Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: GastronomicKleptomaniac on 12 October 2015, 15:24:40
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What's the best way to deal? Previous garage has blatantly overtightened, as it felt iffy coming out, and sure enough, it brought a load of swarf with it. Can it be helicoiled, or tapped with a slightly larger bolt? (and what size would be sensible?)... Or is it easier to get a second hand inlet manifold?
Are manifolds different between engines? Its a 1995 3.0, short plenum.
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.... Can it be helicoiled, ....
Yes. Though I'd use a Timesert http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90513.0 because they're better than Helicoils IMHO and I have a set in my garage. :y
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.... Can it be helicoiled, ....
Yes. Though I'd use a Timesert http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90513.0 because they're better than Helicoils IMHO and I have a set in my garage. :y
Did they use them on the multirams? ;)
Ta chap, will have a look! :D
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3.0/2.6/3.2 inlets all the same :y
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Can you run the thread with a tap ?
If yes,sorted, if no re-drill@tap to nxt size so m6 to m8, :)
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If any of the thread is still good you could threadlock some appropriate studding in place, and use a nut.
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What's the best way to deal? Previous garage has blatantly overtightened, as it felt iffy coming out, and sure enough, it brought a load of swarf with it. Can it be helicoiled, or tapped with a slightly larger bolt? (and what size would be sensible?)... Or is it easier to get a second hand inlet manifold?
Are manifolds different between engines? Its a 1995 3.0, short plenum.
....and why don't we like garages?
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What's the best way to deal? Previous garage has blatantly overtightened, as it felt iffy coming out, and sure enough, it brought a load of swarf with it. Can it be helicoiled, or tapped with a slightly larger bolt? (and what size would be sensible?)... Or is it easier to get a second hand inlet manifold?
Are manifolds different between engines? Its a 1995 3.0, short plenum.
....and why don't we like garages?
Because were all tight with us brass.
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3.0/2.6/3.2 inlets all the same :y
Sweet deal. It is the inlet manifold that the plenum bolts onto, isn't it? I haven't got the car here, MrsGK has taken the MV6, and the ex plod is currently inaccessible without some climbing equipment, so I can't double check myself :D
Can you run the thread with a tap ?
If yes,sorted, if no re-drill@tap to nxt size so m6 to m8, :)
Duly noted - are the originals M6, or was that just an example? :D
If any of the thread is still good you could threadlock some appropriate studding in place, and use a nut.
Only about 8-10mm thread in total isn't there? I was considering a longer piece of threaded bar with nut + washer on each end, but have no idea if thats viable? Is there enough lower access?
Could the resultant lack of clamping force result in a shitty idle? Mr Mog and I tried leaning on I with it running and it seemed to make no difference... But its one of those things I'd like to fix while we are there.
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Can you run the thread with a tap ?
If yes,sorted, if no re-drill@tap to nxt size so m6 to m8, :)
Duly noted - are the originals M6, or was that just an example? :D
They are bigger than M6 - I am 99% certain that the are M8.
If you start messing about with larger diameter threads the you will need drill a larger clearance hole through the manifold - if you go for stud and nut then you won't get a spanner on the nut as it won't fit in the recess in the plenum.
Fitting a thread insert would be quicker and easier.
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Can you run the thread with a tap ?
If yes,sorted, if no re-drill@tap to nxt size so m6 to m8, :)
Duly noted - are the originals M6, or was that just an example? :D
They are bigger than M6 - I am 99% certain that the are M8.
If you start messing about with larger diameter threads the you will need drill a larger clearance hole through the manifold - if you go for stud and nut then you won't get a spanner on the nut as it won't fit in the recess in the plenum.
Fitting a thread insert would be quicker and easier.
Appreciate that! Thank you dude! :D
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Machine mart sell Helicoil kits https://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/range/details/thread-repair-kits (https://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/range/details/thread-repair-kits) for £18
Timesert kits appear to cost about £45
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Machine mart sell Helicoil kits https://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/range/details/thread-repair-kits (https://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/range/details/thread-repair-kits) for £18
Timesert kits appear to cost about £45
that's cos they're more than twice as good ;) ;)
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Machine mart sell Helicoil kits https://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/range/details/thread-repair-kits (https://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/range/details/thread-repair-kits) for £18
Timesert kits appear to cost about £45
that's cos they're more than twice as good ;) ;)
Not arguing - just pointing out what is available. :y
Timeserts are bigger and stronger but if you just need to do a single insert then a Helicoil is far stronger than it needs to be to hold down one corner of the inlet plenum.
