Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: LC0112G on 26 February 2016, 09:39:10
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Hi,
I've has a slow water leak for many months that I've assumed was a heater matrix. However, on return from Gatters on Wednesday, the engine temp shot through the roof approaching Fleet services, so I coasted into the services and took a look. Header tank completely empty. I had a 5L bottle of coolant in the boot, so tipped that in, and most of it proceeded to pour out under the car. A quick look under the bonnet and there was loads of water spurting out from the top heater matrix connection. A quick fumble, a push on the connector and it appears to click back into position. So top up with water, heater on "LO" to try and bypass the matrix, and then drive home to Yeovil (in -5 deg temps) with no heater. Brrrrr.
No time to look yesterday, but a quick fiddle this morning. Basically you can pull the top hose off the pipes with little effort - the locking ring doesn't seem to work, and worse, some of the plastic coupling is broken. Water is basically dripping out all the time, and obviously gets worse once the water gets up to temperature/pressure.
I need to go to London tomorrow and Rugby on Monday so no time to wait for or fit a replacement pipe. Is there an OOFER's 'approved' bodge? I'm thinking to hack saw off the plastic end to the pipe and then just push the rubber onto the metal heater matrix pipes and jubilee clamp it together.
Ta
Malcolm
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That's the only real bodge that's viable. It does, however, mean you can't do it properly in future without replacing said pipe as well ;)
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That's the only real bodge that's viable. It does, however, mean you can't do it properly in future without replacing said pipe as well ;)
What do you mean - 'do it properly in the future' ? The plastic coupling appears to be part of the pipe, and if the coupling is broken then replacement of the whole pipe is the only 'proper' solution. So cutting the coupling off doesn't really affect 'doing it properly in the future' because the whole pipe needs replacing anyway. Or am I missing something?
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What engine? If V6, think I have a brand new upper pipe in the garage.
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That's the only real bodge that's viable. It does, however, mean you can't do it properly in future without replacing said pipe as well ;)
What do you mean - 'do it properly in the future' ? The plastic coupling appears to be part of the pipe, and if the coupling is broken then replacement of the whole pipe is the only 'proper' solution. So cutting the coupling off doesn't really affect 'doing it properly in the future' because the whole pipe needs replacing anyway. Or am I missing something?
Couldn't remember whether the plastic was on the pipe or separate :-[
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I bought the section of pipe plus connector when I re-plumbed mine for the LPG. It wasn't expensive but it is a single part.
Now wondering if I've got the old one in the garage. :-\
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Been there before and did a similar "bodge" which lasted until I could fix properly albeit you will be without any incar heating.
Remove both quick fit pipes from the metal pipes that go through bulkhead in engine bay.Cut a 100mm piece of copper pipe ensuring both ends are square and free from any burrs.Bit of universal lubrication and push the copper pipe into each quick fit end as far as they will go.Fit a cable tie on each end of the heater rubber pipe just behind the bulk of the connector so you then have something to connect a couple more cable ties to bridge between ech pipe in effect pulling the two pipes onto the copper tube so it doesnt pull out.
Top up with coolant and you have succesfully bypassed the heater matrix.Plenty of warm clothes and even a blanket on your knees and you should be fine and water tight,added bonus if you have heated seats that function.
I drove my old Elite for 2 months through January and February several years ago with the exact bodge and it was fine until I could eventually spare the time to fix both pipes and the split heater matrix.
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Forgot to add that copper tube should be 15mm.
Dont leave it any longer that necessary as copper will react with coolant so you might be able to get a rigid plastic pipe of 15mm which will surfice.
Years ago I thing it was a standard part from most factors called a tube repair or similar,so you might be able to source something .I just had a bit of copper pipe to hand and it worked
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Been there before and did a similar "bodge" which lasted until I could fix properly albeit you will be without any incar heating.
Remove both quick fit pipes from the metal pipes that go through bulkhead in engine bay.Cut a 100mm piece of copper pipe ensuring both ends are square and free from any burrs.Bit of universal lubrication and push the copper pipe into each quick fit end as far as they will go.Fit a cable tie on each end of the heater rubber pipe just behind the bulk of the connector so you then have something to connect a couple more cable ties to bridge between ech pipe in effect pulling the two pipes onto the copper tube so it doesnt pull out.
Top up with coolant and you have succesfully bypassed the heater matrix.Plenty of warm clothes and even a blanket on your knees and you should be fine and water tight,added bonus if you have heated seats that function.
I drove my old Elite for 2 months through January and February several years ago with the exact bodge and it was fine until I could eventually spare the time to fix both pipes and the split heater matrix.
If the heater matrix isn't leaking, why not just chop off the plastic end of the pipe, and push it onto the heater matrix pipe?
It s a 3.0V6 FL Elite, but I've no problem buying new parts from Vx as long as they're sensible money. I was waiting till the weather warms up a bit to sort out 'the matrix', but it may not be the cause after all, and sods law is that this happens in a week when I've no free time and 3 long road trips to make.
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My matrix was leaking but also couldnt get the pipes to reseal so it was my short term solution as had no heater anyway.
Sorry if I miss read but thought you had similar heater matrix issues.
If its just the quick fit bit that wont seal properly cut it off and refit with a jubilee hose clip should seal
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My matrix was leaking but also couldnt get the pipes to reseal so it was my short term solution as had no heater anyway.
Sorry if I miss read but thought you had similar heater matrix issues.
If its just the quick fit bit that wont seal properly cut it off and refit with a jubilee hose clip should seal
And if does, you can consider it both a permanent repair and an improvement if you ever have to work on the heater.
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Ok, 5PM, lets see what I can f*ck up before it gets too dark.
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One of these as opposed to a Jubilee would make it permanent :)
(http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/ItemImages/Large/PYC102110.jpg)
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One of these as opposed to a Jubilee would make it permanent :)
(http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/ItemImages/Large/PYC102110.jpg)
Not for me. Can't stand them. But they do fit the bin quite well.
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FWIW the heater pipes on a W124 Mercedes are a rubber pipe fitting over the metal pipe, admittedly with a "swollen" section... then held with a jubilee clip. Its not an unusual way to fit heater pipes IME.
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FWIW the heater pipes on a W124 Mercedes are a rubber pipe fitting over the metal pipe, admittedly with a "swollen" section... then held with a jubilee clip. Its not an unusual way to fit heater pipes IME.
It's the (alleged/theoretical) superiority of the spring versus Jubilee clip that is in question. My opinion is that the spring clip's advantages are purely production oriented which all disappear once they are removed.
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Well - a surprisingly easy fix which will hopefully hold till I've got less time. However, if you see a Mica grey OB Elite steaming at the side of the A303/M3 tomorrow morning then you'll know who it is.
One of these as opposed to a Jubilee would make it permanent :)
(http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/ItemImages/Large/PYC102110.jpg)
I normally hate those fekking things. Without the correct tool they can be a real git to fit and remove. However, in this instance they probably would have made things easier because getting to the screw on a jubilee clamp on the heater matrix pipework is a bit of a git - the access angles are all wrong.