Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: feeutfo on 05 March 2013, 15:32:23
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Still on going.
Codes are
0300
0300
0420 (sigh)
0173
0170
Trying another maf.
Car runs absolutely fine. Except when first switching to gas when engine is cold.
Starts fine.
Runs on petrol for the alotted 40 seconds/whatever the temp setting is.
Switches to gas, turns grumpy, brings the light on.
Turn of LPG.
Stop, re start the engine. Carry on all is fine.
Wait til the temp gets above 80 on the dash.
Switch to gas. And it's fine all day/until the next cold start.
Sometimes it behaves though.
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I've been getting some grumpiness lately too, but I just put it down to my lazy stat :-\ :-\
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Raise the switch over temp? Mines little lumpy on first switch over when its been cold recently....
Whats strange is when it was proper cold (-6 to -18) in Austria was fine ??? :-\
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Well if you call my hunting grumpy behavior it seems we all suffer from it
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The DBW cars seem to suffer it a little more due to the fact the throttle bodies are moving to control the idle... I might give mine a good clean out when I change the Cam Cover Gaskets and Thermostat and AC Condenser and.......... :-X ::)
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and and and. I know that feeling. Just done diff as old one was knackered and now I can really hear the front wheel bearings rumbling. Oh well
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The hunting is different. Ie slight rise and fall in idle speed.
"Grumpiness" is slight missfires causing rough running. In my case its bad enough to bring the eml on, raise 0300 multiple random missfires twice (I'm sure there will be loads of missfire codes not present in there too) and cause 0173/0170 fuel trim malfunction on both banks.
Going by the way the engine behaves, these codes are most likely caused during the cold running on lpg below say 70c on the dash. It really should be able to run at 40c , seeing as behaved fine previously, it was fine at 40c switch over in my other car, and, afaik, all the other kits members have here are all fine switching to gas at 40c at least.
So, what causes multiple missfires on both banks and fuel trim malfunction both banks?
Alli can think of is maf, seeing as I've checked for air leaks.
What causes the same symptoms on lpg prior to a warm engine? No idea. Hoping maf, but we'll see.
Iirc, Kev said the maf also reports intake temp as well as volume on the Dbw engines. Maybe the maf temp sensor is fubar...?
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Increase coolant temp. But you don't want to, do you.
Wonder if playing around with temp multiplier would help. Is it lean or rich when it gets shitty.
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Increase coolant temp. But you don't want to, do you.
Wonder if playing around with temp multiplier would help. Is it lean or rich when it gets shitty.
Nope, don't want to, but I would have to raise it about 70c to get round the issue. It would be a get round, and avoiding the problem though.
Don't know how to tell if its lean. :(
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Don't know how to tell if its lean. :(
Trims.
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Actually, lamdas will be working by then
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Don't know how to tell if its lean. :(
Trims.
Don't have that facility currently. :(
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Actually, lamdas will be working by then
Yes it's weird. Seems to go well enough when warm on gas. Fine on petrol at all times, its just getting it warm enough to run on gas. :-\
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Don't know how to tell if its lean. :(
Trims.
Don't have that facility currently. :(
Borrow my scanner if you want?
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Don't know how to tell if its lean. :(
Trims.
Don't have that facility currently. :(
Borrow my scanner if you want?
If your coming to the curry night, that would be great. :)
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The hunting is different. Ie slight rise and fall in idle speed.
"Grumpiness" is slight missfires causing rough running. In my case its bad enough to bring the eml on, raise 0300 multiple random missfires twice (I'm sure there will be loads of missfire codes not present in there too) and cause 0173/0170 fuel trim malfunction on both banks.
Going by the way the engine behaves, these codes are most likely caused during the cold running on lpg below say 70c on the dash. It really should be able to run at 40c , seeing as behaved fine previously, it was fine at 40c switch over in my other car, and, afaik, all the other kits members have here are all fine switching to gas at 40c at least.
So, what causes multiple missfires on both banks and fuel trim malfunction both banks?
Alli can think of is maf, seeing as I've checked for air leaks.
What causes the same symptoms on lpg prior to a warm engine? No idea. Hoping maf, but we'll see.
Iirc, Kev said the maf also reports intake temp as well as volume on the Dbw engines. Maybe the maf temp sensor is fubar...?
