Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Car Chat => Topic started by: Webby the Bear on 11 December 2013, 21:36:24
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Evening my Omega loving chums :) cold tonight :(
Oooook, as I've mentioned previously I am currently doing steering and suspension at the minute at school and we got told today that we've got to go to Corby Tresham to use their alignment machine.... it's a state of the art one (apparently) and as we don't have any money spent on the Wellingborough campus have one we are going over for a tutorial and a play :y :y :y
The other great thing is they actually want us to put our own cars on it....free wheel alignment check off a dogs' bollerks machine :):):)
Now my car was last aligned by WIM and I know that the reason we take our cars over there is cos their research shows a different and better set up as opposed to the one the manufacturers recommend. SO. Below are the settings from the Haynes book of lies..... does anybody know what settings WIM use? :)
Front wheel alignment
Camber:
Saloon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . -1º40’ ± 45’
Maximum deviation, left to right wheel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1º
Castor:
Saloon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5º40’ ± 1º
Maximum deviation, left to right wheel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1º
Toe-in:
Saloon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0º10’ ± 10’
Variation with inner wheel turned in at 20‡ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1º40’ ± 45’
Rear wheel alignment
Camber:
Saloon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . -1º50’ ± 40’
Maximum deviation, left to right wheel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45’
Toe-in:
Saloon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . -0º20’ ± 10’
Maximum deviation, left to right wheel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25’
*Note: Measurements taken and adjustments made with all tyres inflated to their fully laden pressures and the vehicle laden, i.e. a 70kg load in each front seat and a full tank of fuel.
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Ps, I'm trying to find out the make and model of machine if anyone's interested :)
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Thos figs are strait out of the factory book, and are good when the car is new on new springs, dampers, and bushes, give it year, and lots of pot holes and kerbs and thos figs can be chucked away.
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Thos figs are strait out of the factory book, and are good when the car is new on new springs, dampers, and bushes, give it year, and lots of pot holes and kerbs and thos figs can be chucked away.
interesting. thanks gary....so do we know what WIM ''alter'' them to to take this in to consideration?
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If memory serves camber is a max of -1º 10' ...
EDIT :
just found my last printout.. Target values are ...
Rear camber -2º 05' +/- 0º 40' Cross 0º 00' +/-0º 04
Rear toe 0º 00' +/- 0º 45' Total 0º 20' +/- 0º 10'
Front camber -1º 10' +/- 0º 45' Cross 0º 00' +/- 1º 00'
Front caster 5º 40' +/- 1º 00 cross 0º 00' +/- 1º 00''
Track Diff angle -2º 00' +/- 0º 45'
Front Toe 0º 05' +/- 0º 05' total 0º 10' +/- 0º 10'
HTH :)
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If memory serves camber is a max of -1º 10' ...
EDIT :
just found my last printout.. Target values are ...
Rear camber -2º 05' +/- 0º 40'
Rear toe 0º 00' +/- 0º 45'
Front camber -1º 10' +/- 0º 45'
Front caster 5º 40' +/- 1º 00'
Track Diff angle -2º 00' +/- 0º 45'
Front Toe 0º 05' +/- 0º 05'
HTH :)
LEGEND! Thanks Entwood. i'll print this out so I don't forget and see what we're at on the machine.
After asking my school buddies on Facebook it appears it's a Snap-on 3d 4 wheel aligner :)
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Welcome .. edited the above to include the total/cross values as well
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Welcome .. edited the above to include the total/cross values as well
:y :y :y
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looking at the figures theres a noteable difference in camber at the front.
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looking at the figures theres a noteable difference in camber at the front.
I "believe" from talking to him, that the main changes are to both front and rear camber to take account of the age of the suspension, which, being older and softer sits the car lower.
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Can you take my car instead Webby as I've just replaced my wishbones and front struts so mine is probably shot to s*** now, despite my best efforts of taking measurements and marking the steering knuckle. ;)
Only kidding. Looks like a trip to WIM is on the cards. Shame mine had to be upset really as its always driven true and tyre wear was even across the band. Wonder what my settings will be as my suspensions all new. :-\
Hope you have a good, informative day out. :y
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cheers boys.
ill take photos and post up full details :):):)
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Point to note our figures are without any ballast added since most places in the UK don't have ballast. In addition the castor position is adjustable by moving the subframe.
