Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Migv6 le Frog Fan on 16 September 2016, 18:35:27
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I took the Omega for four wheel alignment this morning. I was pretty pissed off with myself when I arrived, as I realised I had forgotten to bring the piece of paper with the WIM settings written on ,so I would probably get a "its in the green so its good enough" job.
Might have been best to cancel, but I had already had two aborted attempts at a different branch, due to all the staff being brain dead and compulsive liars.
Anyway, they did the job and I have the printout, but I don't really understand what Im looking at.
There are some figures on a red background and some on a green background.
Are these before & after figures ? :-\
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Assume so... Post it up ;)
Oh... And where did you go?
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Will take some pics of the printout tomorrow and post them up. :y
First two aborted attempts were at Europit Heybridge. I could rant all night about how utterly inept they were, but I wont.
Today, I went to their branch in Magdelene street. Colchester. Judgement is reserved until I get informed opinions on the setup, but I have a feeling it wont be great. We shall see.
Car seems to be driving reasonably ok at the moment, so I may leave it a while and then try somewhere else, after presenting them with details of the proper settings.
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The big ones (that they normally get wrong) are
thrust angle (difference between the rear toe each side) is 0'00. 0'01 isn't good enough, despite being "green", unless you have rear camber issues.
Front camber, 1'10, or up to 1'20 if an aggressive driver. Cross camber being minimal.
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Front end
Camber -1.10 / -1.15
Castor 5 degree's
Toe in 0 degree 05
Move the subframe to adjust castor.
Rear end
Rear camber 1 degree 30
Toe in 0 degree 05
Thrust angle MUST be zero.
As TuBy says, front camber is between 1'10 and 1'20.
Mines smack on 1'15 and with front wishbone polys and new track rod ends :-[ it turns in rather nice ;)
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The figures don't look close to those given by you fellas. ::)
If the figures aren't readable, I can try and do some better pics, or just type them up.
(http://i1238.photobucket.com/albums/ff500/Albs59/DSCF1990_zpsxng5fxbs.jpg) (http://s1238.photobucket.com/user/Albs59/media/DSCF1990_zpsxng5fxbs.jpg.html)
(http://i1238.photobucket.com/albums/ff500/Albs59/DSCF1989_zpshn8wpcsk.jpg) (http://s1238.photobucket.com/user/Albs59/media/DSCF1989_zpshn8wpcsk.jpg.html)
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That doesn't prove they've adjusted anything :-\
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No ? Should I have been given a different / additional printout ? I did see them adjust the front & rear track rods, but I didn't see them adjust the camber. :-\
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Second page should have lots of green boxes with single bold numbers confirming a difference to the red boxes on the first page :-\
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Ah, I see. I will give them a call next week and say what excuses they have. ::)
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What did they charge you for doing what they did...if its not rude to ask :y
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£50. Took about 45 minutes.
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A full proper one is in the region of £150...so realy they did nothing worth paying for to your car...needs to be done properly front and rear by someone like w.i.m..then the print out will be totally different and the job would be done spot on and the car would be correct.. :y
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A full proper one is in the region of £150...so realy they did nothing worth paying for to your car...needs to be done properly front and rear by someone like w.i.m..then the print out will be totally different and the job would be done spot on and the car would be correct.. :y
Not necessarily. Many places charge according to what adjustments they have to make. ;)
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A full proper one is in the region of £150...so realy they did nothing worth paying for to your car...needs to be done properly front and rear by someone like w.i.m..then the print out will be totally different and the job would be done spot on and the car would be correct.. :y
Not necessarily. Many places charge according to what adjustments they have to make. ;)
Exactly. Front and rear toe adjustment on mine was £65. That was after fitting new wishbones and track rods, so the front was bound to be miles out. I had replaced the subframe bushes since the last alignment.The mechanic just got on with it, including freeing off the rear track rod. Took about 30minutes on a Sunday morning.
Front camber adjustment would have cost more but it's only two bolts per side, and reading the number off the machine. Mine have had about 15minutes more negative than is suggested, but it's been like that for four and a half years and drives well. If that means I only get 25 rather than 26 thousand miles from the front tyres, then so be it. This is the measurement you should discuss with the man doing the work, as the necessary setting is towards one end of a massive tolerance and good enough isn't. Fortunately, it's easy to measure accurately with very simple equipment, so you can get it very close before doing anything else.
Castor is the measurement you should really consider, as adjusting it requires moving the subframe. It's a job that is unlikely to be profitable. I wonder how often it is actually necessary?
This is not a complicated or difficult job. It just requires some thought and care in making accurate adjustments.
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As above, it's just one of those jobs which involves a brain and an eye for detail, not 'undo the black box, then plug a new black box in' which many of you modern mechanics spend their days doing.
Mine was £50 and was a complete front and back job, they changed everything, and were happy for me to come, look at the settings, and watch the screen readouts change as he undid/tightened various threaded bits. :)
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One thing the muppet doing the job MUST do is if he has used a gas torch on any of the joints, he MUST let the joint cool down for a good 20 minutes before adjusting anything.
Due metal expanding with heat, there will be a big difference between hot and cold readings ;)
Needless to say in most cases and with time meaning money and all that shite, the muppet will probably not tell you this >:(
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In six trips to WIM, the subframe was only moved once... that was first time it went in...
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This was the style of my print out from wim for my estate. Don't know if it's good, bad or otherwise. :-\ Car didn't drive any better or worse for taking it there but I had to have it checked as I had just replaced a lot of the suspension components, including wishbones/front struts/front and rear springs etc. I'd only set the camber by eye so I needed it set correctly. :)
(http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac142/Alan-Hearn/Random%20Pics/238d2890-222f-4193-9bfc-d285e94be50c_zps4dbynqvy.jpg) (http://s894.photobucket.com/user/Alan-Hearn/media/Random%20Pics/238d2890-222f-4193-9bfc-d285e94be50c_zps4dbynqvy.jpg.html)
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Oh dear my mate was ripped off at the price he paid then 8)
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Oh dear my mate was ripped off at the price he paid then 8)
Maybe not if all the settings were wildly out and/or adjusters were seized. ;)
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That would explain it all then,as he said the guy that did his struggled a long time with seized adjustent on the rear of his car,and they were way out,he told him that omegas were awfull to do as generally the rears would be seized..where as my very.very,good friend who did mine ..didnt have that much bother at all and also did it at a very very good price (mates rates)...So at least my friend did not get ripped off as first I thought so thats good. :D
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Can be cheaper to pay the labour on them fitting new rear track rods before set up, especially if they're fitting the tyres too :y