Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Car Chat => Topic started by: JamesV6CDX on 12 October 2014, 11:24:38
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I have the option to buy a brand new v6 engine. Apparently it's never been run. Its sadly not a 3.0+, it's s 2.5, but still!
It's one of the later 2.5's (the fifth bolt on the Cambelt cover gives it away)
It's been sat in a barn all it's life!
A chap at work has told me it belongs to one of his friends who I think was going to fit it but then made other plans and it just sat there.
Price wise it's a steal. Should I fit it to my CDX (with v good bodywork) to get the best of both worlds? :y
I wonder what it will need to run. Definitely a Cambelt kit! I wonder if the cam cover gaskets will have deteriorated too.
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(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k205/jamesv6cdx/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps22fa9a0e.jpg)
I should mention the chap is very trustworthy, no doubts there at all.
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(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k205/jamesv6cdx/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsd29504b4.jpg)
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Fit the 2.6 manifolds, plenum, ancillaries etc and it'll be plug and play :y
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I should say it's sat a long time - 13 years ish!!
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If that has been stored with exhaust and inlet ports left open it could well be a doorstop,does it turn over by hand?
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If that has been stored with exhaust and inlet ports left open it could well be a doorstop,does it turn over by hand?
I haven't seen it yet, I'd be surprised if it was ruined though, my mates mg engine sat for twice that time, and fired up with no drama :y
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Worth a drop of oil in the bores before turning by hand ? :y
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I'm with Henry :-\ but would add that turning it over with out completely stripping it will ruin it, as all you will do is grind dust and shit into the bores/valves/bearings :-\
By completely stripping it, I mean literally every last nut/bolt/bearing cap... right down to a bare block and heads... in order that it be completely clean. Not a quick blast out with an airline.
Even the plugs are out, the insides could be full of moisture, dust, debris, spiders, mice... be a nice winter project rebuilding it, but only if you don't turn it over :-\
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Guy a few doors down has old motors stashed in his garage.
One of them hadnt been fired up for a while so when he did, he found the bearing caps had attached themselves to the crank,
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Personally, I wouldn't want to pay anything for it, especially as I don't have a specific use for the thing.
At the very least it's going to want a cambelt and some gaskets; I wouldn't be surprised to find leaky oil seals when in use.
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That looks like it's been stored in such a damp environment that it needs a rebuild before use, IMHO. If the plugs have been left out it will be knackered, I reckon.
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How can you see that the plugs are out? I can see the lack of HT leads, but the plugs are well down the bore and you'd be unlikely to be able to see them from those pictures. :-\
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How can you see that the plugs are out? I can see the lack of HT leads, but the plugs are well down the bore and you'd be unlikely to be able to see them from those pictures. :-\
Fair point, but even so...
If its never been run, why are there carbon deposits in the throttle intake :-\
Certainly wouldn't be paying money for it...
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How can you see that the plugs are out? I can see the lack of HT leads, but the plugs are well down the bore and you'd be unlikely to be able to see them from those pictures. :-\
Fair point, but even so...
If its never been run, why are there carbon deposits in the throttle intake :-\
Certainly wouldn't be paying money for it...
I wouldn't of though a crate engine would include the intake fanimold ???
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Why on earth would you bother? ??? :o
We're not talking about the last ever made spitfire engine... it's a ten a penny Vx ecowreck engine :-X
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How can you see that the plugs are out? I can see the lack of HT leads, but the plugs are well down the bore and you'd be unlikely to be able to see them from those pictures. :-\
Fair point, but even so...
If its never been run, why are there carbon deposits in the throttle intake :-\
Certainly wouldn't be paying money for it...
I wouldn't of though a crate engine would include the intake fanimold ???
When I enquired, VX supply the assembled sump, block and heads... can't remember if it included cam covers, but no WP or manifolds
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As others have said, that needs a full strip down and rebuild! :o :o :o :o
Any oil inside would by now be pure grunge and the piston rods would have been resting on one particular part of the crankshaft and if not rusted to them will certainly have literally made their mark on it! The shells may well have been distorted and fully seized up so require a strip down at the very least. All rubber seals on the crankshaft and all over the engine no doubt have perished, and I would think that the piston rings are most likely seized with crap all around them.
No, a full rebuild is required! :y :y
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How can you see that the plugs are out? I can see the lack of HT leads, but the plugs are well down the bore and you'd be unlikely to be able to see them from those pictures. :-\
Fair point, but even so...
If its never been run, why are there carbon deposits in the throttle intake :-\
Certainly wouldn't be paying money for it...
I wouldn't of though a crate engine would include the intake fanimold ???
New gmx lump,is that a lump. No manifolds,no inlets,no plenum,no sensors. Its a bare lump,you have to dress it.
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A full rebuild is probably unnecessary. Probably.
