Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Car Chat => Topic started by: Raymienets on 14 March 2015, 08:59:03
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Now am not a mechanic and really have no idea how to do this but having 2 gasket failures in the past I cannot afford to pay garage prices. I have managed to loosen the manifold only breaking 2 studs. Have removed cam cover, and loosened cams. today to remove timing belt, should it be at TDC before removal or just locked with locking tool. any difficulties on the other side I.e. Removal of electric trunking etc.
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Don't loosen the cam shells until the belt is off!!!
Before belt removal you need to set the crank so the the pistons are all half way up the bores to avoid any valve interference
Only one of the cam shafts needs to come out from memory, I think the head bolts on one side are accessible with the cam in situ
You say you ***only*** broke two studs, ensure the manifold mating surface is adequately cleaned as well as the manifold, only use a multi layer gasket, and make sued ALL studs are torqued and holding correctly. You will need to drill out the broken studs if they won't wind out and re thread the holes
If you don't you're in for a nasty blow, if not straight after rebuild, in the near future... :y
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Both cams needc to come out to get to head bolts. I set timing marks on cams,locked them,marked bottom pulley with white paint so its easy to check thats in correct position,removed belt and then slowly loosened of the cams to remove them. :y
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thanks. What about other side I.e electrical cable trunking side.
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Just unplug everything and loom should be able to be moved out the way.
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Both cams needc to come out to get to head bolts. I set timing marks on cams,locked them,marked bottom pulley with white paint so its easy to check thats in correct position,removed belt and then slowly loosened of the cams to remove them. :y
sorry, so am I setting it at TDC then marking them.
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Don't loosen the cam shells until the belt is off!!!
Before belt removal you need to set the crank so the the pistons are all half way up the bores to avoid any valve interference
Only one of the cam shafts needs to come out from memory, I think the head bolts on one side are accessible with the cam in situ
You say you ***only*** broke two studs, ensure the manifold mating surface is adequately cleaned as well as the manifold, only use a multi layer gasket, and make sued ALL studs are torqued and holding correctly. You will need to drill out the broken studs if they won't wind out and re thread the holes
If you don't you're in for a nasty blow, if not straight after rebuild, in the near future... :y
How do I know or set the crank so the Pistons are half way up?
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Both cams needc to come out to get to head bolts. I set timing marks on cams,locked them,marked bottom pulley with white paint so its easy to check thats in correct position,removed belt and then slowly loosened of the cams to remove them. :y
sorry, so am I setting it at TDC then marking them.
No because at tdc piston no1 would be at the top and you would have valve clearance issues upon re fitting
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Both cams needc to come out to get to head bolts. I set timing marks on cams,locked them,marked bottom pulley with white paint so its easy to check thats in correct position,removed belt and then slowly loosened of the cams to remove them. :y
Nope. See pic. Inlet cam can easily stay in situ with a decent length T55 socket:
(http://i422.photobucket.com/albums/pp303/93728/xDSCF8472.jpg)
There is also no need to use paint or tippex if you follow the correct procedure eg start with the pistons half way down.
(I think on the 4 pot that's at 270deg BTDC so crank at 9pm but I'd need to check that, as I'm working from memory)
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Thinking about it, it might also be 90deg btdc so 3pm position. Definitely check this as genuinely can't recall. Other advice all stands :y
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Cheers for that but known me I would make things a lot worse, so it looks like garage wins again.
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Cheers for that but known me I would make things a lot worse, so it looks like garage wins again.
Have faith in yourself mate you can do it if you've come this far, we will help with any questions :y
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I'd offer to come and help. But at 800 miles worth of diesel plus an inevitable overnight stop, it's probably cheaper to pay the garage if you don't want to do it yourself :(