Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Sir Tigger KC on 11 November 2014, 11:15:34
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My coolant is pissing out now and I'm topping up nearly every morning. ::) ;D
So apart from the HBV, Oil Cooler Plate, Nearside Headgasket, and Thermostat where else should I be looking? :-\ It's leaking down the back of the engine and I've pressure tested and run it with the scuttle off and cant see any thing obvious apart from the Oil Cooler Plate. :)
I think I saw something recently about the big stainless coolant pipe that comes out of the back of the engine? :-\
Anything else? ::)
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If you remove your plenum and inlets youll see the valley of the 'V'.
If this area is wet 'n' red youll know where its leaking from. then you can plug the hoses going to the plenum and re-pressure test and you should see it pishing out
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Heater matrix pipes?
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The large silevr pipe that runs from above alternator to back of block is the coolant transfer pipe.
It does have a rubber 0 ring sealing it to the block and it is possible that has failed but a pressure test would conclude for sure.
Has been mentioned before to drop all coolant and then add a dye to the new water which would then become much more obvious.Naturally dont leave untreated coolant in system for long though ,but a nice bright colour should show any leaks conclusively.
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Was it someone else? I'm sure we concluded HG with this car, some time ago, but I could well be mistaken!
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Lpg plumbing.... Core plug on cylinder head back of pot 6 behind coil pac.
...not really the best approach though. You need to pressurise the system with the plenum off, inlet manifold off and plastic wedge off. And keep going on every part of the loop of the cooling system until you find it.
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Was it someone else? I'm sure we concluded HG with this car, some time ago, but I could well be mistaken!
Nope, it's still me banging on about my coolant leak! :y I just don't want to go to all the effort of changing the head gaskets only to find it's leaking elsewhere as well. ::)
I have a very obvious leak from my Oil Cooler Plate and the Thermostat needs doing as well as that seems to have got 'lazy' recently, so that'll all be done. :y
You need to pressurise the system with the plenum off, inlet manifold off and plastic wedge off. And keep going on every part of the loop of the cooling system until you find it.
Done all that! :y
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Except you haven't fou.... Oh never mind. ::)
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The large silevr pipe that runs from above alternator to back of block is the coolant transfer pipe.
It does have a rubber 0 ring sealing it to the block and it is possible that has failed but a pressure test would conclude for sure.
Has been mentioned before to drop all coolant and then add a dye to the new water which would then become much more obvious.Naturally dont leave untreated coolant in system for long though ,but a nice bright colour should show any leaks conclusively.
How do you get to that to replace , looks impossible ???
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The large silevr pipe that runs from above alternator to back of block is the coolant transfer pipe.
It does have a rubber 0 ring sealing it to the block and it is possible that has failed but a pressure test would conclude for sure.
Has been mentioned before to drop all coolant and then add a dye to the new water which would then become much more obvious.Naturally dont leave untreated coolant in system for long though ,but a nice bright colour should show any leaks conclusively.
How do you get to that to replace , looks impossible ???
Actually not too bad of a job, I had to change the whole pipe to my engine.. ::) Much easien with coolant bridge removed so buy washers for it too :y
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Need to strip plenum /etc down to expose just the valley and oil cooler.
Scuttle should be removed also the coolant bridge.You will then need to either kneel on a thick cushion/faom on the frontslam panel and basically lay across the engine with your face almost on the windscreen.With the aid of a strong torch and I found a mirror on a stick you can just about see the 2 fixing bolts that secure the transfer pipe to the block.
A selection of deep E sockets ..think its an E10..or maybe a deep ring spanner and you should with difficulty get them undone and out.The fun starts when you replace them as you will need to apply aliberal smear of grease/vaseline to the new 0 ring to stop it fallen off then get both bolts back into the holes and tighten up.How you are expected to torque them up though is an utter mystery.
It isn,t the worst job in the world,but pretty close and you will certainly have a sore/stiff back for a few days afterwards.
Best of luck...I did mine whilst replacing exhaust manifold gasket and also the oil cooler all at the same time.
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Need to strip plenum /etc down to expose just the valley and oil cooler.
Scuttle should be removed also the coolant bridge.You will then need to either kneel on a thick cushion/faom on the frontslam panel and basically lay across the engine with your face almost on the windscreen.With the aid of a strong torch and I found a mirror on a stick you can just about see the 2 fixing bolts that secure the transfer pipe to the block.
A selection of deep E sockets ..think its an E10..or maybe a deep ring spanner and you should with difficulty get them undone and out.The fun starts when you replace them as you will need to apply aliberal smear of grease/vaseline to the new 0 ring to stop it fallen off then get both bolts back into the holes and tighten up.How you are expected to torque them up though is an utter mystery.
