Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: New POD on 21 September 2016, 20:35:57
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Tell me it'll be fine !!!B :o
So Omegod (of this parish) frequents another car related forum where I saw an "Ideal" Mv6 for sale.
And he suggested in a private message that I might find this forum useful.
I've read pretty much everything that I can, but I'm having second thoughts about this particular car.
The guy that owns it is obviously very busy and has been moving house.
He needs to get it an MOT, but assuming it will pass, I was prepared to travel 4 hours on a train to either buy it or run away.
So In communication with owner I know the following
161K miles
Both heated seats work
Air con isn't blowing cold but the compressor is kicking in
He's looked through the service history but there is no evidence of the oil cooler being done, that's not to say it might not have done
There are receipts for services carried out in a level arch file that previous owner gave him when he bought it
There is a receipt stating the gearbox oil was checked for condition at 152k, no recommendation to change but then at 158k there is a receipt for gearbox oil & filter change (June 2015, car has now done 161k)
- Timing Belt & Water Pump was also done at 152k
- Other work carried out in the last 2 years includes new battery, new radiator, replacement windscreen,, 4 tyres, front anti-roll bar end links, water heater valve replaced, exhaust system replaced.
There is a dent in one door (Omegod has a door in the correct colour, so no real issue)
It has an Irmscher front grille, finished in petrol blue, and No rust on any of the arches
I'm thinking my going off this particular car is a) It's rather miles away, b.) The air-con has thrown me. If it stopped working 12 mins after I got the car I'd live with it. c) I'm impatient. d) I'll likely put at least 15K on the miles every year if not more, so whilst high miles does not faze me, it will quickly go higher.
The price he wants for it is less than I've spent on repairs and servicing of the family fleet in the last month, so not exactly going to break the bank if it all goes tits up.
I've justified it to my long suffering wife, who gets chronic back pain in my mk4 astra (so called sports seats are crap)
So encourage me to hold on in there. No second hand car under a grand will be perfect, and it'll all be fine.
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Do it, you wont be disapointed :D
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15k a year? That's a decent amount on an already high mile car, if you are handy with the spanners and happy to spend fair bit of time tinkering and sorting things out, you would be ok. But if you will rely on Garages for the work, I'd personally advise against purchase
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Sounds like you know one end of a spanner from the other. ???
If so, regular servicing will easily see it do you a few years at 15k per year ;)
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Any used Omega will need money spent on it, especially if you're going to use it properly.
So buy as smart a car as you can find for £500, treat it to new shocks all round, plus the usual wishbones/joints, service it, fix the 'characteristic' oil leaks, and just drive it. There's nothing special about keeping one of these things.
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15k a year? That's a decent amount on an already high mile car, if you are handy with the spanners and happy to spend fair bit of time tinkering and sorting things out, you would be ok. But if you will rely on Garages for the work, I'd personally advise against purchase
I'm not sure what to make of that. I have some amateur experience of repairing cars, but as I get older, I realise that some things are worth paying others to fix. I don't automatically think "Oh, the car is only worth £600 and the repairs are £600, so I should get rid" My natural reaction to car repairs is "If I scrap it now I'll need to spend £1000 on a car today, so I might as well spend £1200 on fixing this one, if it gets me another year of motoring, even if it's only worth £500"
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Well, if the previous owner had the gearbox fluid changed, then it sounds like it's been better cared for than most and a lot of the regular failure items are on your list of recent work.
High mileage isn't really a worry on a V6 Omega. They will get to 200k with ease and 300k if well cared-for.
As said, though, by far the biggest issue is the condition overall against price. Corrosion around the wheel arches and the rear ends of the sills, and on the tailgate of estates are the first signs of decay.
But, you have the right attitude to maintaining a car. If you only ever pay out what it's worth on repairs you won't get far in any 2nd hand car. ;D At 15k a year, your biggest outlay by far will be fuel and a cheap Omega with 160k on the clock will soak up those miles more comfortably than it has any right to.
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At 15k a year, your biggest outlay by far will be fuel and a cheap Omega with 160k on the clock will soak up those miles more comfortably than it has any right to.
I have done some man maths on the fuel.
To get what I want i.e. comfortable petrol car with auto, cruise control, 5 seats and a big boot, there are a zillion options.
So I compared my Dad's recent purchase of a 1.3 petrol automatic focus estate, and estimated the cost per mile over the next 3 years.
Because of depreciation, if it achieved 100mpg, I'd still be cheaper per mile.
