Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: philich on 10 November 2014, 20:45:52
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Can anybody tell me which crank sensor should be fitted to my 2.5 v6,it a W Reg facelift car
Is it the Siemens or the Bosch ?
The reason I am asking is I believe I may have been fitted with the wrong one
Thanks
Phil
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What makes you think you have the wrong one? No-starter? :(
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It’s a long story but the car the engine when hot would not go above 3000 revs, I replaced like for like, a Siemens unit, this cleared the problem
It looked like it had been changed before, maybe twice the old cables were just cut off
Its done about 500 miles and now when it gets hot it keeps cutting out and saying no signal(but not putting the dash light on} I clear the code then 5 minutes later it comes back
Now I have read that putting the wrong type in, they may run for a while and then cause problems
( I have swopped engines but that’s another story )
Phil
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Might be wrong type then :(
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That’s what I was thinking, the car was facelift just before they went to 2.6 so its in no man’s land in a lot of areas
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Seems like many thing in omega's are kind of no man's land :( But having been around them long enough makes you remember all these small variants of variants that vary of some other variant ::)
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In the maintenance guide, V6, crank sensor change, there is a note for 2.5 engines, saying make of sensor is critical and must be same as original. Siemens is most common and is the one Vx dealers will sell you for the 2.5. I have had 2 CPS failures on 2.5s, in each case original was Siemens. In first case (V reg) I bought Vx Siemens, no trouble , still running well after two years. In second case (X reg) I bought cheap e-bay sensor, claiming to be Siemens, right part number, for £25. It worked perfectly. Then I read awful tales of cheap sensors, so bought genuine Siemens from Vx dealer, and fitted it. After two weeks and 400 miles, it failed (engine stopped, after half an hour restarted). I replaced cheap sensor, it worked perfectly. I returned genuine Vx sensor for replacement; I got a replacement, but it was a struggle. I still have it as a spare.
My conclusion - 2.5 V6s are peculiarly sensitive to crank position sensors. getting a good one is tricky.
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Thanks
Yes mine was a W Reg and Yes it’s a Ebay Siemens type but the wiring is a real mix that’s why I am thinking it should be the later Bosh type
I was hoping someone has a similar model year and may know
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Thanks
Yes mine was a W Reg and Yes it’s a Ebay Siemens type but the wiring is a real mix that’s why I am thinking it should be the later Bosh type
I was hoping someone has a similar model year and may know
Do you know the reg of the car the engine came from :-\
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Hi
yes its X 151 NNP
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Hi
yes its X 151 NNP
Order one for that reg :y
Actually, that only applies if you fitted the ecu and loom from that car at the same time as the engine :-\
If you kept your loom and ecu, then your reg is the one you need for ordering...
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Hi thanks
Yes the complete wiring loom and ecu were transferred but after reading the link http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=96562.0
And considering that is one of the last 2.5 then I would have maybe expected to see a Bosh part not the Siemens which has failed again, and if what’s said in the article is to be believed then the main agents can’t get it right
You see my problem
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We feel your pain, most of us have been there! Also welcome to the forum :y
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Car referred to in message 6 was X84GNB engine no, 08351729 chassis no. WOLOVBM35Y1003159, quite near your donor car, it had a Siemens CPS sensor and the Vx genuine replacement soon failed. Car was scrapped in April 2014.
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Thanks for the info guys
My chassis was WOLOVBM69Y1147343 Looks like try a £25 cheapy from EBay and hope the best
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facepalm.
The only option is to get genuine Vx - wherever that comes from, either Luton, or you get a known decent one from a scrap car. (and this in itself raises a can of worms discussion - if it fails after a week -it was a waste of money, if it's still ok 8 years later, well, it was two mins well spent) but a pattern / other one will wither-
-work fine for a day or a week, maybe a month, who knows?... then fail
-not work at all, but you'll be convinced the engine isn't working for some other reason, after all you've just replaced the crank sensor, haven't you?
-work terribly. Again, as above, you'll start looking elsewhere for the cause of the issue.
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Give me the £25 you're planning on spending on ebay. Then get down to local dealer and buy a genuine one. You'll be no worse off :-X
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Give me the £25 you're planning on spending on ebay. Then get down to local dealer and buy a genuine one. You'll be no worse off :-X
:D :D
We don't want to come across as rude, or anything, but seriously, there's only a few bits you really, really, really want to be getting genuine GM, vertical suspension bushes, crank sensors being two. Most of the rest can be personal preference, some say genuine Vx, other say pattern / aftermarket. But crank sensors, please, genuine onlyyyy. If you're on a budget then the 2nd hand route I mention. But that may be as false economy as buying pattern, of course. But it's no more a gamble anyone takes with any second hand part. Geniune GM, genuine GM, genuine GM (ie Semens or Boshh) :y
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Thanks Guys
Back to work tonight, so its going to be next week before I can look at again, I will take it out and check its gone in right, pretty sure it has.
