Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: kevinp58 on 25 September 2012, 20:19:40
-
Can anybody tell me where I can get perfomance parts from?
-
What are looking for / hopeing to gain ?
-
Sorry but performance parts to me says chav, but what exactly are you hoping to achieve?
-
Sorry but performance parts to me says chav, but what exactly are you hoping to achieve?
+ 1
-
Not a massive amount you can do to increase engine power, other than service it properly. Ignore the crap that the likes of Courtney say, they are wrong :-X
There are improvements to handling, although the standard is quite capable (Elite excluded) once you understand the car. Assuming its in good working order.
-
No chav just wanted to know if there are any companies that do products for omega's
-
No chav just wanted to know if there are any companies that do products for omega's
You are being very general again, what exactly are you hoping to achieve?
Lowering the car?
Stiffer suspension?
Engine (bear in mind there is little you can do to a 3.2 to increase power)
upgrade speakers?
Give us a clue ::)
-
No chav just wanted to know if there are any companies that do products for omega's
You are being very general again, what exactly are you hoping to achieve?
Lowering the car?
Stiffer suspension?
Engine (bear in mind there is little you can do to a 3.2 to increase power)
upgrade speakers?
Give us a clue ::)
Just wondering if there are engine mods / filters / exhuast manifolds / systems, that sort of thing
-
Not a massive amount you can do to increase engine power, other than service it properly. Ignore the crap that the likes of Courtney say, they are wrong :-X
There are improvements to handling, although the standard is quite capable (Elite excluded) once you understand the car. Assuming its in good working order.
Yes car is in great shape engine serviced regular and only done 50,000 I know it has alot of power I am only really just looking to see if there is anything that can be done to increase power, probably will leave it alone though.
-
Very little available for tuning the engine, suspension mods might be the best route to look into for better handling. ;)
-
Bilstein b4 shocks and Ebach springs will stop you getting seasick in the bends :y
-
Bilstein b4 shocks and Ebach springs will stop you getting seasick in the bends :y
;D ;D ;D :y
-
No chav just wanted to know if there are any companies that do products for omega's
Funny, but those items you list are just what a 'chav' would want to add to an already superb car with more 'extras' comfort and performance than most of its competitors! Personally I prefer then to be as original and 'understated' so that when some wally who thinks he has a power machine gets left in the wind scratching his head in wonder!
The only way you will get any help or advice that you are seeking on the forums is to be honest and upfront so the members know what is required. Not to state your needs in full I think it is a waste of our time.
Now please tell us all in detail what you hope to acheive and no doubt you will get many replies and correct advice. At the end of the day though it is up to you whether you listen to those who have had miggys for donkeys years and know them well enough to know what works and what doesn't or ignore it. Can't say fairer than that can I? Hope you will be happy at the end result though and its cost effectiveness for the likely very tiny gains.
You are being very general again, what exactly are you hoping to achieve?
Lowering the car?
Stiffer suspension?
Engine (bear in mind there is little you can do to a 3.2 to increase power)
upgrade speakers?
Give us a clue ::)
Just wondering if there are engine mods / filters / exhuast manifolds / systems, that sort of thing
-
Fit a 4.22 ratio dif. Effectively lowering the gearing. It takes an eternity to reach top speed anyway...
-
Fit a 4.22 ratio dif. Effectively lowering the gearing. It takes an eternity to reach top speed anyway...
Chris being a bit thick when it comes to this stuff how does this effect top and bottom end speed :o
-
Fit a 4.22 ratio dif. Effectively lowering the gearing. It takes an eternity to reach top speed anyway...
Chris being a bit thick when it comes to this stuff how does this effect top and bottom end speed :o
think of a gear set on the back wheel of a push bike. The higher ration/big cog allows you to set off quickly at the expence of top speed, the lower ratio/small cog makes it an eternity to get going but when you do, you can go fast. A 4.22 diff will allow your car to set of quick - reduced top speed ..... 3.9 diff = higher top speed, but is like the small cog on the back of the push bike. :y
-
understand now thank you :y
-
Lower geared diff will adversely affect your fuel consumption,although some other tuning options would also have a similar effect. ;)
-
I repeat engine mods filters and exhaust upgrades not just noise, and deffinately NOT a Chav. seems some people just can't face others modifying. ::)
No chav just wanted to know if there are any companies that do products for omega's
Funny, but those items you list are just what a 'chav' would want to add to an already superb car with more 'extras' comfort and performance than most of its competitors! Personally I prefer then to be as original and 'understated' so that when some wally who thinks he has a power machine gets left in the wind scratching his head in wonder!
