Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega Electrical and Audio Help => Topic started by: mike311 on 10 November 2013, 18:53:59
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Hi all can anyone help, I have a 2.6 elite on a 51 plate, drives ok but both the TC and the car with spanner lghts are on all the time, any body give me any pointers or is it off to a dealer to sort
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Need to read the fault codes there's a guide on here :y
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before you ask---http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90594.0
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Is speedo still working?
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before you ask---http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90594.0
already looked :y
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Is speedo still working?
yep speedo still working
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Sorry may confuse you with user name I'm using my old profile now and not mike311
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Is speedo still working?
yep speedo still working
Do a 'pedal test' and see what codes you get :y :y
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Was going to do pedal test, spoke to mechanic at work going to clear all codes, cause there could be some old codes, and then see what comes up running it for a day
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Just did pedal test, got 1 code '2100' there was more codes but can't watch and count and write the down, another code was '2107' but maybe 8 or 6
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shouldn't it start with 0*** on the facelift?
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shouldn't it start with 0*** on the facelift?
I have no idea but it started flashing with 2 flashes first.
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if it blink's 10 times that = 0, and say 3 blink's = 3, then another 10 = 0, then the same that's 0300 which would be random misfire for example
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The first was just 2
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U2100 CAN-BUS malfunction?
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if you can get a code then i could help, also go on ebay, i got my reader £20 free del and works great and clears the codes.
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i thought you had a face-lift omega which was obd11
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i thought you had a face-lift omega which was obd11
its a 2.6 elite on 51 plate
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right good that's same as mine (2001 elite estate manual) im bit confused because your describing the pre omega codes, any way it flashes you count them when it has a slight pause that's the 1st number and so on
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right did you have the self check code first which is 12 x 3 times which is normal then you get the real code after that.
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Pedal test doesn't cover abs ecu etc I believe, mainly engine codes. Likely to be duff abs ecu or abs sensor(s). You need a Tech2 to read the codes ;)
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Also got 2106 and 2108 no com with transmission control and no communication ABS/TC, any idea where to start looking
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Did not get that self check, went straight to 2100 code, also mine is auto transmission
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i will do some fishing around.
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having a look around, you need to contact bba-reman as it look's like your ABS Control Module may have packed up, if so you can send it to them and they repair them,
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having a look around, you need to contact bba-reman as it look's like your ABS Control Module may have packed up, if so you can send it to them and they repair them,
would have thought abs light would be on rather than tc light
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abs module/speed sensor are linked as they work of the same sensor
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abs module/speed sensor are linked as they work of the same sensor
:y will look into it
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u said a few things 1, tc light on, 2, code's saying no com, but no specific fault 3,it's pretty common on these cars
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having a look around, you need to contact bba-reman as it look's like your ABS Control Module may have packed up, if so you can send it to them and they repair them,
Said that a few posts ago ::)
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having a look around, you need to contact bba-reman as it look's like your ABS Control Module may have packed up, if so you can send it to them and they repair them,
Said that a few posts ago ::)
I got that 1 ::) :y
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Borrowed a code reader of a friend its obd2, and when I plug it in it displays connection error, also as I plug it in the stereo turns on, (this is with ignition off)
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Ign needs to be on.
You need a decent code reader, not the cheap tat, as you need to look in engine ecu, abs ecu and tcm for this one.
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Sorry it was ignition off first, then to turn ign on after code reader had been connected, then it tried to talk to car which is when it came up with conection error.
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the (cheap tat one's) granted cant go into depth in the car's brain but they can read and delete most faults and if its more serious than it warrant's a main dealer anyway. a £20 reader does work and does what a £300 one does but without the price tag, u read it, fix it, delete it, job done. as it is im up £40 (vaux charge £60 reader cost £20) from 1st job.
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So looking round the forum, more than likely abs ecu fail, thinking of second hand part as temp fix and send mine off for refurb, where do I find part number to get same unit,
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Ive got one from a 3.2 auto here.Not sure if it will be suitable,but if you get the part number etc. we could compare and see if its the same. Are you planning on just swapping the ECU or the whole pump including ECU ?
