Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: zamp on 24 March 2015, 21:54:56
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Hello all,
Bought my first omega today,brokedown after 5 miles,cant really complain though as it was dirt cheap
Car was running fine,I stopped for a few minutes then went to restart it but it just span over and wouldn't kick in again,sounded like it was almost going to fire a couple of times but just wouldn't
Plenty of petrol in
Was thinking some kind of hotstart issue?I had to dump the car and head home so can't confirm if it does start cold until I travel the 100 miles back to it
Is there any common failures on these that anyone can Think of?cheers
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Crank sensor. Dead
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Crank sensor... buy a genuine one from a genuine VX dealer that you genuinely have to go to :y
Can also check for codes using the paperclip method :y
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See the guides under code reading. 19 is, you might of guessed, crank sensor. Typical symptoms by your description anyway.
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http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90581.0
:y
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You haven't said what age your 3L is, but I have a brand new un-used genuine GM crank sensor still in the GM packaging bought as a spare for my 1996 3L, yours for £30 posted. I will check on the part number and advise.
Alan
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Thanks chaps,all very helpful
It's a 99 T plate
And yes I would be interested if it's the right one
Can they be changed without going under the car?
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Not exactly, but if you know where you're looking you can do it by laying on the ground beside the car and reaching in around the back of the nearside front wheel..
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Alank46, if your Crank Sensor is the Bosch one with the chamfer on the end (part number eludes me temporarily) and the OP requires the other type could I 'basgsy' this, please? Of course if the OP requires the Bosch type then that's fine - I'm only casually looking for a cs at the right price as a spare one only, I have no imminent issue/need. :y
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My sensor only has a GM marking, its 90492006, and it does not have a chamfered end. I'm not sure if it is suitable for a 99 T plate, perhaps somebody can advise. Its the oblong plug type.
I also have a brand new non-genuine crank sensor for £15 posted. I used to carry it as a spare in the car in case of breakdown on the move so to speak.
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My sensor only has a GM marking, its 90492006, and it does not have a chamfered end. I'm not sure if it is suitable for a 99 T plate, perhaps somebody can advise. Its the oblong plug type.
I also have a brand new non-genuine crank sensor for £15 posted. I used to carry it as a spare in the car in case of breakdown on the move so to speak.
Genuine one should be ok for '99 3 lit :y
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My sensor only has a GM marking, its 90492006, and it does not have a chamfered end. I'm not sure if it is suitable for a 99 T plate, perhaps somebody can advise. Its the oblong plug type.
I also have a brand new non-genuine crank sensor for £15 posted. I used to carry it as a spare in the car in case of breakdown on the move so to speak.
No worries, then. However, I seem to recall there's every possibility/probability that this one may be suitable for the OP. Think it was MarksDTM who made a post some time ago - possibly in Howto or similar - detailing the differences between them. I can't seem to find it, but it is out there. :y
I know that even if you go into the dealer and give them your reg etc there's still 50/50 you get the right one, it's a case of seeing what's fitted, and getting the same one again.
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I believe the MAF plug is the tell tale, rounded corners or square corners dictates the sensor type
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Yes - that's the feller! I second that. :y
OP - Follow the airbox down the ducting towards the engine and you'll find a plug and wire, that's the MAF. Apologies if you already know that, I mention just in case you didn't :)
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I was once told that a clue to a failed crankshaft sensor is when you turn the engine over there is no movement whatsoever on the tachometer (or rev counter if you prefer :D). Certainly when mine went that was the case and on the few occasions it has been hesitant to start there was a least a little jump of the needle as it turned over.
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Turns out mine isn't a 006 type
Didn't see the post above regarding the shape of the map connector,mines rounded
I do have a new in packet GM made item forsale now if the chap above wants it
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Im actually in 2 minds whether to use this as a spares car and find another one that doesn't need much doing to it,or just sell it as is for what I paid for it
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Just fit the correct sensor.