The only way you will get any help or advice that you are seeking on the forums is to be honest and upfront so the members know what is required. Not to state your needs in full I think it is a waste of our time.
Now please tell us all in detail what you hope to acheive and no doubt you will get many replies and correct advice. At the end of the day though it is up to you whether you listen to those who have had miggys for donkeys years and know them well enough to know what works and what doesn't or ignore it. Can't say fairer than that can I? Hope you will be happy at the end result though and its cost effectiveness for the likely very tiny gains.
You are being very general again, what exactly are you hoping to achieve?
Lowering the car?
Stiffer suspension?
Engine (bear in mind there is little you can do to a 3.2 to increase power)
upgrade speakers?
Give us a clue ::)
Just wondering if there are engine mods / filters / exhuast manifolds / systems, that sort of thing
-
Lowering the gearing reduces the road speed relative to engine speed, so you accelerate more quickly :y downside is that top end road speed is slower because in any gear the engine reaches the rev limiter at a lower road speed :y
That's why WRC rally cars can do 0-60 in 3 or 4 seconds, but struggle to do much over 120. It also uses more fuel because the engine is always revving higher than normal :-\
-
As far as performance on the omega goes, it's all good IMO.
Quicker acceleration. Top speed comes rounded quicker, not that I've seen top speed of course ;) , performance is better across the USABLE speed range.
Downsides, iirc it's 3-400 rpm higher at 80. Which some might find tedious on a long journey. Possibly higher fuel consumption as mentioned. There may be a slight reduction in top speed, as the rev limiter might kick in. Possibly.
I believe plod use a 4.2 LSD. But not sure. :-\
Anyway, it's a cheap increase in performance and the engine remains sock. So no worries affecting reliability.
-
There may be a slight reduction in top speed, as the rev limiter might kick in. Possibly.
I'd be surprised if a standard 3.0/3.2 auto can redline in top with standard diff...
-
There may be a slight reduction in top speed, as the rev limiter might kick in. Possibly.
I'd be surprised if a standard 3.0/3.2 auto can redline in top with standard diff...
Yes, IMO they are over geared as standard. But with a reasonable amount of power, they could afford to sacrifice an amount of performance to achieve better comfort and presumably economy. I have no economy figures btw.
All depends what one wants out of life, I suppose. :)
-
There may be a slight reduction in top speed, as the rev limiter might kick in. Possibly.
I'd be surprised if a standard 3.0/3.2 auto can redline in top with standard diff...
Yes, IMO they are over geared as standard. But with a reasonable amount of power, they could afford to sacrifice an amount of performance to achieve better comfort and presumably economy. I have no economy figures btw.
All depends what one wants out of life, I suppose. :)
For some, the lower revs may be more beneficial, as it makes for a more relaxing cruise. So not a one-size-fits-all option
-
There may be a slight reduction in top speed, as the rev limiter might kick in. Possibly.
I'd be surprised if a standard 3.0/3.2 auto can redline in top with standard diff...
Yes, IMO they are over geared as standard. But with a reasonable amount of power, they could afford to sacrifice an amount of performance to achieve better comfort and presumably economy. I have no economy figures btw.
All depends what one wants out of life, I suppose. :)
For some, the lower revs may be more beneficial, as it makes for a more relaxing cruise. So not a one-size-fits-all option
As said, depends what the owner wants out of life. (;D)
-
So reading the above fitting a 4.22.1 diff and 3ltr cams to a 2.6 would help low down and mid rage preformance (who is worried about top end these days) this would be at the expense of higher fuel costs and at motorway speed running a bit higher revs so a bit louder.
-
No, the op has a 3.2. Which come with a 3.9 dif.
The 4.22 dif comes with the 2.6.. So for you, as it's not your thread you cheaky hijacker ;) , you would need a lower geared dif than the your 2.6 4.22. So you'd need to look at the next higher ratio as on the one of the less powerfull engines in the omega range.
There is info in one of the guide sections as to what dif comes with what engine. You'll need to do some Maths and see which one suits best. Although options are limited. But 2woody may be able to fettle one for you.
The obvious upgrade for you as fit a 3.2 lump. But that's another thing altogether. ;)
-
I though 4.22 was the lowest geared one?
-
The 4.22 dif comes with the 2.6.. So for you, as it's not your thread you cheaky hijacker
Sorry :'(
-
Or to put it another way, fit a lower geared dif. Usually from the next less powerfull engine in the range.
