Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Bojan on 10 May 2016, 10:18:54
-
I'm struggling to find a solution about the LSD for my MV6.
They are really rare, and when they do come up, price is ususally over 300€.
This wouldn't be so bad if they weren't friction plate type -> as this are 15+ years old units, they could be badly worn out.
So, could a LSD from some other car be fitted?
Perhaps there is some 'hack' for using LSD (or at least the internatal, keeping my CW&P) from another car make.
I'm affraid that in the end, I will get an LSD from a company named 'Lincoln electrics' :D
-
No doubt anyone who has an LSD fitted will cry great confidence and pleasure about how brilliant it is, however, I posted an article a while ago on here. A group of automotive engineers got hold of an old Omega, which had done about 70k (miles) and the 'limited slip' side of things was practically worn out, and showing negligible difference between a standard diff.
A refurbished/rebuilt will cost many many hundreds, there are a couple of people on here who can/will do it. That price is actually very good, as the parts to do it alone cost plenty.
As you say, another LSD off something else would seem to be the answer, the final drive ratio being the critical figure, of course. Aside from suggesting something like a Monaro diff (no idea how compatible these are) that's me out of knowledge :)
-
I'm struggling to find a solution about the LSD for my MV6.
They are really rare, and when they do come up, price is ususally over 300€.
This wouldn't be so bad if they weren't friction plate type -> as this are 15+ years old units, they could be badly worn out.
So, could a LSD from some other car be fitted?
Perhaps there is some 'hack' for using LSD (or at least the internatal, keeping my CW&P) from another car make.
I'm affraid that in the end, I will get an LSD from a company named 'Lincoln electrics' :D
I've never driven one, but does it actually make any useful difference in day to day driving if your not a Police pursuit driver?
-
I'm struggling to find a solution about the LSD for my MV6.
They are really rare, and when they do come up, price is ususally over 300€.
This wouldn't be so bad if they weren't friction plate type -> as this are 15+ years old units, they could be badly worn out.
So, could a LSD from some other car be fitted?
Perhaps there is some 'hack' for using LSD (or at least the internatal, keeping my CW&P) from another car make.
I'm affraid that in the end, I will get an LSD from a company named 'Lincoln electrics' :D
I've never driven one, but does it actually make any useful difference in day to day driving if your not a Police pursuit driver?
Not on a heavy, low powered, automatic road car. And road LSDs don't actually lock-up very much, so they're not much good for track cars. And as mentioned, they tend to wear out quite quickly so they don't lock at all.
The LSD in my Capri was really only good for smoky sideways exits until changing into second gear. And it didn't do that on the stock 2.8 engine. Fun, but not much actual use ;D
-
I'm struggling to find a solution about the LSD for my MV6.
They are really rare, and when they do come up, price is ususally over 300€.
This wouldn't be so bad if they weren't friction plate type -> as this are 15+ years old units, they could be badly worn out.
So, could a LSD from some other car be fitted?
Perhaps there is some 'hack' for using LSD (or at least the internatal, keeping my CW&P) from another car make.
I'm affraid that in the end, I will get an LSD from a company named 'Lincoln electrics' :D
I've never driven one, but does it actually make any useful difference in day to day driving if your not a Police pursuit driver?
As most know LSD's were only ever fitted to Police Omegas in the UK, they were fitted to increase power delivery to the rear wheels in various road conditions , wet, snow, ice etc, rather than aid sideways opposite locking around a corner.
Ive driven quiet a few Omegas now with LSD, both Manual and Auto, and they do do what its says on the tin, the Autos can be a bit daunting when it kicks in, but general day to day driving you wont know its fitted. Its got me out of trouble a few time in the hilly parts of Epping Forest when its covered in snow or ice, not suggesting its as good as a 4x4 but certainly has advantages over a normal diff. ;)
-
I'm struggling to find a solution about the LSD for my MV6.
They are really rare, and when they do come up, price is ususally over 300€.
This wouldn't be so bad if they weren't friction plate type -> as this are 15+ years old units, they could be badly worn out.
So, could a LSD from some other car be fitted?
Perhaps there is some 'hack' for using LSD (or at least the internatal, keeping my CW&P) from another car make.
