Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Car Chat => Topic started by: Zippy2012 on 05 December 2012, 01:00:01
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Hi all,
Basicly as post says can you adjust the rear camber?? i know the omega loves eating rear tires anyway on inside edges!!!
iva had the rear toe adjusted smack on & front aligned perfect etc apart from 1 front struts caster is out on strut top..
anyway i know lowering an omega throws everything out camber wise fronts can be adjusted on struts perfect but rears even worse?? 1500/2000miles 3000 if im really lucky!! to a pair of rear tires is starting to get annoying & on 19s getting harder to get good 2nd hand 255 35 19s 0r 265 30 19s!!
My last pair were measured roughly from outer to inner 6.0mm 5.2mm 4.0mm 3.2mm 2mm 0.0mm wires!!!
yes both rear subframe bushes are knackered hoping to pay for the polly ones this week but is there any way of adjusting the rear camber apart from cutting/welding the rear wishbones level??? DRASTIC I KNOW!!!
please help!! i dont really want to raise it back up
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Pedders do adjustable trailing arm bushes for the Monaro, which they were hoping to trial on an Omega.
No news as yet but drop them a pm to see if they've gotten round to it :y
Worst case, renew the trailing arm bushes and see if that helps :-\
Poly subframe bushes drop the front of the trailing arm slightly, might help flatten the camber as a side effect, can't vouch for that as I have yet to get mine set up since changing them ::)
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Rear trailing arm bushes look ok but i guess like the fronts the bushes poss be oval inside!!!
may help could do them when i fit polly donuts... :-\
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Try the donuts first, and go from there :y
People probably never bother with the trailing arm ones as they don't seem to wear out, but it could simply be that they get overlooked as they show no obvious signs of deteriation :-\
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Yes rear camber can be adjusted, but it is a compromise, as the rear trackrods adjust camber and toe together.
Lowering past 20mm is outside the scope of adjustment available though.
Two options,
camber adjustment bushes for the trailing arms from pedders as said. These have eccentric adjuster built into the bush to allow adjustment of the camber only.
Or, raise the rear ride height so the setting can be adjusted to spec. I had to raise mine from 30mm drop by 10mm for exactly this reason. After 300 miles the wear on 9j rears at over 300 quid was completely unacceptable. I had a tow bar and have an lpg tank in the boot, do it may have been sitting lower than 30mm drop though.
To raise the rear place a suitable spacer under the rear springs. I used a spare set of rubber pads from another spring set, the ones that sit above and bellow the spring to insulate the road noise etc and cut the centre locating peg off to make a flat washer shape, in effect, then placed that under the spring. Perfect camber settings now. :)
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Pic below.
(http://i344.photobucket.com/albums/p326/chrisgixer/3702C698-A9F0-4053-8735-79EC72F05109-7101-000006A27F348DD3.jpg)
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In short, lowered = extreme inner edge tyre wear. It's as simple as that.
Also, lower profile tyres = inner edge tyre wear.
You can claim some back by using the adjustable bushes - I have some fitted to the Holden, BUT these are only suitable for the outer position. The inner position relies on the bush being quite floppy for the suspension to work. Remove this and you'll get some very interesting handling traits as the wheel won't be able to move through its full arc properly. This is different to the Pedders information ( Omega B is subtly different to Holden at the rear )
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In short, lowered = extreme inner edge tyre wear. It's as simple as that.
Also, lower profile tyres = inner edge tyre wear.
You can claim some back by using the adjustable bushes - I have some fitted to the Holden, BUT these are only suitable for the outer position. The inner position relies on the bush being quite floppy for the suspension to work. Remove this and you'll get some very interesting handling traits as the wheel won't be able to move through its full arc properly. This is different to the Pedders information ( Omega B is subtly different to Holden at the rear )
unsure how low my car is.. :-\ its loaded atmo so i will brave the -3 outside :'( & measure from arch to wheel center front/rear & maybe some one could work it out?? :y
right im back... front is 330mm rear is 310mm
the pair of rear conti 275 30 19s lasted 500miles before the inside edges egged to hell 10 in fact on 1 wheel!!
i tried a pair of nankang 245 40 19s like new with 7mm they lasted about 2000miles but rear toe was way off!! 2 replacement tierods & all adjusted up perfect!!
been better with the 255 35 19s the last pair of Pzero rossos did 1600miles but only had 4mm tread
the dunlops ive fitted atmo have done 1800miles so far but did have 7mm tread when fitted & down to 4mm on inside edge atmo but mostly motorway use last month,
so new pair again in jan unless i put my steels on if we get this snow...??
i pay & fit the rear polly donuts 1st & go from there because there totally breaked!!!
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In short, lowered = extreme inner edge tyre wear. It's as simple as that.
Also, lower profile tyres = inner edge tyre wear.
You can claim some back by using the adjustable bushes - I have some fitted to the Holden, BUT these are only suitable for the outer position. The inner position relies on the bush being quite floppy for the suspension to work. Remove this and you'll get some very interesting handling traits as the wheel won't be able to move through its full arc properly. This is different to the Pedders information ( Omega B is subtly different to Holden at the rear )
unsure how low my car is.. :-\ its loaded atmo so i will brave the -3 outside :'( & measure from arch to wheel center front/rear & maybe some one could work it out?? :y
right im back... front is 330mm rear is 310mm
the pair of rear conti 275 30 19s lasted 500miles before the inside edges egged to hell 10 in fact on 1 wheel!!
i tried a pair of nankang 245 40 19s like new with 7mm they lasted about 2000miles but rear toe was way off!! 2 replacement tierods & all adjusted up perfect!!
been better with the 255 35 19s the last pair of Pzero rossos did 1600miles but only had 4mm tread
the dunlops ive fitted atmo have done 1800miles so far but did have 7mm tread when fitted & down to 4mm on inside edge atmo but mostly motorway use last month,
so new pair again in jan unless i put my steels on if we get this snow...??
i pay & fit the rear polly donuts 1st & go from there because there totally breaked!!!
it's not a toe issue, the problem is camber. The design of the suspension means camber increases as the suspension compresses. By lowering your effectively compressing the suspension position/ride height permenantly, and hence increasing camber permanently. So all the wheels lean in more at the top.