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Howdy Newpod, Good bunch on here and shed loads of experience with Omega's. I don't actually have the right door but it will be easy to get one and i'll help chuck it on for you.
There's a chance the car in question has been through someone here's hands so a pic if the seller didn't mind nay turn up some more history. It's a decent looking rust free saloon to me ,barring the door ,and talk of a folder full of history is encouraging.
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Y474UGW if that helps
Not sure how to put a picture on here. Off to bed.
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If you are doing 15K a year have a think on LPG, check availability near you and consider cost of conversion, either DIY or professional .. big difference in price ... but both are possibles. Omega V6 takes to LPG like a duck to water, and IMHO is the way to go :)
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Might be worth mentioning the area the car is located. May be a member could go and take a look at it and report back.
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Right, time to put some fuel in the fire...
It's a 3.2.
No Mot, expired on July 30th. Needed new centre and back boxes for last MoT, but has an outstanding advisory for an oil leak. Has yet to be presented this year.
161k sounds about right from previous history...
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If you are doing 15K a year have a think on LPG, check availability near you and consider cost of conversion, either DIY or professional .. big difference in price ... but both are possibles. Omega V6 takes to LPG like a duck to water, and IMHO is the way to go :)
Yep, my 3.2 is achieving a fuel cost of less than 12p per mile on LPG currently. That's less than my previous car (1.8 Laguna) was costing on fuel back on 2006 petrol prices. :o
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I still think as an every day car, and even at 15k a year it's perfectly doable. Especially if you scour ebay, for sale on here, and the like for various bargains; rather than buy it the day you need it/it breaks. A coil pack bought for twenty quid 'just in case', versus £100 helps to offset the fuel bills. :) I do about 6k a year, used every single day. Town driving mainly, and has ploughed through 6 hours motorway driving nearly non-stop, several hundred miles without missing a beat.
Also it's Petrol Blue, so what are you waiting for, the next ten you see in similar condition will be Star Ruddy Silver! :y
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If you are doing 15K a year have a think on LPG, check availability near you and consider cost of conversion, either DIY or professional .. big difference in price ... but both are possibles. Omega V6 takes to LPG like a duck to water, and IMHO is the way to go :)
Yep, my 3.2 is achieving a fuel cost of less than 12p per mile on LPG currently. That's less than my previous car (1.8 Laguna) was costing on fuel back on 2006 petrol prices. :o
Neither of mine are ::o. Manage a shade over 200 miles from last tank of gas, hence had to do a shed load of miles on petrol.
Its all the mongrels getting in my way.
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Tell me it'll be fine !!!B :o
Had one of mine for 13 or 14yrs now, paid £3199 for it. Its a bit tired, and the rust has taken hold. Tried looking for a replacement, and failed so far to find another marque/model that matches it with a £10k budget.
Read into that what you like :)
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....
He's looked through the service history but there is no evidence of the oil cooler being done, ....
My Omega is now long gone ..... I never did the oil cooler in the 10 yrs I had mine because it never needed doing ..... sold at 180k miles
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He's looked through the service history but there is no evidence of the oil cooler being done, ....
My Omega is now long gone ..... I never did the oil cooler in the 10 yrs I had mine because it never needed doing ..... sold at 180k miles
Yep, good coolant servicing, probably. Mine is fine at 198k and 13 years.
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If you are doing 15K a year have a think on LPG, check availability near you and consider cost of conversion, either DIY or professional .. big difference in price ... but both are possibles. Omega V6 takes to LPG like a duck to water, and IMHO is the way to go :)
Yep, my 3.2 is achieving a fuel cost of less than 12p per mile on LPG currently. That's less than my previous car (1.8 Laguna) was costing on fuel back on 2006 petrol prices. :o
Neither of mine are ::o. Manage a shade over 200 miles from last tank of gas, hence had to do a shed load of miles on petrol.
Its all the mongrels getting in my way.
Thats atrocious fuel useage, either need to leave office earlier or think about another job. Got 620 miles out of the VW tank, with range still saying 55 miles and no way near the red.
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One of my 3.2's has done 236.000 miles and still runs like a Rolex,remapped it seems a bit better on fuel,and still pulls like a train when given the beans.Cambelt history is an obvious and if you are piling on the miles that will come around a bit quicker.
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The problem with the 3.2, is its sh*t. The 3.0 engine is far, far better on fuel. The 3.2 offers no significant difference in performance to compensate for this appalling fuel use.
