Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Car Chat => Topic started by: chrisgixer on 07 July 2013, 15:18:47
-
Had young Grain Ben round today, bit of a knock, bit of tyre wear, concerns over loose wishbone bolts and a general look over the suspension, prior to set up and new tyres.
Rearward wishbone bush failed but not enough to cause a knock. So what's causing the (slight) knock...?
Well, its coming from the pas side.
With car on stands, thump the drivers road wheel with a closed hand and there's no noise other than reverberation through the suspension. Pas side however, and there's a clank. Foot in brake, no clank. So wheel off, check caliper, there's play and a wobble.
Caliper off, check the pins for play, lower ones had a fair bit of play. Check the pads, pattern parts. These have no rubber sticker on one pad like tc ones have. Ie both pad backs are bare metal.
So conclude, pin wear and no rubber sticker on the pad back is allowing the caliper to knock slightly over bumps. Also, tc pads should be fitted with the brake pad with rubber sticker on the outboard clipper side (as opposed to against the piston)
Point? Fit genuine parts. :y
-
Given the price on TC too at £15+ vat approx? Another reason :y
-
Given the price on TC too at £15+ vat approx? Another reason :y
These where similarly priced. So not as good value.
-
Had young Grain Ben round today, bit of a knock, bit of tyre wear, concerns over loose wishbone bolts and a general look over the suspension, prior to set up and new tyres.
Rearward wishbone bush failed but not enough to cause a knock. So what's causing the (slight) knock...?
Well, its coming from the pas side.
With car on stands, thump the drivers road wheel with a closed hand and there's no noise other than reverberation through the suspension. Pas side however, and there's a clank. Foot in brake, no clank. So wheel off, check caliper, there's play and a wobble.
Caliper off, check the pins for play, lower ones had a fair bit of play. Check the pads, pattern parts. These have no rubber sticker on one pad like tc ones have. Ie both pad backs are bare metal.
So conclude, pin wear and no rubber sticker on the pad back is allowing the caliper to knock slightly over bumps. Also, tc pads should be fitted with the brake pad with rubber sticker on the outboard clipper side (as opposed to against the piston)
Point? Fit genuine parts. :y
As I stressed earlier Chris ;), those pads were fitted before I found this site, not knowing its best to use gen gm parts, and I really have taken that on board now.
Although, the Motorquip pattern pads have lasted a very long time, but that's no excuse for not using gen gm parts :
Also, thanks very much for today, im learning all the time now, and thank the mrs for the cold beverage, twas lovely in this in heat :y
-
Had young Grain Ben round today, bit of a knock, bit of tyre wear, concerns over loose wishbone bolts and a general look over the suspension, prior to set up and new tyres.
Rearward wishbone bush failed but not enough to cause a knock. So what's causing the (slight) knock...?
Well, its coming from the pas side.
With car on stands, thump the drivers road wheel with a closed hand and there's no noise other than reverberation through the suspension. Pas side however, and there's a clank. Foot in brake, no clank. So wheel off, check caliper, there's play and a wobble.
Caliper off, check the pins for play, lower ones had a fair bit of play. Check the pads, pattern parts. These have no rubber sticker on one pad like tc ones have. Ie both pad backs are bare metal.
So conclude, pin wear and no rubber sticker on the pad back is allowing the caliper to knock slightly over bumps. Also, tc pads should be fitted with the brake pad with rubber sticker on the outboard clipper side (as opposed to against the piston)
Point? Fit genuine parts. :y
(http://forums.mg-rover.org/images/smilies/popcorn.gif)
::)
;D
-
With GM TC pads being tried and tested on here, and from personal experience, I can assure you they can withstand an awful lot of road abuse, there is no reason to use anything else.
I had an Omega (not a member) round here a few weeks ago, looking for an emissions related code, took it for a spin, and the brakes were shockingly bad, he'd recently had some no-name crappy pads that ECP had flogged him for about £15 fitted. He thought it was a bargain, and said he didn't mind that it didn't stop as well.
-
Had young Grain Ben round today, bit of a knock, bit of tyre wear, concerns over loose wishbone bolts and a general look over the suspension, prior to set up and new tyres.
Rearward wishbone bush failed but not enough to cause a knock. So what's causing the (slight) knock...?
Well, its coming from the pas side.
With car on stands, thump the drivers road wheel with a closed hand and there's no noise other than reverberation through the suspension. Pas side however, and there's a clank. Foot in brake, no clank. So wheel off, check caliper, there's play and a wobble.