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Fancy cutting your teeth on a 97 XJR Webby? ;D
About to finish replacing shocks springs and bushes all round. What a job that was!!
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Point to note our figures are without any ballast added since most places in the UK don't have ballast. In addition the castor position is adjustable by moving the subframe.
Thanks for confirming that... so no additional weight in the front or the boot? :)
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Point to note our figures are without any ballast added since most places in the UK don't have ballast. In addition the castor position is adjustable by moving the subframe.
Thanks for confirming that... so no additional weight in the front or the boot? :)
Nope. None.
Arguably a half full tank of full fuel, but I never pay any attention to that. Set the tyre pressures first though. Couple of psi won't matter but wide variations will give it I limp, so to speak. ;)
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Fancy cutting your teeth on a 97 XJR Webby? ;D
About to finish replacing shocks springs and bushes all round. What a job that was!!
Their not very adjustable between 93-97
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Point to note our figures are without any ballast added since most places in the UK don't have ballast. In addition the castor position is adjustable by moving the subframe.
Thanks for confirming that... so no additional weight in the front or the boot? :)
If your using my speck then no..... I calculated this because as said most places don't have ballast.
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Point to note our figures are without any ballast added since most places in the UK don't have ballast. In addition the castor position is adjustable by moving the subframe.
Thanks for confirming that... so no additional weight in the front or the boot? :)
If your using my speck then no..... I calculated this because as said most places don't have ballast.
To WIM
Hi .. hope you didn't mind me posting up the target values from my last visit ... had a thought last night that they might not be for public consumption !!
Regards
E
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Hi guys,
Ok went over to Corby today and had the Omega on the alignment machine.
The machine is a John Bean ''Visualiner''......
Exactly like this...
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=john+bean+visualiner+alignment+machine&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=0QKrUrmeOeqv7AbQpYHADw&ved=0CAkQ_AUoAQ&biw=1366&bih=673#facrc=_&imgdii=_&imgrc=Wzc46Jv7j9t2_M%3A%3BLk4mg9yk5E0xJM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fadvanceperformance.com%252Fnews%252Fwp-content%252Fuploads%252F2012%252F12%252F485140_472531756122725_1237530572_n.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fadvanceperformance.com%252Fnews%252F%253Fp%253D2746%3B960%3B720
How very easy to use!!!!
Anyway my chuffing phone died :( so only got the results photo....
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/Visuliner_zps6701ca85.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/Visuliner_zps6701ca85.jpg.html)
The above results were with no extra weight and all tyres at 31.5psi as per Haynes.
It's not all god news..... my diff pinion seal is leaking....as is the propshaft - gearbox seal.... looks a pig of a job. Should I be topping up my gearbox for running the car whilst its leaking? don't want to mess up me tranny ::)
All suspension components are good. other than the wishbone bushes I mentioned previously
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ill get the wishbones dine and then stickit back on the machine :y
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Right, not ive had a coffee and had a look at the data vs WIM target data it appears my O/S front is out by 1 minute (0o 10' +/-5') but a said...not too worried as ill do the WB bushes and then re-check and adjust if necessary :y
Perhaps WIM could double check the actual figures from the pic against their target data and see if ive missed anything?? :)
also wheres the castor data :-\
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I trust there are 60 minutes in a degree when we're talking wheel alignment? :)
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I trust there are 60 minutes in a degree when we're talking wheel alignment? :)
Yes. :y
It doesn't look like that machine is measuring castor. It would be worth checking to see if there's a mode where it does show all measurements, though. It might be that it's in an "idiot" mode where it's only showing the basics.
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Oh, and diff pinion seals? TADTS. Mine has been leaking for a few years but it only takes a tiny amount of oil to give you quite a noticeable leak. On the basis that it still doesn't need topping up from one year to the next, I ignore it, although I've got a new seal to go on.
Not a terrible job but you do need to make sure the pinion bearing preload is restored. There's a maintenance quide. :y
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Thanks Kev :y :y :y
Whats TADTS? lol :-[
im well pleased the alignments all in spec.
re the seals.... if I leave the diff seal for the moment but will the gearbox to prop seal need doing?