The key with a Helicoil is that it needs to be screwed in and then wound back to get the coil to expand into the thread in the parent metal. Most problems with Helicoils falling out are probably due them not being properly installed. Timeserts are likely to be more user friendly ;)
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...
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Not arguing - just pointing out what is available. :y
Timeserts are bigger and stronger but if you just need to do a single insert then a Helicoil is far stronger than it needs to be to hold down one corner of the inlet plenum.
The key with a Helicoil is that it needs to be screwed in and then wound back to get the coil to expand into the thread in the parent metal. Most problems with Helicoils falling out are probably due them not being properly installed. Timeserts are likely to be more user friendly ;)
I wouldn't say that a Timesert is particularly bigger than a Helicoil, but I do agree with your general comments ...... and it's always so much better if you can 'borrow' stuff from work or receive a kit as a 'redundancy payment' ::) from a previous employment :y :y
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Especially if you want to buy a 'Master Set' .. the price is a little eye watering.
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Dare I venture that a whole short plenum could be sourced, there's surely a breaker on here that could provide an un-knackered one for the OP, at a lot less than the £45 plus time to do the job. :)
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3.0/2.6/3.2 inlets all the same :y
Sweet deal. It is the inlet manifold that the plenum bolts onto, isn't it? I haven't got the car here, MrsGK has taken the MV6, and the ex plod is currently inaccessible without some climbing equipment, so I can't double check myself :D INDEED IT IS :y
Can you run the thread with a tap ?
If yes,sorted, if no re-drill@tap to nxt size so m6 to m8, :)
Duly noted - are the originals M6, or was that just an example? :D
If any of the thread is still good you could threadlock some appropriate studding in place, and use a nut.
Only about 8-10mm thread in total isn't there? I was considering a longer piece of threaded bar with nut + washer on each end, but have no idea if thats viable? Is there enough lower access?NOT REALLY THE ROOM/ACCESS BENEATH TO MAKE IT VIABLE
Could the resultant lack of clamping force result in a shitty idle? Mr Mog and I tried leaning on I with it running and it seemed to make no difference... But its one of those things I'd like to fix while we are there.
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Dare I venture that a whole short plenum could be sourced, there's surely a breaker on here that could provide an un-knackered one for the OP, at a lot less than the £45 plus time to do the job. :)
That's what I was considering, but its the inlet manifold we need (and its not my car...) :D
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Oh, apologies, knowing how easy they are to strip (8mn if iirc) i assumed plenum.
So we're talking the 'divider' yes? Well, my original point stands. I could get you a 3.0/2.6/3.2 inlet for less than £45 posed, if that helps? :)
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I have the same problem with my car. Some garage stripped the tread (this is why I like doing as many jobs on the car by myself).
From what I know, the 3.0 divider has larger ports than 2.5 one.
Is just one thread striped? If so, and the O-rings are in good condition (not flat), than you assembly it like that - there shouldn't be any airleaks. And then start looking for a cheap second-hand inlet divider. This would be the best route.
Using a helicoil isn't hard, but it requires some 'feel'. IMO, helicoil is a good solution only when the broken part can't be replaced (or it's too expensive). It is a good point that you can buy a set of helicoils/timeserts for the price of a secon-hand divider, and after the repair you are left with the remaining helicoils for future use, but if you don't work much on cars, you will probably newer use them.
Also, you can take your divider to the machine job and have them repair the thread.
PS. here's a good site on this subject: http://www.repairengineering.com/thread-repair.html
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Hi all,can anyone confirm if i need to get the 6m or 8m helicoils.Dean. :y
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Hi all,can anyone confirm if i need to get the 6m or 8m helicoils.Dean. :y
If we need to, we'll get an inlet manifold from a member, rather than helicoiling. Its marginally less effort and less likely to bugger up :y
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Hi all,can anyone confirm if i need to get the 6m or 8m helicoils.Dean. :y
If we need to, we'll get an inlet manifold from a member, rather than helicoiling. Its marginally less effort and less likely to bugger up :y
:y :y