The drive by wire V6s also idle like a bag of spanners, the old valve setup on the 3.0 is far smoother.
Performance is good, not great, not amazing. Just good. A modern 6 pot diesel will make mince meat out of the 3.2, the long gearing really does not help. 8 speed auto diesels will easily keep pace.
I would never buy a 3.2 again, prefer a 3.0 auto or 2.5 manual. That said the 3.2 will be my last Omega, its days are numbered.
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Thank you all for the interesting opinions.
For some reason, I'm not too fussed about Fuel consumption*, and Unlike some other cars I have owned, there is clearly a reasonable amount of knowledge out there (here), should I need to tap into it.
In the event that It breaks down, we have a spare car (a mk1 mx5), which I can use to get to work, although it's not much good for taking 5 people and suitcases on a long journey. Wife's Bini is erm a 3 seater if I have to drive, but actually quite comfy in the back.
*I've estimated I'll spend an extra £1000 a year, but compare that to my peers who spend £350 a month to lease a merc diesel, I think that for a couple of years I want to scratch the V6 itch I've had since I had one as a hire car for work in 1995, (a V6 CD, that I managed to get to 9 mpg in the 12 miles between my house and the M58-cross country at 5 am. It eventually rose to 21 after a full week of use)
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He said "Encourage" Tunnie.. Not rip the car to bits that you have had in your family for donkeys years ::) ::)
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He said "Encourage" Tunnie.. Not rip the car to bits that you have had in your family for donkeys years ::) ::)
Only had 3.2 for about 4 years or so, just my views on it.
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The problem with the 3.2, is its sh*t. The 3.0 engine is far, far better on fuel. The 3.2 offers no significant difference in performance to compensate for this appalling fuel use.
The drive by wire V6s also idle like a bag of spanners, the old valve setup on the 3.0 is far smoother.
Performance is good, not great, not amazing. Just good. A modern 6 pot diesel will make mince meat out of the 3.2, the long gearing really does not help. 8 speed auto diesels will easily keep pace.
I would never buy a 3.2 again, prefer a 3.0 auto or 2.5 manual. That said the 3.2 will be my last Omega, its days are numbered.
One of my 3.2's has done 236.000 miles and still runs like a Rolex,remapped it seems a bit better on fuel,and still pulls like a train when given the beans. Cambelt history is an obvious and if you are piling on the miles that will come around a bit quicker.
Might the words I've marked in Bold be the problem and the solution ?
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Not really.
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Not really.
You seem fixated on fuel consumption, but remember, if you enjoy driving your Omega, this is not even a consideration. :y
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Not really.
You seem fixated on fuel consumption, but remember, if you enjoy driving your Omega, this is not even a consideration. :y
I think his 15k a year miles would make it a consideration :)
But he is buying, so buy 3.0. Just as fast, same to drive. But far better engine in so many ways.
I enjoy driving my 3.2, but their days are numbered now.
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Only one question...
Why haven't you bought it yet?
Don't worry about Tunnies gripes ;)
The Omega can easily see well over 250,000 miles, even driven hard. In fact higher mileage ones are a better buy as they've been kept in use, and don't respond well to neglect.
All Omegas suffer from:
Suspension wear
Heater Bypass Valve Failure
Camcover leaks
Coil/dis pack failure
Crankshaft Sensor
Steering idler wear
Central locking motors
Tyre wear from poor geometry
Typically these all occur between 80-150k, and every item is well documented and easily fixed.
Buy a car that's had the bulk of things sorted recently, but be realistic and expect to repeat them as you put miles on.
When I sold it at 285k, my ex police 3.2 manual was still on its original engine, oil cooler, gearbox and diff, and that was inspite of being written off three times and being used as a taxi.
Have owned 2.0 16v, 2.2, 2.6, 3x3.2, and imho the 3.2 is the pick. Easier to work on than the 2.5/3.0 due to less plumbing. Sure, a side effect of the dbw throttle is a slightly coarse idle, but that is also true of the 2.2, and only occurs because the ecu tweaks the fuelling to control it instead of the traditional ICV arrangement.