But you're only going to know with a major stripdown, with all the time and cost that entails. It's not like taking a chance and dropping an engine into a Capri or Escort where you can go from running to running in an hour with a rope, scaffold pole and another pair of hands. Which is why I wouldn't be paying anything for it, as I would rather buy one that's recently been removed from a driving car.
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A full rebuild is probably unnecessary. Probably.
But you're only going to know with a major stripdown, with all the time and cost that entails. It's not like taking a chance and dropping an engine into a Capri or Escort where you can go from running to running in an hour with a rope, scaffold pole and another pair of hands. Which is why I wouldn't be paying anything for it, as I would rather buy one that's recently been removed from a driving car.
Yep,I agree,it's too much graft to fit it not knowing if it'll work and for how long :y
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if its the right price . well worth stripping down
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if its the right price . well worth stripping down
The right price being free :y
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A full rebuild is probably unnecessary. Probably.
But you're only going to know with a major stripdown, with all the time and cost that entails. It's not like taking a chance and dropping an engine into a Capri or Escort where you can go from running to running in an hour with a rope, scaffold pole and another pair of hands. Which is why I wouldn't be paying anything for it, as I would rather buy one that's recently been removed from a driving car.
:o :o ;D ;D ;D In other words a full rebuild as I said Nick ;D ;D ;D ;D ;)
If you strip the engine right down as we both agree then you might as well replace all the seals, rubbers and gaskets. You should also clean all surfaces within the engine and have the pistons out to check/replace the piston rings. Whilst you do that a new set of shells can be added. I would also check all mating surfaces such as the head to ensure there has been no warping. The cam shaft also requires a thorough inspection for corrosion damage, along with the followers whose seals may need attention. If water has penetrated the engine in an obviously damp environment that it has been kept in for 13 years, I would expect rust on the cylinder walls, so expect to buff those up at least. The water pump I would also change.
That engine is NOT in "as new" condition, far from it, so I would go for that rebuild approach as, you rightly state, it would be a waste of time to install the engine after fitting a new cam belt, fit new electrics, couple everything up, only to find it is a dud, or maybe turns for a minute or ten before seizing solid. That is why I said a full rebuild. ;) ;)
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I've fitted worse! :D
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I've fitted worse! :D
:o :o ;D
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if its the right price . well worth stripping down
The right price being free :y
Okay.....I'll beg the question. How much is he asking for it?
How much have you paid?
I have no idea what a 'new' Omega engine is worth. :)
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Not paid anything yet. I think an offer in region of £100 will see it in the garage. It's be worth that for the oil cooler
How can heads be warped if it's never ran?
I don't see carbon deposits on the plenum but if they exist that's a worry....
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Dark staining in the bottom of the inlets... might only be from storage, but indicates a pooling of summat :-\
Bare 3.2 was about £1800 new... or less than 4 VW PD injectors ;D
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As said, if it was a new engine, it would have been block, heads and cam covers only, and no ancillaries. That plenum would probably have been 2nd hand, so that might explain the staining.
A new engine would also have the intake and exhaust ports bunged up to stop moisture and dust getting in. I can see a red seal on the oil pressure switch connection, actually. If those seals are intact, then it might have survived OK.
I still can't see the point of swapping a (presumably) working engine for it, though. An old engine is approximately the same as a brand new engine, right up to the point when it throws a rod or drops a valve. At that point, change it, by all means, but it's a waste of effort beforehand, as the engine will likely outlast the bodywork.
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Is this a brand new engine or a remanufactured exchange engine? You can tell from the engine number stamp. If there is a plaque on it, then it's a remanufactured lump.
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It does look rough. :-\
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That looks as rough as a badgers arse.
And the fact its not turned for 10 years is bad as there will be rusting of the bores and rings and as much as this will go when fired up, the depth of pitting is unknown and the damage is done.
In fact, you see V6's in better external condition after they have been run under the bonnet of a car for 20 years!
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Not paid anything yet. I think an offer in region of £100 will see it in the garage. It's be worth that for the oil cooler
How can heads be warped if it's never ran?
I don't see carbon deposits on the plenum but if they exist that's a worry....
How do you know it never ran?
Looking at that picture I would assume nothing James and look for the worst. That way it can only be better than expected! ;)
As I said an engine sitting around in that environment which has created such a terrible external condition must need stripping down so you can really understand it's internal condition. Oil has not flowed over those surfaces for a long time, and if you believe it has never run, then oil has never flowed over all the parts to maintain the exposed surfaces. :y
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Going with the majority, I might just stick with the engine in the 2.6 and do a top end overhaul then. I can still buy / rebuild this one for fun :y
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Going with the majority, I might just stick with the engine in the 2.6 and do a top end overhaul then. I can still buy / rebuild this one for fun :y
Exactly what i'm doing James. Got a 3.0l block on order for same reason :y
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Going with the majority, I might just stick with the engine in the 2.6 and do a top end overhaul then. I can still buy / rebuild this one for fun :y
OR I could use my proven, faithful, lightning quick 3.0 lump from my breaker in it!! ;D :y