Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: effinomega on 17 June 2014, 19:00:12
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Hi guys, gals and those happy to be whatever. :D
First of all, apologies for the long post, but wanted to give you all as much info as I could at the start.
I picked up my current miggy at end of April. Thanks to the forum, I’ve so far been able to sort some minor issues…
Passenger seat electric motor jam.
Heater control arm issue.
Bonnet release cable adjustment.
Replaced the micro switches in both front door CL motors.
Fitted a rear parking sensor kit.
Other jobs that need doing are fitting replacement Aircon compressor, new rear springs, rear donuts and probably a full exhaust soon too).
However, these can wait till later because I have a more urgent problem, or two, and seek some help.
Some info of car
53 plate, 2.2CD Auto. Been looked after with fsh, receipts for work done in the past. Last owner recently had new front wishbones, front discs pads fitted. It’s also had new cam belt and water pump work done last year.
I’ve read through alot of the forum and searched as much as I can but still can’t resolve the first issue. The second problem is more concerning and is leading me down a worrying path to what the real problem may be.
First problem – loosing coolant
When I first got the car it was driving fine and like other migs I’ve had in the past but since driving about 30miles daily I noticed that the coolant level needed a little top up each week.
In the last few weeks this coolant loss has gotten worse to the point where I need to put in approx. 300ml each day.
I’ve looked everywhere for the water leak but can’t find it anywhere. Checked the HBV etc, no leaks. Nothing visible in engine bay, nor the interior footwells either. Did a pressure test, well my mate did, but no loss of pressure noted. The car had blue coolant so I drained, flushed and refilled using red coolant, just in case it was boiling off and steaming out the cap. This hasn’t made any difference.
Second problem – running rough after starting
Coincidentally, or not, the car has started to be a little lumpy upon starting for about 10secs or so. Blipping the pedal usually made it go back to smooth idle but yesterday it didn’t go smooth and the EML light came on. I took it to a mates to use his reader and it said cyl 3 was miss-firing. He cleared the code but something still not right on my way home.
At home I took out the plugs and have ordered new ones as they look a little tired. Coil pack looks ok and there isn’t any oil or water in the plug wells.
Removed and cleaned the Throttle Body and cleaned out the breathers. Only a slight build-up of gunge.
Oil levels is fine and looks in good health, but will be changed soon.
No mayo in dipstick or on filler cap.
No smell of exhaust fumes in water header, nor any oil.
Now, the above issues combined are leading to think it may be the dreaded HG failure but I’ll know more after I have a compression test done at the weekend. I don't have any tech info for the 2.2 - what would the compression parameters be?
Hoping that someone here will be able to help, as my brain is now getting all muddled with the possibilities, and I’d like to keep the car for a few more years.
Thanks in advance.
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Hi,
I've had this on a couple of mine in the past with exactly the same symptoms where unbelievably the HG was leaking coolant into the cylinder/s with no cross contamination of the oil and water.
It was plain as day once the head was off as you could clearly see where the HG had failed.
I know its not what you want to hear, I'm just telling you my experiences. Also, before doing a compression test pull the spark plugs and turn it over to make sure there's no coolant in the cylinder so you don't kill your comp tester like I did ::) you might even notice the coolant spray out when you first spin it over.
One more thing to bear in mind is that a comp test doesn't always show up the problem.
Anyway, that's just me and I'm really unlucky :P head gasket's not the end of the world by a long way and hopefully its not that anyway :y
Simon.
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Problem 1, check the o rings on the radiator drain screw aren't letting coolant past, did on mine and did my head in as it didn't drip when switched off. 300 ml a day is a faif bit though :-\
problem 2, sounds like it could be coil pack to me , anyone local have one you could try swapping with?
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does it only run lumpy when cold, then clear? That is the way the HG's can go :'(
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Guys,
Thanks for the quick responses, appreciated. :y
Simon - lol, this was what I was thinking dreading :-\
Omegod - the rad drain was the first thing I looked at as I had one of these leak one an earlier beast. Double checked again after the coolant changed too, unfortunately it looks fine. in fact the whole rad looks sound all round seams as well. Don't have access to another coil pack but may try getting hold of a second hand unit as a first resort. No one else I know has a mega.
Tunnie - it started off only doing this first thing in the morning then gradually got to stage that it happens every time its been sitting for a few hours.
So, I may try the coil pack before going down the HG route full tilt. At least the guides in here look good for this. I've only ever done one before and that was on a Granada 2ltr lump many years ago.
Any of you know who would skim the head in Lanarkshire?
Going to work now and won't get a chance to respond until this time tomorrow.
Cheers
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Sorry to say, sounds HG to me :'(
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ahh, keich. I need to use it for getting to work until the bits arrive. Will I knacker it further as long as I keep an eye on the water levels?
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An idea ??? that I've used in the past, admittedly never on an Omega though ...
Drain the system and refill with just water to which you add a bottle of bright yellow food dye, then try the fault finding, including leaving overnight then before starting insert a piece of clean white cloth into each cylinder through the spark plug hole - i've used a straightened wire coat hook in the past - and move it about on the top of the piston.
On removing IF the coolant is getting into the cylinder - head gasket failure - then the cloth will be wet and yellow. If the cloth is clean and dry then it ain't the HG - the bright yellow coolant might then help you find the external leak.