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ps they got some bloody decent tools over at corby. this was one of them (a pic my mate sent to me)
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/strapon_zpsb0445d3d.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/strapon_zpsb0445d3d.jpg.html)
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Thanks Kev :y :y :y
Whats TADTS? lol :-[
im well pleased the alignments all in spec.
re the seals.... if I leave the diff seal for the moment but will the gearbox to prop seal need doing?
They All Do That Sir ;D
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Thanks Kev :y :y :y
Whats TADTS? lol :-[
im well pleased the alignments all in spec.
re the seals.... if I leave the diff seal for the moment but will the gearbox to prop seal need doing?
They All Do That Sir ;D
;D ;D ;D got ya! ::) ::) :y
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ps never thought steve I coulda popped in to see ya! :'( :'( :'(
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ps never thought steve I coulda popped in to see ya! :'( :'( :'(
You could have mate , and seen my new spanker car :-X :-*
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ps never thought steve I coulda popped in to see ya! :'( :'( :'(
You could have mate , and seen my new spanker car :-X :-*
to be fair id have had a grotty 17 year old in toe though as I gave one of the morons a lift ::)
hows she running mate?
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Golden bullet is running sweet mate ;) Wearing my rear tyres out quite rapidly ;D
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Golden bullet is running sweet mate ;) Wearing my rear tyres out quite rapidly ;D
:o :o :o ;D ;D ;D
one of the lads who put his car on the alignment machine (lowered fiesta) found his fronts were out by 2 degrees :o :o :o :o no wonder he said it ran like a bag of shite! I adjust the tie rod for him to bring it in to spec... I just kept on turning...and turning... his tyres were shot!
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Golden bullet is running sweet mate ;) Wearing my rear tyres out quite rapidly ;D
:o :o :o ;D ;D ;D
one of the lads who put his car on the alignment machine (lowered fiesta) found his fronts were out by 2 degrees :o :o :o :o no wonder he said it ran like a bag of shite! I adjust the tie rod for him to bring it in to spec... I just kept on turning...and turning... his tyres were shot!
;D
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Sounds more fundamental, if you adjust the tie rod then it should change the toe, shot tyres or not.
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Sounds more fundamental, if you adjust the tie rod then it should change the toe, shot tyres or not.
oh it did come in to spec.... eventually lol it just took a lot of turns when usually an adjustment is done with 1/4 to 1/2 a turn lol
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ps, as mentioned the readings for toe on the O/S front is a single minute out when using WIM spec...... is a minute an amount that's going to have a bearing? im going to alter it anyway when ive done my bushes as we can request access to corby.....but I just want to know for whilst driving around before that...and also from learning point of view :)
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The thrust angle (set by rear toe) absolutely must be 0.00 on an Omega, to prevent pulls. 0.01 doesn't appear to be good enough - although maybe more pronounced with wider, lower profile tyres.
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The thrust angle (set by rear toe) absolutely must be 0.00 on an Omega, to prevent pulls. 0.01 doesn't appear to be good enough - although maybe more pronounced with wider, lower profile tyres.
Ok thanks. How do you adjust the rear toe?
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The thrust angle (set by rear toe) absolutely must be 0.00 on an Omega, to prevent pulls. 0.01 doesn't appear to be good enough - although maybe more pronounced with wider, lower profile tyres.
Ok thanks. How do you adjust the rear toe?
By adjusting the rear track rods, which will be seized.
On the Omega, adjusting the rear track rods also affects rear camber, so there will always be an element of compromise. I'd compromise rear camber more than rear toe.
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The thrust angle (set by rear toe) absolutely must be 0.00 on an Omega, to prevent pulls. 0.01 doesn't appear to be good enough - although maybe more pronounced with wider, lower profile tyres.
Ok thanks. How do you adjust the rear toe?
By adjusting the rear track rods, which will be seized.
On the Omega, adjusting the rear track rods also affects rear camber, so there will always be an element of compromise. I'd compromise rear camber more than rear toe.
Oh goody ::)
So its a case of adjusting the rear track rods (if possible due to the sezing) to bring the thrust angle in spec whilst maintaining rear camber in spec. this sounds straight forwad to me..... but I assume its not as everything omega is a PITA to do...or so it seems ::)
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ps presume its this that adjusts...