Caliper off, check the pins for play, lower ones had a fair bit of play. Check the pads, pattern parts. These have no rubber sticker on one pad like tc ones have. Ie both pad backs are bare metal.
So conclude, pin wear and no rubber sticker on the pad back is allowing the caliper to knock slightly over bumps. Also, tc pads should be fitted with the brake pad with rubber sticker on the outboard clipper side (as opposed to against the piston)
Point? Fit genuine parts. :y
Thats what was happening to mine :( No rubber on the backs :(
-
Had young Grain Ben round today, bit of a knock, bit of tyre wear, concerns over loose wishbone bolts and a general look over the suspension, prior to set up and new tyres.
Rearward wishbone bush failed but not enough to cause a knock. So what's causing the (slight) knock...?
Well, its coming from the pas side.
With car on stands, thump the drivers road wheel with a closed hand and there's no noise other than reverberation through the suspension. Pas side however, and there's a clank. Foot in brake, no clank. So wheel off, check caliper, there's play and a wobble.
Caliper off, check the pins for play, lower ones had a fair bit of play. Check the pads, pattern parts. These have no rubber sticker on one pad like tc ones have. Ie both pad backs are bare metal.
So conclude, pin wear and no rubber sticker on the pad back is allowing the caliper to knock slightly over bumps. Also, tc pads should be fitted with the brake pad with rubber sticker on the outboard clipper side (as opposed to against the piston)
Point? Fit genuine parts. :y
Thats what was happening to mine :( No rubber on the backs :(
I must admit, I was always unsure which way to fit the pads. Rubber backing to the calliper or piston...? Historically its not made any odds ime. Until today.
I presume this is the reason for the backing, from what saw today. If so, rubber backing on the outboard pad it seems. We'll see what happens when its re bushed and the polys are re greased as to the noise, as this needs doing anyway.
If the noise persists then new tc pads and go from there.
I use oe pads anyway, soft metal shims riveted to both sides. (As opposed to the cast metal backing to caliper)
-
I use oe pads anyway, soft metal shims riveted to both sides. (As opposed to the cast metal backing to caliper)
Struggling to get the rear OE's now. Can still get the fronts though.
-
Meh, Omega brakes are utter shite anyway.
Don't get me wrong, they'll stop you from 100-0 very well....... once.
What I don't understand is, the car has reasonable size discs (all round) decent pad surface....... but overheat quickly.
My e39 (similar size and weight) will stop numerous times in quick succession without brake fade. Why?
-
IMO they are under sized tbh. Need bigger discs, with twin pot opposing calliper minimum.
-
Or just brake earlier ::)
... and carry less "ballast" :-X
-
Or just brake earlier ::)
... and carry less "ballast" :-X
Or fit a less powerful engine ;)
-
Its not just capacity either, pedal feel and level of servo assistance are exceptionally poor, for my taste.
-
IMO they are under sized tbh. Need bigger discs, with twin pot opposing calliper minimum.
Agreed,my Signum has way bigger brakes on a lighter car,313mm on the front I think :y
-
Meh, Omega brakes are utter shite anyway.
Don't get me wrong, they'll stop you from 100-0 very well....... once.
What I don't understand is, the car has reasonable size discs (all round) decent pad surface....... but overheat quickly.
My e39 (similar size and weight) will stop numerous times in quick succession without brake fade. Why?
Good for appox 10-12 of those in reasonably quick succession if the brakes are serviced properly, but abused to that level, the pads never recover. (Based on TC pads, GM discs, and standard GM DOT4 fluid).
The car is simply too heavy for the size of its discs if you do track style driving.
-
Its not just capacity either, pedal feel and level of servo assistance are exceptionally poor, for my taste.
Having owned (in addition to company vehicles) a few samll/medium sized Fords, I prefer the Omega feel. I feel its more controllable.
But, agreed, after a week driving a shitbox focus, jumping in a 3.0l Omega with cold TC pads, there was an element of clench when approaching the carpark barrier ;D
-
Its not just capacity either, pedal feel and level of servo assistance are exceptionally poor, for my taste.
Having owned (in addition to company vehicles) a few samll/medium sized Fords, I prefer the Omega feel. I feel its more controllable.