To determin an acceptable ride height, take it back to a set up rig so the rear camber is displayed on screen, measure the ride height to wheel arch, then jack the car so an acceptable camber setting is displayed on screen, then re measure the ride height. The difference in the two measurements will be the amount you need to raise the ride height by to stop the tyre wear. You can use the spacers under he springs as pictured. Or similar method, to raise the rear.
Or, fit camber adjustment bushes.
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Does look like you can't have it both ways :-\
If you're using the car every day, and want the tyres to last longer, you need to seriously consider returning the ride height to a bit nearer stock :-\ Does the car still have self levelling?, if it is fully loaded all the time then that is only going to make the problem worse because the extra weight effectively lowers the car even more...
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Rear tie rods adjust camber and toe. It's a compromise on both settings, and rarely on cars this age is the perfect already slightly compromised setting achievable. The fact rear toe is set perfectly. This implys to me, that the rear camber is likely even further out than the current ride height dictates.
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I should maybe have made it more explicit that it is camber, not toe which is causing this.
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I should maybe have made it more explicit that it is camber, not toe which is causing this.
i knew what you mean, the toe & caster are set perfect toe is 0.02 0.04 but camber is now 3.80 3.20 they were 6.90 6.10 before i had it 4wheel tracked,
i will fit the rear pollys see if they help & poss fit new bushes in rear wishbones at same time & have her re tracked,
car is not as low as it was few months ago!! it was that low i could hit cats eyes with middle pipes when i booted it to overtake at least now ive got 4" of clearance!
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anything over 2 degrees will shag your tyres in no time
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Zippy are you even real...?
Half a degree is WAY too much. Your talking about up to 6 times that AGAIN.
Are the outside edges even touching the road? (http://www.audi-tt.ru/forum/phpBB2/images/smiles/facepalm.gif)
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My MV6 suspension gives too much camber (almost 2.5 degrees IIRC) let alone anything lower!
You simply can't get away with lowering the rear end without seriously compromising the suspension geometry.
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Hi all,
Basicly as post says can you adjust the rear camber?? i know the omega loves eating rear tires anyway on inside edges!!!
iva had the rear toe adjusted smack on & front aligned perfect etc apart from 1 front struts caster is out on strut top..
anyway i know lowering an omega throws everything out camber wise fronts can be adjusted on struts perfect but rears even worse?? 1500/2000miles 3000 if im really lucky!! to a pair of rear tires is starting to get annoying & on 19s getting harder to get good 2nd hand 255 35 19s 0r 265 30 19s!!
My last pair were measured roughly from outer to inner 6.0mm 5.2mm 4.0mm 3.2mm 2mm 0.0mm wires!!!
yes both rear subframe bushes are knackered hoping to pay for the polly ones this week but is there any way of adjusting the rear camber apart from cutting/welding the rear wishbones level??? DRASTIC I KNOW!!!
please help!! i dont really want to raise it back up
Chris on outer edges umm ide say no not really running 255 35 19s on the 5th dec rears had 4mm on inner edges i went 2 shipley in yorkshire & back & checked them today & both are down to 2.90mm so worn off 1.10mm in 310miles outer edge is still showing just on 6mm if you can PM me your email i send you a pic of both rears you could upload for me..??
So if Kevs MV6 is 2.5 deg out mine only another 1.3..???
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I should maybe have made it more explicit that it is camber, not toe which is causing this.
i knew what you mean, the toe & caster are set perfect toe is 0.02 0.04 but camber is now 3.80 3.20 they were 6.90 6.10 before i had it 4wheel tracked,
i will fit the rear pollys see if they help & poss fit new bushes in rear wishbones at same time & have her re tracked,
car is not as low as it was few months ago!! it was that low i could hit cats eyes with middle pipes when i booted it to overtake at least now ive got 4" of clearance!
Sorry 8 times that. Does it matter how much exactly? The camber is rediculously excessive due to lowering. There is almost zero suspension movement, and only half the tyre contact patch is on the road.
You need to accept the simple fact, that the only way to stop the wear is to raise the ride height.
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Replacing the rear donuts will not fix this either btw.
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anything over 2 degrees will shag your tyres in no time
On the rear, it doesn't seem to - I get 10k from a set of Dunlop Sport Maxx TT 235/45/17, and I'm sure mine is around 2.5 degrees.
Wear is in middle (as if over inflated - but thats where the handling works).
Admittedly, mine isn't slammed. Can't see the point.
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mine isnt slammed just to see how low i can get it, if that was the case it would be even lower!
it could go another 45/50mm infact on rear & 20mm on front but thats just useless on our roads!!!
mine is lowered so the car sits level i dislike the way the estate sits so high on the back, i know its so you can carry a load etc & all the reasons why its designed like that,
i just prefer the sill line body moldings etc to sit horizontal & that huge gap above the rear tires gone,
all i wondered was if it could be adjusted in any way so answer is....
Yes if at standard height.
No if its been lowered.
Oh chris my rear bushes have actually pushed threw worse on N/S so metal to metal knocking atmo & rear steers abit now, ok so new polly bushes wont help the camber issue but should defo fix the other issue ive got on rear..