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/reartrackrod2_zpsb4cdf745.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/reartrackrod2_zpsb4cdf745.jpg.html)
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Yup :y
They are available new as complete assemblies from Allgerman amongst others...
Probably also from the firm I linked for the wishbones etc :y
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Yup :y
They are available new as complete assemblies from Allgerman amongst others...
Probably also from the firm I linked for the wishbones etc :y
nice one mate :y :y :y
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If you can, Webby, I'd remove them beforehand, free them off (with heat :-X), dismantle, grease up the threads, reassemble and refit is close to original length as before, then ASAP after get it on the geo machine...
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If you can, Webby, I'd remove them beforehand, free them off (with heat :-X), dismantle, grease up the threads, reassemble and refit is close to original length as before, then ASAP after get it on the geo machine...
sounds like a better plan TB, cheers ;)
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Right, not ive had a coffee and had a look at the data vs WIM target data it appears my O/S front is out by 1 minute (0o 10' +/-5') but a said...not too worried as ill do the WB bushes and then re-check and adjust if necessary :y
Perhaps WIM could double check the actual figures from the pic against their target data and see if ive missed anything?? :)
also wheres the castor data :-\
NSF camber is fine but the OSF is still to negative "sorry"..... The camber is hard to adjust because the car needs to be raised and the machine needs to dismiss the suspensions droop from the live readings. Well most machines struggle to be 100% accurate with raised live data so sometimes it might take two or three attempts to hit the right target. Unfortunately the human might get a little complacent about jacking the car up three times and might just call it a day at the numbers you display?
Getting technical now....
Most shops don't measure the castor even if it is adjustable, and even more don't measure it if it's not adjustable..... So what you might think?
Cars chassis are not built at right-angles, each pick-up-point is either lateral, longitudinal or perpendicular. This means a move, let's say camber in this case will effect another plane albeit X, Y or Z. In the case for the Omega a reduced camber will act on the steering arm towing the wheel in. When this is corrected the toe will act against the castor ( fore/ aft position ) of the wheel. A deficit between the front castor will generate directional instability ( pull ) now it's get difficult to explain.....
The castor position controls how much the front cambers migrate during a turn. First player during yaw is the Ackerman angle. This angle generates a disparity between the front wheels radii since each wheel needs a different radii path. The Ackerman pick-up-point migrates the / \ camber to \ \ during a left turn in this example. The rate of migration depends on the castor position. To low a castor then the outer wheel is forced to roll-over due to the level of yaw, to much the inner wheel will roll -over.
Reads like a bit of a dark art, it's not. The same laws apply to all cars, it's just a shame tyre shops don't understand this!
Just to reiterate despite what's been said and what you might read in the manuals the Omega castor angle is adjustable.
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Right, not ive had a coffee and had a look at the data vs WIM target data it appears my O/S front is out by 1 minute (0o 10' +/-5') but a said...not too worried as ill do the WB bushes and then re-check and adjust if necessary :y
Perhaps WIM could double check the actual figures from the pic against their target data and see if ive missed anything?? :)
also wheres the castor data :-\
NSF camber is fine but the OSF is still to negative "sorry"..... The camber is hard to adjust because the car needs to be raised and the machine needs to dismiss the suspensions droop from the live readings. Well most machines struggle to be 100% accurate with raised live data so sometimes it might take two or three attempts to hit the right target. Unfortunately the human might get a little complacent about jacking the car up three times and might just call it a day at the numbers you display?
Getting technical now....
Most shops don't measure the castor even if it is adjustable, and even more don't measure it if it's not adjustable..... So what you might think?
Cars chassis are not built at right-angles, each pick-up-point is either lateral, longitudinal or perpendicular. This means a move, let's say camber in this case will effect another plane albeit X, Y or Z. In the case for the Omega a reduced camber will act on the steering arm towing the wheel in. When this is corrected the toe will act against the castor ( fore/ aft position ) of the wheel. A deficit between the front castor will generate directional instability ( pull ) now it's get difficult to explain.....
The castor position controls how much the front cambers migrate during a turn. First player during yaw is the Ackerman angle. This angle generates a disparity between the front wheels radii since each wheel needs a different radii path. The Ackerman pick-up-point migrates the / \ camber to \ \ during a left turn in this example. The rate of migration depends on the castor position. To low a castor then the outer wheel is forced to roll-over due to the level of yaw, to much the inner wheel will roll -over.
