Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: LC0112G on 19 November 2013, 15:23:21
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Hi,
I'm wondering if anyone here is still loaning out a 30XE camshaft locking tool kit?
I've just been looking through the service history on my car. It appears it was last done in March 2007 at 135K miles. It's now nearly 2014, and on 209K miles. So I guess its probably wise to so it before an upcomming 2000 mile trip to the French alps and back.
Vx main dealer has quoted me £200 labour + £170 ish for the parts - she said it's 3.1 hours, but as a special offer to a loyal customer they'll keep it under £400 incl parts. Now I probably can do the job myself if I can be bothered, but I would still need to obtain the locking tool.
I can collect and return anywhere within a 100 mile radius of Yeovil.
Cheers
Malcolm
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bit far away for me tbh. :-\
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I am about 70 miles away but would require a substantial cash deposit against its return. Its been used twice by me to change the belt on my former 3L. Any use??
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Postage probably too expensive :-X
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There doesn't even seem to be any decent second hand kits on eBay either ???
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There doesn't even seem to be any decent second hand kits on eBay either ???
Very few and expensive compared to while back.
Sunday auction, you never know.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vauxhall-Saab-GM-V6-Timing-Tool-Set-/231095215023?pt=UK_Measuring_Tools_Levels&hash=item35ce5923af
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Trouble is, if buying the kit ends up costing ££££, I may as well just let the dealer do it. I've ordered the DVD from the Shop - so I'm already comitted to the extent of £3+p&p ;D
What I can't seem to find on here is a list of parts I may need to buy. From perusing EPC, it appears there may be a kit (p/n 9120501) although this only applies up to engine number 08300418 (my engine number is 0849xxxx). The picture in EPC shows the belt, the tensioner, 3 bolts and a washer. It doesn't show any rollers. So far my shopping list consists of...
9128500 Timing belt
90572529 Timing Tensioner
11093811 M10x70 Guide Roller screw
11094031 M10x60 Torx screw
11094021 M10x40 Torx screw (3 off)
90572531 11mm Washer
90543739 Roller
90453277 Water Pump
90354908 Water Pump seal ring
So what else do I need to consider? Any magic glues, sealants etc?
Cheers
Malcolm
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The belt comes as a kit so should have everything you need, iirc. :y
I'll find out next month when I do mine ;D
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why don't you buy the lock kit and then resell it. :)
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I am bang on 100 miles away, as long as a deposit is left for it's return you may use it :y
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why don't you buy the lock kit and then resell it. :)
Its what i did when i ended up with a spare one.
Made on it too.
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This might do it.
http://www.buypartsby.co.uk/details/VAUXHALL/OMEGA/3.0/1999/__/54/CT990K1/timing-belt-kit/
I think I'm right in saying V6 water pump doesn't have to be changed with cambelt if it's OK because it's aux belt driven.
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This might do it.
http://www.buypartsby.co.uk/details/VAUXHALL/OMEGA/3.0/1999/__/54/CT990K1/timing-belt-kit/
I think I'm right in saying V6 water pump doesn't have to be changed with cambelt if it's OK because it's aux belt driven.
:y :y
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This might do it.
http://www.buypartsby.co.uk/details/VAUXHALL/OMEGA/3.0/1999/__/54/CT990K1/timing-belt-kit/
I think I'm right in saying V6 water pump doesn't have to be changed with cambelt if it's OK because it's aux belt driven.
:y :y
Yes, i know, but this is a 209K mile engine with no known replacement so far, so if I'm in there it seems sensible to me to bite the bullet.
There is known to be a squeal and metal 'swarf' on one of the rollers (aux belt i hope!), so I'd like that fixed too.
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why don't you buy the lock kit and then resell it. :)
Its what i did when i ended up with a spare one.
Made on it too.
I never sell tools. Once I've shelled out I keep it for next time - even if there is unlikely to be a next time. And I get really angry with myself when I know I've got a tool for the job, but can't find it. I've tried very very hard to avoid learning how to fix Omegas (had 4 over 8 years) because i spend half my youth/middle age fixing my LC.
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This might do it.
http://www.buypartsby.co.uk/details/VAUXHALL/OMEGA/3.0/1999/__/54/CT990K1/timing-belt-kit/
I think I'm right in saying V6 water pump doesn't have to be changed with cambelt if it's OK because it's aux belt driven.
:y :y
Yes, i know, but this is a 209K mile engine with no known replacement so far, so if I'm in there it seems sensible to me to bite the bullet.