It isn,t the worst job in the world,but pretty close and you will certainly have a sore/stiff back for a few days afterwards.
Best of luck...I did mine whilst replacing exhaust manifold gasket and also the oil cooler all at the same time.
:y
Its about the only seal ive never replaced :( Had advisory of weeping coolant down the back on last mot although ive never had to top up .. Have you the part number for the seal ;)
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Just to say i have done most of my repairs that need reaching behind the engine by removing bagpipes and standing on sway bar with toes on oil pan ;D Theres A LOT space between radiator and engine. I also have SAI and aircon removed so every bit of extra space is used :D My transfer pipe had hex bolts so with long hex key and thick gloves to protect your hands (since you're needing a lot of force to undo them when using said key with long end on bolt and short end to turn the key). :)
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The lower steel pipe in this picture , is this the pipe leading to the housing where the o ring lives ??? I think this seal is overlooked and could be the cause of many slight water loss :)
(http://images.omegaowners.com/images/guides/v6_engine_pics/IMG_0017-1.jpg)
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The lower steel pipe in this picture , is this the pipe leading to the housing where the o ring lives ??? I think this seal is overlooked and could be the cause of many slight water loss :)
(http://images.omegaowners.com/images/guides/v6_engine_pics/IMG_0017-1.jpg)
Couldn't agree more, I know many cases where the leaking has stoped by changing said seal ring (after replacing everything from HBV to reversing light bulbs obviously.. ::) )
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Except you haven't fou.... Oh never mind. ::)
No. ::) Hence my query. ;)
That transfer pipe going into the block is the place where I didn't think to feel around and it looks like a complete PITA too! :-\
Thanks for the info amba! :y
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Here a bit better picture :-\ Mite be slightly different engine but either way you will need Captain stretch long arms to get to it ;D
(http://data.motor-talk.de/data/galleries/25983/5717347/v6-2-5-l-hinten-20134.jpg)
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It still looks like a PITA! ::) ;D
Mind you, it's not an issue that I've seen crop up on here regularly so I'll file that in the 'Hope not' folder along with the leaky head gasket! ;) ;D
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It still looks like a PITA! ::) ;D
Mind you, it's not an issue that I've seen crop up on here regularly so I'll file that in the 'Hope not' folder along with the leaky head gasket! ;) ;D
Its overlooked imo , especially seeing how its hidden at the back :( Mite be able to put your hand down there an see if its leaking :-\
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That looks an utter pain in the arse!!!! I think I'd rather just keep topping up with coolant every month :-X ;D
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It still looks like a PITA! ::) ;D
Mind you, it's not an issue that I've seen crop up on here regularly so I'll file that in the 'Hope not' folder along with the leaky head gasket! ;) ;D
Its overlooked imo , especially seeing how its hidden at the back :( Mite be able to put your hand down there an see if its leaking :-\
You can reach under the car all the way to coolant bridge, at least with my monkey arms ;D ;D When I had that seal blown coolant ran on both sides of gearbox and there was a small puddle where clutch's hose enters bell housing :(
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I think we should get Webby to give us a full documented video of how to do this job :P
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As said did mine when doing o/s exhaust manifold gasket so a lot was already stripped down.The actual rubber 0 ring is less the a £ from dealers but cant find the part number at present but being so well hiden could be the source of many a leak at back of the heads.
You should be able to see it with a very strong torch and a mirror on a stick but without pulling alot apart you wont be able to get at it.Mine was secured with E headed bolts sure they were E10,s although coolant bridge does need removing to get at the top bolt and all done by feel ;)
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9128362.SEAL, RING, WATER INLET TO CYLINDER HEAD. SEAL, RING, WATER INLET NECK TO CYLINDER HEAD
13123679.SEAL, RING, WATER INLET NECK TO CYLINDER HEAD
EPC shows 2 listings for an identical part so think chat with parts counter would be the best bet as not too sure which it is or maybe they are the same .For the price probably safe buying 1 of each if you are going down that route
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Back to your original question, don't rule out the radiator, top or bottom :y
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I think we should get Webby to give us a full documented video of how to do this job :P
You want a video of a fat lad cross threading every bolt? :-\ ;D
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I had off my coolant pipe last year to change the o/s exhaust manifold. Tricky job, especially getting the o ring to stay in its groove when re-attaching the pipe. An 8mm long socket fits the torx screws holding the pipe to the head.
Has this leak occured after years of service? If your car has developed a major leak I'd be amazed that it would be the O ring failing. O ring joints are very reliable, unless thescrews are loose, or the O ring is missing. Leaks that develop and get serious are usually leaks in hoses, gaskets going, cracks in radiators, water pump seals, etc.
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I think we should get Webby to give us a full documented video of how to do this job :P
You want a video of a fat lad cross threading every bolt? :-\ ;D
;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D