Can't see the MAF working fine on petrol but not on LPG :-\
I still think you need to be looking at the vapouriser (or something associated with it) maybe restricted coolant flow or crud in the coolant passages preventing heat transfer.
Can you borrow a known good vapouriser to see if it makes a difference?
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Actually, lamdas will be working by then
Yes it's weird. Seems to go well enough when warm on gas. Fine on petrol at all times, its just getting it warm enough to run on gas. :-\
You have facility to monitor lamdas during this period ;)
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Something's not right. Mine has had a bust vap. temperature sensor for months, so it switches over as soon as I exceed 2,000 RPM, so about 100 yds up the road. Doesn't miss a beat. :-\
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Something's not right. Mine has had a bust vap. temperature sensor for months, so it switches over as soon as I exceed 2,000 RPM, so about 100 yds up the road. Doesn't miss a beat. :-\
The KME vap/AC injector do seem to be more sensitive to setup. My old MV6 never skips a beat (high rpm changes lag aside) - Valtek injectors, can't remember which vap
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Something's not right. Mine has had a bust vap. temperature sensor for months, so it switches over as soon as I exceed 2,000 RPM, so about 100 yds up the road. Doesn't miss a beat. :-\
Car is exactly the same as last we played with it. Sometimes its ok, usually on warmer days. Sometimes its missing up to 80c on the dash. But always fine once warm at 85 plus
Problem is it needs to be cold to catch it paying up, if I drive it over to yours, it will be too warm and behave normally. As it did last time. :(
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The hunting is different. Ie slight rise and fall in idle speed.
"Grumpiness" is slight missfires causing rough running. In my case its bad enough to bring the eml on, raise 0300 multiple random missfires twice (I'm sure there will be loads of missfire codes not present in there too) and cause 0173/0170 fuel trim malfunction on both banks.
Going by the way the engine behaves, these codes are most likely caused during the cold running on lpg below say 70c on the dash. It really should be able to run at 40c , seeing as behaved fine previously, it was fine at 40c switch over in my other car, and, afaik, all the other kits members have here are all fine switching to gas at 40c at least.
So, what causes multiple missfires on both banks and fuel trim malfunction both banks?
Alli can think of is maf, seeing as I've checked for air leaks.
What causes the same symptoms on lpg prior to a warm engine? No idea. Hoping maf, but we'll see.
Iirc, Kev said the maf also reports intake temp as well as volume on the Dbw engines. Maybe the maf temp sensor is fubar...?
Can't see the MAF working fine on petrol but not on LPG :-\
I still think you need to be looking at the vapouriser (or something associated with it) maybe restricted coolant flow or crud in the coolant passages preventing heat transfer.
Can you borrow a known good vapouriser to see if it makes a difference?
Well. Lpg is harder to ignite, so if something's not quite right, it will misfire before petrol does.
But other than that.... :-\
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Could do with something that can record live data from a cold start for the warmup period, really.
Tech 2 probably can't record enough duration. Might be able to find some software for my ELM cable that would, I suppose?
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Actually, what size are your injector nozzles?
I'm thinking LPG is more dense when cold, we know those injectors are marginal on flowing little enough gas for a stable idle at the best of times. I wonder if under some conditions, when the vapouriser hasn't got properly hot, it's overfuelling. This will cause it to stall and mess about in a big way, because as the ECU tries to trim the fuel back, the LPG injectors go below their open/close time and simply stop opening, main ECU sees a misfire and starts to cut cylinders and it grinds to a halt.
I'm guessing it's fine for the first few minutes, then the lambda sensors wake up and it all goes pete tong?
I'm also still mindful of the weird effects we saw with respect to the vapouriser temperature wandering around when we last had a look at it. :-\
If I'm right, turning the vapour pressure down a fair bit (might have to accept that it'll run lean at the top end and avoid this part of the map) might prove if that's the issue.
Oh, hang on.. Chrisgixer avoiding top end. Can't see that working. ;)
Failing that, you come over some time and we gorge ourselves on home brew and curry, stay the night and we have a look in the morning. :y
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we gorge ourselves on home brew and curry, stay the night and we have a look in the morning. :y
All of a sudden, my LPG is broken ;D
Joking aside, TBE has a habit of stalling after about a mile from cold, though its usually hunting bad. In my case, I think its the nozzles are too large, and can't deal with idle. It idles when hot, but is really bad when cold.
