Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Car Chat => Topic started by: tigers_gonads on 17 February 2015, 20:44:51
-
Mini Me has bought himself a 54 plate 5 door Corsa 1.3 cdti hatchback :y
I am going down to see it on Saturday morning and hopefully bring it home.
1st question Where is the diagnostic port on these cars so I can check the codes / live data ?
Anything I should look for in particular while inspecting it ?
Tia :)
-
Only one thing, wet in the driver footwell. Is carpet damp under mat compared to passenger side? It is a common bulkhead seal problem and fixable.
Interim oil and filter change maybe. Has it got service history? What is the handbrake like to operate?
Otherwise sit back and enjoy trouble free econonomical motoring :y
-
You sound just like stmo lol ;D
-
Just in front of the gear stick.
The one in today had a rattle from the chain from cold.
-
That will be a 1.0 or 1.2 and a sign of poor servicing.
1.3 CDTi is a belt setup.
-
That will be a 1.0 or 1.2 and a sign of poor servicing.
1.3 CDTi is a belt setup.
The car has "some" service history ::)
Any idea what the cambelt replacement intervals are ?
I can imagine its a total idiot of a job but if life, shit happens ;D
-
Not to hard to do to be honest, the official figures at 100K miles or 10 years, I would probably advise closer to80k and 8 years
-
Not to hard to do to be honest, the official figures at 100K miles or 10 years, I would probably advise closer to80k and 8 years
Well its done 96K mostly travelling between Manchester and south Lincolnshire at the hands of a woman so providing the oil has been kept clean, the engine should be okay.
Do I need any special kit to lock off the engine while changing these belts / tensioners ?
Can the diesel pump take a filter full of diesel magic as per the old 2.5 omega engine ?
The only diesels i've worked have old style pumps which can take a blend of cooking oil so i'm not familiar with these high pressure setups on newer engines :-\
-
Locking tool is highly recommended:
Actually now I come to think about it, it could be a chain setup.....memory must be failing me!
-
Locking tool is highly recommended:
Actually now I come to think about it, it could be a chain setup.....memory must be failing me!
I'll find out on Saturday ;D
Already told the lad that he can't drive it until he learns how to maintain it :y
Not very often you see a 19 year olds pet lip tremble ;D
Should have had a camera ready ;D
-
Yes they are chain drive
Andy
-
hey ups Tigers, once you have got some expertise we can start having
OOF COOF camchain parties.
I have space and my ramp but it is a bit of a distance to travel and parts are hard to get at short notice- being third world. I even have a gazebo to keep the beating sun off our balding heads. ;D
-
hey ups Tigers, once you have got some expertise we can start having OOF COOF camchain parties.
I have space and my ramp but it is a bit of a distance to travel and parts are hard to get at short notice- being third world. I even have a gazebo to keep the beating sun off our balding heads. ;D
Sounds good to me ;D
Don't forget the fridge full of cold beer and the BBQ though :y ;D ;D ;D
Priorities and all that ;D
-
Yes they are chain drive
Andy
Cheers Andy :)
-
I'll find out on Saturday ;D
Already told the lad that he can't drive it until he learns how to maintain it :y
Not very often you see a 19 year olds pet lip tremble ;D
Should have had a camera ready ;D
I expect he already had his first glamorous assistant lined up to help test the springs! ;D
-
Locking tool is highly recommended:
Actually now I come to think about it, it could be a chain setup.....memory must be failing me!
Being on here too much. I think its catching.
Just hope i dont catch some of the other ailments they chat about on here!
-
Okay, Corsa bought yesterday so now i've a few more questions about them :)
I would describe the car as "honest" with no attempt to hide anything so i'm pretty happy providing nothing goes bang while it gets some very very well deserved TLC ;)
Oil question ............ The oil is frigging disgusting :( She can't remember the last time it was changed and to say it was black is the understatement of the year :( I dumped the oil immediately when I got back and treat it to a sump full of fresh 10/40 which turned jet black within 10 miles >:( The front of the sump is starting to corrode and I had to use a strong arm to get the sump plug off so i'm looking at removing the sump and scraping out any crap then wire brushing it before blathering it in hammerite paint :y
Is it recommended to use engine flush on the 1.3 cdti engines to speed along the cleaning ?
