Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: terry paget on 21 May 2015, 18:23:42
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I bought this car, 2001 petrol manual 2.6, Sunday 10 May, drove it home, went well. Changed cam belt, changed 1-3-5 cam cover, removed cam plug stick on 2-4-6 bank, bone dry , so replaced it and did nor change cam cover 2-4-6. Reassembled, started up, no lights on.
Today drove it to work, spanner light came on in half a mile. Autel code reader said no codes, but managed to cancel spanner light. Drove it again, Autel said 0325 knock sensor no. 1 bank. Unplugged no. 1 knock sensor, replugged it. Drove it again. Sapnner light came on again, then it went out and engine block light came on and engine began to misfire. Pedal trick gave codes 0325 0300, 0304.
My only worry was that plugging in 1-3-5 plug stick to socket I had difficulty engaging the locking catch, in fact I am not sure I ever managed it.
Any thoughts?.
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Check rubber boots on the 2-4-6 bank.
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I bought this car, 2001 petrol manual 2.6, Sunday 10 May, drove it home, went well. Changed cam belt, changed 1-3-5 cam cover, removed cam plug stick on 2-4-6 bank, bone dry , so replaced it and did nor change cam cover 2-4-6. Reassembled, started up, no lights on.
Today drove it to work, spanner light came on in half a mile. Autel code reader said no codes, but managed to cancel spanner light. Drove it again, Autel said 0325 knock sensor no. 1 bank. Unplugged no. 1 knock sensor, replugged it. Drove it again. Sapnner light came on again, then it went out and engine block light came on and engine began to misfire. Pedal trick gave codes 0325 0300, 0304.
My only worry was that plugging in 1-3-5 plug stick to socket I had difficulty engaging the locking catch, in fact I am not sure I ever managed it.
Any thoughts?.
It may not be the cause but you won't be happy until you have double checked it..............
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Is the nock sensor wire trapped by the aux tensioner?
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Is the nock sensor wire trapped by the aux tensioner?
No. On the very first cam belt I changed I did indeed misroute the knock sensor cable under the aux tensioner, eventually it frayed though and failed. Now I am very wary of keeping the knock sensor cable clear of trouble. On this car it goes over the top of the aux belt tensioner. Yet the code is there. Puzzling.
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Check rubber boots on the 2-4-6 bank.
As said, there was no oil in 2-4-6 plug holes, so I put the plug stick back and did not change 2-4-6 cam cover. There is an invoice in the service history provided for 6 new NGK plugs and '1 ignition module (left and right side)' dated 15/12/2014, cost £90. This infers both ignition sticks were renewed then. I guess the cr had problems then, but it was fine when I drove it home.
Code 0304 reads as misfire in no. 4. Perhaps I should remove plug stick and plug and investigate.
0300 reads as random misfire. Perhaps they are the wrong plugs.
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Another confession. When replacing 1-3-5 plug stick I dropped and lost one of the 2 retaining screws, so replaced it with a longer one. Might this have pressed on the knock sensor?
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I bought this car, 2001 petrol manual 2.6, Sunday 10 May, drove it home, went well. Changed cam belt, changed 1-3-5 cam cover, removed cam plug stick on 2-4-6 bank, bone dry , so replaced it and did nor change cam cover 2-4-6. Reassembled, started up, no lights on.
Today drove it to work, spanner light came on in half a mile. Autel code reader said no codes, but managed to cancel spanner light. Drove it again, Autel said 0325 knock sensor no. 1 bank. Unplugged no. 1 knock sensor, replugged it. Drove it again. Sapnner light came on again, then it went out and engine block light came on and engine began to misfire. Pedal trick gave codes 0325 0300, 0304.
My only worry was that plugging in 1-3-5 plug stick to socket I had difficulty engaging the locking catch, in fact I am not sure I ever managed it.
Any thoughts?.
It may not be the cause but you won't be happy until you have double checked it..............
True. I have wiggled it and it seems quite secure now.
I am baffled by this fault. I am tempted to change all the plugs for Vx TC plugs, in doing so I can inspect the plug sticks and change the longer screw on 1-3-5 stick.
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Knock sensor bank 1, check the wire for damage earlier in its life.
Also check the alternator for play in the bearings, have a seen a noisy one trigger the knock sensor before.
Knock sensor is mounted on the side of the block so not possible to get near it with a coil pack bolt.