Reads like a bit of a dark art, it's not. The same laws apply to all cars, it's just a shame tyre shops don't understand this!
Just to reiterate despite what's been said and what you might read in the manuals the Omega castor angle is adjustable.
Thanks very much for the info. :)
Re the camber being out.... I have the spec on my sheet as.... Front camber -1º 10' +/- 0º 45'
My O/S/F is at -1º 35'......only 25' more than the spec.
Can you let me know where that's wrong? :)
Cheers.
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O/S/F is at -1º 35'......only 25' more than the spec.
Not much ambiguity there Webby :-\
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I work out that with the +/- being 45' and the desired being -1o 10'...........the maximum allowed is -1o 55'.
and my -1o 35' is within this tolerance.
as said apologies if ive got this wrong but...
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I work out that with the +/- being 45' and the desired being -1o 10'...........the maximum allowed is -1o 55'.
and my -1o 35' is within this tolerance.
as said apologies if ive got this wrong but...
Finally had chance to reply ::)
Simply in the green is fine if you don't mind which direction your wheels actually point in ;D
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I work out that with the +/- being 45' and the desired being -1o 10'...........the maximum allowed is -1o 55'.
and my -1o 35' is within this tolerance.
as said apologies if ive got this wrong but...
Finally had chance to reply ::)
Simply in the green is fine if you don't mind which direction your wheels actually point in ;D
thanks taxi :)
perhaps the tolerances should be less then???
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Right, not ive had a coffee and had a look at the data vs WIM target data it appears my O/S front is out by 1 minute (0o 10' +/-5') but a said...not too worried as ill do the WB bushes and then re-check and adjust if necessary :y
Perhaps WIM could double check the actual figures from the pic against their target data and see if ive missed anything?? :)
also wheres the castor data :-\
NSF camber is fine but the OSF is still to negative "sorry"..... The camber is hard to adjust because the car needs to be raised and the machine needs to dismiss the suspensions droop from the live readings. Well most machines struggle to be 100% accurate with raised live data so sometimes it might take two or three attempts to hit the right target. Unfortunately the human might get a little complacent about jacking the car up three times and might just call it a day at the numbers you display?
Getting technical now....
Most shops don't measure the castor even if it is adjustable, and even more don't measure it if it's not adjustable..... So what you might think?
Cars chassis are not built at right-angles, each pick-up-point is either lateral, longitudinal or perpendicular. This means a move, let's say camber in this case will effect another plane albeit X, Y or Z. In the case for the Omega a reduced camber will act on the steering arm towing the wheel in. When this is corrected the toe will act against the castor ( fore/ aft position ) of the wheel. A deficit between the front castor will generate directional instability ( pull ) now it's get difficult to explain.....
The castor position controls how much the front cambers migrate during a turn. First player during yaw is the Ackerman angle. This angle generates a disparity between the front wheels radii since each wheel needs a different radii path. The Ackerman pick-up-point migrates the / \ camber to \ \ during a left turn in this example. The rate of migration depends on the castor position. To low a castor then the outer wheel is forced to roll-over due to the level of yaw, to much the inner wheel will roll -over.
Reads like a bit of a dark art, it's not. The same laws apply to all cars, it's just a shame tyre shops don't understand this!
Just to reiterate despite what's been said and what you might read in the manuals the Omega castor angle is adjustable.
Thanks very much for the info. :)
Re the camber being out.... I have the spec on my sheet as.... Front camber -1º 10' +/- 0º 45'
My O/S/F is at -1º 35'......only 25' more than the spec.
Can you let me know where that's wrong? :)
Cheers.
Tolerances is where things go very wrong within the industry and understanding!
If the angle is adjustable and there's a target of -1 degree 10' in this camber case then the tolerance is beside the point. The +- 40' is the bump/ droop range experienced by the dynamic chassis. If the front camber was allowed to be set at -1 degree 55' static then on bump the camber would exceed it's tolerance.
On a car where the angle is not adjustable the tolerance becomes a permitted barrier before the need to look for bent components, nothing more.