(although the 2.2 might be going a hit far)
I though 4.22 was the lowest geared one?
er, dunno, might be. 2woody territory then...?
-
The 4.22 dif comes with the 2.6.. So for you, as it's not your thread you cheaky hijacker
Sorry :'(
Oh don't worry, only joking. But it's just that we where talking of a 3.2 for the op.
A different kettle of fish, for your 2.6. :y
-
No, the op has a 3.2. Which come with a 3.9 dif.
The 4.22 dif comes with the 2.6.. So for you, as it's not your thread you cheaky hijacker ;) , you would need a lower geared dif than the your 2.6 4.22. So you'd need to look at the next higher ratio as on the one of the less powerfull engines in the omega range.
There is info in one of the guide sections as to what dif comes with what engine. You'll need to do some Maths and see which one suits best. Although options are limited. But 2woody may be able to fettle one for you.
The obvious upgrade for you as fit a 3.2 lump. But that's another thing altogether. ;)
No problems hijacking, I wanted this thread to help anybody not just me. :y :y
-
The 4.22 dif comes with the 2.6.. So for you, as it's not your thread you cheaky hijacker
Sorry :'(
No probs paul you may carry on as I wanted this to help anybody.
-
There's this one
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90497.0
And this one
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90453.0
So yes, 4.22 dif in the 2.6 (and2.5 ? Etc ? )is the lowest oe geared dif available.
2woody may be able to fettle one perhaps. :-\
-
The 4.22 dif comes with the 2.6.. So for you, as it's not your thread you cheaky hijacker
Sorry :'(
No probs paul you may carry on as I wanted this to help anybody.
Thanks guys got the info I needed :y :y
-
Good thread .
Whilst on the subject of gearing, the ginetta i'm building is Omega based and i had the same issues with ratios. I ended up (by luck) changing to a Nissan LSD at 3.91:1 and am now going to drop the profile of the tyres down a tad just to lower the gearing that bit more.
4.22 would have been ideal as i dont need high top speed, but locating a 4.22 LSD is not easy.
As for adding performance without affecting reliability, i have always found in the past that a lightened flywheel makes a signifcant difference to engine pick-up. It doesn't add horsepower, but it doesn't absorb as much as a heavier flywheel either. So more to the rear wheels effectively.
-
There's this one
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90497.0
And this one
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90453.0
So yes, 4.22 dif in the 2.6 (and2.5 ? Etc ? )is the lowest oe geared dif available.
2woody may be able to fettle one perhaps. :-\
My 2.5 manual (with a 3lt engine) came with a 3.7 diff out of the factory
-
Good thread .
Whilst on the subject of gearing, the ginetta i'm building is Omega based and i had the same issues with ratios. I ended up (by luck) changing to a Nissan LSD at 3.91:1 and am now going to drop the profile of the tyres down a tad just to lower the gearing that bit more.
4.22 would have been ideal as i dont need high top speed, but locating a 4.22 LSD is not easy.
Are you running standard gearbox ratios? If so, that sounds rather low geared to me.
I started off with a 3.92 in my Westfield and found that 1st gear was a waste of time yet needed to get you rolling comfortably, and you were in 3rd by the time you hit 60MPH. Changed it to a 3.64 and it's much better. Will pull about 40 in 1st and can just about get all the power down, 60 in 2nd and 3rd will take it into 3 figures. It will cruise at 80MPH all day in 5th at about 3500 RPM.
This is all with a tuned 4 pot on 195/50/15s. With the added low down torque of a V6 I think there's a stronger case for gearing it a little higher.
IIRC, the Omega V6 manual box has a really short 1st and 2nd (3.8 odd first and 2.2 second, IIRC), so it might even be worse than the ratios in my Ford MT75.
It does, of course, depend on what you want to use the car for. If track use is going to be more important than road, it's the placement of the gears at mid-speed that's most important. Motorway cruising and getting off the lights can perhaps be compromised.
I still feel that the best upgrade I could make to my car would be a nice close ratio gearbox more suited to the car. :-* One day. 8)
As for adding performance without affecting reliability, i have always found in the past that a lightened flywheel makes a signifcant difference to engine pick-up. It doesn't add horsepower, but it doesn't absorb as much as a heavier flywheel either. So more to the rear wheels effectively.
Agreed, although whilst it makes a dramatic difference to a light car that accelerates very quickly through the low gears it mill be much less noticeable in an Omega, I reckon.
-
There may be a slight reduction in top speed, as the rev limiter might kick in. Possibly.
I'd be surprised if a standard 3.0/3.2 auto can redline in top with standard diff...
