Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: GastronomicKleptomaniac on 27 March 2016, 09:06:03
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Trying to get in to do the cam cover gaskets and the battery is flat as can be. Jacked front end but seems no way to manually pull the bonnet cable?
Understand I can connect a charger to starter motor positive and an earth - will a trickle charger work? Also have old battery on charge to try jump leads... any other suggestions chaps?
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Key in door and unlock. When key meets resistance, force it past and door should unlock but doorpin may not pop up
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Tried that first - key is now in two pieces!
Currently have undone the positive starter connectionand connected to spare battery, earth lead to engine block...
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Success! Removed starter positive connection, cleaned ut up with emery cloth, connected spare battery via jump lead.
Earthed through bellhousing bolt, gave it a minute and then got straight in.
Now to replace the key... :'(
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Congratulations! That prospect has always worried me. I have tried forcing the key on my 2003 3.2, but never succeeded in opening the door. Moral is never leave the car locked for too long.
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Success! Removed starter positive connection, cleaned ut up with emery cloth, connected spare battery via jump lead.
Earthed through bellhousing bolt, gave it a minute and then got straight in.
Now to replace the key... :'(
Roadside method to achieve the same thing: Wrap one of the lockoutkit tools(or a metal coathanger) in insulating tape, leaving a small amount of bare metal at each end. Bend the tool so that it reaches the starter stud. Connect the positive lead of your booster to the tool, and the negative to a decent earth on the car. Get the customer to turn the booster on and then unlock the car using the remote and open the door - you don't have enough hands to do all these simultaneously. Turn the booster off, crawl out from under the car and jumpstart as normal. Many car door locks are seized solid as they're rarely used, and only having one is a reduces your chances of getting in!
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Success! Removed starter positive connection, cleaned ut up with emery cloth, connected spare battery via jump lead.
Earthed through bellhousing bolt, gave it a minute and then got straight in.
Now to replace the key... :'(
Roadside method to achieve the same thing: Wrap one of the lockoutkit tools(or a metal coathanger) in insulating tape, leaving a small amount of bare metal at each end. Bend the tool so that it reaches the starter stud. Connect the positive lead of your booster to the tool, and the negative to a decent earth on the car. Get the customer to turn the booster on and then unlock the car using the remote and open the door - you don't have enough hands to do all these simultaneously. Turn the booster off, crawl out from under the car and jumpstart as normal. Many car door locks are seized solid as they're rarely used, and only having one is a reduces your chances of getting in!
Thanks Nick. That sounds simpler and safer. I am sure one day that tip will come in handy.
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Success! Removed starter positive connection, cleaned ut up with emery cloth, connected spare battery via jump lead.
Earthed through bellhousing bolt, gave it a minute and then got straight in.
Now to replace the key... :'(
Roadside method to achieve the same thing: Wrap one of the lockoutkit tools(or a metal coathanger) in insulating tape, leaving a small amount of bare metal at each end. Bend the tool so that it reaches the starter stud. Connect the positive lead of your booster to the tool, and the negative to a decent earth on the car. Get the customer to turn the booster on and then unlock the car using the remote and open the door - you don't have enough hands to do all these simultaneously. Turn the booster off, crawl out from under the car and jumpstart as normal. Many car door locks are seized solid as they're rarely used, and only having one is a reduces your chances of getting in!
Or you could use a welding rod and do a bit of patching up while you down there. ;D
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Genius idea that Nick!
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Just use & lube the locks every now & then ::) ::)
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Just use & lube the locks every now & then ::) ::)
Or use the key in the lock now and again.
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Just use & lube the locks every now & then ::) ::)
Or use the key in the lock now and again.
That's probably enough, as you should be very careful what you lubricate a lock with. Grease or oil attracts dirt which quickly becomes grinding paste, gets very sticky and makes the key dirty. Graphite powder is the traditional thing, although I wonder if modern dry teflon lubricant is a good replacement.
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Just use & lube the locks every now & then ::) ::)
Or use the key in the lock now and again.
That's probably enough, as you should be very careful what you lubricate a lock with. Grease or oil attracts dirt which quickly becomes grinding paste, gets very sticky and makes the key dirty. Graphite powder is the traditional thing, although I wonder if modern dry teflon lubricant is a good replacement.
While I can agree with the use of graphite, all locks I've ever opened have had grease of some kind in there already .... presumably factory fitted
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I've just bought an aerosol of WD40 dry (PTFE) lubricant from Wickes and after reading this thread, I'll give it a try on my lock, because I know it was very stiff the last time I had to use the key, but didn't want to use oil on it.
I think it might be best to spray the key and lubricate the lock that way rather than a full-bodied spray into the lock - yes?
Ron.
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I've just bought an aerosol of WD40 dry (PTFE) lubricant from Wickes and after reading this thread, I'll give it a try on my lock, because I know it was very stiff the last time I had to use the key, but didn't want to use oil on it.
