Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Jan Suhr on 12 May 2015, 20:48:29
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I'm about to replace my wheelbearing in the rear and have some questions.
In the GM Service manual for this work they have some special tools to get everything apart. They use a press tool that is bolted to the brake shield bolt holes. Does anyone know what thread size those bolts have so I can get the proper bolts for this toll that I'm going to fabricate myself. They are marked #1 & 2 in the image
There is also a similar tool that is bolted to the axle shaft coupling to pull that part of the wheel flange/axle part. Any one know the bolt size for those six bolts?
I'm going to document this work for the maintenance section since there isn't any at the moment for this job.
(http://www.protouring.se/files/rear_wheel_bearing.jpg)
Manual is found here:
http://workshop-manuals.com/vauxhall/omega-b/f__rear_axle_and_rear_wheel_suspension/rear_axle_rear_wheel_drive/wheel_bearing/repair_instructions/wheel_hub_and/or_rear_wheel_bearing_remove_and_install_or_replace/
Thanks
Jan
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The Brake Shield to Trailing Arm bolts are M10x1.25mm. They're also spline headed and made of cheese which makes them dead easy to strip/round off.
EPC says the Drive Shaft to Axle Flange bolts are also M10 on Omega A, Senator and Omegas B - it doesn't give a thread but I've just measured my spare LC ones and they're M12x1.25, so I would expect you to need M10x1.25mm for these also.
Good luck with the job - it's one of the worst on our cars. Make sure you have a large empty swear box handy.
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Thanks for the info,
Yes I know it is a dreadful job but a man has to do what a man has to do...
Looking at the head for those bolts it looks like I can use my old sockets for removing the cylinder head bolts from the old reliable Opel 1900 Rekord engine I had over 30 years ago :D
Jan
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The tool I made to do this job bolts on using the actual backing plate bolts.
It is made from a short length of hydraulic ram tubing, a pair of lugs welded on that attach the assembly to the trailing arm, and a plate on the other end with nut welded in the middle for the pusher bolt.
This was made on the car, in about 15minutes and looks very rough. But it effortlessly pushes the hub out of the bearing.
The bearing itself isn't too difficult to remove/replace; I use the set that is readily available for FWD bearings.
With some tooling this isn't the nightmare job that everyone makes it out to be. Working in the street I take about 2hours to do it.
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I have that FWD bearing puller tool and I was going to use it.
I have nuts on order for the pusher bolts I'm making a plate to bolt on the to trailing arm and then to push the hub out of the bearings. I will use the push bolt from the FWD bearing tool, it is 7/8x14 UNF and it wasn't easy to find a place that sold just one such nut :-)
Now I have to find which side is bad, it sounds like it is on the right side when driving, the bad sound goes away when turning right but that might not be a clue.
I jacked it up and let the wheels spin but then it didn't sound at all, maybe because the wheels were then unloaded.
Jan
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Jan, sounds like you are on the right track.
The circlip is large and a sod to remove. You will need some robust pliers for that part of the job.
Part of the bearing usually comes out stuck to the hub. A three legged puller might remove it, cutting a slot in it with an angle grinder is quicker and easier, and gives you a suitable spacer to help pull the hub into the new bearing.
An impact wrench makes several parts of the job much easier!
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I have that FWD bearing puller tool and I was going to use it.
I have nuts on order for the pusher bolts I'm making a plate to bolt on the to trailing arm and then to push the hub out of the bearings. I will use the push bolt from the FWD bearing tool, it is 7/8x14 UNF and it wasn't easy to find a place that sold just one such nut :-)
Now I have to find which side is bad, it sounds like it is on the right side when driving, the bad sound goes away when turning right but that might not be a clue.
I jacked it up and let the wheels spin but then it didn't sound at all, maybe because the wheels were then unloaded.
