Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Car Chat => Topic started by: EMD on 15 December 2015, 11:37:57
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I can't remember what it was that someone on here
recommended for rust treatment :-\
Anyone have any advice , its for rear arches just temporary for now
till i can cut the bad stuff out in the summer .
Previous stuff like currust and genolite is not good enough :(
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I've used the loctite stuff, which seems to have been fine. (confess I haven't stripped back off all the paint in my inner wings just to check however, so can't really say conclusively, sadly)
Of the opinion that no rust killing stuff is really any good, and any rust needs cutting out, or it will be back. However I know exactly what you mean, and I agree, you just want to do a 'good enough job until the weather is a bit more hospitable.
I know there is some very expensive thick sludge-like stuff I've heard of on Classic Car forums, which is basically an acid, and doesn't so much chemically convert (like the loctite, kurrust etc), but actually dissolves the rust, leaving only steel. Sadly no idea of the name :(
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Bilt Hamber have the complete range of stuff and their mail order service is good.
http://www.bilthamber.com (http://www.bilthamber.com)
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Bilt hamber i think was the one i remember ; thanks :y
Just want to scour off the bubbling treat the rust and prime , not the
best time of year to be doing it but it will at least stop the worst of it :y
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Have used the Bilthamber S80 on the rear arches as they had all been replaced recently,also sprayed as many accessible underside sections as possible including inside the jacking points. This is just a stop gap until the early part of next year when all three are going up to Rustbusters in Spalding for the full Monty, as they have been recommended by a lot of members of a local classic car club that I belong to.....not cheap but they guarantee their work and for a bit extra you can have a yearly maintenance plan,just depends how much you love your Omega :-* :-* :)
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I own and have used their products - had no idea they actually did work too?? Given Spalding isn't too far from me this sounds good... :)
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It's a bit of a punch for me,and as it's a two day process, I'm going to have a hotel stay added into the mix, and that's only if they don't find any structural rust which will have to be fixed in addition to the treatment itself.Bit of a fingers crossed situation and how long is a piece of string as to the final cost to each car :-\ I'm sure that many members will be questioning my sanity on this one, as it's the viability/cost factor to keeping three fourteen year old cars on the road that doesn't make any sense at all. Got to be I'm a sad old git who can't see the wood for the trees :'(........words of wisdom from SWMBO ::)
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Have used the Bilthamber S80 on the rear arches as they had all been replaced recently,also sprayed as many accessible underside sections as possible including inside the jacking points. This is just a stop gap until the early part of next year when all three are going up to Rustbusters in Spalding for the full Monty, as they have been recommended by a lot of members of a local classic car club that I belong to.....not cheap but they guarantee their work and for a bit extra you can have a yearly maintenance plan,just depends how much you love your Omega :-* :-* :)
Thats the one i just ordered ;) Not the cheapest but then you get what you pay for ,fed up of the so called rust treatments that just do not work :( So much time and effort put into spraying/prep ect only to be greeted with rust popping through again . Angle grinder will be out on it when its warmer weather ::)
There's other areas i can use it then coat with stone chip underneath .
What we do for our cars eh ::)
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It's a bit of a punch for me,and as it's a two day process, I'm going to have a hotel stay added into the mix, and that's only if they don't find any structural rust which will have to be fixed in addition to the treatment itself.Bit of a fingers crossed situation and how long is a piece of string as to the final cost to each car :-\ I'm sure that many members will be questioning my sanity on this one, as it's the viability/cost factor to keeping three fourteen year old cars on the road that doesn't make any sense at all. Got to be I'm a sad old git who can't see the wood for the trees :'(........words of wisdom from SWMBO ::)
Depends. Only - and only when you've spent as much on your car/s as a brand new equivalent (surely about 40k in today's money?) can you admit mathematically that we've not crossed the line where 'a new car would be better/cheaper' - however, for me it's like either...
Buy a new pair of cheap £25 shoes once a year or
Buy a £125 pair of shoes and have them resoled once a year for £20
Difference being you have the same, reliable, quality pair of shoes, which are broken in to your feet, look after them and they'll last forever. :)
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EMD - will be looking into the S80 stuff, then, for sure. :)
My back arches are pretty good, but I'm still having them done very soon, no point in waiting until they get bad.
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It's really not worth bothering with to be honest, arches on my 2.2 are starting to go a bit, but will never get to be a serious problem other than cosmetic.
