Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: joff on 05 July 2014, 20:21:03
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How do you remove a housing from a 2.6 face lift when the whole body turn, I know others have had this in the past? This 2.6 I got hold off must have been service by a right d#%k last time! why do it up so tight. :o
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Can you rotate the body a complete turn? There's supposed to be a lug on the back of it to stop it moving more than a couple of mm :-\
If you can indeed turn it 360°, then try putting pressure between the housing and the block as you turn it... this might unscrew the retaining bolt :y
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Just to clarify, are you trying to undo the end cap but the body is turning, or do you want to remove the body.
If it's the end cap, you could use a strap wrench on the body to stop it turning and a socket on the end cap.
If it's the body, are you trying to undo the hollow bolt? :-\
Sorry if I've got the wrong end of the stick. :)
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OK, so the body is turning 360deg and I have had a go with a strap wrench, still turns the whole thing. I have taken one of them off before ( the whole thing which is why I have a spare). It's not unscrewing just going round and round. There is not enough room to get a Stilson on it to hold it, and the strap wrench (chain type) will not hold it, it dug in and put a mark on the outside of the body but still the whole thing turns :-\
Thing is I don't know the service history of this car, did they do it up so tight it snapped the lug off? I just don't know. I may have to destroy it to get it off, but I think I will confirm the location of the spare first ;)
Makes me wonder when the filter was last changed :-\
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I think the issue is the length of time between oil changes. Oil gets in the threads and effectively glues that cap on with heat. I know I do mine up to barely tight, but if I leave the oil change too long, it takes proportionately more effort to undo the longer its left undisturbed ime.
Not something us oofers will encounter normally, once it's undone of course.
As said though, needs a way to hold the body still while undoing the cap. Strap wrench etc.
First time I did my first 3.2, nearly pulled the car off the stands it was that tight/glued on. :(
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Took mine off an replaced with the correct type of filter the spin on type. :y :y
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Took mine off an replaced with the correct type of filter the spin on type. :y :y
Makes no odds once its loose though. Still got to get the damn thing off.
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As the seal is an O Ring and the problem is caused by gunked/fried oil, I wonder if you could get a bit of localised heat to the end of it without damaging anything else, or would it fry it on more? :-\
Pretty close to crank sensor but are there any other cables nearby. :-\
Strap wrench on, socket at the ready, blow lamp on and being very careful it might just work. A second pair of hands would help, so that it doesn't cool down too much. Put a solder mat over the top to protect other bits.
I don't mean fry it, just warm it up a bit. New filter comes with a new O Ring anyway. :y
Obviously common sense comes in to it where flammable liquids are concerned.
Does that sound a bit dangerous. ::) ;D
Next post will be:
Well you see, I was using this blow lamp on my petrol engine when .......... ;D ;D
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I did think about a blow lamp but very quickly put it out of my mind. :y will report later with any update.
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Find your spare and break it off, :y
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Once you have done it, you need to remove the whole thing and refit properly.
As dr.gixer says, I suspect its either last done by a monkey, or it hasn't been done for a while.
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As the lug must have come off :o :o I am going to break up the body below the cap then remove the whole thing as I have found my spare ::) ::) but the cap on that is not 100% but the one on the car is. More to follow
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Spare housing now on the car with a nice new filter to boot. :y had to slowly smash the old housing under the cap depth, so as not to damage it ( will remove that at a later date, old housing did not have a lug ever, the spare has but they have different markings on the inside
Old has 1/1
Spare has 1/3 with a 3/4 round lug so body can only turn about 10 deg each way :y
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Obviously a development at some point, probably as a result of warranty claims for seized caps...
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Obviously a development at some point, probably as a result of warranty claims for seized caps...
Think you could be right :y how many have the dealers had to take off like this
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It doesn't help that there is no locking mechanism on the retaining bolt... Even a reverse thread might improve matters... Say tighten the bolt to 60 nm with a lefthand thread, then tighten the cap to 15 nm on a righthand thread. That way if the cap sticks then you'll only tighten the body :-\
Spin on conversion is the way forward though :y
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It doesn't help that there is no locking mechanism on the retaining bolt... Even a reverse thread might improve matters... Say tighten the bolt to 60 nm with a lefthand thread, then tighten the cap to 15 nm on a righthand thread. That way if the cap sticks then you'll only tighten the body :-\
Spin on conversion is the way forward though :y
IYHO Mr Al ;)
I think the canisters are the way to go. Just don't tell Gixer, or he'll be on about FLs being superior blah blah blah.
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Lol ;D I won't tell if you don't...
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Oh don't start, I'm confused as to which is which already. ;D
The only reason for a spin on, is to stop the threads sticking on long oil change intervals. But as said, you've still got to remove the cap anyway. Once its off, no problem. :)
But given us oofers are mostly on a 5k interval, its pointless. 7k still pointless. Getting on for 10k ( :-[ ) does start get sticky by then. I Imagine 15-20k is asking for trouble.
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I imagine 15-20k is asking for trouble.
Can't think anyone here would leave it that long..... :-\ ::) ;D
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I imagine 15-20k is asking for trouble.
Can't think anyone here would leave it that long..... :-\ ::) ;D
Your a very naughty boy Sir Tigger. ;D
What's on yours, spin on?
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I imagine 15-20k is asking for trouble.
Can't think anyone here would leave it that long..... :-\ ::) ;D
Your a very naughty boy Sir Tigger. ;D
What's on yours, spin on?
No, welded on! :D
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I oil change all my Omega's at 6 months or 5K which ever comes first, at less than £20 with trade club oil and Vauxhall filter it's mad not to :y