Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Discussion Area => Topic started by: Crazycarzowner on 03 May 2016, 16:24:17
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Well I never found the electrical fault on my Disco and having being somewhat disabled by my glass-back and being off work I thought 'Sod it, I'll get an auto-electrician in'. Got details for one who advertised local, had some good reviews & lives literally 3 miles away from me and gave him a call. Booked him for last Tuesday afternoon..........never showed. Rang him at 6pm and he said he was stuck in traffic??? (why could he not just contact me to say he either he'd be late or he couldn't make it. Anyway I thought I'd give him benefit of doubt & re-booked him for last Friday and he said (Quote) "I'll make it my first job" Friday morning came...........and went........NO electrician!!!!!!! GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR!!!
Why is it there are no reliable workmen around these days???
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It's everywhere, when looking to get my driveway extended I must have rung 20-30 companies. Some never bothered to pick up the phone, most that did gave crazy prices. I booked around 12 companies to come visit and quote me, about 4 turned up. ::) >:(
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Whats the electrical fault?
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Its on the Discovery TMF, I think I posted it on here a while back. There are all sorts of weird things happening. The interior lights stay on and will not extinguish unless you turn them to the permanent OFF position i.e. they don't do the auto on when you open the door or blip the alarm and turn off 30 seconds later, also the ignition light on the barrel is constantly on.
Before I ooops-up me back I checked -
The door switches and replaced them all work fine. chased the wiring through the doors & looked for chaffing, all ok
Relays, also fine.
Then asked the Landie forum for advise, that pointed me towards the Multi-Function Unit which controls that specific circuit. That works fine, got a replacement from a scrapper (which worked fine before I removed it from rotting car) swapped it out, still fault occurs.
Checked the fuses, again ok.
Then even more strange, when I pulled the radio fuse, a 10 amp one, which does radio/ cig lighter / auxillary lights, the radio STILL worked????
Got the RAVE CD which is the electrical wiring charts for the D1, chased the wiring to where they are spliced/joined and couldn't find any visual faults.
Then did me back in, called it quits and would willingly pay someone to find the fault, if anyone can be ar$ed ::) ::) ::)
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Whats the electrical fault?
It's a land Rover
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Whats the electrical fault?
It's a land Rover
True ::)
Even if I remove the bulbs and leave the battery connected, it kills it within an hour or so, I had a new one put on it last year and its completely killed it, it won't charge now :'( :'( so had to get another new one
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you can try this guy but it may be a bit far for him but he is mobile and he rewired an american chevy truck for me his name is Mark Butler 07803900058 is a good guy and if he wont come out that far may be able to point you in the right direction worth the phone call :y
Terry
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Join up to northants 4x4,you will have to post 3 times in newbie section before you can access forum and ask on there,im pretty sure you will get the right answer for faults,there is a lot of members clued up on the disco faults. :y
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Cheers for that b4ndit, but I think Chester to here will be at least 100 miles round trip for him.
To be honest, after me crawling around under the dash and looking aimlessly at wires :D :D :D (I can follow the path, test wires change bulbs etc.) I'm gonna try to get a Pro to sort it. I hold my hands up and will confess that I'm no good at sparking. :(
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Might be a long shot, but something rings a bell with your fault and the headlight switch....?
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Cheers for that b4ndit, but I think Chester to here will be at least 100 miles round trip for him.
To be honest, after me crawling around under the dash and looking aimlessly at wires :D :D :D (I can follow the path, test wires change bulbs etc.) I'm gonna try to get a Pro to sort it. I hold my hands up and will confess that I'm no good at sparking. :(
no problem just a thought :)
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I don't know what model you have but I had strange electrical problems due to fusible links in the engine bay,Google is your friend,behind the battery running up to the bulkhead,just solder that breaks connections and causes weird problems
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minifreek - thanks but headlight switch swapped for another (same one I
robbed acquired the MFU from) same result :-(
hoody - its a V8 Discovery 1. Fusible links checked all appear ::) in order. :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'(
I now (hopefully) have an Auto-electrician attending in the morning, fingers crossed!!!
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Well, good news & bad news.
