Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Broomies Mate on 29 October 2013, 18:56:26
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3.2 yadda yadda.
Haven't had chance to plug into the Chicken Chow Mein - But pedal test shows P0300.
Definite misfire on 1 cylinder... 5 seem to be working well.
Now - The reason for posting is thus;
I had this issue soon after I bought the car and it was COLD. Tonight is the first night it has been cold (since purchase) and the same fault has shown itself again.
I know the battery is on it's last legs and needs replacing, but could low voltage cause this problem?
If not, it won't be until the weekend where I can get my hands dirty and check the common problems - Plugs, Coil Packs etc.
Any thoughts?
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Had a similar issue, turned out the part of the coil pack inside the rubber boot had shattered and the boot was holding it all together.
new coil pack :y
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Had a similar issue, turned out the part of the coil pack inside the rubber boot had shattered and the boot was holding it all together.
new coil pack :y
Cheers Grif - If I remove the coil-pack, is it likely to fall to pieces?
I'd be reluctant to do that until I have a replacement. :-\
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If its just a split rubber boot that's the problem you should able to replace it. In fact Im sure I have some so if you find that's the problem give me a shout and I will send you one. :y
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Used coil pacs are something of a false economy IMO. Especially when they can be had at a factors for £70 odd if you ring round, quoting your best price so far.
Only way to tell is to pull the cp out and have a look. Oil, water, cracks etc but you know all that. Ime tick over is a bit border line on the Dbw engines so a tired battery might be enough to upset the eml. Tried Kevs battery diag guide?
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Handy tip
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90670.0
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Random misfire simply means a non specific misfure, ie summat not quite right but not enough to trigger an individual cylinder code... Is the wire still attached to the ballast resistor?
It lives behind and below the rear multiram valve, bolted to the 246 head.
The wire is brown, but most definitely NOT an earth... damhik :-[ but water from the scuttle corrodes it at the resistor, causing it to fail.
Solution... new resistor from VX,(2.6 Vectra B ones readily available), take the cable tray cover off and follow the wire into the loom. You'll find it crimped to the main power feed from the ecu to the coil packs... cut it 2" from the crimp, and solder 8" of new wire to it (sealing with either tape or heat shrink tube). Rebuild the plug using tother end and plug into new resistor.
Don't look for the resistor or wire when the ignition is on or the engine is running, as it connects directly to the coilpack feed...
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Random misfire simply means a non specific misfure, ie summat not quite right but not enough to trigger an individual cylinder code... Is the wire still attached to the ballast resistor?
It lives behind and below the rear multiram valve, bolted to the 246 head.
The wire is brown, but most definitely NOT an earth... damhik :-[ but water from the scuttle corrodes it at the resistor, causing it to fail.
Solution... new resistor from VX,(2.6 Vectra B ones readily available), take the cable tray cover off and follow the wire into the loom. You'll find it crimped to the main power feed from the ecu to the coil packs... cut it 2" from the crimp, and solder 8" of new wire to it (sealing with either tape or heat shrink tube). Rebuild the plug using tother end and plug into new resistor.
Don't look for the resistor or wire when the ignition is on or the engine is running, as it connects directly to the coilpack feed...
Thanks for that, Al. I had never heard of a ballast resistor in this context. Is there a similar thing on the pre-facelifts? Do all cars have them?
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Random misfire simply means a non specific misfure, ie summat not quite right but not enough to trigger an individual cylinder code... Is the wire still attached to the ballast resistor?
It lives behind and below the rear multiram valve, bolted to the 246 head.
The wire is brown, but most definitely NOT an earth... damhik :-[ but water from the scuttle corrodes it at the resistor, causing it to fail.
Solution... new resistor from VX,(2.6 Vectra B ones readily available), take the cable tray cover off and follow the wire into the loom. You'll find it crimped to the main power feed from the ecu to the coil packs... cut it 2" from the crimp, and solder 8" of new wire to it (sealing with either tape or heat shrink tube). Rebuild the plug using tother end and plug into new resistor.
Don't look for the resistor or wire when the ignition is on or the engine is running, as it connects directly to the coilpack feed...
Thanks for that, Al. I had never heard of a ballast resistor in this context. Is there a similar thing on the pre-facelifts? Do all cars have them?
never knew that. always learning.
bought my last bosch coil pack from Vauxhall world parts. Was about £78 delivered me thinks.
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Chris, Albs, Al - Thank You so much for your replies.
I'll check everything out on Saturday.
Interestingly, I started the car tonight and it was running fine - EML still on but no missfire. Popped to the shop (less than a mile) and no issues. Walked out of the shop and started the car, Missfire!
I think I'm looking at coil pack or the ballast (of which I knew nothing about, special thanks to Al for that).
