Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Car Chat => Topic started by: Webby the Bear on 17 February 2015, 18:26:18
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Evening guys, hope you're all well.
So, mates Rover 25 is losing coolant at a fast rate. 70k miles on the clock. Haven't seen it yet but being a Rover going to test for head gasket failure.
If it turns out to be this....
1.) is the exh. Manifold the front or back? Easy to get to?
2.) the timing belt. . . The last one I did ended up with pistons meeting valves :'( :-[ cos of my error so I'm keen to not have this happen again. So shuld I get it to TDC (or before Tdc?) mark the belt, undo tensioner, put back, tighten tensioner up. . . Or is there a special way of doing it I.r. With special tool or summat?
3.) is head skimming likely to be needed?
4.) any other advice?
My mate really likes the car so he's happy to pay me to do it but I of course don't want to mess it up so just getting a plan of attack formed should it come to that. Also if anyone has a Haynes manual they'd like to sell me pm me :y
Cheers boys.
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...oh and....
Presumably there's an engine mount to deal with over the timing belt area. Can I support that side with a floor jack and wood on the sump?
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Martin had one of those , he did a fair bit of work on one so probabaly knows them inside out like TB :)
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Yeah did think about that. Plus the crocked car is in Kettering also so perhaps he'd cast his eyes on it if I was to get stuck.
Not been diagnosed yet so just throwing ideas around at this point . . . But know ing what those rovers are like for eating their head gaskets ::)
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Yeah did think about that. Plus the crocked car is in Kettering also so perhaps he'd cast his eyes on it if I was to get stuck.
Not been diagnosed yet so just throwing ideas around at this point . . . But know ing what those rovers are like for eating their head gaskets ::)
Yeah my mates 75 ate its head gasket twice :(
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Pieces of shit mate. But he likes it ::)
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Got cam locking kit here mate,if you want a hand let me know,done these before,check inlet gasket as that can also give hg symptons ,also change water pump and cambelt kit .
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I recall TB and I doing one of these in a day :y
(2007, eight years ago now!!!)
Fond memories of that day :)
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Thanks Martin, really appreciate it :y just a quick look. . . I'd forgot they were dual cam. Memories coming back that there are two arrow marks on each cam that meet in the middle when at Tdc iirc.
How would I go about checking if it's the inlet manifold gasket?
Sounds like a good day James :y
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Have to remove inlet manifold and you might aswell change gasket if going to do that,but when doing hear you will need to order correct gasket tho,so allow a couple of days to do the job.
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Ok mate thanks. All looks quite straight forward.
Important notes I've read are not to turn the engine over with the head of cos of the liner. I also read that if the liners protruding out above spec the engine is virtually junk. Is this true?
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Yep im sure ive read that aswell somewhere,thats why i said its best to do over several days so you can order correct gasket,or order both types and return the 1 not used,im off work from next wednesday for nearly 2 weeks if your mate can hold on till then :y
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Awesome mate thanks. There's no rush so I'll update when I know what's happening :y
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Timing on the k series is set at 90 degrees before top dead Webby so pistons halfway in bored.
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Thanks henry...
So when those two cam sprocket marks line up in the middle theyre actually at 90 degrees before tdc?
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Being a 25, it'll have the plastic inlet manifold, so check the green rubber gasket, which is about £5, and 30 mins to change.
Obviously, if the idiot has driven with limited coolant at any point, its likely to be toast.
HG is straightforward enough, hardest part is locking the crank to undo pulley.
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Thanks henry...
So when those two cam sprocket marks line up in the middle theyre actually at 90 degrees before tdc?
Yep,when all cam marks are lined up horizontally its timed up at 90°BTDC :y
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Hi Webby, as this forum knows I have just done this job, see my thread in this section.
I failed to remove the chankshaft pulley nut, so did not bother. It can be done that way, though to change the cam belt it the pulley nut has to come off. I have since learned on the Rover 25 forum that one can buy a flywheel locking tool for £25 that facilitates removing the nut.
Good luck! Any problems let me know. I have many photographs.
You told me it was an easy job! That is what inspired me to have a go.
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Thanks for the info boys.
Very true I did terry. . . It has been a while though :y
I'm not changing the belt so I believe crank pulley can stay buttoned up though?
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Thanks for the info boys.
Very true I did terry. . . It has been a while though :y
I'm not changing the belt so I believe crank pulley can stay buttoned up though?
Yep, my crank pulley stayed on. Just set the engine to 90 degrees BTDC - camshaft pointers aligned - and best mark the position of the crank pulley with snopake. Then slacken or remove the cambelt tensioner, take the cambelt off the top pulleys, remove pulleys, remove head. Change head gasket, replace head, replace pulleys, turn pulleys to align pulley marker lines and lock with tool, replace cambelt tensioner, replace cambelt, retension belt, job done.
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Exactly what I thought, terry. Cheers mate :y