Electrician has been, tested all circuits and has found the cause of the problem. Bad news is its the alarm ECU thats FUBARed :'( :'( :'(
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try this guy Graham Bell very good and may be able to repair yours Call us: 01244 813 321
gbellcars@hotmail.com :y
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Right.
been talking to a friend who owns disco and repairs too.
Check for corrosion, especially in the engine bay fuse/ecu box, the boxes aren't water tight, also the feed cables near bulkhead, and the sunroofs leak and dump water on a fuse box(internal) I think he said.
Ere he a bit far away, lives in Morayshire.
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Cheers chaps however fault found.......Alarm ECU :'(
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Cheers chaps however fault found.......Alarm ECU :'(
You don't expect people to actually read replies before posting?
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Cheers chaps however fault found.......Alarm ECU :'(
No chance of any of the wires going to it are broken/corroded ? :-\ or can it be disabled? :-\
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Cheers chaps however fault found.......Alarm ECU :'(
No chance of any of the wires going to it are broken/corroded ? :-\ or can it be disabled? :-\
The spark was very good actually, tested each circuit which the alarm covers and simulated locking & unlocking, arm & disarm, with each pin, but when plugged into the ECU they wouldn't work. He was here ages to be fair trying to sort it out but everything he did suggested it was the alarm ECU.
He said if I could find one the same from a scrapper & resynch the fobs to it, it will work or he could rip it out and fit a new alarm & immobiliser (with working power sounder) for between £150 - £200 depending on spec / features that I wanted.
So I dunno :-\ :-\ :-\ Question is do I get a second hand one, at least 16yrs old and risk it going the same way or developing other unknown faults? or get a completely new unit, fully functional with everything working & spend £200ish.
Having already invested a few quid in it & wanting it to WORK PROPERLY ::) (I know its a Land Rover) I'm tempted to get a new unit. :-\
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Cheers chaps however fault found.......Alarm ECU :'(
No chance of any of the wires going to it are broken/corroded ? :-\ or can it be disabled? :-\
The spark was very good actually, tested each circuit which the alarm covers and simulated locking & unlocking, arm & disarm, with each pin, but when plugged into the ECU they wouldn't work. He was here ages to be fair trying to sort it out but everything he did suggested it was the alarm ECU.
He said if I could find one the same from a scrapper & resynch the fobs to it, it will work or he could rip it out and fit a new alarm & immobiliser (with working power sounder) for between £150 - £200 depending on spec / features that I wanted.
So I dunno :-\ :-\ :-\ Question is do I get a second hand one, at least 16yrs old and risk it going the same way or developing other unknown faults? or get a completely new unit, fully functional with everything working & spend £200ish.
Having already invested a few quid in it & wanting it to WORK PROPERLY ::) (I know its a Land Rover) I'm tempted to get a new unit. :-\
Especially if he fits it, so being responsible, as it were, for curing the fault. :y
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He said if I could find one the same from a scrapper & resynch the fobs to it, it will work or he could rip it out and fit a new alarm & immobiliser (with working power sounder) for between £150 - £200 depending on spec / features that I wanted.
So I dunno :-\ :-\ :-\ Question is do I get a second hand one, at least 16yrs old and risk it going the same way or developing other unknown faults? or get a completely new unit, fully functional with everything working & spend £200ish.
Having already invested a few quid in it & wanting it to WORK PROPERLY ::) (I know its a Land Rover) I'm tempted to get a new unit. :-\
I wouldn't be tempted; it's not even a question. I'd have the new one everytime. As you've implied, a 16 year-old unit is just as likely to be used-up as just used.
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I would go for new system,the immobliser side can also play up at anytime,causing starting issues etc,although you can get the spider bypass its better to have a decent alarm/immobiliser/tracking system. More so these days with the amount off land rovers being stolen.
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So I dunno :-\ :-\ :-\ Question is do I get a second hand one, at least 16yrs old and risk it going the same way or developing other unknown faults? or get a completely new unit, fully functional with everything working & spend £200ish.
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I'd have thought that adding AN Other alarm would be a waste of money ..... no one takes any notice of alarms .......
IMHO an immobiliser would be money better spent