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nah,seems like this car is starting to fall apart
Air suspension is buggered,
It's leaking coolant
Rear crank seal and maybe sump gasket are leaking
cam cover gaskets are pouring oil down back of engine
onto exhaust
Autobox seems to have become very jerky
And the one that really topped it off was the B pillar airbag going off when I shut the door the other day
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Ahhhh yep sell it :y :y :y
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Apart from the airbag, that's all standard Omega stuff... ::)
Unless you spend a few grand when buying, I would expect nothing less tbh :y
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just thought i would update,i decided to give it another bash so fixed a few things and got hold of the correct oem sensor but the blooming thing still cuts out after 12-15 miles of general driving,only codes coming up are lambda and a air flow meter one,wont start again for a good few hours then >:(
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Where did you get the sensor from? Lots of people will sell them as 'oem' and in the small print you find out it's 'oem replacement' or 'oem standard' which is only the same as when every supermarket claims to use 'only the finest ingredients' in their food.
The way it 'sortof' works with a new Crank Sensor suggests that the fault lay with the CS, but that there's something awry with the sensor still. Is it still leaking oil from the cam covers? If so I'd say that wants sorting asap or you'll be going downt he route of a new DIS pack too. Get them done and you'll save yourself some aggro in the very near future.
Air suspension is buggered
Easy and pretty cheap. Pair of Brand New Bilstein shocks for under £80 on heebay at the moment, excellent quality I use them myself. And cheap n cheerfuls available for even less. Some perfectly fine used ones could no doubt be sourced from a member on here.
It's leaking coolant
Easy fix, presuming it's from a pipe. Old rubber pipes to be expected on a car of that age. Again, good, used ones from Wanted section easily obtainable
Rear crank seal and maybe sump gasket are leaking
So are mine. Summer job, so long as it's not losing a litre of oil a month put that on the back burner, get it sorted when you can.
cam cover gaskets are pouring oil down back of engine
Sort this soon as poss. Genuine GM seals, will set you back something like £70, but will last, well, how old's this car? 15 yrs old minimum? You'll be on the originals, so these'll last another 15+ years. Easy job, really. Undo the plenum, take off the covers, clean them up, plop new ones on, reassemble. Do it in a couple of hours on a nice day, have an ale.
Autobox seems to have become very jerky
Easy. Check oil level. That's the most likely cause. Takes as long as it does to change a tyre and about as easy. Car up in the air (but as level as you can) undo plug, check oil level, if need more stick some in :)
If it makes you feel any better my car started out 10 months ago as a SORN wreck, lathered in dust and cobwebs, since then I've done the following...
Exhaust
Exhaust heat shields
Cat converters welded new flanges on repairing old rusted ones
Wheels and tyres
DIS pack
HT Leads
Timing belt
Entire front suspension overhauled or replaced with brand new incorporating...
New wisbones refurbed with brand new GM bush, balljoint and Poly bushes
Droplinks
Track rods
Dampers all round
MV6 Springs
Inner arches cleaned, de-rusted, painted, stone chip protected
Brake calipers refurbished, repainted, new seals fittted
Discs and pads
Front hub
Steering knuckles and all other parts cleaned, ground to bare metal and painted satin black as per factory
All nuts and bolts removed, cleaned repainted silver
Brake hoses
Brake fluid change
PAS fluid 50% change
New plenum
All vac pipes replaced
All vac boxes tested
Drive belt
New ICV
Leaking fuel line repair
Bonnet and boot lifters
Plus some other stuff.
All that came in at just under £800 (Take off the dampers, springs and the cambelt and that would bring that total down to around £500) So it's doable, can be done cheaply, without scrimping on quality, and works out cheaper every week than everyone else at work for what they're paying on their HP on their brand new cars. I've got just mainly cosmetic stuff left, no FM, some rust to be sorted, plenty of cleaning, tatty engine bay, back brakes to refurb soon as I can, but all in all she works, goes, stops. And does that with cruise control, climate control, heated seats and a smoother ride than any other car you can buy new today.
There's a few - a very few - 'Omega killers' - sort these very simple and often cheap issues out as preventative maintenance and you'll have a very good car for as many years as you want. :y