There is known to be a squeal and metal 'swarf' on one of the rollers (aux belt i hope!), so I'd like that fixed too.
belt tensoner pulley or alternator bearing-but you probably know that anyway and if doing cam belt-yes you would find it easier to do pump then--TBH I would do pump too :y
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Ok - I'll keep this thread running as things progress (or regress!). Thanks for all the kind offers of help, and I've now managed to secure the loan of a timing kit from someone known to you all who shall remain nameless unless they want to grass themselves up. ;D
This afternoon i watched the DVD for the second time to gen up on ways to screw the job up. Shocking - absolutely dreadfull. Those legs are a disgrace :D
Anyway tonight started out with me deciding to do an spark plug change and investigation into my oil leak. This involved plenium off, and before I knew where I was, I'd stripped it down and was looking at a cam belt. I guess I'm now at the event horizon - the point of no return. I didn't remove the belt because the cam lock kit isn't with me yet, but what I've found so far is...
1) The rubber antivibration mount on the middle of the air injection rail is FUBAR.
2) The one way valve in the air injection rail is FUBAR
3) A previous gorrilla has beaten me to the opportunity of snapping off all the clips on the wiring loom plastic channel - it was held together with tie wraps.
4) The squeaky bearing appears to be the secondary belt tensioner pulley.
5) The Aux belt is aftermarket, and on the verge of becoming an ex-aux belt. It's cracked and wasn't tight enough for me to undo the A/C compressor? PAS pump? screws without locking it.
6) the Crank AV damper looks OK - well it's in one piece at least.
7) I need a T-20 hex drive - turning the crank with a T-20 hand spanner is painful when it slips off.
So before I go and get raped by the dealer tomorrow, does anyone have a known good second hand aux belt tensioner, an air injection one way valve, or the plastic cable trunking? I can pay by Paypal and/or Direct bank transfer.
Cheers
Malcolm
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Sorry, my half decent selection of spares (and tools) were lost in the fire :'(
For tensioner, dealer does supply the pulley on its own for about £25, but will deny it in favour of a £50 tensioner.
Sometimes, the old one can be recovered by greasing up the bearings, depends how far its gone.
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unless they want to grass themselves up. ;D
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::) ::) ::)
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Ok - I'll keep this thread running as things progress (or regress!). Thanks for all the kind offers of help, and I've now managed to secure the loan of a timing kit from someone known to you all who shall remain nameless unless they want to grass themselves up. ;D
This afternoon i watched the DVD for the second time to gen up on ways to screw the job up. Shocking - absolutely dreadfull. Those legs are a disgrace :D
Anyway tonight started out with me deciding to do an spark plug change and investigation into my oil leak. This involved plenium off, and before I knew where I was, I'd stripped it down and was looking at a cam belt. I guess I'm now at the event horizon - the point of no return. I didn't remove the belt because the cam lock kit isn't with me yet, but what I've found so far is...
1) The rubber antivibration mount on the middle of the air injection rail is FUBAR.
2) The one way valve in the air injection rail is FUBAR
3) A previous gorrilla has beaten me to the opportunity of snapping off all the clips on the wiring loom plastic channel - it was held together with tie wraps.
4) The squeaky bearing appears to be the secondary belt tensioner pulley.
5) The Aux belt is aftermarket, and on the verge of becoming an ex-aux belt. It's cracked and wasn't tight enough for me to undo the A/C compressor? PAS pump? screws without locking it.
6) the Crank AV damper looks OK - well it's in one piece at least.
7) I need a T-20 hex drive - turning the crank with a T-20 hand spanner is painful when it slips off.
So before I go and get raped by the dealer tomorrow, does anyone have a known good second hand aux belt tensioner, an air injection one way valve, or the plastic cable trunking? I can pay by Paypal and/or Direct bank transfer.
Cheers
Malcolm
should have both of the above, let me look in my den in the morning. :y
edit, may have a good pulley aswell now im thinking about it.
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Sorry, my half decent selection of spares (and tools) were lost in the fire :'(
Sorry to hear about your misfortune
For tensioner, dealer does supply the pulley on its own for about £25, but will deny it in favour of a £50 tensioner.
Thanks - Forewarned is forarmed. EPC says the pully is 9157962, complete tensioner is 90528760.
Sometimes, the old one can be recovered by greasing up the bearings, depends how far its gone.
Yeah, but it's the swarf that worries me.
Was going to edit my original post to add part numbers from EPC, but I can't - something to do with exceeding the time allowed! So far on my shopping list I have...
9157962 - Auxillary belt tensioner pully
91126388 - Auxillary drive belt (ident FX)
90469782 - Secondary air injection one way valve
90160351 - Secondary air injection anti-vibration mount
9281374 - Secondary air injection anti-vibration mount
90543277 - Water Pump
Plus a cambelt kit which isn't listed in my copy of EPC (EPC2000).
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My aux tensioner pulley became noisy due to a noisy bearing two years ago. I repacked it with grease and all was well.
However, it let go catastrophically with no warning last Friday night,taking the belt with it. I suppose an extended life of two years cant be grumbled at,but the fact it didn't start whining again before disintegrating now worries me a bit.
Why the hell are they made from plastic anyway ? Seems silly to me.