Due to the anti-corrosion properties of antifreeze don't leave it like this for more than a couple of days but drain, flush to remove the dye, and refill with coolant mixed appropriately
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You can buy cheap USB pencil/endoscope/borescope cameras off eBay that are 10mm or less in diameter. Things like this
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2M-Mini-USB-Borescope-Endoscope-Waterproof-4-LED-Light-Snake-Tube-Video-Camera-/141120661203?pt=UK_BOI_Medical_Lab_Equipment_Lab_Equipment_ET&hash=item20db7266d3
These will fit down the spark plug hole into the bore. Water getting into the bore will tend to steam clean it, and leave a residue on the piston crown overnight. So bung it down each bore in turn and take a looksie. If one of the pistons is cleaner than the rest, or if there are beads of water then :-X
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Thanks for the ideas guys, both are well worth a try. Hopefully get a chance to do these tests and will feedback on results. Cheers ;)
PS. Got into the car this morning and it started fine, appeared to run on all four, got me home without any issues and lost some coolant as expected. Hopefully by carrying out the suggestions being provided, I'll get to the bottom of it soon.
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I think that Simon is right and i agree with tunnie........I have had 6....2.2 omegas and 3 suffered head gasket failure..they are prone to it for some unknown reason......mine were anywhere between 70,000 and 102,000 miles when it went....on my previous 2.2 it had exactly the same symptoms as yours and on that occasion i just kept topping it up....silly me....because on a cold dark wet windy winters night on my return from st.neots after doing my father in law a favour....the crap hit the fan...without warning temp gauge went right up and car juddered..clattered..i managed to get it to a lay by and waited a half hour and then tried to start it,,,,,there was an awfull thud as the pistons went up and hit the bores which were full of water...Not only did i have to have the h.g.done but it had smashed the starter motor to pieces when i foolishly tried to restart it....The moral of my story is.....it is a 2.2 so do not ignore the symptoms it will bite your backside just like it did with me.... ??? ??? :'( :'(
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I think that Simon is right and i agree with tunnie........I have had 6....2.2 omegas and 3 suffered head gasket failure..they are prone to it for some unknown reason......mine were anywhere between 70,000 and 102,000 miles when it went....on my previous 2.2 it had exactly the same symptoms as yours and on that occasion i just kept topping it up....silly me....because on a cold dark wet windy winters night on my return from st.neots after doing my father in law a favour....the crap hit the fan...without warning temp gauge went right up and car juddered..clattered..i managed to get it to a lay by and waited a half hour and then tried to start it,,,,,there was an awfull thud as the pistons went up and hit the bores which were full of water...Not only did i have to have the h.g.done but it had smashed the starter motor to pieces when i foolishly tried to restart it....The moral of my story is.....it is a 2.2 so do not ignore the symptoms it will bite your backside just like it did with me.... ??? ??? :'( :'(
I'm on borrowed time, 171k and not gone yet :o
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Guess what I'll probably be doing at the weekend then. :'( Was hoping someone was gonna say it was the cam sensor or similar level of easiness.
I've ordered some kit that should be here by the weekend. Gasket set, new bolts etc.
If it hasn't overheated, do you think I'll still need to get the head skimmed?
I'll keep the post updated between now and the end of the job with some pics if I can.
Cheers for now.
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Tunnie,fingers crossed then or is it that you are a gentle driver :y
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Guess what I'll probably be doing at the weekend then. :'( Was hoping someone was gonna say it was the cam sensor or similar level of easiness.
I've ordered some kit that should be here by the weekend. Gasket set, new bolts etc.
If it hasn't overheated, do you think I'll still need to get the head skimmed?
I'll keep the post updated between now and the end of the job with some pics if I can.
Cheers for now.
I know Jamesv6cdxy type name would say not and he's done quite a few, straight edge on the head surface will give you a good idea of it's condition
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Update.
LC0112G - I forgot I had one of those lying about after buying it to see down some cavity walls. Did the trick tonight.
It's defo the HG. Ran like a donkey with no back legs earlier, got the 0303 code for cyl 3 again. Got it home, let it sit for a few hours and then took the plugs out. Put the camera down and it instantly got submerged in cyl3. Took the cam out as couldn't see anything but fish and tasted it - bloody coolant. At least I know my upcoming weekend efforts won't be a waste of time & money for sure.
Found a local engineering co that will skim the head for £40. In fact, head skims are one of their main services and they supply a gasket :D
As said earlier, I'll take notes and pics of progress at the weekend, just in case it helps anyone in the future.
Cheers for now all and thanks again for all the suggestions.
Happy days.
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If there is that much water in the bore I'm surprised you haven't already hydraulic-ed it :(
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I know. Scary stuff.
Hopefully be sorted soon.
Cheers
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its always a good thing to get it skimmed, i have a place over i use he skims the head and pressure tests it before hand to check for fractures. in fact my header tank is getting a little dirty...
175,000mls on a 2.0i 16v...is it going to go my way????
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so the valves stay in during the skimming so the pressure test can be done?
cheers
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so the valves stay in during the skimming so the pressure test can be done?
cheers
At it's simplest, the pressure test is normally just the water ways. They bung up all but one water hole, and then apply a compressed air line to the remaining hole. They then dunk the whole lot in a water bath, and watch for air bubbles. This will detect cracks in the valve seats to water ways.
You can also do the same thing for the oil ways, but you usually need to ask for it - most places won't do it by default.
The problem is that it's not 100% reliable, because some cracks can open up once the head gets hot, and close again when it cools. Pressure testing is usually done at room temp, so it won't reveal cracks that open up when hot. To find these cracks you have to get the head ultrasonically scanned, which ain't cheap.
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That's it all back together and is running well so far. Real test will be the thirty miles to work and back tomorrow.
Big thanks to all those that replied and to those that put up the helpful guides, it would've been impossible without them.
I took a couple of pics but decided they weren't going to help any more than the great posts on here already.
Cheers