I'm affraid that in the end, I will get an LSD from a company named 'Lincoln electrics' :D
300 euros sounds about right, the ones Ive sold (known workers from Ex Police) were around the £245 mark, also as you say very rare these days. if maintained correctly and not abused (Drifting ::)) they should last well into the 100's of K's, but as with anything second hand your always going to get one persons views as 'its working as it should' vs another ones view of 'no, its furbed'.
Another thing to take into account is the actual correct diff ratio for the correct Engine / Gearbox type, ignore this and you may end up over revving at cruising speeds, or under revving and unable to deliver engine torque at required speeds. End of the day horses for courses and the reason for fitting LSD.
-
Yes, 300€ would be a nice price if the LSD is in good condition.
But I don't think I would find one like that :( :(
Really, when driving moderately, and fast driving and cornering at higher speeds, you can't really see any dissadvantages of the open diff.
Only while taking the sharp turn (on lower speeds, of course) when you press it, sometimes you get the dreaded inner wheel spin (instead of controlable back slide) -> I really hate this.
Also, bad surfaces (gravel, grass, snow, wet tarmac) - there is quite a lot of wheel spin.
I hate the fact that I can't be sure will it start spining the inner wheel, or the back will start to slide when I boot it (I want it to drift when pressed enough).
I'm affraid that if i weld the diff, it will be hard to use it as normal car (understeer in corners when driving like a normal person is my biggest worry).
To put it short -> I don't want to make it a 'drift car', but want it to be 'driftable'.
-
My Peugeot 505 GTI family estate came with one as standard, and it was useful on ice and snow. I have owned many (8?) ex-police Senators, but none came with LSDs, nor did my 2 ex-police Omegas. I suffered 2 whiny high mileage diffs on Senators, which I replaced.
I have the impression that the ABS system on later Omegas is supposed to brake a spinning rear wheel to improve traction on slippery roads, but have never noticed it. Do other members enjoy it?
-
I have seen my TC cut in on numerous occasions on my V6 - and I mean 'seen', not 'felt' the only indication the car was helping me in any way was the little blinking light on the dash. Mine is the earlier most primitive 1-channel TC, later two channel, and even later using EBD and braking to keep power application on the road even smoother. However, I'm thoroughly impressed with my 'primitive' system. As basis for comparison yes, my TD's back end stepped out on more than once occasion. TDs weren't fitted with TC.
I personally like a slight occasional 'chirrup' from the back end when really pushing it in a tight bend, telling me a polite 'now, now, stop being naughty, behave.'
Now whether the conclusion to be drawn here is when you have TC there's no 'need' for a LSD, or that this proves that LSDs are useful things and combined with a good TC system only better, I don't know.
-
Mine really came into it's own on snow/ice, and together with unobtrusive TC/ABS, made the car pretty much unstoppable in even the crappiest conditions 8)
-
Must admit I prefer the old Abs to the newer sort
With the old 3 channel type, if you had wheel spin / abs kicking in, you could feather the throttle a little but the new type tends to retard the ignition first which is a bitch if your trying to get out of a junction sharpish in greasy conditions and you have a slush box :-\
TBH, I also felt more in control with a peddle connected to a throttle body via a cable too :-\
I just like that mechanical feel I suppose ;)
Don't know what the newer 4 channel ABS / ESP is like with a manual box :-\
Well at least for another 7 days anyway :D :D
-
If youve got LSD fitted, you really need to switch the TC off to get the best from the diff. Its bad enough controling the backend when the diffs locked up, without the TC trying to tell you what to do as well. ::)
-
I have had a quote from a specialist rebuilder who is recommended by many classic car clubs to rebuild the LSD's on my two MV6's,complete job... drop it off and pick it up £600 a pop so not cheap,but it's wether you really need a LSD :-\
-
If youve got LSD fitted, you really need to switch the TC off to get the best from the diff. Its bad enough controling the backend when the diffs locked up, without the TC trying to tell you what to do as well. ::)
The MV6 allows a bit more slip before TC kicks in than the Elites, which was very useful on a couple of occasions but I found the TC too blunt, like someone had pulled the fuse for the fuel pump out so I just started driving it with the TC disengaged.I have had a quote from a specialist rebuilder who is recommended by many classic car clubs to rebuild the LSD's on my two MV6's,complete job... drop it off and pick it up £600 a pop so not cheap,but it's wether you really need a LSD :-\
I don`t think it`s worth it on a £400 car unless you really want one.