I'll certainly report back when I can investigate this properly.
Thanks again guys - Excellent help! :y
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My issue was 0300 and 0306,and was finally cured with a new loom, but not before trying coil packs, Maf sensor, throttle body, injectors (and loom), plugs, ECU and ballast resistor :y
The ballast resistor serves to prevent electrical interference. If you can hear a whine that increases with rpm whilst listening to the radio then it's the first place to be looking. Because it connects directly to the coilpack feed, disconnecting it might be enough to upset the current to the coilpacks, causing the 0300 :y
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Mmmm I would expect a simple missfire to reset the light once it's restarted.
Is it worth a pedal trick again to see what else has popped up? Might just be pre cat codes though.
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Cheers guys - Pre cat codes have been resolved since the addition of another pair of lambdas (Thanks again Albs).
I've got a funky feeling this is a water ingress issue. :-\
Until Saturday, I'm clutching at straws to be fair - But it's invaluable to hear from the guys in the know! :y
EDIT: Pre cat, not post cat - Sorry Chris - Typing before thinking, again! ;D
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Cheers guys - Pre cat codes have been resolved since the addition of another pair of lambdas (Thanks again Albs).
I've got a funky feeling this is a water ingress issue. :-\
Until Saturday, I'm clutching at straws to be fair - But it's invaluable to hear from the guys in the know! :y
EDIT: Pre cat, not post cat - Sorry Chris - Typing before thinking, again! ;D
Sorry, can you clarify? Lambdas replaced? Or lambdas relocated? ...to fix the pre cat codes 0420/0430
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Just gave Jusme's 3.2 a check over with simiar symptoms and the spark plug gap was huge 1.8mm. Could only adjust as a temporary measure and advise replacement once we had some available so check the plugs
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Just gave Jusme's 3.2 a check over with simiar symptoms and the spark plug gap was huge 1.8mm. Could only adjust as a temporary measure and advise replacement once we had some available so check the plugs
Twins opened up I presume? Or worn?
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Just gave Jusme's 3.2 a check over with simiar symptoms and the spark plug gap was huge 1.8mm. Could only adjust as a temporary measure and advise replacement once we had some available so check the plugs
Twins opened up I presume? Or worn?
Although I know I put quads in it, which I'm told are not adjustable.
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Ah. New plugs after the re build maybe?
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Cheers guys - Pre cat codes have been resolved since the addition of another pair of lambdas (Thanks again Albs).
I've got a funky feeling this is a water ingress issue. :-\
Until Saturday, I'm clutching at straws to be fair - But it's invaluable to hear from the guys in the know! :y
EDIT: Pre cat, not post cat - Sorry Chris - Typing before thinking, again! ;D
Sorry, can you clarify? Lambdas replaced? Or lambdas relocated? ...to fix the pre cat codes 0420/0430
with the amount of 3.0L cats that have popped up lately,just fit them with relocated lamdas. Loads better, not as restricted as 3.2 ones.
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Just gave Jusme's 3.2 a check over with simiar symptoms and the spark plug gap was huge 1.8mm. Could only adjust as a temporary measure and advise replacement once we had some available so check the plugs
Twins opened up I presume? Or worn?
Although I know I put quads in it, which I'm told are not adjustable.
Nope quads.....
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Woo. Worn down then?
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Woo. Worn down then?
Yes, extremely!
All I could do was a temp adjustment to get it running and prove the diagnosis
I noted that the twins have a thicker more robust electrode
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Ironic the quads are for longer life, do we know how long these were in/miles?
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And/or is the LPG accelerating the wear?
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And/or is the LPG accelerating the wear?
I would say, definately
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And/or is the LPG accelerating the wear?
Which reminds me, I think the Bullet's plugs must be 50+k old, I must get some, as they are twins :-[
PITA that my local dealer isn't TC, but I'm working on a solution :)
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A bit of good fortune tonight - If in Ice Mode, the missfire dissapears, so any knowledge on that front would be helpful!
Bad fortune - A screw in the OSF tyre very close to the sidewall. A 600mile old Conti down the drain.
FML!!
I'll have a look at the missfire issue properly tomorrow. Hoping it's a coil pack. Wish me luck!!
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Am I right in thinking that twin electrode plugs are preferable on cars with a lpg conversion due to the wider flame front ?
Also Al, got any pictures of this ballast resistor and its position ?
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Am I right in thinking that twin electrode plugs are preferable on cars with a lpg conversion due to the wider flame front ?
Also Al, got any pictures of this ballast resistor and its position ?
If he hasn't, I'll be sure to take pics tomorrow and get them online!
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ex taxi alhor=Broomies Mate link=topic=118939.msg1510693#msg1510693 date=1383337042]
Am I right in thinking that twin electrode plugs are preferable on cars with a lpg conversion due to the wider flame front ?