Yes, IMO they are over geared as standard. But with a reasonable amount of power, they could afford to sacrifice an amount of performance to achieve better comfort and presumably economy. I have no economy figures btw.
All depends what one wants out of life, I suppose. :)
For some, the lower revs may be more beneficial, as it makes for a more relaxing cruise. So not a one-size-fits-all option
Perhaps not, but a manual box is a good compromise :y
-
I still feel that the best upgrade I could make to my car would be a nice close ratio gearbox more suited to the car. :-* One day. 8)
I hear Quaife make some lovely units, or even the billet aluminium cased Albins gearbox which is a work of art (and unfortunately comes with a £14k price tag!).. no? ;D
-
Good thread .
Whilst on the subject of gearing, the ginetta i'm building is Omega based and i had the same issues with ratios. I ended up (by luck) changing to a Nissan LSD at 3.91:1 and am now going to drop the profile of the tyres down a tad just to lower the gearing that bit more.
4.22 would have been ideal as i dont need high top speed, but locating a 4.22 LSD is not easy.
Are you running standard gearbox ratios? If so, that sounds rather low geared to me.
I started off with a 3.92 in my Westfield and found that 1st gear was a waste of time yet needed to get you rolling comfortably, and you were in 3rd by the time you hit 60MPH. Changed it to a 3.64 and it's much better. Will pull about 40 in 1st and can just about get all the power down, 60 in 2nd and 3rd will take it into 3 figures. It will cruise at 80MPH all day in 5th at about 3500 RPM.
This is all with a tuned 4 pot on 195/50/15s. With the added low down torque of a V6 I think there's a stronger case for gearing it a little higher.
IIRC, the Omega V6 manual box has a really short 1st and 2nd (3.8 odd first and 2.2 second, IIRC), so it might even be worse than the ratios in my Ford MT75.
It does, of course, depend on what you want to use the car for. If track use is going to be more important than road, it's the placement of the gears at mid-speed that's most important. Motorway cruising and getting off the lights can perhaps be compromised.
I still feel that the best upgrade I could make to my car would be a nice close ratio gearbox more suited to the car. :-* One day. 8)
As for adding performance without affecting reliability, i have always found in the past that a lightened flywheel makes a signifcant difference to engine pick-up. It doesn't add horsepower, but it doesn't absorb as much as a heavier flywheel either. So more to the rear wheels effectively.
Agreed, although whilst it makes a dramatic difference to a light car that accelerates very quickly through the low gears it mill be much less noticeable in an Omega, I reckon.
Mainly track use, but will be road legal
31, 56, 89 in first 3 gears respectively with standard size tyres
-
If I had more focused, possibly track orientated car, I'd be looking at a sequential box, which might dictate a bike engine, although I'd actually want it mated to a v8 in a bigger car.
I just can't get that Ascari A10 video out if my head. Even if it was a Beemer lump in it. :-X
-
If I had more focused, possibly track orientated car, I'd be looking at a sequential box, which might dictate a bike engine, although I'd actually want it mated to a v8 in a bigger car.
I just can't get that Ascari A10 video out if my head. Even if it was a Beemer lump in it. :-X
A mate of mine's got just the car for you. RST bike-engine derived V8 with sequential box (not sure which) in a Caterham. :-*
http://www.the-jays.net/Photos/HaggisGalore2012/content/IMG_2780_large.html (http://www.the-jays.net/Photos/HaggisGalore2012/content/IMG_2780_large.html)
Seen here touring Scotland with us in September. (recognise that wheel in the bottom right corner?) The cost? Well, there's a clue in the registration plates, if that helps....
-
If I had more focused, possibly track orientated car, I'd be looking at a sequential box, which might dictate a bike engine, although I'd actually want it mated to a v8 in a bigger car.
You wouldn't have to go bike engine - both Quaife and Albins boxes are available in sequential clutchless-shift form for front-engine rear-drive applications. Of course, last time I looked, the Quaife was about £7k and the Albins twice that..
..which is why I have a T56 sitting in the garage for the Dax, and not a Quaife QBE60G ;D
-
A mate of mine's got just the car for you. RST bike-engine derived V8 with sequential box (not sure which) in a Caterham. :-*
I guess if you're dropping £15-20k on the bike derived V8, the gearbox is small change ;D
-
Elite do a nice type-9 derived sequential too.
None of them are cheap, though, and, if "used" properly, they are not exactly fit-and-forget either.