Buy that MV6 on visual condition, and don't look back :y
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34 000 posts and now after buying a nice new modern shinny car, you look back and start slagging the omega off.....Unreal ::)
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34 000 posts and now after buying a nice new modern shinny car, you look back and start slagging the omega off.....Unreal ::)
:-X
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34 000 posts and now after buying a nice new modern shinny car, you look back and start slagging the omega off.....Unreal ::)
Considering that plenty of those posts have been about how it doesn't make sense to buy newer when an Omega is so cheap to run :-X ::)
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34 000 posts and now after buying a nice new modern shinny car, you look back and start slagging the omega off.....Unreal ::)
Considering that plenty of those posts have been about how it doesn't make sense to buy newer when an Omega is so cheap to run :-X ::)
The pinical of suburban irony ;D
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Only one question...
Why haven't you bought it yet?
I am awaiting the owner MOTing it.
He is moving house, preparing his old house for rent and selling some surplus cars including a Triumph Toldeo, an Old 7 Series, a 2.2 Omega (much lower miles, but failed MOT on Emissions I think), an old Cherokee, and a 309 Diesel.
And giving away an knackered Escort Van
Unfortunately I don't think made him aware of my impatience.
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Fair dos :y
Remind him how much space he'll have once you've collected it...
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34 000 posts and now after buying a nice new modern shinny car, you look back and start slagging the omega off.....Unreal ::)
Look back at my posts over the years, I've always not liked the 3.2 as an engine and said nothing new.
Why do you think I never LPGd it, unlike the 2.2?
I was encouraging him to get a 3.0 instead, but I see you read past all that.
Unreal. ::)
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Hi!
Having owned various omegas (and carlton) for many years now, this is how I see it:
- Omega is no more complex, complicated to work on or more expensive to run than most of it's contemporaries (not to mention newer cars)
- corrosion is a very common enemy (especialy in hummid climate like UK), and usualy is what it gets it killed (mechanical things usually outlive the bodywork). If it has good bodywork, and not wrecked on a mechanical side, its allways worth keeping.
- usual weak spots (as others said): front WB bushes, ARB bushings anddroplinks, rear donut bushes (not very often), crapy handbrake, propshaft rubber discs, headlights fade to yellow and adjustment pins break, cabin heater breaks (nasty job to replace), HBV valve leaks, crankshaft ventilation blocks and causes oil leaks, camcover seals, dispacks break (usually after HBV failed, and leaked on it), crankshaft sensor fail (new needs cable re-routed), oilcooler breaks and oilcooler plate corredes (but can be avoided if antifreez is always in cooling system), Multiram vacuum stuff needs to be handled with care (not to brake it), some 2.6 have faulty valve seams, some 3.0 have faulty head gasket (leaks water outwards), exhaust manifold gaskets fail sometimes (and it is a hell to replace)
- biggest problem is, IMO, that many garages are not familiar with above -> usually generates wrong diagnosis, expensive repairs and unsolved problems - YOU NEED A GARAGE THAT KNOW ITS WAY AROUND THIS CAR
- also, V6 is a bit complex (compared to 4 pot engines, and some other V6 engines), if nothing else, then due to the amount of components installed on it. But, it's not a rocket science -> IMO, when working on it, there is no place for hastiness and hurry. Just take your time while working on the engine.
- IMO, when performing some work on the engine, it's best to do everything that is in that area and might need replacement in some near future (i.e. when you do something in the V-valley, best to do the thermostat,cooler,bridge,camcover seals,clean crankshaft vent -> kill many birds with one stone)
- timing belt - make sure it's done by somebody who is experienced with this.
- 4-speed auto gearbox is a dinosaur
- as it is a quite old car, parts are getting really cheap -> running costs are usually very low
- V6 is not easy on fuel, but, hey, if you want high MPG, dont buy V6 petrol -> I'm sure that when they designed the engine, consumption wasn't high on list of demands -> also, other similar engines are as thirsty as GM V6 (at least)
- generally, this cars are capable of high mileage, if taken good (and wise) care of
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So, buy it, have it checked by someone from this forum that services this cars, repair/replace what needs to be done, and enjoy many fast and comfortable miles.
15k a year is not much if its most on open road. You'll probably use it for years.
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34 000 posts and now after buying a nice new modern shinny car, you look back and start slagging the omega off.....Unreal ::)
Considering that plenty of those posts have been about how it doesn't make sense to buy newer when an Omega is so cheap to run :-X ::)
Until it gets to the point where it needs welding and a replacement clutch, out of reach of the average DIY'er ;)
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34 000 posts and now after buying a nice new modern shinny car, you look back and start slagging the omega off.....Unreal ::)
At what point have I said this about the Omega? The engine yes, but the car?
