Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: darren757 on 03 December 2015, 21:26:24
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Hi all..you've all been kind enough to help before but I need your advice again.
I have a 2001 3.2 auto estate .
A few weeks back the lights on auto selector didn't all light up when in respective gear then they all came on !!..then after a while if in D .light would match up and all ok.
Then about a day a go when in D ,didn't feel like it had changed down and struggled to pull away as if in too higher gear..then got TC light on.sport mode wouldn't engage either but box works fine if manually used.
Today whilst driving along engine just cut out!
Wouldn't restart .
Left 10 mins then it started and stopped again ..cut out.
Towed home and then it started again ok.
Tick over not as even as before IE wandered between 500 rpm and 800 rpm.
My question is it reminds me of crankshaft sensor fault and I wondered if it was a mixture of crankshaft sensor and the fact that selector box needs cleaning ..are the two items connected and could this be throwing up gear box/TC issues?
Also what's the service interns for cam belts..hope someone can advise on this issue as I enjoy the car ..mileage is 108k
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Sounds like crank sensor failure and gear selector switch needs cleaning.
Do the crank sensor first!
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Thank you for advice..do you know if crank sensor can cause gearbox /TC issues?
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Thank you for advice..do you know if crank sensor can cause gearbox /TC issues?
No. They are two separate issues that need dealing with individually. Crank sensor is the most critical.
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Regarding the cambelt....its 4 years or 40,000. Do not disregard.!!!!!!
However, if you have not got absolute proof of the last one being fitted.....do it now!!!!!!!!! And its not only the belt, you need the whole kit, which includes tensioners. :y
Well documented on here, and disregarding will lead to you owning scrap on wheels. (this is coming from someone who has had three belts let go on various cars, through not knowing about these things :'( :y
If the years come up before the mileage....do it. If the mileage comes up first....do it !!!!!!
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And do the auxiliary belt at the same time not sure about the tensioner on the auxiliary belt someone with the knowledge wll know.
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Hi all just cleaned gear selector switch and worked perfectly before I started the engine all idications as they should be corresponding to selected gear.
I've just changed crank sensor and run car and fault I had before with gear indications are back
1 3 R work correctly
2 d n p ..all lights are on on gear indicator .
I don't know if anyone else has had this?
Selector switch was fairly clean in side and I used switch cleaner on all parts.
Has anyone got any suggestions what problem might be?
Thanks
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Hi all just cleaned gear selector switch and worked perfectly before I started the engine all idications as they should be corresponding to selected gear.
I've just changed crank sensor and run car and fault I had before with gear indications are back
1 3 R work correctly
2 d n p ..all lights are on on gear indicator .
I don't know if anyone else has had this?
Selector switch was fairly clean in side and I used switch cleaner on all parts.
Has anyone got any suggestions what problem might be?
Thanks
Still selector switch
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Hi all just cleaned gear selector switch and worked perfectly before I started the engine all idications as they should be corresponding to selected gear.
I've just changed crank sensor and run car and fault I had before with gear indications are back
1 3 R work correctly
2 d n p ..all lights are on on gear indicator .
I don't know if anyone else has had this?
Selector switch was fairly clean in side and I used switch cleaner on all parts.
Has anyone got any suggestions what problem might be?
Thanks
Still selector switch
Thanks for help on this ..switch tracks looked worn in certain places ..ill get another switch and try it!!
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Thanks for help..has anyone had this issue before ..it also knocks the TC out ..just abit puzzled by the fact after rebuilding switch it went through all selections perfectly then when I ran the engine is was straight back to its old tricks
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Would it be too silly to suggest checking the gearbox ATF level?
Ron.
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Gear level is fine ..it seems to be the logic or system that signals the appropriate gear position to light..its just one of those situations where it's how much money do you throw at it for me !!
It's been a great car and is due timing belt as well..if the transmission is on its way I'll just crush it .
What ever the fault is it knocks out the TC and sport mode as well after a period of driving
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It's a simple fault... If cleaning the switch as per the guide hasn't sorted it, then a new switch is probably in order...
First thing though is to ensure that the contacts are clean and dry within the plugs :y
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Thanks again ..will get another switch and try it!!
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Hi
I changed crank sensor and all ok for 2 days then it stopped again TC light on and I can't read codes as spanner car symbol will not flash at all ..just stays on..I am wondered if ecu has had it..has anyone had this problem before ??
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Hi
I changed crank sensor and all ok for 2 days then it stopped again TC light on and I can't read codes as spanner car symbol will not flash at all ..just stays on..I am wondered if ecu has had it..has anyone had this problem before ??
how are you doing the pedal trick :-\
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Or could it be cam sensor ??
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Replace the spanner light bulb, redo pedal trick and report back ;)
To add, cam sensor on the 3.2 will always throw a code and is rare to say the least...
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Hi
I am doing pedal test as I have done in past brake pedal and accelerator pressed and turning ignition on but not starting ..just stays on no flashing .
When I crank engine tacho needle moves so new crank sensor seems ok..I had same problem before I cleaned gear selector switch and put new Vauxhall gem crank sensor on ..ran fine for a few days then same fault with TC light on !!
