Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Webby the Bear on 18 May 2014, 12:06:01
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Hi guys,
I often have my air on ECO (thus A/C off). The car idles at bang on 400rpm on ECO and jumps up to 600rpm when A/C on. However I switched ECO off the other day and there was no increase in revs.
I had a butchers at the A/C compressor whilst mummy bear activated and deactivated the A/C and I couldn't see the compressor spinning although I cant be 100% sure as visibility wasn't great.
Anyway, I got a pocket screwdriver and just quickly depressed the Schrader valve and there was a hissing but no spraying out of refrigerant so I'm thinking it's just low.
So, does this mean all I need is a refrigerant can? :)
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ps, I know its not just ''dump a can in''... it needs to be vacuumed and then charged. :y
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Compressor will not engage if low on refrigerant to save damaging the unit.
First thing to do is get an AC Engineer to investigate as several things need checking.
May just require a vac down and recharge which will identify any leaks and if all good quite cheap just for regas.Failiing that ist the bottom less pit with evaporator /dryer leaking or worse still compressor .
Just had mind done and we found the valve hidden up under the glove box wasnt releasing correctly so had that replaced.Job from hell getting at it and then putting all back together .
Fingers crossed it just needs a recharge.........Avoid Shit-Fit though IMHO
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This place got recommended on projectpuma,
http://www.bee-cool-aircon.co.uk/contact-us/
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Thanks Amba.
We have evacuation/refill machine at school so i'll evacuate the system, vacuum it down and see if it holds pressure first.
as you say, hopefully it will just be a recharge :y
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thanks mate :y
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If you have the UV dye to add too, that should help pinpoint your leak :y
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If you have the UV dye to add too, that should help pinpoint your leak :y
Thanks mate. Yeah will use this... i'll raid the school's cupboards ;D
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ps is the omega system the R134A?
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ps is the omega system the R134A?
Yup :y
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ps is the omega system the R134A?
Yup :y
Sweet, cheers mate :y
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Webby be fore you regarge it.
de-gas first, remove hp valve and clean with brake cleaner, remove and replace lp valve (its a std tyre valve),then nitrogen pressure test system, then remove the machine leaving the system under pressure, no hoses connected and check hp/lp for leaks (slight hissing),check condensor for leaks traces of dye,also around the compressor for dye, then refill with 930g of refrigerant and oil,the machine should do it for you :),
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Thanks mate
TBH I was going to buy a set of manifold gauges and vacuum pump so I can do these repairs in future...same way of doing it... just need to measure out oil and refrigerant :y
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ps, if I was to use manifold gauge set and add via can.... can anyone recommend a product?
I'm thinking this if I can find a seller
http://www.ebay.com/itm/R134A-Polar-Ice-R134a-Refrigerant-14-oz-Refill-for-FJC-533-Standard-R134a-Top-/150977596205
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ps, if I was to use manifold gauge set and add via can.... can anyone recommend a product?
I'm thinking this if I can find a seller
http://www.ebay.com/itm/R134A-Polar-Ice-R134a-Refrigerant-14-oz-Refill-for-FJC-533-Standard-R134a-Top-/150977596205
IMHO such a purchase would be pointless ... :(
The aircon system is designed to have a specific mass of refrigerant in it .. 930 grams I think - the ONLY way of ensuring the CORRECT amount is to empty it then add the calibrated amount.
Any other approach is simply a guess.. and as you don't know how much you start with .. how much are you going to add ??? 1 can might overfill it, 2 cans might only 1/2 fill it ....
and then the oil .. also requires a calibrated amount ... how do you do that ??
The machine that empties/vacs/refills the system is designed to measure all the amounts removed, and to then replace with the CORRECT amounts .. and that treatment is around £40 at most air con places .... so why waste money, and risk an even higher bill, by messing about with unknown cans ??
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Thanks for the post Nige. :y
For evacuating, yeah I was going to use the machine at school and then use the gauges/vac pump at home.
Adding oil I was hoping I'd find on Autodata.
But, you're quite right.... unless I could find a can exactly 930g then it would be guessing.