Also Al, got any pictures of this ballast resistor and its position ?
If he hasn't, I'll be sure to take pics tomorrow and get them online!
[/quote]
Buggered if I can find one anywhere ::)
But have a read of this...
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=82787.0 (http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=82787.0)
Then this...
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=84326.0 (http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=84326.0)
And finally...
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=97070.0 (http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=97070.0)
Found it :y
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=109786.msg1376756#msg1376756 (http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=109786.msg1376756#msg1376756)
One small part in making it run better, finally cured with two loom changes :y
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Well that's a relief.
Rain water in the plug-wells on 1-3-5. All mopped up and she is better.
I think I may have cooked the coil-pack though as still misfiring under heavy load. I'll give it a day or two to dry out properly under normal driving conditions and then go from there.
Plugs are quads and bloody horrible things, I swear the gaps are too big, and two of them were loose!!!! - I'll put a set of twins in next weekend. :y
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Seal up the hole around the wiper spindle... And may as well seal the metal lip of the scuttle drain to the scuttle itself whilst there..?
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Seal up the hole around the wiper spindle... And may as well seal the metal lip of the scuttle drain to the scuttle itself whilst there..?
It does seem a prudent course of action. It's quite easy to see how water can get in the plug-wells and they were full of it! ;D
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Sounds like a nice easy fix for a change :y personally I would fit quads, as I'm not convinced that my saga wasn't related at least in part to the fact that that was the one and only time I fitted twins :-\
Changing them every 20k doesn't give them chance to wear or work loose either, so I don't suffer any long term problems with them :y
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After thought, insure the windscreen seal is firmly clipped onto the bottom edge of the screen. A wiggle/tug of the scuttle will confirm.
Most of my prefered 3.2's have had this problem.
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Random misfire simply means a non specific misfure, ie summat not quite right but not enough to trigger an individual cylinder code... Is the wire still attached to the ballast resistor?
It lives behind and below the rear multiram valve, bolted to the 246 head.
The wire is brown, but most definitely NOT an earth... damhik :-[ but water from the scuttle corrodes it at the resistor, causing it to fail.
Now I remember where I last met ignition ballast resistors. On coil ignition cars, to give a big spark on starting, the coil was a 9 volt coil, and a resistor and a relay dropped the coil voltage to 9 volts during normal running. I have not heard of one before with electronic ignition.
Solution... new resistor from VX,(2.6 Vectra B ones readily available), take the cable tray cover off and follow the wire into the loom. You'll find it crimped to the main power feed from the ecu to the coil packs... cut it 2" from the crimp, and solder 8" of new wire to it (sealing with either tape or heat shrink tube). Rebuild the plug using tother end and plug into new resistor.
Don't look for the resistor or wire when the ignition is on or the engine is running, as it connects directly to the coilpack feed...
Thanks for that, Al. I had never heard of a ballast resistor in this context. Is there a similar thing on the pre-facelifts? Do all cars have them?
never knew that. always learning.
bought my last bosch coil pack from Vauxhall world parts. Was about £78 delivered me thinks.
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My last post went astray.
I tried to say that I last heard of ignition ballast resistors on my older cars with coil ignition. Some had 9 volt coils to give a big spark while starting, then when running normally coil voltage was dropped to 9 volts with a ballast resistor and a relay to avoid coil overheating. I did not know they were still used in the days of electronic ignition.
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I might have got the name of it awry but if you follow the single brown wire from the back of the cable tray towards the bulkhead you will find either a plug or a loose wire :y Where the plug connects is where this...
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=109786.msg1376756#msg1376756 (http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=109786.msg1376756#msg1376756)
...lives :y
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I might have got the name of it awry but if you follow the single brown wire from the back of the cable tray towards the bulkhead you will find either a plug or a loose wire :y Where the plug connects is where this...
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=109786.msg1376756#msg1376756 (http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=109786.msg1376756#msg1376756)
...lives :y
It looks like a radio interference suppression device. Rob G says only fitted on 2.6/3.2, i.e. cars with individual coil packs to each cylinder. I suffered radio interference on a 2.5 last year after replacing faulty plug leads to cure a misfire. The new leads (e-bay sourced) cured the misfire all right, but caused radio interference. I replaced them with leads off scrapped 3.0 and the fault was cured.
In the 1960s radio interference was a nightmare. We used to put resistors in the HT lead from coil to distributor and chokes into the power lead to the radios. Resistive plug leads came in later on. I imagine on the 2.5 they are resistive. Some plug leads had copper wire running down the middle of them - never failed but caused interference. Modern leads seem to be carbon or silicon track and resistive - no interference but inclined to fail.
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It is indeed a suppression capacitor across the 12V supply to the DBW coil packs.