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Hi
I am doing pedal test as I have done in past brake pedal and accelerator pressed and turning ignition on but not starting ..just stays on no flashing .
When I crank engine tacho needle moves so new crank sensor seems ok..I had same problem before I cleaned gear selector switch and put new Vauxhall gem crank sensor on ..ran fine for a few days then same fault with TC light on !!
Is the spanner light on when you turn the ignition on?
If not, it needs a new bulb before you do anything else...
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Hi EML light stay on at anytime until I crank engine then it goes out but engine doesn't start
Thanks
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Hi EML light stay on at anytime until I crank engine then it goes out but engine doesn't start
Thanks
The SPANNER light is the one that is required for the pedal trick... Without this working you're simply pissing in the wind...
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Hi I know spanner light is needed and I have used it this many times but it will not flash just stays on..the last time this happened eventually engine started after being left for a while then EML light worked normally again for fault reading
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Hiya. Did I look at this once before a few years back?
Are you still local?
Want me to plug in and see what we can see?
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Hi Jimbob yes you did used to be in hoole now in Wrenbury would you mind plugging in and see what the hell is going on!!when could you come over kettle will be on!!
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Ahh yes I remember. As it happens I work in Crewe so can pop in on my way home?
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Right, Popped over and had a look at this, without success unfortunately.
First of all, the pedal trick does not seem to work on this car currently, although historically it did.
When I arrived we had the following fault codes
Engine
P0420 - Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)
(01) - Present
P0430 - Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 2)
(01) - Not present
P1700 - Service Vehicle Soon Request from Transmission Control Module
(08) - Not present
P1700 - <Unknown DTC>
(00) - Not present
P0560 - System Voltage Malfunction
(08) - Present
P0335 - <Unknown DTC>
(04) - Not present
P0230 - Fuel Pump Primary Circuit Low
(02) - Not present
P0560 - <Unknown DTC>
(0D) - Not present
P0340 - Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit High Input
(01) - Not present
P0340 - Camshaft Position Sensor Signal Missing
(04) - Intermittent
Gearbox
P0730 - Gear Ratio Incorrect
(08) - Not present
P0705 - Automatic Transmission Range Sensor Circuit Malfunction
(08) - Not present
ABS
C0256 - <Unknown DTC>
(00) - Present
Cleared the codes, gearbox remained clear - As expected, the car neither started or moved, happy they are historic given the selector switch issues, the lights were working perfectly today.
The ABS Code remained thoughout
Engine
P0560 - System Voltage Malfunction
(08) - Present
P0340 - Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit High Input
(01) - Intermittent
Live data did reveal the engine is in reduced power / limp mode/
Right, we had voltage problems, so most the starting was attempted using jump leads
I had a spare cam sensor with me, was from a 2.5, but using that nothing changed at all, same cranking, same codes afterwards
I put on the cam sensor from my 3.2, and the cranking was identical, however the codes didnt pop back, although this may be due to less cranking as it was using my battery without the car running.
I also unplugged the MAF to generate another fault code while trying to get the pedal trick to work, strangely this didnt log a code at all?
Thoughts anyone?
The only code apart from voltage which is persistant is the cam sensor, but im fairly sure weve ruled this out given they are bulletproof, and we tried 2 spares.
Crank sensor is another possibility, but im sure Darryn has a spare and has tried it, as we know these dont always give a code, and there was a historic 335 (crank sensor code) logged initially, although this didnt come back
And given the pedal trick not working, and maf removal not generating a code leads us to the last possibility that the ecu is malfunctioning to a degree, although this could be voltage related i guess.
i cleared codes, and reset learned values etc, and once the battery is fully charged, Darryn is going to try disconnecting the battery for a bit and will try again. clutching at staws, but thats where we are.
Any other / better ideas anyone?
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Any other / better ideas anyone?
How much fuel is in the tank?
Did you pull any spark plugs? Any sign of petrol? Were the plugs wet with fuel? I seem to recall someone saying/writing that the V6 uses a lot of enrichment when cold so can be prone to flooding if it doesn't start first turn of the key. :-\
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Just to say thanks to Jimbob disputed the horrific weather kept trying to get the old girl going ..thanks
There's quarter tank of petrol even though jimbob a computer said less..again power??
I am wondering if there's a cell out on battery ..this would give under voltage dispite jump leads?
I am charging battery ..have had all electrics on a lot and maybe it's just not enough to run all engine electrics and crank ..will advise
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Just checked the ABS code in TIS,
its just limp mode. I think thats ABS in Limp because engine is, rather than other way around.
computer reported 2 litres in tank, yet guage was about 1/4 of a tank, thought this was likely due to low voltage. I suppose chucking a few more litres in wouldnt hurt... Guess the wet spark plug trick could help here too.
Remind me, you had tried your other crank sensor hadnt you?
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Jim, when you had it plugged in, did you test to see if the throttle position sensor was working?
Seems odd the pedal trick doesn't work, and along with the non-start? :-\
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Yes put new crank sensor in .