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Today as it was slightly warmer my car didn't go into "rev pogo" mode. Just settled down to a nice idle as soon as the gas cut in. So I'm going to do the technical/mechanical thing and ignore it ::)
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My nozzles are 2.2. Same as the other kits, excepts TB's at 2.5mm. (Lazy Bloody admin ;D )
I expect the hunting issue as they all seem to do it with this kit. It's no biggy.
But the miss firing is something that developed on the particular car. It never used to do it. Iirc it was fine last winter.
Problems started on the way back from the lakes. Lag, less eager acceleration ...re mapped re calibrated etc seemed ok, but the grumpiness remained.
IMO it's not a set up issue as such. Something has gone out of tolerance. Something specific to this car. Not the kit. ...afaict anyway.
What affects cold starts, on both banks, just prior to proper operating temp?
Seemed ok this morning on cold start, very minor grump at junction just after switch over. But no extra codes, no light on, drove off fine.
Car seems more lively, but that could be placebo.
I have the LPG software and still have Kevs cable, so could record, if only I knew how, and had another set of hands.
Wonder if it needs re calibration to this maf. :-\
Oh, and vap is set at 1.2 bar currently, I noticed. :-\
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I know it may seem daft but when did it last have a set of plugs? We know the LPG does punish the ignition side of things. Just a thought I'll go stand in the corner again now. :P
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Have you tried an exact replica drive but on petrol only ?? Just to see if there is any recurrence ??
Mine (BRC) is set to change on pressure not temp/time/rpm and has never had any problem ... so I'm sort of wondering if it is a "gas only" problem if it is low pressure at low temps .. in which case changing the switch over slightly so the evap is warmer might help ??
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I know it may seem daft but when did it last have a set of plugs? We know the LPG does punish the ignition side of things. Just a thought I'll go stand in the corner again now. :P
;D yeah changed the plugs October time iirc, (just checked, it was actually may ::) ) so they won't have done more than 10k. ;)
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Gave it the full beans onto the 329 this morning where it normally plays up on my commute. Didn't miss a beat.
Two Luke warm starts yesterday, where the temp gauge was still sat at the bottom, but it had some heat in it as it started on gas immediately, so guessing about 50c. No problem. All fine, minimal hunting too.
Test will be the journey home though, especially as it gets colder at the weekend. Historically it really hates crawling along in traffic in the cold. (From switchover to 80c+)
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Historically it really hates crawling along in traffic...
I know several people like that too ;D
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Tried re calibrating at 1.10 , 1.15 and 1.17. All threw an error LPG injectors open, check lambdas etc.
Set it where it was at 1.20 and no errors. Guess it was set there for a reason.
And yes, it was grumpy in traffic on the way home. Doh. Although not as bad. :-\
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Fine this morning. Pulled over to see if it would behave at tickover, after las nights re calibration and tweak the map. No problem. :)
I also found another reducer temp sensor setting last night that matches the temp gauge perfectly, and changed the gas temp sensor to read similar/slightly higher than the reducer temp.
Faultless on the way in to work. See how it is on the way home. :-\
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Tried re calibrating at 1.10 , 1.15 and 1.17. All threw an error LPG injectors open, check lambdas etc.
Set it where it was at 1.20 and no errors. Guess it was set there for a reason.
And yes, it was grumpy in traffic on the way home. Doh. Although not as bad. :-\
I'm not suggesting it would supply enough fuel at wide open throttle. It's a step to prove it's overfuelling at idle when cold. ;)
Just as a test, give it a cal at 1 BAR, then set it to switch to petrol at 5K or something, just to see if it removes the cold start symptoms. :y
EDIT: assuming it's not fixed, of course.
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Tried re calibrating at 1.10 , 1.15 and 1.17. All threw an error LPG injectors open, check lambdas etc.
Set it where it was at 1.20 and no errors. Guess it was set there for a reason.
And yes, it was grumpy in traffic on the way home. Doh. Although not as bad. :-\
I'm not suggesting it would supply enough fuel at wide open throttle. It's a step to prove it's overfuelling at idle when cold. ;)
Just as a test, give it a cal at 1 BAR, then set it to switch to petrol at 5K or something, just to see if it removes the cold start symptoms. :y
EDIT: assuming it's not fixed, of course.
