Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: terry paget on 20 August 2013, 20:24:43
-
X84GNB 2.5 petrol manual estate
Aiming to change RH exhaust manifold, following RobG and Haynes. Having uncoupled oil cooler pipes, and removed many hoses, Haynes says 'push oil pipes back', then 'slacken and remove the retaining bolts then remove from the engine'
The oil pipes do not push very far back. I get the impression there are two Torx screws holding the pipe to the head, but I cannot get at them, as the oil pipes are still in the way. Please advise.
-
Have you removed oil pipe at filter end? 19mm crows foot does nicely. Allows for better movement of oil cooler pipes :y
-
Have you removed oil pipe at filter end? 19mm crows foot does nicely. Allows for better movement of oil cooler pipes :y
Yes. I wonder if I should be more tough with them - wiggle and pull from below while wife pushed from above. The longer pipe oil cooler end obviously will not go far.
-
Have you removed oil pipe at filter end? 19mm crows foot does nicely. Allows for better movement of oil cooler pipes :y
Yes. I wonder if I should be more tough with them - wiggle and pull from below while wife pushed from above. The longer pipe oil cooler end obviously will not go far.
What ever you do, don't bend them. Whole world of pain then, free them off next to oil filter/crank sensor, should give enough room to move oil cooler pipes out of the way.
-
Have you removed oil pipe at filter end? 19mm crows foot does nicely. Allows for better movement of oil cooler pipes :y
Yes. I wonder if I should be more tough with them - wiggle and pull from below while wife pushed from above. The longer pipe oil cooler end obviously will not go far.
What ever you do, don't bend them. Whole world of pain then, free them off next to oil filter/crank sensor, should give enough room to move oil cooler pipes out of the way.
Thanks for that advice. This job is getting ever more difficult. Maybe one of them is still located in the hole in the block. Tomorrow I will check they are both free, then try again.
-
Cant remember 100% but dont the pipes have a clip that holds them together. Black rubber with a metal clip tht holds them. Like i said could be wrong :o
-
Cant remember 100% but dont the pipes have a clip that holds them together. Black rubber with a metal clip tht holds them. Like i said could be wrong :o
Correct. :y
-
Cant remember 100% but dont the pipes have a clip that holds them together. Black rubber with a metal clip tht holds them. Like i said could be wrong :o
Correct. :y
Could not see a clip. The crank sensor lead seemed to be in the way, so I cut it and removed it. Not much better. I can now see a Torx male bolt on LHS of pipe, and feel one lower down. However, access is grim. I cannot believe Haynes would have ruled this an engine in car job on this basis. If I do get the pipe off I shall never get it on again.
Looking from below, a heat shield on LHS exhaust down pipe seems to be in the way. Picture follows. I am tempted to hammer it up out of the way, or saw it off. Please advise.
[img src="https://www.dropbox.com/s/dedr22jj5ealsx0/DSCF2266.jpg"][/img]
-
If you're aiming to remove the manifold, you need to drop the exhaust any way, might help access :-\
-
If you're aiming to remove the manifold, you need to drop the exhaust any way, might help access :-\
Thanks for the thought. I was only planning to drop the RH side down pipe, possible removing it. It's the LH side heat shield in the way, and that's attached to the LH manifold, which Haynes says is very hard to remove, either engine out or head off. I keep feeling I am missing something. It is a 4 spanner job to Haynes. I have done lots of 4 spanner jobs. I fear this time I have met my Waterloo.
-
With my wife pushing the oil pipes backwards, I could see from below that what was obstructing their movement backwards was the heatshield. I tried bashing it with a drift, but it is springy. I suppose I need to get hold of it and bend it out of the way. I can't imagine how to do that. Possibly attach something to it and haul from above. All suggestions appreciated.
-
If it's the off side manifold you are doing there is no need to remove the oil cooler pipes ;)
-
If it's the off side manifold you are doing there is no need to remove the oil cooler pipes ;)
Is that right? Haynes says I must, and I cannot see how else I can remove the transfer pipe. Please enlighten me.
-
Remove the coolant bridge instead and use a long 8mm socket on the torx bolts of the transfer pipe. I must have done about half a dozen like that :y
-
Remove the coolant bridge instead and use a long 8mm socket on the torx bolts of the transfer pipe. I must have done about half a dozen like that :y
And you obviously managed to get it back on again afterwards. Thank you very much. I am learning that on the V6 engines one has to work by feel half the time. I have unbolted the two oil pipes, and can see the LH bolt, and feel the RH bolt. You say a long 8mm socket is the tool to use. I shall persevere.
-
Remove the coolant bridge instead and use a long 8mm socket on the torx bolts of the transfer pipe. I must have done about half a dozen like that :y
Am I right in assuming there are only two bolts?
-
2 bolts hold the coolant transfer pipe to the back of the block.
As advised 8mm deep socket..I found it easier to put a large piece of foam on the front slam panle then kneel on that ,allowing you to get to the back of the engine.Suggest a mirror on a flexy shaft first just so you get the idea of what you need to work on.
Coolant bridge must be removed,along with dropping the exhaust downpipe from the manifold.Leave oil cooler pipes well alone as they don,t require moving/undoing.
Once both transfer pipe bolts are removed you will be able to wiggle and thread the main coolant pipe clear,then you can get onto all the manifold studs/nuts.
I assume you have removed all the bolts from the heat sheilds as 1 is right at the back and difficult to see....as with most of this job it is ackward and done by feel.
-
For a bit better access and elbow room you could whip the wipers and scuttle off. Only takes 2 minutes
-
2 bolts hold the coolant transfer pipe to the back of the block.
As advised 8mm deep socket..I found it easier to put a large piece of foam on the front slam panle then kneel on that ,allowing you to get to the back of the engine.Suggest a mirror on a flexy shaft first just so you get the idea of what you need to work on.
Coolant bridge must be removed,along with dropping the exhaust downpipe from the manifold.Leave oil cooler pipes well alone as they don,t require moving/undoing.
Once both transfer pipe bolts are removed you will be able to wiggle and thread the main coolant pipe clear,then you can get onto all the manifold studs/nuts.
I assume you have removed all the bolts from the heat sheilds as 1 is right at the back and difficult to see....as with most of this job it is ackward and done by feel.
Thanks for advice. I have removed both transfer pipe bolts, but I cannot wiggle the pipe clear. It seems well and truly stuck. Both ends are free. Is there a clamp somewhere? I cannot see one.
-
IIRc it is bolted to the engine lifting bracket on the side of the block, would guess you will have seen this though :-\
-
IIRc it is bolted to the engine lifting bracket on the side of the block, would guess you will have seen this though :-\
Thanks! No, I had not noticed that.