But, agreed, after a week driving a shitbox focus, jumping in a 3.0l Omega with cold TC pads, there was an element of clench when approaching the carpark barrier ;D
Absolutely ;D
Drive ANY other car, the brakes have more assistance. Jump back in the omega, CHRIST! :o , but the brain soon re calibrates when scared ;D
There are a few options that "look" like they might work. 18" wheels helps. Alot! ;)
-
Its not just capacity either, pedal feel and level of servo assistance are exceptionally poor, for my taste.
Having owned (in addition to company vehicles) a few samll/medium sized Fords, I prefer the Omega feel. I feel its more controllable.
But, agreed, after a week driving a shitbox focus, jumping in a 3.0l Omega with cold TC pads, there was an element of clench when approaching the carpark barrier ;D
Absolutely ;D
Drive ANY other car, the brakes have more assistance. Jump back in the omega, CHRIST! :o , but the brain soon re calibrates when scared ;D
There are a few options that "look" like they might work. 18" wheels helps. Alot! ;)
Not sure I want my assistance to the brakes. Durability, maybe - you can never have enough brake durability ;D. That said, you have to drive pretty hard to get any brake problems. (Note, talking about road use - they wouldn't stand up to track)
-
Its not just capacity either, pedal feel and level of servo assistance are exceptionally poor, for my taste.
Having owned (in addition to company vehicles) a few samll/medium sized Fords, I prefer the Omega feel. I feel its more controllable.
But, agreed, after a week driving a shitbox focus, jumping in a 3.0l Omega with cold TC pads, there was an element of clench when approaching the carpark barrier ;D
Absolutely ;D
Drive ANY other car, the brakes have more assistance. Jump back in the omega, CHRIST! :o , but the brain soon re calibrates when scared ;D
There are a few options that "look" like they might work. 18" wheels helps. Alot! ;)
Not sure I want my assistance to the brakes. Durability, maybe - you can never have enough brake durability ;D. That said, you have to drive pretty hard to get any brake problems. (Note, talking about road use - they wouldn't stand up to track)
One option
(http://i344.photobucket.com/albums/p326/chrisgixer/622ebeb6d5c47370553bfed1cc7cb381_zps8fd825b2.jpg)
Probably wont fit in an oe 17" wheel.
-
I guess you are all referring to petrol models. As I have mentioned before, my TD estate stops far better than the 3.2 Elite, both on TC pads on the front. ??? ??? ??? Why?
-
Its not just capacity either, pedal feel and level of servo assistance are exceptionally poor, for my taste.
Having owned (in addition to company vehicles) a few samll/medium sized Fords, I prefer the Omega feel. I feel its more controllable.
But, agreed, after a week driving a shitbox focus, jumping in a 3.0l Omega with cold TC pads, there was an element of clench when approaching the carpark barrier ;D
Absolutely ;D
Drive ANY other car, the brakes have more assistance. Jump back in the omega, CHRIST! :o , but the brain soon re calibrates when scared ;D
There are a few options that "look" like they might work. 18" wheels helps. Alot! ;)
Not sure I want my assistance to the brakes. Durability, maybe - you can never have enough brake durability ;D. That said, you have to drive pretty hard to get any brake problems. (Note, talking about road use - they wouldn't stand up to track)
One option
(http://i344.photobucket.com/albums/p326/chrisgixer/622ebeb6d5c47370553bfed1cc7cb381_zps8fd825b2.jpg)
Probably wont fit in an oe 17" wheel.
Hit the nail on the head there - Omegas are an old car now, running 16" or latterly 17" wheels - on the V6s same dia brake disk though pre, minif/l and f/l. Most modern cars are generally runnng bigger wheels, allowing use of bigger discs, together with more modern style calipers, such as opposing pistons, twin and 4 pot.
Omega brakes suffering the limitations of age now.
Do agree though TC pads reasonably priced and adequate for normal road use.
-
....there are bigger than oe options that will fit in a 17" wheel. There is plenty of room both in diameter and depth behind the spokes.
Her lexus is 04 but has bigger discs and calipers in a smaller offset wheel. It was an oversight on GM's behalf IMO.
-
....there are bigger than oe options that will fit in a 17" wheel. There is plenty of room both in diameter and depth behind the spokes.
Her lexus is 04 but has bigger discs and calipers in a smaller offset wheel. It was an oversight on GM's behalf IMO.
Agreed. The Omega brakes look lost inside a 17" wheel.
-
Even the v8 only went to 334mm :(
Same 17" wheels btw