Yes I was coming round to that way if thinking last night. But ran out if time. Got called in as tea was ready. ;D
I'll have a proper fiddle on the way home in heavy traffic. Thing is the window for playing with settings is only a couple of minutes before it hits 80c and behaves. And I'll have the doors locked in case some smack head try's to hi jack my lap top. Good old slough. ;D
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Much better. But remembered I'd put the switch over temp up to 50c :-[
.... it only had a slight grump at one set of lights. :)
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Played up like mad this morning. Same codes.
Had to reset eml three times. :(
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Temp 0c
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Re calibrated it, again. But this time in the temperature that is causing the problems. Around zero c.
It seemed better, but that means nothing. See in the morning. But it defo feels better at low rpm, at 1.7 bar, and doesn't throw a warning at wot in first anymore.
However top end is flat and lumpy in power delivery. Gives little surges. Wonder if it has all the petrol map yet. ..? Fuel trims are coming down to zero from +19 and +22. :(
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Also there seems to be almost exactly 0.5 milliseconds difference in injector times between both banks. :-\ bank 2 being more.
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At 1.7 BAR I'm surprised the injectors are managing to open properly! It's only temporary though (I assume) and if it cures it then the nozzles can be made bigger to be able to reduce pressure.
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Hang on. Do I mean 1.17? ...;D
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Hang on. Do I mean 1.17? ...;D
I hope so! At 1.7 you'll need to rebuild injectors and replace bump stops very soon!
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Spoke to Tilo today. He said its injector related, probably due to bad fuel gumming up the injector seats.
Tried increasing vap,pressure to 1.3, as his advice, and dropping multipliers to give 3.2 - 3.5 ms injector times. He said if that goes tits up, which it did, clean the injectors with carb cleaner, which I have done.
Refitted injectors, fired it up, instantly running at 3.0 - 3.7ms at tick over, where as it was 2.9 up to 4.5 and stalling. Re calibrated, settled down nicely, good strong top end now, where as my last calibration was surging at wot at the top of the rev range.
Fingers crossed. :)
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Isnt the filter in the vap supposed to catch the shite that causes injector problems?
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Guess it doesn't work with the small particles visible. :-\
Bank 2 looked worse for some reason.
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Guess it doesn't work with the small particles visible. :-\
Bank 2 looked worse for some reason.
Mrs TB had emissions light flash this morning, -5C I think she said. Pedal trick shows 0173, 0300, 0302, 0304 and 0306.
As my cars rarely see Tech2, no idea if these are new codes this morning, or old codes ;D
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Isnt the filter in the vap supposed to catch the shite that causes injector problems?
I have a separate filter AFTER the vap, in the gas line, on mine ...
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Isnt the filter in the vap supposed to catch the shite that causes injector problems?
I have a separate filter AFTER the vap, in the gas line, on mine ...
So do we... 2 of them actually (2 lines ;)) which I think is what TB was referring to :-\ :y
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Thers also one pre vap, no?
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Thers also one pre vap, no?
Does LPG act as a solvent while liquid? I'm guessing that heavy ends can dissolve in the liquid (& therefore pass through the filter) but get deposited in the evaporator when the gas boils off.
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You won't get or shouldn't get to much crap in Lpg anyway. The tank can't rust from the inside it's the wrong enviroment. If you see the filtering we do at work when we make it You'd think it woulder get dirty. The actual tankers are very clean with lots of procedures especially if it's used for both butane and propane. I'm sure my crap got in the injector block when it was in the box. Gave me a reet edake it did ::)
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Aaeye, edake indeed. ;D :y
Tilo mentioned various contaminants, but heavy ends where the problem here. Sticky stuff that holds the injectors shut, but free off, when the injector becomes warm from latent heat from the engine and surroundings.
A test he mentioned was allow the car to warm up and feel the vap. The moment it feels warm, switch to gas, if it stumbles and grumps that points to stuck injectors, as the injector block is still stone cold. Or something like that anyway. Once warm the heavy ends free off, and the injector works again.
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Iirc it was the pipe cleaning agent they use in the tankers that buggers the injectors, if it gets in the system, he said.
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Thers also one pre vap, no?
Does LPG act as a solvent while liquid? I'm guessing that heavy ends can dissolve in the liquid (& therefore pass through the filter) but get deposited in the evaporator when the gas boils off.
Yes to Chris, there is one pre-vap.
Re heavy ends... I think there's a drain plug in the bottom of the vap (normally is) to drain them off... Might be worth looking into
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Interesting..