Jan
Righthand one it is :y reason sound stops when turning right or jacked up is because there is no load on the bearing for it to literally groan about :y
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I have done 4 now, all on estates, I remove the swinging arm and use a ten ton press. I so love doing this job. Not :o
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I have done 4 now, all on estates, I remove the swinging arm and use a ten ton press. I so love doing this job. Not :o
I have a press too, but can have the hub and bearing out in a similar amount of time to what it would take to remove the arm. Let alone using the press to actually do the job.
The bearing isn't a particularly tight fit; the first one I did had been in the freezer overnight, and a good clout to get it seated had it 3/4 of the way in.
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I did it yesterday and it was though. Hardest part was getting the hub back in. I made my own "press" with two threaded bars and some scrap iron. Took a while and some muscle but I got it back in.
I'm preparing a write up for the maintenance guide section on this job.
(http://www.protouring.se/files/omega_wheel_bearing/hub_press_outside.jpg)
Jan
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Nice work :y
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Jan, I use the hub nut and the cut-off bearing race to pull the hub back through the bearing. Takes no time at all with an impact wrench.
Chris currently has my tools, which includes a bearing race with the hole bored out 1mm for a nice loose fit over the hub spindle.
But it's good to see someone else who is making this job look like the viable DIY proposition that it is.
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Could take some pics of said tools tomorrow of it helps?
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I am looking forward to the guide. Not done one yet, but the day may be coming :o
Thanks in advance, Jan. :y
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I have that FWD bearing puller tool and I was going to use it.
I have nuts on order for the pusher bolts I'm making a plate to bolt on the to trailing arm and then to push the hub out of the bearings. I will use the push bolt from the FWD bearing tool, it is 7/8x14 UNF and it wasn't easy to find a place that sold just one such nut :-)
Now I have to find which side is bad, it sounds like it is on the right side when driving, the bad sound goes away when turning right but that might not be a clue.
I jacked it up and let the wheels spin but then it didn't sound at all, maybe because the wheels were then unloaded.
Jan
Righthand one it is :y reason sound stops when turning right or jacked up is because there is no load on the bearing for it to literally groan about :y
Exactly my thinking when mine went, only trouble was....it was the other side! I still haven't worked that out, although I think Master explained it. :-\ :-\ :-\
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Could take some pics of said tools tomorrow of it helps?
Yes, that might help as I've not had any luck at posting pics.
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Read that guide and I'm totally confused as to the procedure ;D
Look forward to the guide.
As some of you know I'm still learning and did my first front wheel bearing t'other day so please be gentle. . .
That consisted of removing the hub / knuckle assembly from the car (drive shaft knocked through, disc off, caliper off, strut bolts off, wishbone ball joint out, track rod end out and remove knuckle from car).
So taking the above experience, is this a case of caliper off, disc off, handbrake shoes off, drive shaft unbolted, remove bolts holding hub in, remove hub, press out wheel bolt assembly, press out old bearing, press in new, refit. Is this roughly the procedure?
Bear in mind I wouldn't diy this, I'd use the garage press etc. but just intrigued if I've got that right.
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Could take some pics of said tools tomorrow of it helps?
Yes, that might help as I've not had any luck at posting pics.
(http://i344.photobucket.com/albums/p326/chrisgixer/3036B9B5-E80E-452B-98A6-38066AD9EDEC_zpshit6ya7a.jpg)
(http://i344.photobucket.com/albums/p326/chrisgixer/E8E1B794-6AA4-4A3F-85F3-0F3019F44462_zpsyd8xfgf2.jpg)
(http://i344.photobucket.com/albums/p326/chrisgixer/95C8A51D-6724-49AD-913C-8B40905D6BF9_zpsqimpc3rs.jpg)
(http://i344.photobucket.com/albums/p326/chrisgixer/879ED075-5C9B-4EF4-A18F-BE8178FB453C_zpsy89ihj3k.jpg)
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Thanks Chris.
An explanation of the bits is in order.
