Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: GrpB Tom on 16 October 2012, 23:04:24
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Main issue is that it keeps conking out on me! Have run a diagnostic and it comes back with 0650 code which I expected as a bulb has blown on the instrument panel. It did register problems with the Cats but have replaced the whole system and that code has not resurfaced.
Of interest, is that just prior to conking out there is a noticeable downshift thud from the gearbox - its not severe but heavier than normal. Also the general 'feel' of the car has deterioated - not so much power, more gear changes than before and acceleration not so sharp.
The engine has been regularly serviced, The transmission hasn't been touched - ever! Thinking problem lies there.
Did the dianostic on that and came back with 'incorrect ratio' but removed the coil packs (cylinder 5+6 full of oil) and cleaned the sparks, tested it and the code did not reappear. Confused? Oh yes indeedy!!!
Any help would be great.
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Try checking the codes via pedal trick. As the guide in maintanance, then post the codes here.
...ah, which bulb has blown? If its the engine symbol it's probably been removed to hide the common pre cat codes.
If its the car/spanner light thats failed, the codes can NOT be read via pedal trick.
Pedal trick will tell you the engine ecu codes only. It will not give, for instance, gear box codes.
ATF service schedule is about 60k according to oof recommendations. ..?
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Must type faster :P
Transmission would probably benefit from a fluid and filter change.
Oil in plug wells mean that the camcover gaskets are failing, if left the coil packs will eventually fail.
Solution is to replace the gaskets and clean the breather system thoroughly :y
Have a look at the Maintenance Section and from the index you'll find the guides for this :y
The crank sensor may also be failing, which often gives either no codes or random codes :-\ that is probably the cause of the cutting out.
How many miles has the car done? Alot of the issues that Omegas have, and there are only a handful of them really, happen at around 100k give or take :-\
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Try checking the codes via pedal trick. As the guide in maintanance, then post the codes here.
...ah, which bulb has blown? If its the engine symbol it's probably been removed to hide the common pre cat codes.
If its the car/spanner light thats failed, the codes can NOT be read via pedal trick.
Pedal trick will tell you the engine ecu codes only. It will not give, for instance, gear box codes.
ATF service schedule is about 60k according to oof recommendations. ..?
Op has means to run diags (incl gearbox) - why do a pedal test??? ???
I concur with Al - first off gearbox fluid and filter change.
Clean breathers and fit new genuine Vx camcover gaskets.
Also would look to replace crank sensor :y
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Thanks for the feedback - really encouraging for a 1st timer.
Car has done 103K. i have a spare crankshaft sensor good to go. Diagnostics didn't show a problem so wasn't intending to replace - but happy to take advice on this.
Gearbox and filter clean forefront of mind at the moment - not too sure where to drain or fill up let alone finding the filter. Any tips?
You are ALL wonderful people!
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Duff crank sensor doesn't always throw a code ;)
To drain atf you have to remove sumps. You will then see filter which can be removed and cleaned. Level/filler plug on drivers side of gearbox just above sump joints.
Believe there's a how to
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Only use a genuine crank sensor though :y a pattern one might not last a week :'(
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Thanks for the feedback - really encouraging for a 1st timer.
Car has done 103K. i have a spare crankshaft sensor good to go. Diagnostics didn't show a problem so wasn't intending to replace - but happy to take advice on this.
Gearbox and filter clean forefront of mind at the moment - not too sure where to drain or fill up let alone finding the filter. Any tips?
You are ALL wonderful people!
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90664.0 :y
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Try checking the codes via pedal trick. As the guide in maintanance, then post the codes here.
...ah, which bulb has blown? If its the engine symbol it's probably been removed to hide the common pre cat codes.
If its the car/spanner light thats failed, the codes can NOT be read via pedal trick.
Pedal trick will tell you the engine ecu codes only. It will not give, for instance, gear box codes.
ATF service schedule is about 60k according to oof recommendations. ..?
Op has means to run diags (incl gearbox) - why do a pedal test??? ???
Why not? It's free, easier, and more accurate than some code readers that seem to get in a fuddle, such as snap on, or bosch that can give different codes on the same issue or not show codes at all. I've seen it.
Op doesn't say if he has personal access, and what reader. He may have to pay, and be getting spurious or inaccurate data through the hands of a Gorilla. He may also have a tech2 in his possession, in which case, both pedal trick and tech2 can be trusted.
Interesting of all the input here you continually choose mine to be pedantic with. ;)
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My weekend battle plan is starting to take shape..... the crankshaft sensor is made by Kerr Nelson. Have been assured ts OEM. Because it looks striaght forward and the process well documented here I'll change that 1st. Then the transmission.
Transmission filters for the AR35 box - can these just be cleaned up or is replacement necessary. Also taking the sump off without draining strikes me as potentially very messy. Any tips? or is it a case of lots of newspsper?
Did the pedal check - thoses light are bloomin' fast. Had to repeat the test 4 times before I got it accurately. Came back with the 0650 code which is the blown/missing engine bulb. Have heard that if you disconnect the battery with the key on II this saves all your settings - is this correct?
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Atf change is messy, hope you like the smell of dexron 3 ;D
Pedal trick is useful, but quite hard to keep up with the flashes :y not sure about the memory thing :-\
Take it that the emissions (engine shaped) light isn't working then :-\ easy enough to change the bulbs in the cluster :y
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Kerr nelson crank sensor ? never heard of it but only use genuine GM Crank sensor.