If you don't get sorted with the parts from offers already made, I may have some of them among my spares,so give me a shout if you get stuck. :y
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Another 3 hours spent tonight. I set the notebook up in the workshop and went through the re-assembly step by step. Some observations...
Comment #1 : The latest GM cam-belts don't have any markings on them. No direction of rotation, and no alignment marks for the crank and cam centers, nothing. This scared the willeys out of me. I think I've got it right, but I won't know till I try to start it (hopefully tomorrow)
Comment #2 : It took me at least 10 goes to get the timing lined up right - or what I think is right.
Comment #3 : My auxillary belt tensioner doesn't have the bracket for the electrical cable ducting to clip into. Probably discarded by the last gorilla to work on it. And The bolts are cap-heads, not torx.
Comment #4 : There is a cheat in the DVD. Somewhere around 8 minutes into the re-assembly, the sheared off rubber AV mount for the secondary air injecton disapears from the bracket it's mounted in. I sat for a good 15 minutes waiting for mine to disappear, but it's still there >:(
I abandoned work at 9pm. Just got to put the bagpipes and plenium back on, so should know tomorrow how much of a botch I've made of it.
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as long as you have used the locking kit & got it set up correctly then you should be ok. i always rotate & re-check, then again several times to be sure. :y
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Yeah, Gm belts haven't had markings for a few years, and some of the Conti and Gates ones are wrong. Ignore markings, go by the locking/timing kit :y
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Another 3 hours spent tonight. I set the notebook up in the workshop and went through the re-assembly step by step. Some observations...
Comment #1 : The latest GM cam-belts don't have any markings on them. No direction of rotation, and no alignment marks for the crank and cam centers, nothing. This scared the willeys out of me. I think I've got it right, but I won't know till I try to start it (hopefully tomorrow)
Comment #2 : It took me at least 10 goes to get the timing lined up right - or what I think is right.
Comment #3 : My auxillary belt tensioner doesn't have the bracket for the electrical cable ducting to clip into. Probably discarded by the last gorilla to work on it. And The bolts are cap-heads, not torx.
Comment #4 : There is a cheat in the DVD. Somewhere around 8 minutes into the re-assembly, the sheared off rubber AV mount for the secondary air injecton disapears from the bracket it's mounted in. I sat for a good 15 minutes waiting for mine to disappear, but it's still there >:(
I abandoned work at 9pm. Just got to put the bagpipes and plenium back on, so should know tomorrow how much of a botch I've made of it.
If that refers to cable tray, then correct bolts are cap heads ;)
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Oh, and WRT to the DVD, omebody should apologise for those legs of Fuse18/Marks DTM Calib ;D
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Oh, and WRT to the DVD, omebody should apologise for those legs of Fuse18/Marks DTM Calib ;D
.. And think yourself lucky it doesn't have a Loo-Knee sound track. ::)
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Oh, and WRT to the DVD, omebody should apologise for those legs of Fuse18/Marks DTM Calib ;D
.. And think yourself lucky it doesn't have a Loo-Knee sound track. ::)
you dont meen rick ghastly per chance. :D
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All Together now....
Never gonna give you up, never gonna let you down, never gonna turn around and desert you........
You really really don't want to explore my musical tastes, as those of you from 'the other place' will know ;)
I was trying to work out the film location - sounds like Tiger Moths in several plaves on the DVD, so somewhere in the Duxford or Shuttleworth area?
Anyway, back on topic started it up yesterday evening. A few strange noises at first, but soon settled down. Sounds more roarty than I remember, possible passenger side exhaust manifold problems?, but then again i haven't spent much timemwith my head under the bonnet, so perhaps i'm hearing things that are normal.
Haven't had a chance to drive it yet due to other work I've commenced and not completed - hopefully tomorrow.
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You really really don't want to explore my musical tastes, as those of you from 'the other place' will know ;) ....
Royaume-Uni nil points ....... ::)
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Ok, have done a couple of test drives. Had an EML on the first run - TC74 and TC59 (plus TC12 and TC31).
TC59 was easily sorted - the plug on the valve had popped off at some stage during re-assembly.
TC74 I've had before - suspect there is something iffey in the plug to the MAF. Anyway, unplugged it, wiggled a few things and plugged it back in and it now seems OK.
Final engine job was an oil change. All went well untill I went to refil the oil, when the oil filler neck broke away from the cam covers. One of the bayonet/screw on tab things has broken off :-X. Gaffer taped it back in position untill eBay supplies a replacement (should be tomorrow). If eBay fails, silicon glue.
Cam lock kit should be back in the post to it's owner tomorrow.
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You can fit the oil filler cap directly to the cam cover and do away with the filler neck until you get a new one. :y
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You can fit the oil filler cap directly to the cam cover and do away with the filler neck until you get a new one. :y
Good tip - thanks.