Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: cd 2.2 on 03 April 2014, 16:38:43
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Took the car to get it read and cleared today (yet again) and the following codes were present ..... It's a 2.2 Cd Auto petrol 2003 F/L
P0130 HEATER SENSOR
P0170 MIXTURE LEAN
P1700 SERVICE OVERDUE
P0340 CAM SENSOR
P0120 THROTTLE POSITION
P1550 THROTTLE CONTROL
This was quite a shock as there are allot of codes there :o I'm not sure what most of these things mean is wrong but after an 8 mile drive the Eml is back on and it's driving like a sack of crap again! I do know that the cam sensor is dead but there isn't much I can do till more money is available again! I'm guessing heater sensor and mixture lean is to do with Lamda's ??? I don't know ... Please advise
Cheers Graham
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AaforFfff...
Somebody tell him.
Actually no. Do a search re Cam sensor.
...and don't come back until you've fitted a new genuine replacement. :y
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AaforFfff...
Somebody tell him.
Actually no. Do a search re Cam sensor.
...and don't come back until you've fitted a new genuine replacement. :y
I have read around all over the internet about this now ! Allot of mention about rich/lean running (mine is registering lean), lots of mention as to failed starts, misfires, backfires and poor economy issues ... can't find any mention of throttle sensors or positioning though ??? is this even related to the cam sensor ???
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(http://www.thesmilies.com/smilies/angry/banghead.gif)
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Oh never mind ::)
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Obviously didn`t take kindly to the smiley and hit the delete button
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To be fair it can take some convincing how useless 2.2 pattern sensors can be, done that dance myself ::)
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What happened here then :-\
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What happened here then :-\
Rob's been bullying other OOFers ::) ;) ;)
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Hopefully still lurking.
P0340/P1700 are the cam sensor, as you know.
The 2 lamda ones are worrying - one is a heater circuit fault, other is lean or rich running, which I wouldn't expect to see if just cam sensor was fubar. If it was just the P0170, I'd be cautious of the cat/exhaust, but with the P130, wonder if lamda is tired/knacked. If you have access to live data, see if the lamda switches correctly at about 1Hz. If sluggish at idle, but switching OK at higher revs, probably lazy lamda.
I'd get these 2 sorted before worrying about throttle sensor, as one fault can cause spurious other faults to appear, as the ECU is half working in the dark.
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And can we all be a little less aggressive to members, even more so newer members who may not have grasped what is banter and what isn't.
>:(
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And can we all be a little less aggressive to members, even more so newer members who may not have grasped what is banter and what isn't.
>:(
Yes please.
:-[
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And can we all be a little less aggressive to members, even more so newer members who may not have grasped what is banter and what isn't.
>:(
He said himself he was surprised he hadn't been told to F off. Jokingly. I don't see any aggression from anyone. Just frustration. You've come in half way through.
There are numerous threads on used parts etc etc for the same member, on the same subject.
How is Wayne these days btw...? ::)
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And can we all be a little less aggressive to members, even more so newer members who may not have grasped what is banter and what isn't.
>:(
He said himself he was surprised he hadn't been told to F off. Jokingly. I don't see any aggression from anyone. Just frustration. You've come in half way through.
There are numerous threads on used parts etc etc for the same member, on the same subject.
How is Wayne these days btw...? ::)
:-X :D
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He said himself he was surprised he hadn't been told to F off. Jokingly. I don't see any aggression from anyone. Just frustration. You've come in half way through.
There are numerous threads on used parts etc etc for the same member, on the same subject.
Yet he felt the need to leave. And of course I'd seen the other threads. I'd posted on most of them. And one other member has publically stated likewise.
Cliché, but written banter can always be misinterpreted.
How is Wayne these days btw...? ::)
I repeat my last sentence...
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After my "rage quit", I proceeded to fix this issue! The new camshaft sensor was fitted but the EML stayed on .... Took it and got it read again and reset, Code P0170 remained but was cleared and the light went out! 8 miles later the EML was back on again so I repeated above process with the read and reset, Sure enough it was P0170 MIXTURE LEAN! Went through and checked everything, and I mean everything. Cam sensor connection, Maf connection, any air leaks in the filter side and even if the filter was clogged, checked the throttle body connections and whether the throttle body was dirty and found nothing amiss ... Moved the search onto the exhaust and when I went to check the front lambda sensor connector the wire came apart, someone in the past (not me before it's said) had fitted one of those splice it in yourself sensors. All the 4 wires had come loose and even after re-connecting them all P0170 remained!
I thought sod it and bought an NTK (made by NGK) front lambda sensor including the correct wire so I didn't need to splice anything in for a total of £61 including VAT ! Light went off and has stayed off so far since I replaced this :y
I never asked the question "is my cam sensor dead", This point I already knew. I was simply asking for advice as to what was causing the other fault codes stored as it's been reset after the HGF so there should have only been cam sensor related faults in there !! I was confused as to why throttle position was in the list and what a heat sensor was ... But I went out off my own back and did the research, luckily for me I replaced the one item at fault for the P0170. But as people who know about P0170 it can be caused by a million different things and not 100% a lambda sensor !