I don't bother washing the 2.2, hides the rust well ;D
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Arches on the mig are good on the outside , just starting to go underneath but the mummy bus rear arches need sorting first . Didnt help when i dug out loads of compacted mud from under the lip ::) Now it open to the elements ::) Still a bit of road salt should wash it through ::)
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Somewhere there's a cracking thread on a forum about a Cav having their back arches done. I think the same chap who's doing the MV6 in Performance Vauxhall. Basically shows how the outside looks not so bad, but the inner arch takes a lot more of the punishment. Not saying yours will be, I've got similar, and had a look, and my inners look ok. Probably a lot more underseal/rubberised coating on Omegas vs cavs. plastic arch liners do help a hell of a lot, too.
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It's a bit of a punch for me,and as it's a two day process, I'm going to have a hotel stay added into the mix, and that's only if they don't find any structural rust which will have to be fixed in addition to the treatment itself.Bit of a fingers crossed situation and how long is a piece of string as to the final cost to each car :-\ I'm sure that many members will be questioning my sanity on this one, as it's the viability/cost factor to keeping three fourteen year old cars on the road that doesn't make any sense at all. Got to be I'm a sad old git who can't see the wood for the trees :'(........words of wisdom from SWMBO ::)
Depends. Only - and only when you've spent as much on your car/s as a brand new equivalent (surely about 40k in today's money?) can you admit mathematically that we've not crossed the line where 'a new car would be better/cheaper' - however, for me it's like either...
Buy a new pair of cheap £25 shoes once a year or
Buy a £125 pair of shoes and have them resoled once a year for £20
Difference being you have the same, reliable, quality pair of shoes, which are broken in to your feet, look after them and they'll last forever. :)
(http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/k536/tidla1/trigger_zpsx3otyxor.jpg)
;D Sorry, couldnt help it.
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plastic arch liners do help a hell of a lot, too.
never sure if they are a good thing,i agree they stop a lot but if water gets behind they turn into a rust trap
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Applied the HYDRATE 80 , looks like its done a good job so far :y
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did mine over 2 years ago seems fine so far touch wood. trick is to remove as much rust as possible and make sure what is left can be fully penetrated by a rust converter. also rinse off all salts with water and dry before applying the converter - meths or other solvents won't dissolve salt. i used vactan as the converter followed by a white spirit primer paint - fortress anti rust paint from B&Q, then lots of underseal on the inside. now i think i would use fertan instead of vactan, fertan is washed off, vactan dries to a primer surface which is acidic and could fail.
best stuff though i suspect is epoxy 2 part as used for steel boat hulls eg jotun jotamastic.
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May be the topic you are referring to is one I added to a bit back......may be of some help....
Not a cure for rusty arches, but if the decision is made to change a rusty car, and a mint low mileage one is found with no rust in the rear arches (not many of those about now, I admit, but...), then the following may be of help. I have done it on all my Omegas since I bought my first one in 2004, and not one of my current ones (I have five at present 😀) including the first one I bought in 2004 have rusty arches... I first did this experimenting with ways to stop the wheelarch rust on Vauxhall Cavaliers many years ago, as they suffered in the same way as the Omega.....
Remove all interior trim from the boot /tailgate area, including fuel cap motor, and the radio electric gubbins in the rear n/s corner on the Elite estate, so that you can gain as much access as possible to the inner arches. Rig up a small light so that it can pass through the upper holes around the wheelarch so you see where you are aiming. Use a thinish rust proofing compound such as Supertrol (very good at penetrating welded seams) or a Bilt Hamber product with a long flexible lance. Use a small hand held garden spray for the Supertrol product initially set on a jet rather than a fan spray (you will need the accuracy and distance of the jet to get right to the front of the wheelarch), but make sure you fully extract each rear seat belt before starting this and secure with a peg, or you will end up with the fluid all over the exposed part of the seat belt! Make sure the lance is correctly in the area around the lower wheelarch, and the start applying. Do it on a warm day, and you should see the fluid eventually start seeping from areas you never imagined, but at least you can see where it's gone and that it's going to protect your wheel arches from the dreaded tinworm. It won't stop rust that's already in there - it may slow it a little, but remember that if you plan on welding any already rusty areas, then the compound will ignite very easily! I would only recommend this for known immaculate arches, or ones that have been repaired properly with new metal.
I have no connection to these products; they are ones I've used and have liked. Waxoyl is ok, but you have to thin it right down with white spirit for it to seep and penetrate, otherwise it bridges seams.
Like I say, I have done it on all mine - they all stand out all year round, and none have got any rust whatsoever in the arches. Well worth half a days work one sunny afternoon, I would argue.....
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My Terracan is booked in on the 19/03/16 for a complete chassis clean & underseal at Rustbusters , local to me & highly recommended.