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So looking round the forum, more than likely abs ecu fail, thinking of second hand part as temp fix and send mine off for refurb, where do I find part number to get same unit,
Helpfully on bottom of ecu where you can't see it 8)
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Ive got one from a 3.2 auto here.Not sure if it will be suitable,but if you get the part number etc. we could compare and see if its the same. Are you planning on just swapping the ECU or the whole pump including ECU ?
hoping to just swap ecu, also sounds about right for my luck with where the part number is!. Going to look at the weekend, as it is too dark and bloody wet of a night to do after work will let you know
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So looking round the forum, more than likely abs ecu fail, thinking of second hand part as temp fix and send mine off for refurb, where do I find part number to get same unit,
I wouldn't be too hasty. As said, you need to get diagnostic information from all 3 ECUs to get the full picture. The classic ABS ECU failure causes both TC and ABS lights to come on, and total failure of the ECU including speedometer output. You are not seeing these symptoms therefore your ABS ecu is most probably fine.
In my experience, if ONLY a TC fault is reported by the lights, then it's a problem with communication between the gearbox, engine and ABS ECU since all 3 have to communicate for traction control to work. ABS functionality is stand-alone, so if this isn't indicating a fault, the ABS ECU itself is seeing no fault.
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Good thinking. Get it to a tech2 with someone who knows how to use it,before throwing parts at it. :y
Kendal is a bit awkward. Its either down to Nottingham to see Fuse 18,or up to Fife o see Hotel 21.
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[quote
I wouldn't be too hasty. As said, you need to get diagnostic information from all 3 ECUs to get the full picture. The classic ABS ECU failure causes both TC and ABS lights to come on, and total failure of the ECU including speedometer output. You are not seeing these symptoms therefore your ABS ecu is most probably fine.
In my experience, if ONLY a TC fault is reported by the lights, then it's a problem with communication between the gearbox, engine and ABS ECU since all 3 have to communicate for traction control to work. ABS functionality is stand-alone, so if this isn't indicating a fault, the ABS ECU itself is seeing no fault.
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my symptoms- TC light on constant, car with spanner light constant, speedo works fine,
gearbox in drive feels like it is in winter /snow mode, but using first gear picks up no problem. Also no sport mode and no winter/snow mode, feels like gearbox running in a safe mode. Engine runs fine, TC button on dash does nothing . Think that is everything, when we did pedal test got codes-- 2100 2106 2108 and 0500 twice, does paper clip test do same thing as pedal test?
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Have you tried a new switch before you get too involved :-\
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Have you tried a new switch before you get too involved :-\
no haven't, but was wondering how the switch comes off, thinking of having a look at it over the weekend, along with other jobs to do, it is on the check list ,
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Carefully pops out :y
This might help...
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90507.0 (http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90507.0)
Shows you what to expect, but TC does simply pull out :y
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Can I try 1 of the other switches to test
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It sounds to me like the gearbox has gone into limp mode. Might be worth taking a look at that. Again, you need to get codes read from the systems really. Do the lights by the gear selector accurately reflect the position of the stick without any flickering or anything?
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The lights apear to be ok, no flickering
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Can I try 1 of the other switches to test
Needs to be another TC switch :y
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Got TC switch off, can it be tested with a multi meter, no matter which terminal I touch and press the switch the meter does not give audible sound
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Yup pins 11 and 12 should give a reading... if not, switch is goosed :y
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(http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc290/M0RMH/20131116_131306.jpg)]
hopefully the pic has worked, this is the back of the switch, to me it doesn't look as though it has enough pins, can anyone confirm this, as I guess buttons are interchangeable on the front
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I quoted the pin numbers from haynes...
One pin is power to the switch.
One is the return to ground.
One is the lamp that illuminates the switch when ignition is on.
Connecting the first two will only give a current when the switch is pressed.
Connecting the first and third will do nothing.
Connecting the second and third will produce a constant current.
Switches not interchangeable.
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Ok, just thought that there wasn't enough pins, not had car long so don't know the history
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Well the switch is fine, any connections around gearbox I can check, the pedal test gave- codes 2100 2106 2108, if I could be pointed in the right direction so I'm not checking things that have nothing to do with what I'm looking for. ::)
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Got it sorted, easy fix the end, :y
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Job well jobbed :y
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Got it sorted, easy fix the end, :y
Glad you fixed it - its worth sharing the solution with others on here ;)
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Glad you fixed it - its worth sharing the solution with others on here ;)
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Had it plugged into diagnostic got the codes 2100 2105 2108 connection errors, checked all wheel sensors, appeared to be ok, checked main ecu connections all ok, lights still on. Managed to get connections off abs ecu, looked like a bit of water ingress bit hard to see, used some contact cleaner replaced fitting bingo!! Must have been enough to make a poor connection, :y
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Nice one. :y
It might be worth checking the rubber seal on that connector in case it leaks again. Often, moistening it with a bit of silicone grease before reassembly will help, just avoid getting it on the pins.