Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega Electrical and Audio Help => Topic started by: Sam Burton on 24 January 2013, 14:42:20
-
Hi guys,
Im trying to find out which wire does what can an OOF electrician help me please
(http://s1.postimage.org/giuophytr/2013_01_24_14_34_52.jpg)
-
Hopefully this makes it easier
i know the large RED WIRE is the permenant live
whats the others?????????
(http://s13.postimage.org/9jrakkbiv/2013_01_24_15_06_27.jpg)
-
Anyone car in bits here!!
-
Right well im F#cking confused what ever i do i cant seem to figure this out is it me just being retarded?????? can someone make sence of it and turn it back to english for me as ive got an IQ of 8 out of 100 ;D :D
Black Red Blue Blue
(http://s8.postimage.org/65diq3pqd/2013_01_24_16_07_51.jpg)
This is what it says on instructions ......
The Black wire should be earthed to the Metal Bodywork (Fine i understand this)
The Blue wire should be connected to Terminal 15(IGNITION) behind the Ignition Switch, with another one connecting Terminal 50 behind the Ignition Switch as well(The Power Path from IGNITION to the Starter Motor)
The Red wire should be connected to Terminal 15 (The power path that passes through ignition)
-
PM sent..
BUT bear in mind that the feed to the ignition switch is fused at 80A so it is not the best place to connect accessories as a short could cause a fire. You would be better off picking up supplies further down the chain where they are more appropriately fused. :y
If you can let us know what you are fitting it would be a great help.
-
Im Fitting a Push Button Kit as it makes sence since i have to turn ignition on to wait for Glow Plugs and then when the Light goes out i can push the button :y
-
Colour codes for those pins:
15 Black 6mm
50 Black with Red tracer 4mm
But those instructions are very confusing. :-\
-
OK, in that case you are probably being asked to break the 15 wire from the switch and insert this device in series maybe?
I don't like the sound of it, to be honest. :-\
-
Colour codes for those pins:
15 Black 6mm
50 Black with Red tracer 4mm
But those instructions are very confusing. :-\
Tell me about it!
-
This is the instructions that came with, see if one of you guys can make sence of it
(http://s7.postimage.org/mdsa88bx7/2013_01_24_17_03_09.jpg)
It says Green Wire but its actually Blue, This is the box itself
(http://s8.postimage.org/cetof8upx/2013_01_24_17_13_58.jpg)
-
Hmm. None of those wires look sufficiently rated to take the current that will be asked of them. :-\
I think I'd be inclined to return it, TBH. Doesn't look like it's up to the job and the instructions don't make clear how to fit it properly.
-
Hmm. None of those wires look sufficiently rated to take the current that will be asked of them. :-\
I think I'd be inclined to return it, TBH. Doesn't look like it's up to the job and the instructions don't make clear how to fit it properly.
Agreed - those wires look a little on the thin side to me also.
:-\
-
I predict a
riot fire. :o
-
All sorted finally managed to sort wiring out now starts as should and lights as it should Post some pictures in the light :)
-
All sorted finally managed to sort wiring out now starts as should and lights as it should Post some pictures in the when alight :)
Changed that for you ::)
-
I have wired similar buttons to cars, but never as a kit like this - Buttons and relays are often cheaper !!
You can easily use a push button to operate a hefty relay and if breaking into the starter supply circuit you must ensure that you use wires of an equal size and capacity to the ones you are cutting.
-
I have wired similar buttons to cars, but never as a kit like this - Buttons and relays are often cheaper !!
You can easily use a push button to operate a hefty relay and if breaking into the starter supply circuit you must ensure that you use wires of an equal size and capacity to the ones you are cutting.
Yep, unlike some cars, the full starter solenoid current passes through the ignition switch as there is no relay elsewhere. That could easily be 30 or 40 Amps. Way more than the wires pictured could ever handle, IMHO.
Current draw through the ignition switch "15" pin will also be considerable, looking at the wiring diagram. Not sure why you need to break this in a starter button, though? Yes, the button can stop the engine, but it'll leave a load of other accessories on as there are several other circuits powered from various other contacts on the ignition switch.
It all seems a bad idea to me but if it does what you want, just bear in mind that it might give you problems due to being overloaded.
-
All sorted finally managed to sort wiring out now starts as should and lights as it should Post some pictures in the when alight :)
Changed that for you ::)
OH SHUT UP PETE!! ;D ;D :D :D
-
All sorted finally managed to sort wiring out now starts as should and lights as it should Post some pictures in the when alight :)
Changed that for you ::)
OH SHUT UP PETE!! ;D ;D :D :D
(http://www.dndservices.co.uk/smiley/icon_lol.gif)
-
Trying to make sense of this :-\
Normally you turn the key to position 2, wait until the glow plug light goes out and then turn the key to position 3, releasing it once the engine is running. The key then returns to position 2. To switch off you simply turn the key back to 0 and remove...