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See how it behaves on the trickle home tonight in the cold and heavy traffic. It stalled twice yesterday, prior to cleaning under the same conditions.
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I know it mentioned it earlier, but surely raising the switch over temp would help? :-\
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It would, but it should run fine from 20c switch over setting. This is misbehaving at up to 70c on the dash, in the cold near and below zero conditions currently. A higher switch over temp would hide the issue, not fix it. :)
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I still think that fill up at Morrison's on the way back from the lakes was dodgy. :(
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I still think that fill up at Morrison's on the way back from the lakes was dodgy. :(
Crap fuel? Trapped air? :-\
Usually LPG is fairly consistent :-\
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Heavy ends :-\
Poor refining Tilo says, iirc.
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Trust me Chris if it's off grade it doesn't leave the refinery. Most cock ups are down to the additives put in by the tanker drivers. As they don't add anything to LPG it will be clean and on grade. Good question about the water. If you did manage to get any in the tank you can't exactly get it out but if you do get water intrapped with LPG it would cause a freeze down and block the pipework. So I think you can rule that out.
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Trust me Chris if it's off grade it doesn't leave the refinery. Most cock ups are down to the additives put in by the tanker drivers. As they don't add anything to LPG it will be clean and on grade. Good question about the water. If you did manage to get any in the tank you can't exactly get it out but if you do get water intrapped with LPG it would cause a freeze down and block the pipework. So I think you can rule that out.
I know that you know what you're talking about here ;) But I have noticed differences in performance/behaviour (more the latter) between fill ups from, for example, a Supermarket (Generally Autogas/Calor) and Flogas supplied forecourts :-\ :-\
Plus there's the continental LPG ::) Surely there are differing amounts of Butane in the propane mix?
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Nope. No mixing of bute and pane. Honestly the only additive that goes in is Mercaptan for that aroma
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Nope. No mixing of bute and pane. Honestly the only additive that goes in is Mercaptan for that aroma
We definitely referring to Autogas... I was led to believe, by some very knowledgeable people, that AG is a Bute/propane mix :-\ :-\
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Hear what your saying Doz, but the injector innards where peppered.
Now, this is the first time I've seen inside an injector block with this many miles on, so that might be normal. 30k. But the carb cleaner has done the trick. It idles. No errors at wot. No stutter top end, and calibrates and maps more responsively, although the pressure was too high before. But it does calibrate and run with better fuel trims at the desired 1.10 bar now.
Fuel trims where +24 and +18 :o having re set the pressure to 1.10 bar, calibrated again and mapped it the trims are now +16 and +11 and reducing. Teas ready so stopped play. See how the trims are tomorrow evening etc. but its better. Much better.
Needless to say the grumpy stalling didn't occur this evening on the way home at 3c. :y
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I'm just wondering if you've got something breaking down inside the lines. Maybe one of the filters or an actual piece of rubber pipe. Still as long as it's ok now. I guess it could of been down to a shitty tank at the filling station. I don't know what checks are carried out at the stations. I'm 99% sure AG is pure Propane. However I guess there's nothing to stop it being mixed by 3rd parties once it's it's left us. We even have strict procedures for the tankers if they've been carrying mixed loads i.e the previous trip it might of been Butane and now it's Propane.
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Could well be something breaking down, but whatever it is, I'll be checking again in a week or so. See if the innards ate clean.
...now, which of the three Mafs I have here is the original one off my car. :-\ ;D
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Nope. No mixing of bute and pane. Honestly the only additive that goes in is Mercaptan for that aroma
We definitely referring to Autogas... I was led to believe, by some very knowledgeable people, that AG is a Bute/propane mix :-\ :-\
It is .... on the continent .. in UK its Propane only ... :) It is this "change" to a Propane/Butane mix and back again 2 weeks later that I'm convinced upsets my 0420/0430 codes. The one thing I can't prove but have been told, is the further south you go the higher the butane element. I've been as far south as the south coast of France and noticed no change in performance and the 0420/0430 did not occur until back in the UK .. exactly as normal.. :)
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Makes sense. Butane would be to slow to flash in our climate. Serious risk of liquid carry over. However Butane has a lower octane. If your not seeing any performance drop off it just proves we can't get the most out of the Propane.
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Makes sense. Butane would be to slow to flash in our climate. Serious risk of liquid carry over. However Butane has a lower octane. If your not seeing any performance drop off it just proves we can't get the most out of the Propane.