The boxed set is a generic wheel bearing set, bought off EBay for about £40. Sealey have a very similar set but it is much more expensive.
The tools resting against the lid, from right to left are: mini flywheel puller with one of the slots filed out to remove the drive flange; the tubular tool bolts on the back of semi trailing arm through the brake backing-plate holes and pushes the hub out of the bearing; next to that are two inner bearing races bored out to loosely fit over the hub as spacers to pull the hub into the new bearing.
These tools look shit as they were cobbled together on the car using 'scrapbinium', but enable the removal and refitting of the hub and bearing in less time/hassle than removing the arm and using a press.
I do have a drawing for a better hub tool, but need the measurements of the backing plate bolt holes to make it.
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Read that guide and I'm totally confused as to the procedure ;D
Look forward to the guide.
As some of you know I'm still learning and did my first front wheel bearing t'other day so please be gentle. . .
That consisted of removing the hub / knuckle assembly from the car (drive shaft knocked through, disc off, caliper off, strut bolts off, wishbone ball joint out, track rod end out and remove knuckle from car).
So taking the above experience, is this a case of caliper off, disc off, handbrake shoes off, drive shaft unbolted, remove bolts holding hub in, remove hub, press out wheel bolt assembly, press out old bearing, press in new, refit. Is this roughly the procedure?
Bear in mind I wouldn't diy this, I'd use the garage press etc. but just intrigued if I've got that right.
Anyone?
just wondering if puller necessary if ten ton press available ?
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The tooling shown does the same job as the press.
But you have to remove the entire semi-trailing arm to get it in the press, find suitable packers, and hold the heavy assembly while you do the job.
I have a press, and even bodging the tooling(as you can see it is VERY rough) was less work. And that was just the first time I used it. It's not like Range-Rover radius arms, which are removable by undoing two bolts, and often need considerable pressure for some time to release the bush.
I've been thinking about this, and reckon a better made tool could remove the hub and do double duty removing and refitting the bearing. Which would make a good kit for the job.
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just out of interest what you use to push hub in to bearing??
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The tooling shown does the same job as the press.
But you have to remove the entire semi-trailing arm to get it in the press, find suitable packers, and hold the heavy assembly while you do the job.
I have a press, and even bodging the tooling(as you can see it is VERY rough) was less work. And that was just the first time I used it. It's not like Range-Rover radius arms, which are removable by undoing two bolts, and often need considerable pressure for some time to release the bush.
I've been thinking about this, and reckon a better made tool could remove the hub and do double duty removing and refitting the bearing. Which would make a good kit for the job.
:y :y
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I pull it back through with the hub nut and a couple of old inner bearing races modified as spacers. One just has the wide slot I cut in it to get it off the hub so it is now a loose fit, and the other I bored out in the lathe to be a very loose fit.
A cordless impact wrench makes light work of doing these jobs.
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The tooling shown does the same job as the press.
But you have to remove the entire semi-trailing arm to get it in the press, find suitable packers, and hold the heavy assembly while you do the job.
I have a press, and even bodging the tooling(as you can see it is VERY rough) was less work. And that was just the first time I used it. It's not like Range-Rover radius arms, which are removable by undoing two bolts, and often need considerable pressure for some time to release the bush.
I've been thinking about this, and reckon a better made tool could remove the hub and do double duty removing and refitting the bearing. Which would make a good kit for the job.
Those. Are excellent points Nick. I remember I had to faff with the odd shape of the knuckle on the press to get it set level to press it out.
Thanks for clarifying that.
I'm still not sure I understand how you do it (that's not your explanation. . . It's just that I'm a bit thick ;D)
Maybe another video for the oof shop??. :D :)
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Plus, as you mention. . . . Removing of the whole entire semi trailing arm (or in the case of my front bearing, the entire knuckle assembly)
In reality that wasn't much work but definitely take yoUr point about just pressing it out in situ :y