In the future I will be more careful of asking for advice, Obviously this seems to get on ppls t*ts too much as I don't know you all on first name basis and don't know the secret handshake of Oof :D
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Welcome back CD 2.2 :y
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Well done Graham, great to see you back ;) :y
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Cam sensor on the 2.2, and crank sensor on the v engines can both throw erroneous codes.
It's not until the basic fault if the sensor is removed or fixed, can the remaining codes be trusted. Although more experienced members than me did suspect a genuine fault with 0170 iirc.
So the advice was valid. One step at a time.
Basic rule, of sorts;
Do too many things at once, and if another fault is introduced, it's then a bugger to know which of those numerous actions caused it. But one thing at a time, and test the results, then you know where you are.
Patience patience. ;)
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Yeah Patience is something that I'm having to learn allot with this car!
No longer can I just randomly throw spanners at my car and know it will be fixed. Somehow I think that Vx must have employed Lucas electrics to teach them the in car wiring ... It's mostly smoke, wrapped in nice shiney plastic ;D
I have a very short list of things to do now before the mot of doom ... Front n/s wheel bearing, rear brake discs, pads and handbrake sort out the alternator as it keeps blowing headlight bulbs in alternating sequence and that's using 55w standard bulbs (8 so far in a month) and just give the old girl a good once over for any nasty surprises!
I also learned the reason why most of the pattern cam sensors don't work on omega's ... They don't have a fast enough switch response time ::) My dad has a Fuel parts cam sensor on his and a year on theres no issues with it at all which is a nice surprise
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If this one's testing your patience, wait till you 'graduate' to a V6! :D ;) ;D
Welcome back! :y
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Welcome back mate :y
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and handbrake sort out
Use the guide in Maint Guides section, written by Marks DTM Calib, these cars handrakes need a bit more work than many other cars you may have worked on.
Its a bit more fiddly, but once you have the knack, relatively straightforward. Don't be tempted to just adjust cable :)
Oh, also plusgas chassis heatshield studs the day before
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And welcome back :y
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Aye? I've only adjusted my hand brake twice. On two different cars.
Can only assume some abuse there.
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Yeah Patience is something that I'm having to learn allot with this car!
No longer can I just randomly throw spanners at my car and know it will be fixed. Somehow I think that Vx must have employed Lucas electrics to teach them the in car wiring ... It's mostly smoke, wrapped in nice shiney plastic ;D
I have a very short list of things to do now before the mot of doom ... Front n/s wheel bearing, rear brake discs, pads and handbrake sort out the alternator as it keeps blowing headlight bulbs in alternating sequence and that's using 55w standard bulbs (8 so far in a month) and just give the old girl a good once over for any nasty surprises!
I also learned the reason why most of the pattern cam sensors don't work on omega's ... They don't have a fast enough switch response time ::) My dad has a Fuel parts cam sensor on his and a year on theres no issues with it at all which is a nice surprise
Excess voltage can destroy all sorts of components. I wonder if it had anything to do with the other electrical failures? (eg O2 sensor & cam sensor) :-\
Have you read this guide Battery, charging and Starting diagnosis (http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90619.0)?
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I guess that's a possibility :-\ I know that there is something not right with the alternator, This had to be fixed in a "get you by" kind of way ... The old regulator pack thing on the back had failed so a second hand known good one was sorted in a rush as the car was inoperative at the time! Turns out it wasn't as good as it could be. Occasionally when you start the car the battery light comes on but really dim and proceeds to go out after a mile or so. The alternator is only charging at about 13.8 volts, while acceptable (just) it's not ideal!
I'm guessing that could be a cause of allot of the issues but a new replacement is getting fitted asap, I'm not even sure what conditions illuminate the battery light on the dash ... just can't remember what makes the light go on in this manner. Maybe someone can shed a little more light on this as I'm extremely tired this evening after cutting a car into 3 pieces with my brother and cba to search google about it ;D
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Get a replacement regulator for your old alternator. About £22 last time I looked, from the Gay or E
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I guess that's a possibility :-\ I know that there is something not right with the alternator, This had to be fixed in a "get you by" kind of way ... The old regulator pack thing on the back had failed so a second hand known good one was sorted in a rush as the car was inoperative at the time! Turns out it wasn't as good as it could be. Occasionally when you start the car the battery light comes on but really dim and proceeds to go out after a mile or so. The alternator is only charging at about 13.8 volts, while acceptable (just) it's not ideal!
I'm guessing that could be a cause of allot of the issues but a new replacement is getting fitted asap, I'm not even sure what conditions illuminate the battery light on the dash ... just can't remember what makes the light go on in this manner. Maybe someone can shed a little more light on this as I'm extremely tired this evening after cutting a car into 3 pieces with my brother and cba to search google about it ;D
13.8v won't harm anything. I was concerned that a faulty alternator might be pumping out 20v+.
Clearly if you have a known fault with the alternator you need to fix it though.......