Disagree :) We HEAT the liquid phase at the evaporator to get gas for the injectors. Whole purpose of the vap :) The system would work without a vap if we all lived on the equator ... problem we have is the liquid gas takes more heat than available from the atmosphere at the rate we consume it .. so we add heat at the vap .. makes absolutely no difference - at the vap - propane or butane.
So, why the difference in gas make up then ?? actually very simple. We don't "pump" liquid gas from the tank to the vaporiser ..it is forced there by the gas pressure above the liquid gas in the tank and the fact that the liquid take off is at the bottom of the tank (invert a bottle of coke and undo the cap !!!)
If we put pure butane in the tank, at temps below 4C there would be no gas pressure above the liquid gas and no fluid would flow to the vap ... the engine would not work (on gas) until the LIQUID IN THE TANK temperature rose above 4C. propane "gases off" to much lower temps (-30 odd I think) so maintains the gas pressure above the liquid to force it to the vap, where engine water temp ensures it becomes gas for the injectors.
The higher the butane content the lower the partial gas pressure at cold temperatures
South of France the temp does not get that low so they can have a higher percentage of butane, but still some propane, to ensure the TANK PRESSURE is always sufficient to move the liquid.
That is my understanding of how it works. ... tin hat fitted for incoming :)
EDIT :
BTW the difference between gasoline/propane/butane in calorific value is tiny ... it is the density that makes most of the difference to how much we burn .. :)
Heat of Combustion for some common fuels
Fuel kJ/g kcal/g BTU/lb
Hydrogen 141.9 33.9 61,000
Gasoline 47.0 11.3 20,000
Diesel 45.0 10.7 19,300
Ethanol 29.7 7.1 12,000
Propane 49.9 11.9 21,000
Butane 49.2 11.8 21,200
Natural Gas 54.0 13.0 23,000
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Indeed. The only problem with using Butane is that we need the vapour pressure to deliver the liquid to the vapouriser, so a Butane / Propane mix would be OK provided there's enough Propane to give a decent vapour pressure at all times.
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Ok. This is fixed. Running lovely. Couple of cold starts today. No issues at all.
....although I could put the switch over temp down again, just be really sure. It's currently at 40c.
Cause? IMO. Dodgy fuel from Morrisons, in Leyland. (Sorry Doz) :(
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Although, did anyone else fill up there on the way back from the Lakes. ...? :-\
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Although, did anyone else fill up there on the way back from the Lakes. ...? :-\
Yup .. :) and I filled up there twice last week, once heading North and again heading South.
TBH, I don't see a fuel problem nearly a year ago only coming to light in the last few weeks, I know you reckon its temperature related, but think of the amount of fuel that has passed through in that time, without any problems..
But I don't know .. its just strange that it should take so long to become apparent ... :-\ :-\
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It was apparent immediately. It's just taken this long to get to the bottom of it. The car lagged badly on the way down from Leyland, but was fine on the way too.
It's got progressively bad, to the point it was stalling just after, if not before, Christmas. Once the car was warm it was fine.... Correction, once the latent heat got into the injectors it was fine. The Mo fits perfectly. Tilo didn't hesitate, and instantly said injectors once I described the symptoms. Kevin mentioned a possible slow injector issue a long way back. Although we where discussing the grey injectors range of performance.
It could be something braking down as Doz says. Or, it could continue to draw heavy ends down for a good while. Or, heavy ends could arrive all at once and get progressively stickier the longer they are in place. :-\ dunno. :-\ its my first encounter with heavy ends... Or what ever it was in the injector block.
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Sfixed though. Oh yes. Definitely fixed. ;)
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I should add, it was re calibrated two or three times to get it to behave, over the course of a few months.
Thanks to Kevin. ...and Lazytinker, on the dog. :y
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Having said that, this pic and Lazyfockers reference to draining heavy ends implies they are a bit fluid. What I saw was more of a peppering. Very fine particles. But then I guess it would need to be to get passed the filters.
http://www.log-rover.co.uk/Putting%20things%20together/slides/heavy%20ends.html
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Just to confirm,
long term fuel trims
0.0 bank1
-6.2 bank2
Jobbed. :y
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Just to confirm,
long term fuel trims
0.0 bank1
-6.2 bank2
Jobbed. :y
Good enuff :y