Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: coop1952 on 18 February 2013, 14:32:29
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When I try to start my car in the mornings, it starts on the first turn on the key then dies unless I rev it frantically. If it dies, I have to keep turning it over (almost until the battery gives up) and it eventually fires up - usually a bit lumpy. Once the car is running after a few seconds, it runs beautifully. Initially i thought it was the crank sensor on the way out and had it replaced but it still does it. I did the pedal trick and got 2 codes: 1613 and 1612. I don't know if this has anythig to do with it or some codes which need to be deleted. Can anyone enlighten me?
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What engine ?
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It's a 2002 2.6 V6 CDX
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Try disconnecting MAF ;)
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Thanks. I will disconnect the MAF and see how it starts tomorrow morning.
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I disconnected the maf this morning and it started first time and didn't cut out. The engine warning light has come on now and even if I plug the maf back in, it still stays on. Have done the pedal trick and have the new code 0100. Does this mean a new maf or can they be cleaned/overhauled. If it means a new maf, is there a guide to show me how to change it? Thanks
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New (or known good 2nd hand) MAF needed.Dont use cheap pattern/ebay one,not worth the hassle.
Removal is very easy.Thers a large jubilee clip at each end which needs to be loosened,then it pulls off. :y
You might need a decent code reader type device to extinguish the light after youve replaced MAF.
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:y :y :y
Cleaning usually ruins them
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Went to start the car this morning with the MAF disconnected and the same problem happened - it cut out and I had to keep turning it over for about 10-15 seconds before it came to life again. As I have the code 0100, if it's not the MAF, whats the next thing I should be checking?
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Wonder if its the Coolant temp sensor ::) code says maf though
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Hi Guy's
I've got a similar problem, been running my 2.6 with no MAF connected for months (see my other posts). Got the dreaded ebay MAF and a replacement so have 2. Neither worked initially. But have one in now and the EML went out immeadiately and the Consumption on the MID increased to 24mpg before backing off with short runs to 22.9 on long runs. But the gauge and fuel stops indicate about a quid/mile!!! When running rough the mpg drops drastically and there's a smell of petrol in the exhaust fumes.
Had a MAF of Steve at Omega Spares and that performs exactly the same as my original 1. With both these car runs bad after turning the steering wheel. But have to run the car to temperature before plugging the MAF in.
Since putting the ebay MAF in I've noticed that the temperature gauge drops to below 80 degrees when driving and the consumption increases or gets worse.
I've got the scuttle off right now. Engine starts badly when cold but jumps into life when the temperature increases.
Also whilst sitting on the rough running engine had a play at the back of it with the pipes, wires and god knows what else Vauxhall decided to cram in there, I heard a click from around the back of the plenum and the rough running stopped at exactly the same time as I heard this click. It's a similar click to the one you hear if you leave the ignition on but don't start the car...like a solenoid suddenly working.
I'm convinced it's an electrical problem but have the car running without the "V" shaped breathers in so could be the breather box blocked.
Do you recognise any of these symptons coop952? Or any in my other posts? We could be having the same problem
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oh also the consumption doesn't drop at all in traffic when gauge say 90 degrees or when I pull away but as the temp comes down with driving so the consumption increases :)
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I fear for my life when posting this but.....
Re the MAF cleaning. I cleaned an old MAF I had in the garage using the electrical contact cleaner from Halfords. It went in the car and touching wood has resolved my particular problem.
Cleaning with carb cleaner I believe is a no-no but this contact cleaner is specifically designed for this type of thing.
As said I know most disagree on here but I thought I'd add my own personal results. :y
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Different type of MAF plus no evidence that your MAF was at fault :y
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I am going to add the following:
1) Having breathers disconnected results in a vac leak which will give rough running.
2) MAF diag can only be confirmed by monitoring live data.
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Bootsey, I have got a replacement MAF ordered and should be putting it on this weekend. I will let you know if this cures my problem. At the moment my existing MAF is disconnected and the car runs a bit lumpy when cold. It seems to run fine after the car has warmed up. I did have a problem recently where my thermostat failed and had to be replaced. Because the thermostat was open all the time, the engine never really got warm and when the thermostat was replaced, there was a load of the white gunk all over the place which I had to clean out. I think I got it all out but there could still be some blocking a breather. Did you get the 0100 code which I believe indicates a problem with the MAF?
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Fault codes rarely indicate a specific sensor fault and 0100 is one of them.
Its telling you that the reading from the MAF does not corelate with that computed bsed on engine speed and throttle opening.
This can be for a number of reasons e.g. an air leak, crank signal issue (incorrect rpm signal), wiring issue and potentialy even a sensor fault.