Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: nilocp on 18 May 2014, 23:07:31
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Does anyone know if the V6 manual gearbox from a facelift car will mate up to a Vauxhall 2 litre 16 valve engine? :y :y
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Should do, I think the bell housings are the same :y
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an original 2.0 manual box will have a better gear ratio for your car..
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an original 2.0 manual box will have a better gear ratio for your car..
Depends what car it's going into, though. ;)
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Me thinks somebody thinking about outing 2.0let in omega, hence the question.
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an original 2.0 manual box will have a better gear ratio for your car..
2,5 and 2,6l has the same gear ratio as the box on a 2l
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an original 2.0 manual box will have a better gear ratio for your car..
Depends what car it's going into, though. ;)
Well spotted Kevin. Thinking of using a red top and the Omega box in a Locost! Should be fun ;D ;D ;D
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an original 2.0 manual box will have a better gear ratio for your car..
Depends what car it's going into, though. ;)
he says "will mate up to a 2 lite 16 valve car" ;)
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an original 2.0 manual box will have a better gear ratio for your car..
Depends what car it's going into, though. ;)
Well spotted Kevin. Thinking of using a red top and the Omega box in a Locost! Should be fun ;D ;D ;D
no point in using red top unless you open the boost.. in that case you will start chewing the clutch plate and later gearbox..
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no point in using red top unless you open the boost.. in that case you will start chewing the clutch plate and later gearbox..
I disagree. A NATASP red top makes a cracking engine for a Seven. No need for any boost. :y
In a light car like that you can throw a lot of power at the components without getting any reliability problems.
My only concern is that the ratios in the Omega gearbox won't be ideal for a light car. 1st gear is very short, in particular. You may find you are best just using 2nd to get you moving and view it as a 4 speed box.
If there's the budget available, it might be worth considering a Ford type 9 + bellhousing to suit the C20XE if you can find one with the V6 ratios (longer first gear). Failing that, the Omega box will be bomb proof, and probably fine for road use. :y
What diff ratio are you going for?
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Good luck in finding a Type 9 in anything like useable condition these days. ;D
I would go Omega box and make the gearing a bit longer in the diff.
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I like the type 9 but not the standard ratios. 1st is total crap. I havnt compared with the Omega box yet. I have also got a Quaife straight cut box with different ratios, but that already has another home!
I would have to buy a type 9. I own an Omega box, so that is free!!! :y :y
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Good luck in finding a Type 9 in anything like useable condition these days. ;D
I would go Omega box and make the gearing a bit longer in the diff.
What are the diff ratios that are available for the Omega?
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The feel of the gearshift on the Omega manual is orrible :(
I was never sure whether it was down to the design of the box itself or due to the rubber & plastic in the gearbox extension and the lever :-\
If you stick an Omega box in a 7 (without the rubber & plastic) it would be good to know if there is a nice gearchange hiding in there somewhere :y
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The feel of the gearshift on the Omega manual is orrible :(
I was never sure whether it was down to the design of the box itself or due to the rubber & plastic in the gearbox extension and the lever :-\
If you stick an Omega box in a 7 (without the rubber & plastic) it would be good to know if there is a nice gearchange hiding in there somewhere :y
Only if you rush the shift and mistime it ::) get it right and it's a peach :y
I certainly don't recall the Type 9 being any better or worse tbh :-\ it was certainly a damn site more fragile than the MT75 or R25/30...
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Only if you rush the shift and mistime it ::) get it right and it's a peach :y
I certainly don't recall the Type 9 being any better or worse tbh :-\ it was certainly a damn site more fragile than the MT75 or R25/30...
The beauty of the type 9 is that you can get replacement gear kits for it, and you'll find plenty 2nd hand in kit car circles as people upgrade.
Omega gear ratios here:
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90453.0 (http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90453.0)
If you end up with the 3.95:1 1st gear it will be hopeless. Mine is bad enough at 3.6something. Looks like the 4 pot gearbox from the Omega is a better bet. Then again, if you have one, no harm in using it and seeing how you get on.
Certainly look into eliminating all rubber parts between gear stick and selector forks, though.
Regarding diff ratios, I reckon the 3.7 is the one to look for if using standard gear ratios and an Omega diff - or a 3.62 / 3.64 Ford diff.
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Checking the ratios, the V6 1st will be 3.95. That is even worse than the Type 9 3.65 :'( :'(.
But the diff ratio should be 3.9. So with the Redtop and some revs, ignore 1st and acceleration should be pretty good ;D ;D
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Just going back to my original query, are we sure the V6 gearbox will bolt onto the Red top engine?
I was just reading another blog and it says the bellhousing bolt pattern is different!!!
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Just going back to my original query, are we sure the V6 gearbox will bolt onto the Red top engine?
I was just reading another blog and it says the bellhousing bolt pattern is different!!!
will fit 100%
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Yes, the V6 and the big block 4 pot engines have the same bell housing pattern
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Checking the ratios, the V6 1st will be 3.95. That is even worse than the Type 9 3.65 :'( :'(.
But the diff ratio should be 3.9. So with the Redtop and some revs, ignore 1st and acceleration should be pretty good ;D ;D
Yep, that's probably the best strategy. Also depends to an extent what tuning work you are going to be doing and how you'll be using the car.
Mine started out on Weber carbs and a 3.9 diff. Ported head and fast road cams peaking at about 7200 RPM, IIRC. Engine is a 2.0 Zetec, so a close match to the C20XE. Tyres are 195/50/15, so about 890 wheel revs/mile. It wasn't too bad in that config. Long motorway runs were a bit revvy but not excessively so.
I then fitted injection and gained a lot more flexibility at sub-3000 RPM and a bit more power up at the top end. The 3.92 diff ended up feeling a bit short after this, and 1st gear was certainly a complete waste of time.
I swapped to a 3.64 diff and first is still quite short (it always will be unless you change to a close ratio gearset) but it will just keep traction through 1st at full throttle with sticky tyres. Whether it's worth the delay incurred by a gearchange at circa 30 MPH I'm not sure, but 2nd will take it from just rolling to 60 MPH, and it will actually launch in 2nd gear. It feels slower off the line, but I wouldn't mind betting the time to 60 isn't far off and quite possibly quicker.
I do do a lot of touring, however, and it now cruises effortlessly at 80MPH at about 3600 RPM in 5th and does 38 MPG.
If I were more track focussed, I'd probably drop back to 3.92 or an even shorter diff, forget 1st gear, and have a closer selection of gears further up the speed range, aiming for 5th gear to hit Vmax at peak power.
My current setup is a long way off that - no way it's going to make 160 MPH in 5th. ;D
You might want to consider if the Omega diff or a Sierra / Grandada diff is the best option. Both are pretty bomb proof and cheap as chips 2nd hand. I might put money on the sierra diff being a little lighter, but it does present more options if you get tempted by a LSD at a later stage.
Go on.. Put the Quaife box in it. You know you want to. ;D
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Oh, and I have a sierra 7" diff in the garage if you want me to weigh it?
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Oh, and I have a sierra 7" diff in the garage if you want me to weigh it?
I have a Sierra Diff. What does the Omega one weigh? Mine is still in the car!!
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Go on.. Put the Quaife box in it. You know you want to. ;D
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It is already in my much modified MGB race car. But not on track yet :'( :'( :'(