Will check plugs etc
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Good news got it to fire up for a few seconds by using QuickStart straight in to throttle body so it seems to be fuel ..I will put some more fuel in but what else could be preventing fuel getting in to engine with code issues not reading could it be throttle potentiometer
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Good news got it to fire up for a few seconds by using QuickStart straight in to throttle body so it seems to be fuel ..I will put some more fuel in but what else could be preventing fuel getting in to engine with code issues not reading could it be throttle potentiometer
Using that stuff is generally not reccomended here :y
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Hi yes I don't like QuickStart but it proved one think no fuel .
As I can read codes i am
Thinking potentiometer ..is there any way to test ..I will check fuel first dispite what guage says.
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Hi yes I don't like QuickStart but it proved one think no fuel .
As I can read codes i am
Thinking potentiometer ..is there any way to test ..I will check fuel first dispite what guage says.
Only with TechII, or 'other' software designed for Opel. Some ELM327 readers will do it too.
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Hi yes I don't like QuickStart but it proved one think no fuel .
As I can read codes i am
Thinking potentiometer ..is there any way to test ..I will check fuel first dispite what guage says.
Afraid not... That stuff is so volatile it ignites under compression so it's proven either no fuel or/and no spark ;)
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Unfortunately we ran out of 12v's for looking at much live data.
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Thanks for all the info..QuickStart is 50 percent do methyl either and whilst it promotes ignition on a petrol engine the compression ratio isn't high enough for it to ignite..the only reason I know this is the research a friend of mine did and it's ignition promoting qualities on compression engines !!
When I have a mo and some daylight I will take potentiometer off encase it's stuck or there's something obvious but other than that I'll need to substitute it..
It would be nice to get to the bottom of this!!
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Is the car level? Put at least two, preferably three gallons more fuel in and give the bottom of the tank a whack as you crank it... If it fires fuel pump needs replacing, if it doesn't then try the two purple relays... One controls the fuel pump, tother the injectors. They can burn out...
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Hi yes I don't like QuickStart but it proved one think no fuel .
As I can read codes i am
Thinking potentiometer ..is there any way to test ..I will check fuel first dispite what guage says.
If you have an Android phone or tablet and want a cheap way to see live data then I find that Scanmyopel https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.ScanMyOpel.Main&hl=en_GB (https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.ScanMyOpel.Main&hl=en_GB) will show throttle pedal position.
I think that the throttle pedal has two potentiometers and the output from both has to tally else it brings up an error code :-\ not at all certain about that though :-\
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Ok just done a bit more.
No fuel present in either fuel line to injectors .
Plugs bone dry but correct colour.
Can't here fuel pump running when I turn ignition on.
So if I am correct its pump or relays for pump .
Where would I find relay for pump.
Sorry just seen previous post car is level and quarter of a tank of petrol .
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Sorry forgot to mention spark is good
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Get a meter out. Start with the connector under the inspection panel in boot floor.
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Add more fuel, and try test above... :y
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Thanks will check but still cannot get EML to flash codes just stays on ..it used to work so that isn't helping!!
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Success ..the car seemed to fix itself before I checked the fuel pump power.
I thought I would look at pink relays for injector and pump.
They get warm quickly ..I removed the one nearest battery and it gives me exact same fault and EML will not flash on peddle test.
So it would seem it's a dodgy relay.
Where's the best place to get correct spares .
I hope that's it fixed now ..also with relay removed TC light stays on!!
I am also looking for camcorder gasket fir 2.2 facelift petrol.
CAN I SAY THANK YOU TO ALL WHO HAVE HELPED ME!!
Jimbob is a true gent on every respect
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GM only... not worth messing with second hand... have personally replaced them on 5 cars... incidentally all 3.2s ;)
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Bit late to the party but I had similar on a 2.6 and fuel relay was at fault. I have a couple knocking round somewhere but maybe new is best, I have a good autobox selector switch if it still plays up
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Excellent news, will watch with interest if that fixes it permanently :)
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Does anyone know if EM relay controls all engine functions including power to plugs..I assume not as when I remove this relay it still sparks when cranked but fuel will not pump down fuel line ..this produces same fault I had that so spanner wouldn't flash just stayed on and wouldn't do pedal test.
I am going to change both relays ..I looked in EM relay and there's a resistor or diode in base which I think is switch to operate coil in relay ..it looks uncooked but would imagine it all gets hot in there near engine for 15 years!!
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One purple relay controls fuel pump, tother controls injectors. Neither have any say whatsoever in whether it sparks or not ;)
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Does anyone know if EM relay controls all engine functions including power to plugs..I assume not as when I remove this relay it still sparks when cranked but fuel will not pump down fuel line ..this produces same fault I had that so spanner wouldn't flash just stayed on and wouldn't do pedal test.
I am going to change both relays ..I looked in EM relay and there's a resistor or diode in base which I think is switch to operate coil in relay ..it looks uncooked but would imagine it all gets hot in there near engine for 15 years!!
probably a diode (or maybe a varistor) to prevent voltage spikes from frying the output transistors in the ECU (assuming the relays are switched by the ECU)