They are noisy, completely unrefined and cantankerous on the road unless traffic conditions allow them to be abused all the time. For a track only car, though... :-*
Not sure now many of them will take the torque output of a car V8 engine, either. Most applications I've seen have been low-torque revvy tuned 4 pots.
-
my brother ran a busa powered dax rush for a while, the gearbox was a constant source of all problems.
i like a manual stick !
-
Can we stay with the omega theme please, ;) ;)
-
The point is simple... any component.canbe made to fit anything at a price ::) so without a blank cheque, most peoples ideas are compromised by budget, so things are limited to off the shelf mods which are now few and far between, and are mostly cosmetic or handling based :y
-
Orgasmic. :)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rTn-ESJLDhk&feature=youtube_gdata_player
-
I'd prefer one of these... :-*
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=OEd8gNWggPk (http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=OEd8gNWggPk)
-
I'd prefer one of these... :-*
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=OEd8gNWggPk (http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=OEd8gNWggPk)
Christ almighty. ;D
-
I'd prefer one of these... :-*
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=OEd8gNWggPk (http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=OEd8gNWggPk)
Christ almighty. ;D
Yeah.. Don't know how he kept awake on some of those straights. ;)
-
Can we stay with the omega theme please, ;) ;)
You've still not told us what exactly you want to achieve.
Engine cone filters decrease performance, you get a better sound, but at a big cost.
There are no real exhaust mods, post cat, the system is quite free flowing.
Possible to do exhaust manifolds, but these would have to be custom made, but I think you will have little gain.
You can't chip a 3.2, so nothing to do there.
Replacement diff's with lower ratio like ex-police ones are quicker off the mark, i've driven one, its quite noticeable. But most are shagged by now and you get higher rpm for motorway cruise, so worse mpg. You want low rpms for high speed (which is what the Omega is all about)
A damn good service will increase performance, but if you are serious about wanting more go, you are going to have to think V8.
If you want "performance parts" you need to by a Saxo to mod ;)
-
Can we stay with the omega theme please, ;) ;)
You've still not told us what exactly you want to achieve.
Engine cone filters decrease performance, you get a better sound, but at a big cost.
There are no real exhaust mods, post cat, the system is quite free flowing.
Possible to do exhaust manifolds, but these would have to be custom made, but I think you will have little gain.
You can't chip a 3.2, so nothing to do there.
Replacement diff's with lower ratio like ex-police ones are quicker off the mark, i've driven one, its quite noticeable. But most are shagged by now and you get higher rpm for motorway cruise, so worse mpg. You want low rpms for high speed (which is what the Omega is all about)
A damn good service will increase performance, but if you are serious about wanting more go, you are going to have to think V8.
If you want "performance parts" you need to by a Saxo to mod ;)
Rule no 1 on Modifying a car... Don't ask Tunnie. ;) ;D
Factually, he's right though. There isn't anything simple to increase bhp without compromising some other area of performance, or we'd all have it.
Exhaust manifold is said to be the restriction, so free flowing exhausts and inlet mods have no positive effect at all. ...no after market manifolds exist for an auto, and the ones for a manual fowl the steering on full lock, apparently.
So then your into diy manifolds and that's expensive. But likely story there would be a top end gain in power at the expense of low down drive ability perhaps?
3.0/3.2 cams into 2.6/2.5 gives good results going by posts here, but to me, buy a 3.2 or a 3.0 in the first place. But each to their own as they say. :)
-
Rule no 1 on Modifying a car... Don't ask Tunnie. ;) ;D
Factually, he's right though. There isn't anything simple to increase bhp without compromising some other area of performance, or we'd all have it.
Exhaust manifold is said to be the restriction, so free flowing exhausts and inlet mods have no positive effect at all. ...no after market manifolds exist for an auto, and the ones for a manual fowl the steering on full lock, apparently.
So then your into diy manifolds and that's expensive. But likely story there would be a top end gain in power at the expense of low down drive ability perhaps?
3.0/3.2 cams into 2.6/2.5 gives good results going by posts here, but to me, buy a 3.2 or a 3.0 in the first place. But each to their own as they say. :)
[/quote] Thanks Chris I won't say what I really think of tunnie because I will get banned from here, suffice to say I am not amused at being called a Chav or to get a Saxo. The man is quite obviously a cloth cap person.
-
Blimey, been here less than a month & already not willing to say what they think of me, must be a record. ;D
From the start, all I have been asking is what exactly you want to achieve. In either terms of power or handling, but you've yet to answer.
All we get in reply is "products"
(http://www.tamemymind.com/blog/images2007/smiley-bangheadonwall.gif)