TIA :)
Temp question ............. The water is clean with evidence of a radiator fitted very recently but in the 110 miles i've done in it, the temp has never risen above 80 deg :-\ The air through the vents is nice and hot so the heater matrix seems okay. What is the normal operating temperature for these engines ?
Where is the stat on these and how much for a replacement ?
-
If the oil is as bad as you report, then a flushing oil is a very bad idea!
Treat it to 3 or 4 quick oil changes, ensuring that you do the filter each time. Use the cheapest appropriate oil, as it will only be in there about 200 miles.
-
If the oil is as bad as you report, then a flushing oil is a very bad idea!
Treat it to 3 or 4 quick oil changes, ensuring that you do the filter each time. Use the cheapest appropriate oil, as it will only be in there about 200 miles.
I'm with Nick on this,flush can cause other issues.
-
Slight hi jack as there seem to be ones in the know..
Poor starting hot or cold, fuel rail pressure seems to take a few turns before the pressure builds to a point of starting.
Tinternet seems to imply that fitting a new higher output starter motor is the/a cure rather then mess with hp pumps and regulators. (no fault codes)
?
-
Coolant temp suggests a lazy stat :-\ easily tested by holding the hose from stat to rad and starting from cold :y
-
Engine oil does go black more or less as soon as you start it up after a change on diesels (well on mine anyway). I do mine on the Skoda every 4000 miles and as soon as I've changed it & took it for a little run, then brought it back to check the level its as black as the ace of spades.
-
So the summary is .................... the oil will get filthy very quick so give it a few quick oil changes and give it a good flush and new antifreeze after a stat change :y :y
Thanks for that lot lads :y :y
Engine oil question ............... its running on 10/40 GM stuff at the moment but the hand book says you can also use 5/40 or 5/30 :-\
What's the best stuff bering in mind that its done 96K and I don't think its had many changes.
The engine pulls VERY WELL from 55 upto 85 in 5th (private road mr plod ;D) and is pretty quite once its warmed though but it does rattle its tits off when cool with what may be from the bottom end :-\
Gearbox question ............. Its the 5 speed box and probably has 11 years old oil in it.
Is it worth dumping the gear oil and refilling ?
If so, what with ?
TIA
-
It's a diesel, so the oil will turn black very quickly even when everything is OK.
You don't use flushing oil when it hasn't had proper changes as all you (might) do is loosen the rubbish that changes avoid. Having extra dirt and sludgy oil circulating is not good for the engine or turbo. You don't use it when it has had proper changes because it is unnecessary. Flushing it with just oil is far gentler than using detergents.
If the gearbox has drain and fill plugs then an oil change certainly won't hurt.
-
It's a diesel, so the oil will turn black very quickly even when everything is OK.
You don't use flushing oil when it hasn't had proper changes as all you (might) do is loosen the rubbish that changes avoid. Having extra dirt and sludgy oil circulating is not good for the engine or turbo. You don't use it when it has had proper changes because it is unnecessary. Flushing it with just oil is far gentler than using detergents.
If the gearbox has drain and fill plugs then an oil change certainly won't hurt.
I'll have a look when I get chance Nick, thanks :)
Any idea what oil goes in these gearboxes ?
-
80 degrees is bob on for a CDTi.
A few short period oil changes is advisable.
They are supposed to run on fully synth but semi plus a more regular change approach will be ok.
It will be noisy when cold anyway, nothing to much to worry about here, a splash of 2 stroke oil in the diesel helps but, the CDTi only fires the injectors a few times every cycle rather than the big numbers on other power plants (this is how they make them quieter). The result is more noise but, much much longer lasting and more reliable injectors.
As for cranking, they can take a turn or two, no issue here, measure the glow plug resistance (they are fed in pairs so a single failure wont show up as a fault). Not many issues really on these to be honest.
For gearbox oil, its always worthwhile changing at elevated mileage, find a good fully synth oil (I don't rate the Gm gearbox oil)
-
I'll have a look when I get chance Nick, thanks :)
Any idea what oil goes in these gearboxes ?
F17 gearbox if its a five speed so probably 75-90 or 80-90
-
I'll have a look when I get chance Nick, thanks :)
Any idea what oil goes in these gearboxes ?
F17 gearbox if its a five speed so probably 75-90 or 80-90
Cheers for that info Mark
I'll get some oil later when I get the antifreeze :)