I'll see what the teacher says about me coming in after hours ;)
Thanks :y
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Ps, as for the reason... just kinda wanted to be as self sufficient as poss. but I suppose without right gear it's going to be very difficult :'(
Out of interest.... is 930 the exact amount or is there a tolerance? i.e. 900-930? just out of interest :)
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Exact amount is on sticker on slam panel... exact for a reason :y
Agree with Entwood, understanding the system is all well and good but faffing for the sake of £40 or so is simply not worth it :y
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Exact amount is on sticker on slam panel... exact for a reason :y
Agree with Entwood, understanding the system is all well and good but faffing for the sake of £40 or so is simply not worth it :y
Fair enough Al :y Thanks for input :y
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Even Vx charged just £59, somehow this time around the air-con appears more powerful than last re-gas at an indy. :-\
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To be clearer...
The system has certain amount of space in it. ie the pipes, compressor, evaporator and condenser are all fixed volume, the only variable being pressure, which is entirely dependent on temperature.
The exact content of the system is important as the temperature varies the pressure, ie a cold system will have a lower pressure than a hot system for any given volume. The system will function at a higher or lower volume because the pressure sensor has a pretty vague tolerance. But put too much refrigerant in and the system will overpressurerise as the system temperature rises. Equally too little refrigerant might cause the low pressure side to collapse as it cools.
Unlike the coolant system, there's no overflow :y
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To be clearer...
The system has certain amount of space in it. ie the pipes, compressor, evaporator and condenser are all fixed volume, the only variable being pressure, which is entirely dependent on temperature.
The exact content of the system is important as the temperature varies the pressure, ie a cold system will have a lower pressure than a hot system for any given volume. The system will function at a higher or lower volume because the pressure sensor has a pretty vague tolerance. But put too much refrigerant in and the system will overpressurerise as the system temperature rises. Equally too little refrigerant might cause the low pressure side to collapse as it cools.
Unlike the coolant system, there's no overflow :y
Cheers mate.... just remember a video I watched where the sticker said 19-23oz (usa). So just wondered if it was worth looking at that.
But thanks for the explanation :y
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Thanks mate
TBH I was going to buy a set of manifold gauges and vacuum pump so I can do these repairs in future...same way of doing it... just need to measure out oil and refrigerant :y
That's doing it old school way or another saying professionally, to do it that way you also need a set of digital scales to constant weigh the bottle as you refill, a vacuum pump, a waste bottle, a full refrigerant bottle, and now as the gas in cars has changed to a butane based gas a certification,training course in F gas.
easier to plug the dalek in,let it do,its thing while you drink tea. :y
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Got mine done by ATS @£29.99 all in not long ago, offer has probably expired now. They leak tested it and recharged it with gas and oil, then checked the battery with a drop test and a few other upsale items (that they confirmed I didn't need which was reassuring) and I though yeah seems ok nothing special until the wife kept moaning she was cold!! I must admit I don't use it a lot (I'd rather have the sunroof & windows open) but last Sunday it was worth every penny. As per previous posts its really not worth trying to use a can as you will need to evac and add oil as well. I course if you can do that and measure the gas accurately then go for it, there's nothing like a bit if DIY.
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Well, if i can't get it recharged at school i'll certainly get it evacuated and vacuumed down and make sure that it holds pressure so they cant say ''yeah its gointo cost a million pounds cos we found and fixed a leak''.
just dont trust these places with anything
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Well, if i can't get it recharged at school i'll certainly get it evacuated and vacuumed down and make sure that it holds pressure so they cant say ''yeah its gointo cost a million pounds cos we found and fixed a leak''.
just dont trust these places with anything
I was surprised with Vx, I thought they did a good job over-all. They should have sourced part first before filling with gas really, bit sneaky there.
But I know for sure now it is the valve now :)
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Well, if i can't get it recharged at school i'll certainly get it evacuated and vacuumed down and make sure that it holds pressure so they cant say ''yeah its gointo cost a million pounds cos we found and fixed a leak''.
just dont trust these places with anything
Yep, you and me both, that's why if something needs to be done its me that does it.....Unless its geo or air-con re gas as I don't have the equipment to do it properly.
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Well, if i can't get it recharged at school i'll certainly get it evacuated and vacuumed down and make sure that it holds pressure so they cant say ''yeah its gointo cost a million pounds cos we found and fixed a leak''.
just dont trust these places with anything
Try the place i recommended,he is very good,and very helpful.
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As others have said, not really worth trying it yourself, unless you can do a proper vac, and accurately get the correct amount back in, along with the PAG46.
As for shitfit, I paid them £29 for 4 months running, was never particularly good. Got someone who knew what they were doing, and it worked for ages until such time the compressor decided to disintegrate ::). I blame that Darth Loo-knee for letting me nick a faulty one off one of his breakers when he wasn't looking ;D