Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: powerslinky on 15 February 2015, 17:40:52
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Hi all ,
want to change my "housing" type paper element oil filter for the spin on type.
But I cannot seem to find where to get the TL 70 thread locking stuff.
Web search has found nothing . . . can anyone advise where to get it from or a similar product that will do the job ?
TIA Al :y
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http://www.selfadhesive.co.uk/adhesives/anaerobic-adhesives/scotch-weld-trade-threadlocker-tl70-50ml.html
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If you don't mind me asking how much are the necessary bits to do this conversion?
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If you don't mind me asking how much are the necessary bits to do this conversion?
Think I paid around £9 for the stub at agents and £1.50 for genuine filter off of the bay. :-\ Oh and didn't bother with the lock thread stuff and not had a problem, just turn filter to around 3/4 turn after it touches the block
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http://www.selfadhesive.co.uk/adhesives/anaerobic-adhesives/scotch-weld-trade-threadlocker-tl70-50ml.html
Now why could I not find that Rob ::) ::) ::) Thanks
Is this locking stuff really needed then ? anyone else fitted this conversion without the thread lok ?
As ~i will probably never use it again . . .seems a tad expensive for just one application ::) ::)
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If you don't mind me asking how much are the necessary bits to do this conversion?
Think I paid around £9 for the stub at agents and £1.50 for genuine filter off of the bay. :-\ Oh and didn't bother with the lock thread stuff and not had a problem, just turn filter to around 3/4 turn after it touches the block
Kev . . .have you done a oil & filter change since you converted ? if so . . . I presume the filter came off ok & left the threaded stub in place ok :-\ :-\ :-\
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If you don't mind me asking how much are the necessary bits to do this conversion?
Yes 1 change and it stayed in place so far. :y
Think I paid around £9 for the stub at agents and £1.50 for genuine filter off of the bay. :-\ Oh and didn't bother with the lock thread stuff and not had a problem, just turn filter to around 3/4 turn after it touches the block
Kev . . .have you done a oil & filter change since you converted ? if so . . . I presume the filter came off ok & left the threaded stub in place ok :-\ :-\ :-\
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Just about any threadlock will do, although I would be using one of the milder versions. You should be able to find a small bottle for a few quid, and if you keep it in a sealed container it will last for years.
Don't forget to degrease both threads though, otherwise it won't work.
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I still think you're fixing a fault that doesn't exist :-\
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I still think you're fixing a fault that doesn't exist :-\
not sure what you mean by that Andy ? :-\ :-\
could you enlighten ? :y
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I still think you're fixing a fault that doesn't exist :-\
not sure what you mean by that Andy ? :-\ :-\
could you enlighten ? :y
It was a cryptic way of saying ..... the paper filter in the ally housing works - why change it for a spin on filter? If it ain't broke .... don't fix it. :y
Various people saying they're modifying for the better by fitting the spin on filter, I never had any problems in 10 yrs of of Omega ownership in removing the ally housing and the oil was changed at least every year or better ;)
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I still think you're fixing a fault that doesn't exist :-\
not sure what you mean by that Andy ? :-\ :-\
could you enlighten ? :y
It was a cryptic way of saying ..... the paper filter in the ally housing works - why change it for a spin on filter? If it ain't broke .... don't fix it. :y
Various people saying they're modifying for the better by fitting the spin on filter, I never had any problems in 10 yrs of of Omega ownership in removing the ally housing and the oil was changed at least every year or better ;)
Ah . . . see now ;) I found filter change much easier on the one 2.5 I've had with a spin on .
The present 3.2 alloy housing & paper element is all ok . . . no problem getting off last time & torqued up correctly when refitting . . . so should be ok for all future oil changes. May just leave it then :y
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Ok, I'm biased, I've never used the later paper jobbie, but just ignoring that a VOF93 costs £1 on tradeclub, I suppose the idea that the older type is superior probably comes from those times/people that have literally had to smash the old one off. Given that you do that, then have to blag a lift from a mate to go to the Stealer for a replacement housing (no idea what they are, but I imagine not pence) then fit the new housing, does seem a backward stem when compared with the 'destroy the old filter when removing, simply plop the new on on hand-tight, have a cuppa' method.
I suppose if you do your own servicing and the housing comes off fine the first time you change the oil, and torque it up properly, there's no reason to suppose that it won't come undone again for the next ten years. Perhaps the idea (or myth?) that the earlier VOF 93 is the superior is from previous owners/garages tightening it too far, thus making removal without destruction impossible.
Does anyone have experience of personally tightening their later-type up one year, then come next oilchange it's stuffed?
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I changed mine because when I got my 3.2 some gorilla had done it up and It took a long bar to get the cover off then when it eventually did come apart the web inside was all broken so I put the old canister type on as the housing would have cost an arm and a leg from a dealer to replace. :y
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For me it's a matter of personal preference really.I think in going from a spin on type to the element type was a retrograde step on GMs part.Then factor in that quite a few people have had bother removing the element housing-for whatever reason-and that the spin on is cheaper than the element one so after a few oil changes you're in profit from the tenner or so it costs to convert,I think I'll be going this route come next oil/filter/breather clean time.
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When I bought my 3.2 I was pleasantly surprised that the cap came off the oil housing with ease on its first oil change in my ownership,despite buying the stub just incase all went "pete-tong".
After 5 oil changes the last being 2 weeks ago can report that the cap comes off as expected .The metal cal is not damaged in anyway and I find very little difference between oil changes on the metal cannister against the paper type.
From my standpoint I will leave things as they are as agree that if it isnt broken why fix a problem that doesnt exist . ;) :)
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For me it's a matter of personal preference really.I think in going from a spin on type to the element type was a retrograde step on GMs part.Then factor in that quite a few people have had bother removing the element housing-for whatever reason-and that the spin on is cheaper than the element one so after a few oil changes you're in profit from the tenner or so it costs to convert,I think I'll be going this route come next oil/filter/breather clean time.
This sums it up for me, personally. Absolute personal preference, but of course if your metal cap is undamaged, then absolutely don't fix what ain't broke. :)
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Will be coverting mine when I start on the oily bits, but suspension comes first...
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Will be coverting mine when I start on the oily bits, but suspension comes first...
Dost thou covet thine oil filter? Myyyy precious! :)
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You're confuddling my fat fingers typing on my phone for someone else me thinks...
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:y