I think it might be best to spray the key and lubricate the lock that way rather than a full-bodied spray into the lock - yes?
Ron.
I'd poke the straw into the lock & blast it :y
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I've just bought an aerosol of WD40 dry (PTFE) lubricant from Wickes and after reading this thread, I'll give it a try on my lock, because I know it was very stiff the last time I had to use the key, but didn't want to use oil on it.
I think it might be best to spray the key and lubricate the lock that way rather than a full-bodied spray into the lock - yes?
Ron.
Start working it with the key, as you say I would use some W40 on the Key blade and and a tad in the Lock barrel. When you gently slowly move the key in the lock you may see a very slight movement on the door pin, if it does thats normally an indication that its the right key.
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I have owned many Omegas, I currently own six. All bar one open easily turning key in keyhole. The odd one out is the 2003 ex-police car. I bought that 3 years old, and it came with three keys. I have just tried all three keys, waggling them, exerting all the force I could without pliers, no joy.
Are police cars specially secure? Did lock design change in 2003? Is so, why?
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I have owned many Omegas, I currently own six. All bar one open easily turning key in keyhole. The odd one out is the 2003 ex-police car. I bought that 3 years old, and it came with three keys. I have just tried all three keys, waggling them, exerting all the force I could without pliers, no joy.
Are police cars specially secure? Did lock design change in 2003? Is so, why?
When I had a Carlton with different keys for different locks I went to the scrap yard, got a few door locks, took them apart & rebuilt one to suit my ignition key ..... that was in the days before remote locking :y
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I have owned many Omegas, I currently own six. All bar one open easily turning key in keyhole. The odd one out is the 2003 ex-police car. I bought that 3 years old, and it came with three keys. I have just tried all three keys, waggling them, exerting all the force I could without pliers, no joy.
Are police cars specially secure? Did lock design change in 2003? Is so, why?
The locks and Keys on Plods should be the same as standard.
Some Forces did mess about with security on the doors / boot, Ive seen some with additional metal protection over the door pins, others where the rear child lock was permanently activated, additional buttons and or relays fitted that need to be activated to open the boot, one that wouldn't unlock from a closed dead lock. :-\
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Trying to get in to do the cam cover gaskets and the battery is flat as can be. Jacked front end but seems no way to manually pull the bonnet cable?
Understand I can connect a charger to starter motor positive and an earth - will a trickle charger work? Also have old battery on charge to try jump leads... any other suggestions chaps?
Is the car we are talking about your ex-plod car?
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Trying to get in to do the cam cover gaskets and the battery is flat as can be. Jacked front end but seems no way to manually pull the bonnet cable?
Understand I can connect a charger to starter motor positive and an earth - will a trickle charger work? Also have old battery on charge to try jump leads... any other suggestions chaps?
Is the car we are talking about your ex-plod car?
I ask because it has occured to me that over Easter my family was all here, with their Omegas. I moved both the 2001 2.6 and the 2002 2.2 with my 'spare' keys, both without fobs, in both cases turning keys in locks (and triggering alarms).
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Trying to get in to do the cam cover gaskets and the battery is flat as can be. Jacked front end but seems no way to manually pull the bonnet cable?
Understand I can connect a charger to starter motor positive and an earth - will a trickle charger work? Also have old battery on charge to try jump leads... any other suggestions chaps?
Is the car we are talking about your ex-plod car?
I ask because it has occured to me that over Easter my family was all here, with their Omegas. I moved both the 2001 2.6 and the 2002 2.2 with my 'spare' keys, both without fobs, in both cases turning keys in locks (and triggering alarms).
He's in now Terry, but has now lost the Transponder Chip from the key, so done think the car is going anywhere.
Theres another thread going on in Electrical Section. ;)
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Trying to get in to do the cam cover gaskets and the battery is flat as can be. Jacked front end but seems no way to manually pull the bonnet cable?
Understand I can connect a charger to starter motor positive and an earth - will a trickle charger work? Also have old battery on charge to try jump leads... any other suggestions chaps?
Is the car we are talking about your ex-plod car?
I ask because it has occured to me that over Easter my family was all here, with their Omegas. I moved both the 2001 2.6 and the 2002 2.2 with my 'spare' keys, both without fobs, in both cases turning keys in locks (and triggering alarms).
He's in now Terry, but has now lost the Transponder Chip from the key, so done think the car is going anywhere.
Theres another thread going on in Electrical Section. ;)
Thanks. Am following both threads with interest. My confusion is I have spent 10 years believing that opening an Omega door with key in lock needs great force, and finding it to be so on my 2003 police special, I have found next 20 or so Omegas purchased easily openable with key in lock. I had presumed it was a Vauxhall manufacuring change. It now looks like a bit of police mischief.