Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Omega VT3000 on 15 July 2014, 13:23:41
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Hi all,
I wonder if any of you fine Omega wizards can assist with a quirky issue with my Omega please?
The car has been off the road for the thick end of 2 years. I have replaced the plugs and coil pack as it previosuly had a misfire across the whole rev range. Having changed the ignition components, the car runs sweet as a nut and flew through an MoT with no issues including good emissions.
Coming home on a long journey at the weekend, the car started to experience an intermittent issue. When you depress the clutch, the revs fall off and the car stalls whilst on the move. That in itself isn't so much of an issue when you are in straight line but coming up to a roundabout it becomes a little dangerous given the PAS assistance disappears. When it is playing up, it can also miss under load. The issue can also disappear quite quickly and the car behaves perfectly.
There is no indication that the problem is occuring until the first stall happens, basically, the revs fall to the idle level (circa 500 rpm) but when it it's playing up, it simply keeps dropping to nothing unless you can get to the throttle to increase the revs. There are no warning lights displayed on the dash and no limp mode indications.
In the two years it was off the road, it was stored in a dry garage with under 1/4 of a tank of fuel. It has since had a fuel tank for fresh fuel mixed in with the two year old stuff.
Any ideas as I am about to take the car off the road again as it is dangerous to drive when the issue arises?
Thanks all.
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What Engine?
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Sorry, 3.0 V6 in a 2000 V facelift.
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ICV or crank sensor are the favourites.
given the occasional miss I would be erring towards the crank sensor
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Sounds like a failing Crank Sensor, but no harm in cleaning the ICV first.
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As above, does sound like a failing crank sensor. Same symptoms as my dads when he owned one. It never failed to start but occasionally stalled coming up to a junction and had a very occasional miss-fire. Went fine in between but obviously would have given up in the end.
Is this the police one James? Don't suppose you still have either of your other omega's to poach one from to confirm it do you, assuming the part number matches? :-\
Regards
Alan
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If revs are preventing it, I reckon I might be trying to clean the ICV first.
Try a code reader, or paperclip test (see Guides section) and post up any codes. Ignore any 31s stored, as this could take you down a false line of enquiry.
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If revs are preventing it, I reckon I might be trying to clean the ICV first.
Try a code reader, or paperclip test (see Guides section) and post up any codes. Ignore any 31s stored, as this could take you down a false line of enquiry.
No harm in cleaning the ICV first but the miss under load coincides with the stalling, which in our case was the crank sensor. :-\
Agreed that you shouldn't chuck money at it without confirming though. :y
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When it is playing up, it can also miss under load. The issue can also disappear quite quickly and the car behaves perfectly.
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Being a 3.0l, if no codes are present in the ECU, worth checking over the HT side (visually). DIS, leads and plugs (and plugwells!)
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Cheers all. It has a new DIS and plugs but not leads. I have access to an end of life R-reg so may borrow the ICV and crank sensor off that to see if that helps. I am also wondering if the crank sensor got as wet as the DIS when I was driving it a couple of years ago when the original misfire started and that has knackered it.
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Crank sensor is sealed, cannot get wet. Not all crank sensors same either. Also adding unknown parts.
Have you read the codes?
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I don't have access to a Tech 2 but the advice came from a Vauxhall tech. His thoughts are to do with wart getting drawn into the wiring causing corrosion as opposed to getting in to the sensor itself.
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I don't have access to a Tech 2 but the advice came from a Vauxhall tech. His thoughts are to do with wart getting drawn into the wiring causing corrosion as opposed to getting in to the sensor itself.
All you need is a paper clip ;)
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90581.0 (http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90581.0)
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I would replace the ICV meself first not the crank sensor as the car would be hard to restart if it was that....
ICV is common to drop off revs when coming to idle from a journey, better to replace rather than clean as cleaning tends to make them worse Iv found from experience :)
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I don't have access to a Tech 2 but the advice came from a Vauxhall tech. His thoughts are to do with wart getting drawn into the wiring causing corrosion as opposed to getting in to the sensor itself.
Ha ha ha, lol, pmsl......sorry, cant stop laughing.
Looking very much forward to his explanation as to the physics of that.
But yes, beware as there are a couple of crank sensor types and they have slightly different length pickups.
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I would replace the ICV meself first not the crank sensor as the car would be hard to restart if it was that....
ICV is common to drop off revs when coming to idle from a journey, better to replace rather than clean as cleaning tends to make them worse Iv found from experience :)
You not doing it right then :y
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I respect your knowledge Mark, but I know how to clean something :)
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I respect your knowledge Mark, but I know how to clean something :)
There are a few people here whose knowledge can be taken as Gospel. Mark is very much of that number :y
The V6 Crankshaft sensor, and the Fourpot Camshaft sensor should be viewed as service items and changed every 4-6 years or 80-120k :y
Cleaning the Idle Control Valve can only help, especially if it has never been done before :y
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I plan to order a new crank sensor after pay day. I took the IAC valve off yesterday and it was full of gunky sh1t. Carb cleaner has sorted and it's shiny again. Got a new fuel filter to put in too.
Thanks to everyone for their help.
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I plan to order a new crank sensor after pay day. I took the IAC valve off yesterday and it was full of gunky sh1t. Carb cleaner has sorted and it's shiny again. Got a new fuel filter to put in too.
Thanks to everyone for their help.
Symptomatic of blocked breathers.
If the IAC is full of gunk then the breathers will be worse.
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Aye, give the breathers a good clean as well, if you haven't already :y
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I am in no hurry to use the car so I can do these bits too, thanks all. :y
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Good news chaps and chapesses. I finally got ,y sh1t together and changed the bits on the car. So far, so good. I haven't done the breathers yet but I have cleaned the IAC valve out, changed the fuel filter and the crank sensor.
Doing the fuel filter was a son of a ..... as there isn't enough room on an estate to easily get mole grips/pliers to the so-called 'quick release' connectors. Not a job to do yourself if you don't like a petrol shower!!
Crank sensor was a doddle. I took the scuttle off for better access, tied a piece of string to old connector and pulled it down from the bottom. When the string was through I tied the new connector to the string and pulled it back up again. Hey presto!!
FYI - if anyone is interested in seeing the car, it will be at the NEC Classic & Sports Car Show at the Birmingham NEC from the 14th to 16th November 2014.
Thanks again to all for the help.
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Woof just replace the lot aye? I was going to post almost certainly icv clean would fix it as all the description refers to tick over instances.
But the main reason for the post is to advise on the cs cable routing. And that following the guide on cs replacememt is most wise. You don't want the cable down the back of the engine. Too many heat sources, which is suspected, partly, to be the cause of failure.
Fingers crossed it's sorted though :y