Now, you turn the key to position 2, wait until the glow plug light goes out and then press a button to start the car, releasing it once the car is running. To switch off, you press the button again and turn the key back to 0 to remove it...
Basically, you've connected a little plastic box to one of the highest rated circuits on the car, just so you don't need to turn the key against a spring for ten seconds :-\
I hope you've told your insurers, because that has shit written all over it ::)
-
Trying to make sense of this :-\
Normally you turn the key to position 2, wait until the glow plug light goes out and then turn the key to position 3, releasing it once the engine is running. The key then returns to position 2. To switch off you simply turn the key back to 0 and remove...
Now, you turn the key to position 2, wait until the glow plug light goes out and then press a button to start the car, releasing it once the car is running. To switch off, you press the button again and turn the key back to 0 to remove it...
Basically, you've connected a little plastic box to one of the highest rated circuits on the car, just so you don't need to turn the key against a spring for ten seconds :-\
I hope you've told your insurers, because that has shit written all over it ::)
Do you really think i give a sh#t what my insurer thinks far as they no its a standard GLS the cars done 193000 miles its not worth f#ck all ;D
-
Right... well those of you that are interested here it is fitted
(http://s2.postimage.org/6kpitxyy1/2013_01_25_16_28_54.jpg[/img
Turning over
[img]http://s2.postimage.org/8yc1yp2qx/2013_01_25_16_29_03.jpg)
Video of start up
https://www.dropbox.com/s/kvfdchpnjidla4v/video_2013_01_25_16_29_29.wmv?m (https://www.dropbox.com/s/kvfdchpnjidla4v/video_2013_01_25_16_29_29.wmv?m)
-
Probably not ;D but consider this possible scenario...
You're driving through the Dartford Tunnel and suddenly your little black box bursts into flames.
In panic you manage to slew the car across the road, blocking both lanes. The fire then spreads to the resulting pile up.
Assuming you survive, the first conversation you have will be along the lines of:
Policeman: What happened?
Sam: I don't know. It just caught fire :'(
One very long and detailed forensic investigation later, your insurer finds out that your little black box was to blame and refuses to pay out, potentially handing you a bill for all the third party costs.
Still, it's not my car... :-X
-
Thanks for that, puts my mind right at ease i would like to no how it would catch fire though as all it does is have an alternitive method of Position 3 on ignition
-
I have wired similar buttons to cars, but never as a kit like this - Buttons and relays are often cheaper !!
You can easily use a push button to operate a hefty relay and if breaking into the starter supply circuit you must ensure that you use wires of an equal size and capacity to the ones you are cutting.
Yep, unlike some cars, the full starter solenoid current passes through the ignition switch as there is no relay elsewhere. That could easily be 30 or 40 Amps. Way more than the wires pictured could ever handle, IMHO.
Current draw through the ignition switch "15" pin will also be considerable, looking at the wiring diagram. Not sure why you need to break this in a starter button, though? Yes, the button can stop the engine, but it'll leave a load of other accessories on as there are several other circuits powered from various other contacts on the ignition switch.
It all seems a bad idea to me but if it does what you want, just bear in mind that it might give you problems due to being overloaded.
If Kevin AND Dave strongly and publicly recommend against it, then it would be prudent to pay attention :-X
-
Could i not fuse the wire then between the box and ignition wiring?
-
Trying to make sense of this :-\
No point Mate, your possibly too old?
Do you really think i give a sh#t what my insurer thinks far as they no its a standard GLS the cars done 193000 miles its not worth f#ck all ;D
And that is a truly inexperienced (not the first word I wrote) thing to say, let alone publish to the world...
i would like to no how it would catch fire though as all it does is have an alternitive method of Position 3 on ignition
As said, you can tell by the thickness of the wires.
I used to have a Mk. 1 Astra when I was younger and I had to re-wire that, I used a standard rear wiper switch for the ignition and the starter was the 'squirties' part of the switch, I'd have to replace the switch every few months as it used to melt...
-
...but consider this possible scenario...
You're driving through the Dartford Tunnel and suddenly your little black box bursts into flames.
In panic you manage to slew the car across the road, blocking both lanes. The fire then spreads to the resulting pile up.
Damn! That's just like the start of an episode of Casualty...
-
Haven`t updated this link for a while, but seemed a good time to show it again
http://www.dndservices.co.uk/pages.php?pageid=42.htm
::)