Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega Electrical and Audio Help => Topic started by: Impact Pete on 29 December 2012, 17:32:02
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Ok I am asking the question until I'm able to do pedal trick and get some codes, it all started today when I turned engine on all good until I put my baby in back seat shut his back passenger door and all the doors locked! until I walkede round to drivers side which to my relief was unlocked!
Panic over got in, shut door and turned lights on, there was a buzzer noise but very faint, turned lights off and it went away, switched lights back on and noise came back, opened drivers door pushed the door contact switch in and out but no different, shut drivers door and all but drivers doors locked.
stereo then wiped and went into safe mode and now when I lock the car the interior light stays on, if I had to place a bet on it I would say an earth fault somewhere.
any initial ideas? going to have to kill the interior light for the night, and yes switch is pressed in!
thank you
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Headlight switch would be my first port of call for the interior light :-\
Check all of the door looms/plugs where they connect to the body loom, looking for damaged wire. Start with the light switch though :y
Also does the car lock/unlock as normal with the remote?
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Headlight switch would be my first port of call for the interior light :-\
Check all of the door looms/plugs where they connect to the body loom, looking for damaged wire. Start with the light switch though :y
Also does the car lock/unlock as normal with the remote?
Hi no faint buzzer noise is intermittant it seems to be linked to locking and interior light, pulled the fuse last night and the as soon as you open a door all the other doors lock driversw does to unless key is in steering column.
Remote works ok but have noticed that you cant do the double dead lock.....
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Might also be worth checking the Ignition Barrel moves freely Up and Down (meaning in and out rather than clockwise / Anti clockwise) with the key both in and out as that can cause Door locking and buzzer issues.
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Might also be worth checking the Ignition Barrel moves freely Up and Down (meaning in and out rather than clockwise / Anti clockwise) with the key both in and out as that can cause Door locking and buzzer issues.
hi checked all of these things nothing faulty.
the only fault codes im getting are 0300 and 0303 which I new about and is sorted, the only other one is 0115 to do with thermostat high or low reading well that is probably as the thermostat is very intermittant and probably needs replacing trying to avoid that one with the B***ard bolt.
I am stuck, courtesy light is on while driving but door lights are off everytime the drivers door is opened the car locks
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Replace door switches mate ;)
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Replace door switches mate ;)
Not convinced on that theory i'm afraid due to the radio wiping and going into safe mode as well as the fact all the door switches work perfectly when tried.
I would rather have a more definate answer from someones experience as there are too many wierd things happening!
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Replace door switches mate ;)
Not convinced on that theory i'm afraid due to the radio wiping and going into safe mode as well as the fact all the door switches work perfectly when tried.
I would rather have a more definate answer from someones experience as there are too many wierd things happening!
From my experience mate with an old 4 pot Omega - same symptoms - new switches cured.
Still if you don't want help the don't post!
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Replace door switches mate ;)
Not convinced on that theory i'm afraid due to the radio wiping and going into safe mode as well as the fact all the door switches work perfectly when tried.
I would rather have a more definate answer from someones experience as there are too many wierd things happening!
From my experience mate with an old 4 pot Omega - same symptoms - new switches cured.
Still if you don't want help the don't post!
Think you have misstook my comment, it was not aimed at you and was not meant to offend but all you put was "door switches mate" no advice on to why or the fact that this was your experience, I like to understand why a fault is likely, and from my electrical engineering background the door switches make no sense on why the radio wiped and buzzers are on when the should not be etc etc etc...
Also all 6 switches work perfectly!
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Replace door switches mate ;)
+1 :y shorting out causing your problems mate :y
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Replace door switches mate ;)
+1 :y shorting out causing your problems mate :y
Right shorting out thank you, they all test ok so must be intermittant fault, do we think that it is more likely the drivers door to investigate further?
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Replace door switches mate ;)
+1 :y shorting out causing your problems mate :y
Most door pillar switches work by grounding the switch line to the car body. This convention was settled on so that the worst that can happen if a switch line shorts to the body is that the interior light comes on (and the battery goes flat).
