with what people are saying. However what about MAF failure? When mine went it was cutting out on a trailing throttle or when you pulled up at a junction.
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General rule;
cutting out on idle, clean icv. (can also be on idle at speed obviously)
Cutting out under power, failing to start, constant cranking on the key, intermittent symptoms... crank senosr. Not always backed up by the crank sensor code.
Yours sounds more like icv going by description alone. ...?
Can't do any harm to clean idle control valve. Carb cleaner followed by a light oil.
If it persists, might also be worth checking for metal filings on the crank sensor magnetic end.
As said abs is a seperate un related system to crank sensor fault 19.
Chris- I have read the thread and don't disagree with what people are saying. However what about MAF failure? When mine went it was cutting out on a trailing throttle or when you pulled up at a junction.
When my MAF went engine just died. Started ok but died soon as accelerator touched. Disconnected MAF - started ok and ran reasonably ok. All back to normal once new MAF fitted :y
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Just a update guys replaced the maf for a known good one a week or so back and..... still the same, came to replace oil cooler today as there seems to be a leak in that area, found the mating surface on the head to the lower divider had a lot of corrosion on the ns head and had pitted the gasket, so fitted new gaskets cleaned corrosion off head, whacked a new temp sensor in there at the same time and up till now all running ok :D
Let's hope it may now be fixed.