Gary.
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My weekend battle plan is starting to take shape..... the crankshaft sensor is made by Kerr Nelson. Have been assured ts OEM. Because it looks striaght forward and the process well documented here I'll change that 1st. Then the transmission.
Transmission filters for the AR35 box - can these just be cleaned up or is replacement necessary. Also taking the sump off without draining strikes me as potentially very messy. Any tips? or is it a case of lots of newspsper?
Did the pedal check - thoses light are bloomin' fast. Had to repeat the test 4 times before I got it accurately. Came back with the 0650 code which is the blown/missing engine bulb. Have heard that if you disconnect the battery with the key on II this saves all your settings - is this correct?
You can remove most of the fluid in the main sump by syphoning it out via the level plug, (I didn't think of that when doing mine :-[,) but with care didn't spill much, and do follow the 'how to' carefully when refilling. :y :y :y
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Well, changed the crankshaft sensor with no major dramas. The new sensor runs very close to the exhasut manifold shield which is a bit disconcerting. Cable tied the wire to the brake lines running on the side of the engine compartment and that seems to be holding it clear. Lucky for me the wiring loom support that runs right across the nearside set of cylinders had been broken previously so I was able to lift the sensor connection clear and unplug it. It was attached to its securing mount. That was discarded. Heavens knows how you'd get access otherwise.
Once all fitted, fired up and the engine ran perfectly. No issues on a test drive so looks like the problem was all to do with the crankshaft sensor.
Flush with success I decided not to attempt the gearbox oil change - will save that for next weekend!
Will let you know how it all goes!
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Good stuff. Genuine sensor?
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Glad your problem seems resolved - as I said duff crank sensor doesn't always throw its own code but can throw spurious others ;) Trust it was a genuine Vx sensor or your issues may reappear in the near future.
And yes gearbox filter can be cleaned and refitted :y
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OP said crank sensor wasn't genuine :'(
I think OP should fix all the known faults, including the dash bulb, clear everything out, and see what returns, giving us a base to work from.
I'm also concerned, the implication in first post is the cats have been changed :'(
OP - if you need help clearing codes, I'm in Milton Keynes most Tu/We/Th until 5ish, if that fits in with you.
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It was a sensor packaged by Kerr Nelson - but had no Bosch markings on it. So assume not genuine. Seems to be doing the job though. The original was a Bosch.
The whole exhaust was changed from the manifold back. The new exhaust had a slightly different configuration than the original one but went on with no problem. Hardest part of the job was unhooking the rear silencer - needed an extra set of hands. To note, there is a gasket from the manifold onto the downpipes. All my local motor factors couldn't supply and I'm 10mile up the road from Luton! Lucky for me I have an engineering chum who made some from pure copper and annealed them. Did the job perfectly.
To TheBoy - thanks for the kind offer but I've already cleared the codes. Would appreciate help on replacing the dash board blown blub - I agree all known faults should get fixed and if any return then i know I have a genuine problem. Keen to hear your views on chnaging the cats, The new ones did look very different than the old ones. :-\
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Would appreciate help on replacing the dash board blown blub
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90618.0
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90563.0
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90644.0
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Have a look through the forum on the pre cat issue. The fault code is 0420 and 0430 for pre cat efficiency low. It's the pre cats at fault, not the main cats.
This issue often prompts people to change the cats complete, unnecessarily, and to complicate matters the replacements, if pattern are never as well made. Often means more serious issues follow with the main cats.
If you still have the old ones that's good. But fear not, there is a fix and second hand genuine cats are fairly easy to come by.
3.0 ones work just fine too. :)
Edit, Ah, RobG with a link to say a thousand words on dash bulbs :) :y
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To chrisgixer, many thanks for the info will start searching. Still have the old cats so may keep hold for the time being - just in case. The fault code I did get was an O2 sensor one but that has not reappeared. Now I know the crank sensor was to blame for me conking out all the time the old cats maybe perfectly serviceable.
Have studied the bulb replacement procedure and it appears striaghtforward. Will get that sorted on the weekend. :y
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Ok, so why where the cats changed?
Was the O2 sensor changed as well...?
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The cats were changed as I had read somewhere that they can break down or get clogged (I am running LPG) and can cause a blockage which leads to the engine stalling. At the time the crankshaft sensor was not registering as a fault so I thought this a plausible reason. The fact that the lambda sensor was stored as a fault reinforced my suspicion that the cats were blocked up. Therefore, bought a complete exhaust system. The exhaust was on its way out - the normal pin holes in the pipes, etc.
I then decided to join the forum!!
O2 sensors not changed - but can read their output via my code tester. Not entirely sure what the correct values should be though.
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Never mind, you have access to the advice here now :y
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Yes I'd put this thread to bed and start a new thread for each independant issue as you work through your them.
...as being male, I can't multi task issues too well. :-[ ;D
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Yes I'd put this thread to bed and start a new thread for each independant issue as you work through your them.
...as being male, I can't multi task issues too well. :-[ ;D
:y
Who's looking over you shoulder Chris? Surely you're not p***y whipped? ;D ;D ;D