There are two switches in one on the drivers door (one interior lights, one alarm/warning buzzer). Not sure if the second switch follows convention....... :-\
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Replace door switches mate ;)
+1 :y shorting out causing your problems mate :y
Most door pillar switches work by grounding the switch line to the car body. This convention was settled on so that the worst that can happen if a switch line shorts to the body is that the interior light comes on (and the battery goes flat).
There are two switches in one on the drivers door (one interior lights, one alarm/warning buzzer). Not sure if the second switch follows convention....... :-\
Thank you Andy, that does make sense, didn't realise there was 2 switches in one, so do you reckon it could be shorting between the two and to ground so making door lock when door is being opened etc?
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Replace door switches mate ;)
+1 :y shorting out causing your problems mate :y
Most door pillar switches work by grounding the switch line to the car body. This convention was settled on so that the worst that can happen if a switch line shorts to the body is that the interior light comes on (and the battery goes flat).
There are two switches in one on the drivers door (one interior lights, one alarm/warning buzzer). Not sure if the second switch follows convention....... :-\
Thank you Andy, that does make sense, didn't realise there was 2 switches in one, so do you reckon it could be shorting between the two and to ground so making door lock when door is being opened etc?
Haynes wiring diagram shows both switches following convention and 'grounding' the switch line to the body. I think you are right to look for an intermittent short but I don't think the door switches are at fault.
More likely to be the bundle of cables at the door hinge, unless your boy has put a penny in the rear cigarette lighter (been done before ::))
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As said above somewhere, most likely cause of doors locking themselves is a faulty switch in the lock actuator.
Most likely cause of multiple things not working is a blown fuse.
I don't know if the Omega locking system will blow fuses if operated continuously (party trick with Rover SD1 was to lock/unlock quickly 3 times. On the third 'lock' the poor overloaded fuse would blow..........)
My old (1994) Omega suffered from fractured wires by the boot hinge at around 150,000 miles then again by the passenger door hinge at around 190,000. Didn't blow any fuses though, just wouldn't light up/lock until I replaced the offending wires.
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As said above somewhere, most likely cause of doors locking themselves is a faulty switch in the lock actuator.
Most likely cause of multiple things not working is a blown fuse.
I don't know if the Omega locking system will blow fuses if operated continuously (party trick with Rover SD1 was to lock/unlock quickly 3 times. On the third 'lock' the poor overloaded fuse would blow..........)
My old (1994) Omega suffered from fractured wires by the boot hinge at around 150,000 miles then again by the passenger door hinge at around 190,000. Didn't blow any fuses though, just wouldn't light up/lock until I replaced the offending wires.
right thank you that gives me something to go on rather than switching out parts that are fine, I do like to see an exact fault like a dodgy wire etc so hopefully I will find something, baby a little too young to put anything in rear socket but that does make me ask the question what if there is a faulty wire at that point? not so likely as nothing moves around there.
Regarding lock actuator I replaced the 2 micro switches last year with rs ones as it had stopped working so not sure if that would be the issue again although you dont even move the door just lift the handle and they all lock, plus while filling with petrol the car just locked itself while all doors were shut.. :-\
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Hi not having much joy with finding any damaged cables or damaged door switches, 2 new problems happening intermittantly, first doors all lock immediately after unlocking making it really hard to open a door!, 2nd I parked up for a minute and left headlights on and left indicator on , returned to car buzzer making noises and hazards were flashing inside but not outside dashboard lights were dimming in time with flashers!
??? ???
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Check 0v connections around steering column and drivers footwell
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Check 0v connections around steering column and drivers footwell
::) checked the drivers switch again got a massive arc as i replaced it when ground screw made contact hazard dash lights came on relays were clicking so removed switch cleaned with wd40 replaced but now problem permanant which is good as it was too intermittant, so metered the switch again and now with plunger out there is continuity between both connectors as well as between each individual connectors and the ground :P
I would now assume with this in mind this is as already pointed out is the problem, I needed a definate answer as my car too many times has faults that 'mend' themselves a few days later! ::)