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I bought 6 trade club plugs and fitted them today. All faults cured. The NGK R BKR5EQUPA plugs I replaced were fitted 15 Dec 2014 price £33.60 plus VAT by Prestige Performance Centre, Hailsham, Sussex, so the invoice says. Picture follows. At first glance they looked fine, then I noticed the central electrode was burned down to the level of the insulator and the spark gap is 2.2mm. Didn't last long, did they?
[url]https://www.dropbox.com/s/j228ywlam5a7lyp/Plug50%25.JPG?dl=0[url]
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Here's the pic.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/j228ywlam5a7lyp/Plug50%25.JPG?dl=0
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Erosion caused by the horrific timing discrepancy :-\
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The NGK R BKR5EQUPA plugs I replaced were fitted 15 Dec 2014 price £33.60 plus VAT by Prestige Performance Centre, Hailsham, Sussex, so the invoice says. Picture follows. At first glance they looked fine, then I noticed the central electrode was burned down to the level of the insulator and the spark gap is 2.2mm. Didn't last long, did they?
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/j228ywlam5a7lyp/Plug50%25.JPG?dl=0[/url)
some 4 point plugs come like that new (http://www.gaz-tech.com/sklep/galerie/7/737f0a52b23f37b94210850bb3d839fb32065.jpg)
http://www.gaz-tech.com/sklep/index.php?p352,swieca-ngk-bkr5equpa (http://www.gaz-tech.com/sklep/index.php?p352,swieca-ngk-bkr5equpa)
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That's what that brew of NGK plug come like as standard as they are a surface discharge plug.
Clearly not suited to an Omega setup!
Al, although valve timing was out (a lot), the spark timing should still be spot on (crank sensor plus knock control) :y
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Reinforces what many have said - TC genuine GM plugs are the way to go. There's never been any advantage that I've heard of by going for other brands. Sometimes you get plugs cheaper than TC, but always at the expense of lengevity, so a false economy. Sleep soundly tonight knowing you've got the best plugs you can get for your Vauxhall :y
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Just did a quick check the BKR5EQUPA are the wrong temperature rating, they should be BKR6EQUPA :y
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Further misbehaviour! Car was running perfectly Friday morning, no hint of a misfire. Drove it to Oxfordshire, 80 miles or so, then detected a slight misfire, when pulling full throttle at low revs, say below 1400rpm. No engine management lights flickering or staying on, and all fine above 1500rpm. Fault persisted on the journey home tonight. Have not checked for fault codes.
Seemed like an ignition fault, not firing under maximum compression. I had experienced similar problems on other PFL Omegas when the coil pack was on the way out. On 15/12/2014 East Sussex Tuning fitted 'Ignition Coil Module (left and right side)' for £90 plus VAT. Is that the price for genuine Vx ignition modules, or did they fit aftermarket items? If so, could that be the cause of misfire?
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Two at that price will be either cheap Chinese tat or second hand :-\
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Coil pacs are genuine Bosch. Or should be.
GM Bosch £120 plus a side
Bosch from a motor factor £50-70 a side
There's no way he fitted two with labour for that price. Or as Al says, two cheap shite cp's where fitted. Do they say Bosch on the top?
And does the problem worsen after rain? Heavy or otherwise?
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£90+vat was the whole bill?
That would only cover labour at most garages :-\
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£90+vat was the whole bill?
That would only cover labour at most garages :-\
On the same invoice were 4 filters, 6 plugs, an oil pressure switch and 4 hours labour @ £35/hour, £140, total £281 plus VAT=£337.79 total.
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Cheap Chinese tat I'm afraid. I had a pair of second hand plug sticks kicking around in my bits store, so I popped them in. Misfire cured! My sympathy goes out to the previous owner, who had East Sussex Tuning fit the wrong plugs and aftermarket coil sticks; he had no chance of getting it to run well after that. Pic follows of my stock used coil stick (top) and the shiny new unlabelled (bottom). It's a lesson to me, always buy genuine Vx. Trouble is they can be so much more expensive.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/q5wwf0t4a5ikcw8/plugSTICK50%25.jpg?dl=0 (https://www.dropbox.com/s/q5wwf0t4a5ikcw8/plugSTICK50%25.jpg?dl=0)
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Aaa! That good one doesn't say Bosch. Thought they did.:-\
There was a link on here for genuine Bosch for £50.