Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Andy A on 25 May 2014, 12:16:21
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I put a new Conti cambelt kit, new water pump and set the cambelt tension correctly.
If you have a look in the photo's the belt is sitting too far back on the pulleys and is touching the arrow on the timing belt tensioner as well. I have rotated the engine several times but still the belt sits too far back.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/53447058@N05/14262808172/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/53447058@N05/14264934775/in/photostream/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/53447058@N05/14264935175/in/photostream/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/53447058@N05/14241823876/in/photostream/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/53447058@N05/14078293058/in/photostream/
Any advice or suggestions would be welcome.
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Does yours have the mark for the water pump? I found big variation depending on water pump position. The lug on the pump should match the edge of the engine block
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Does yours have the mark for the water pump? I found big variation depending on water pump position. The lug on the pump should match the edge of the engine block
Tunnie this is the water pump I got with a lug, http://www.buypartsby.co.uk/details/VAUXHALL/OMEGA/2.2/2003/__/70/QCP3059/water-pump/
I'm wondering if I should start the engine and see if the belt centres. What do you think?
The water pump as you say will alter the belt tension, but will the belt tension effect the correct centring of the belt?
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Same one I got :)
Does the lug match up with the mark in the block? Mine did not appear to have a mark in the block. It should point to one of the bolts securing the alternator. Or there abouts.
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Same one I got :)
Does the lug match up with the mark in the block? Mine did not appear to have a mark in the block. It should point to one of the bolts securing the alternator. Or there abouts.
There is an indent in the cover between the alternator and the pump. I alighned it with that. :y
I altered the post above. What do you think?
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If belt is too loose/tight, can change things.
Have you checked the lower timing mark? On the crank pully? You need a mirror to see it :y
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Timing marks are all spot on. :y
What I did notice was, when I set the tension correct with the spark plus in after taking the spark plugs out it changed the tension setting. Maybe because there is less tension on the belt with out the compression when the plugs are in.
Should the belt tension be set with plugs in or out?
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I've always done them with plugs in :-\
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I done mine with the plugs in as well. I will leave the tension set as it is then. :y
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Tonnie forgot to ask. Is it safe for the electrics if I start the engine without the Aux belt on?
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Looking at the photos again, I would hope it would sort it self out like an aux belt which is just slipped on.
I'd let someone else confirm though :y
Yes you can run without aux belt on, not for long though, few seconds as no battery charge ect. Always a good test to seperate for aux belt to cam belt driven things :y
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Everything is correct so I might just start here up and see. Hopefully someone can confirm it before I do.
Do you know the torque stting for the plugs?
I'll let you know.
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Have you tried physically moving the belt to it`s correct position/s Andy
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Not yet.
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Looking at the pic, it seems you`ve not got the belt centralised on cam sprockets
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(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3769/14241823876_5b52638a31_s.jpg)
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I thought after turning the engine several times by hand that it would of centred by itself.
I'll try and pull it over when manually turning the engine and see if it stays there. Ill let you know.
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It's still going towards the engine block but not as far. Allot closer than the old belt was. I'll start the car and keep an eye on it.
Is this correct, 8Nm for the coil pack bolts?
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The belt seemed to stay a few mm away but the minute I started the engine the belt went tight into the engine block and it sounded very tappy. Although the oil had been drained from the car for a couple of weeks or more, so the tapping could be that I hope.
Any suggestions please
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Can anyone see anything wrong with my timing marks in the photo's?
https://www.flickr.com/photos/53447058@N05/14266346425/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/53447058@N05/14265955844/in/photostream/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/53447058@N05/14079644258/in/photostream/
Thanks
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If you get a bit of swarf behind one of the idler pulleys or don't to fit the correct thickness of washer between a pulley and the block then the cam belt will run out of alignment.
You can have the same problem if the lug on the water pump is in the wrong place which prevents the pump seating square to the block. If that happens it will normally widdle coolant all over the place before you get as far as starting the engine & throwing the cam belt.
I would have the tensioners off again to check that the correct washers are fitted behind each pulley & have another look at the water pump to check that the lug hasn't stopped it seating properly.
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If you get a bit of swarf behind one of the idler pulleys or don't to fit the correct thickness of washer between a pulley and the block then the cam belt will run out of alignment.
You can have the same problem if the lug on the water pump is in the wrong place which prevents the pump seating square to the block. If that happens it will normally widdle coolant all over the place before you get as far as starting the engine & throwing the cam belt.
I would have the tensioners off again to check that the correct washers are fitted behind each pulley & have another look at the water pump to check that the lug hasn't stopped it seating properly.
Rechecked everything and all was put together as it should be. I took off and measured the depth of the pulleys, tensioner and the water pump.
The brand new water pump, a CDWP02 from buypartsby is so far out of spec from the VX one it was forcing the belt over so far, that it was touching the engine block. I took the rubber seal from the new pump and stuck it on the old pump just to make sure it was the pump at fault. It is the new pump at fault. :o The belt is now centring as it should do.
I will be buying mostly VX parts in the future! :y
Thanks Andy and thanks to everyone else for your help. :y
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If you get a bit of swarf behind one of the idler pulleys or don't to fit the correct thickness of washer between a pulley and the block then the cam belt will run out of alignment.
You can have the same problem if the lug on the water pump is in the wrong place which prevents the pump seating square to the block. If that happens it will normally widdle coolant all over the place before you get as far as starting the engine & throwing the cam belt.
I would have the tensioners off again to check that the correct washers are fitted behind each pulley & have another look at the water pump to check that the lug hasn't stopped it seating properly.
Rechecked everything and all was put together as it should be. I took off and measured the depth of the pulleys, tensioner and the water pump.
The brand new water pump, a CDWP02 from buypartsby is so far out of spec from the VX one it was forcing the belt over so far, that it was touching the engine block. I took the rubber seal from the new pump and stuck it on the old pump just to make sure it was the pump at fault. It is the new pump at fault. :o The belt is now centring as it should do.
I will be buying mostly VX parts in the future! :y
Thanks Andy and thanks to everyone else for your help. :y
Top marks for observation and perseverance :y