I train the trainers for some of the biggest fast-fit company's in the EU and their key instructors and i despair...... Really despair sometimes!!... Most operators don't know what each angle represents nor do the watch the target datum? They watch the colour on the screen and when it's green seemingly it's job done..... There's that tolerance again!
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Right, not ive had a coffee and had a look at the data vs WIM target data it appears my O/S front is out by 1 minute (0o 10' +/-5') but a said...not too worried as ill do the WB bushes and then re-check and adjust if necessary :y
Perhaps WIM could double check the actual figures from the pic against their target data and see if ive missed anything?? :)
also wheres the castor data :-\
NSF camber is fine but the OSF is still to negative "sorry"..... The camber is hard to adjust because the car needs to be raised and the machine needs to dismiss the suspensions droop from the live readings. Well most machines struggle to be 100% accurate with raised live data so sometimes it might take two or three attempts to hit the right target. Unfortunately the human might get a little complacent about jacking the car up three times and might just call it a day at the numbers you display?
Getting technical now....
Most shops don't measure the castor even if it is adjustable, and even more don't measure it if it's not adjustable..... So what you might think?
Cars chassis are not built at right-angles, each pick-up-point is either lateral, longitudinal or perpendicular. This means a move, let's say camber in this case will effect another plane albeit X, Y or Z. In the case for the Omega a reduced camber will act on the steering arm towing the wheel in. When this is corrected the toe will act against the castor ( fore/ aft position ) of the wheel. A deficit between the front castor will generate directional instability ( pull ) now it's get difficult to explain.....
The castor position controls how much the front cambers migrate during a turn. First player during yaw is the Ackerman angle. This angle generates a disparity between the front wheels radii since each wheel needs a different radii path. The Ackerman pick-up-point migrates the / \ camber to \ \ during a left turn in this example. The rate of migration depends on the castor position. To low a castor then the outer wheel is forced to roll-over due to the level of yaw, to much the inner wheel will roll -over.
Reads like a bit of a dark art, it's not. The same laws apply to all cars, it's just a shame tyre shops don't understand this!
Just to reiterate despite what's been said and what you might read in the manuals the Omega castor angle is adjustable.
Thanks very much for the info. :)
Re the camber being out.... I have the spec on my sheet as.... Front camber -1º 10' +/- 0º 45'
My O/S/F is at -1º 35'......only 25' more than the spec.
Can you let me know where that's wrong? :)
Cheers.
Tolerances is where things go very wrong within the industry and understanding!
If the angle is adjustable and there's a target of -1 degree 10' in this camber case then the tolerance is beside the point. The +- 40' is the bump/ droop range experienced by the dynamic chassis. If the front camber was allowed to be set at -1 degree 55' static then on bump the camber would exceed it's tolerance.
On a car where the angle is not adjustable the tolerance becomes a permitted barrier before the need to look for bent components, nothing more.
I train the trainers for some of the biggest fast-fit company's in the EU and their key instructors and i despair...... Really despair sometimes!!... Most operators don't know what each angle represents nor do the watch the target datum? They watch the colour on the screen and when it's green seemingly it's job done..... There's that tolerance again!
That's a perfect explanation...thanks mate!
I just couldn't get my head around that.
to be honest its all irrelevant what they are at the moment cos as soon as my wishbones are fitted with new bushes im bringing it to you for alignment! :y :y :y
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Fancy cutting your teeth on a 97 XJR Webby? ;D
About to finish replacing shocks springs and bushes all round. What a job that was!!
Their not very adjustable between 93-97
shhhhhhhh........ He is not to know that. .....
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Fancy cutting your teeth on a 97 XJR Webby? ;D
About to finish replacing shocks springs and bushes all round. What a job that was!!
Their not very adjustable between 93-97
shhhhhhhh........ He is not to know that. .....
so youd let me try guffy...knowing theyre non adjustable! >:(
cheers mate ;D ;D ;D
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;D practice, practice, practice...
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;D practice, practice, practice...
::) ;D ;D ;D
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Fancy cutting your teeth on a 97 XJR Webby? ;D
About to finish replacing shocks springs and bushes all round. What a job that was!!
Their not very adjustable between 93-97
Interesting that the 97 on are adjustable with different values given between n/s and o/s. To match the road camber?