-
TC on pre-facelift is a bit too rough, IMO. It does the job, but it just doesn't have the smoothnes as newer generations.
More important, elmost every time when it kicks in, my first impression is 'missfire' -> this really gives me the chills in that moment* , so I keep TC off all the time -> I don't need unnecessary stress.
* I'm paranoid about the car, and esspecially about the engine
-
As for TC -> £600 is a lot of money, but also a realistic price for this kind of work. Gearbox and diff parts are expensive, and there is usually no aftermarket parts (just OEM).
However, giving around £1000 (£300 for LSD + £600 for potentially needed overhaul) is too much for something that gives results that are only noticable in some occasions.
I had an idea about something that uses some elements of ESP -> additional brake calipers (electric probably), that brake the rear wheel when it starts spining much faster that the opposite rear one. It would be controled by it's own control unit, and would use ABS sensors.
-
Would some Quaife unit or semething similar fit into the casing?
Obviously, probalbe would need to make a ring that bolts on CW.
But if I found unit that has the same spline as omega shafts, and it is not to big for omega casing, that cuold work.
-
As for TC -> £600 is a lot of money, but also a realistic price for this kind of work. Gearbox and diff parts are expensive, and there is usually no aftermarket parts (just OEM).
However, giving around £1000 (£300 for LSD + £600 for potentially needed overhaul) is too much for something that gives results that are only noticable in some occasions.
I had an idea about something that uses some elements of ESP -> additional brake calipers (electric probably), that brake the rear wheel when it starts spining much faster that the opposite rear one. It would be controled by it's own control unit, and would use ABS sensors.
What you suggest is already done by the ABS on 2.6/3.2 powered cars :y
-
To put it short -> I don't want to make it a 'drift car', but want it to be 'driftable'.
I had an idea about something that uses some elements of ESP -> additional brake calipers (electric probably), that brake the rear wheel when it starts spining much faster that the opposite rear one. It would be controled by it's own control unit, and would use ABS sensors.
In one hand your talking about fitting LSD and making the car Driftable?, then on the other is to fit additional ESP to control the wheel spinning? the two dont really go hand in hand, what is it your actually trying to achieve.?
-
That wit 'ABS' was just an idea at one moment. But it wouldn't work as I would like.
Only reason I would like some sort of LSD is that I really hate when, while I go trough a tight bend and boot it, one wheel starts spining and another doesn't. And I want both wheel to spin in this situation.
-
I think, if I were desperate for a working LSD, I would probably be looking into modifying the subframe to fit a diff for which there is a well supported aftermarket LSD such as the Quaife available.
Production car LSDs are always designed for safety rather than maximum traction anyway, so their action is always relatively mild for a heavy car such as the Omega, and friction based diffs such as the Omega's LSD will probably be shot by now (or very soon will be if you are using them for drifting!).
Mind you, I think the Quaife is only really effective if there is "some" load on the inside wheel. If it unloads completely (i.e. is airborne) the diff will open.
Any option is expensive relative to the value of an Omega these days.
-
That wit 'ABS' was just an idea at one moment. But it wouldn't work as I would like.
Only reason I would like some sort of LSD is that I really hate when, while I go trough a tight bend and boot it, one wheel starts spining and another doesn't. And I want both wheel to spin in this situation.
In that case stick to the original plan, fit LSD and turn the TC off, but a word of warning heavy right foot with tight corners, when the LSD kicks in you will loose the back end. The Omega is not a light weight car that will bounce around corners, when the back end goes, it goes, and taking your foot of the loud peddle when your facing in the wrong direction doesn't help. :D
Best you polish up on your opposite lock skills and put some money aside for new tyres and replacement suspension in the near future. ;)
-
I do tight-cornering with some degree of back-slide (itentionally) most of the time. Counter-steer is a part of every day driving for me.
The problem is that it is not 100% predictable -> sometimes it just spins one (inner) wheel, while other holds traction -> in this case there is no back slide, just lot of noise.
I'm not affraid of the back-slide, I just want it to be achivable every time I wish.
In short: want to eliminate one-wheel spin on power-over.
2 Kevin wood - I have explored all this options in my head, and in the end, it allways comes to 'either leave the diff as it is, or weld it up'.
I'm sorry if I've made this topic a bit mess, not explaining clearly what I want.