My worry is if I buy a genuine one, can you trust the dealer to give you the correct part looks like even they are not too sure.
Amazing how something which should be so simple just isn’t
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At least if the dealer screws up, you can exchange it... With ebay you're truly in the hands of the gods, and generally they CBA :-\
Ok the engine swap doesn't help your cause, but if you fitted the engine/loom/ecu all together then you ought be ordering parts using the donor reg. Any discrepancies can be put down to the wrong sensors being fitted previously :-\
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A fair worry - but Honest Ebay Trader Tsau Ping Pau Chong isn't going to have any more a clue which one you need than your local Vauxhall Dealer.
The only 'to be sure' option is to obtain two crank sensors - Siemens and Bosch, and fit both, see how it runs. If the problem's cured, happy days :). If the problem isn't sure, happy days again, because you now know it's not the CS. Now how you source them sensors, and for what price is up to you. You can buy them both Brand New from Vx, or borrow them from a fellow OOFer that happens to be up the road from you, should you find one. Alternatively arrange, maybe for price of postage and beer money to 'rent' one off an OOFer for a few days. But you need, really two to check. Because if you fit a brand new one... but it's the wrong one.. the engine will still run wrong. You'll be none the wiser as to the cause of the issue. As I say, how you source them is in your court. :)
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I will have another look at it,
Then I think I will go genuine (the Siemens one that’s failed was not of eBay but a online motor factors) this was meant to be genuine but now I am not to shure
And go armed with the Reg, Vin and Engine numbers.
I am going to be keeping this car for a long time so don’t want to be doing this again
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Lots of people keep a spare crank sensor in the boot. Try route it further away from the exhaust to how Vauxhall did it - it's the heat which contributes to the failure of this part. Over time you're bound to come across one either at a scrapyard, or a member will end up selling an as new one cheap, or something. So worth having a spare :y
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Yeh may get a spare just in case,
I have keep it away as much a possible from the exhausts, which are heat wrapped and if anything further away than they would have been on the Omega (it’s in a Triumph TR7 Convertible)
Thanks
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EPC sometimes makes a mess of which crank sensor is right on the later 3.0l. Invariably on later 3.0l, its the same (cheaper) one that's fitted to all later V6, approx. £50+VAT on tradeclub.
Many online factors try to fob off pattern junk as real, genuine GM but in different packaging. Autovaux being the No 1 culprit here. It ain't. For it to be genuine GM, it has to be in a hologrammed packet, and come from an authorised GM dealer.
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So far the best main dealer price is £52 + vat, but they do reconize that there is two types which is a good sign
My frends son also works for a main dealer so just see if he can get a better deal
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For your Chassis (W0L0VBM69Y1147343- Reg No W151NNP) EPC do list two different types
90492006 Has a flat top on the sensor, the teardrop fixing bracket is metal and the connector is square with pins that are level with the top of the connector
90492061 Has a slop top to the sensor, the teardrop fixing bracket is plastic and the connector is rounded off and the contact pins a resessed into the connector.
In theory if the connector is the same it should be the right one. The only time this will be wrong is if you have the 2.6/3.2 sensor which has the same connector but if you look at the sensor the head is much shorter and there are two small reinforcement ribs that come from the body of the sensor to the fixing bracket which is plastic and the fixing bolt goes between these ribs.The part number for this one is 90540743
Hope that helps
Andy
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Thanks for that
Yes it is helpfull
Phil
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Well fitted a genuine part from my local main dealer, cleared the fault codes
Oh also changed the thermostat, whoever designed that needs a good talking too
It’s now running really smoothly with no more problems, just hope this one lasts
Thanks for advice guys
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Well fitted a genuine part from my local main dealer, cleared the fault codes
Oh also changed the thermostat, whoever designed that needs a good talking too
It’s now running really smoothly with no more problems, just hope this one lasts
Thanks for advice guys
:y glad you're sorted. :y
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Well fitted a genuine part from my local main dealer, cleared the fault codes
Oh also changed the thermostat, whoever designed that needs a good talking too
It’s now running really smoothly with no more problems, just hope this one lasts
Thanks for advice guys
:y glad you're sorted. :y
+1 :y :y :y