Should also make a point I still own and drive a 3.2 Omega, not that makes an difference to your statement. ::)
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34 000 posts and now after buying a nice new modern shinny car, you look back and start slagging the omega off.....Unreal ::)
Considering that plenty of those posts have been about how it doesn't make sense to buy newer when an Omega is so cheap to run :-X ::)
Until it gets to the point where it needs welding and a replacement clutch, out of reach of the average DIY'er ;)
Clutch is perfectly Diyable, welding less so, as for the rest of the suspension issues... had you done them when the components started to fail rather than waiting until they fell off, you would only have had the welding to worry about ::)
That said you were clearly trying to talk yourself into a newer car, which you now have, so it's all rather moot ;)
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The Omega can easily see well over 250,000 miles, even driven hard. In fact higher mileage ones are a better buy as they've been kept in use, and don't respond well to neglect.
I'd say they do best and last longest when driven hard (of course, not from stone cold).
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Don't care about all of the ins and outs of Omega ownership,I still like driving mine and at no time in 15 years of owning Omegas...I have never broken down and have never been been let down by the car. Conversely I have passed over the years hundreds of newer cars on the hard shoulder of various motorways etc So you pays your money and takes your choice and yes...before anyone reminds me that I have a low miler VXR8.....I'm not kidding when I say that I still prefer the Omegas and that the VXR8 hasn't been driven for nearly a month to date to prove that point. ::) :P
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That's a good review :y
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I do appreciate that some of us have to move on,mainly for practical reasons,and I can see that having a 15 year old car with old technology as opposed to a virtually new car with all the bells and whistles is a no brainer.But let's all remember that all those nice little new tech gizmos can fail with little or no warning and let's face it we can all park a car in a car park without parking assist....it's called driver involvement and who needs rain sensing wipers or having your lights being switched on for you when it starts getting dark ::) and collision avoidance...the list could become endless,come on fellas are you men or steering wheel attendants? fight back, and drive your up to date pussymobile as your every day driver and keep a 3.0 or a 3.2 Omega in your garage for those weekend run outs and dangle your kahunas out of the window that you have had to press the button to open yourselves ;D ;D BTW My case comes up next week at the local magistrates court :-X
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:D :y
It's going to come where me and Miss DBG get a 'something' (it'll still be in that £1-2k region, really not big money at all) we're thinking something like a Volvo C30 (rather than an Omega 'replacement' like an XF, etc.. instead get something totally different)
However, yes, the thing I always remind people of is that cars will break down, they do go wrong, but whenever my 'old 'unreliable' Omega goes wrong, it's an evening's fettling and often a text to a mate and a ten pound note, or I've already got on in as a spare I picked up ages ago. Anyone at work and it's hundreds and hundreds after the mechanic changed 'the thingy' and that's before you factor in the two, three hundred quid they're spending a month on finance. I don't want to steer this into a bangernomics vs brand new car thread, but I would still argue, if you've got a socket set and a passing willingness to work on cars, so long as you buy a half decent one in the first place, you can run an Omega as an every day car with no real issue.
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Mrs. KW was tempted by a C30 but ended up with another MX5. Say what you like about Volvos, they are well screwed together and don't rust. :y
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I do quite fancy one, however, I'm drawn to a 240 or maybe a 480, which isn't really in the right direction at all, supposed to be going for newer, not older!! But I do like them. :)
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I do quite fancy one, however, I'm drawn to a 240 or maybe a 480, which isn't really in the right direction at all, supposed to be going for newer, not older!! But I do like them. :)
My Dad had a 260 back in the 80's. Completely indestructible. ;D I remember he folded the boot of a Mk 3 Escrot in two once. Not a mark on the Volvo. He also hit a sign post in the ice. Bent the steel post over at about 45 degrees. Not a mark on the Volvo. The PRV V6 was a horrible engine, mind. That probably did for most of them. Thirsty and partial to a HGF every so often. The 4 pots were truly bomb proof, mind.
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I just want to live the Jonathan Creek dream :)
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Car sounds OK coming with a new MOT, £500 is a bit hot for me, but then add on the cost of the 4 hour rail journey plus cost of fuel to get it home and it is getting expensive. Where is the car?
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I do quite fancy one, however, I'm drawn to a 240 or maybe a 480, which isn't really in the right direction at all, supposed to be going for newer, not older!! But I do like them. :)
My Dad had a 260 back in the 80's. Completely indestructible. ;D I remember he folded the boot of a Mk 3 Escrot in two once. Not a mark on the Volvo. He also hit a sign post in the ice. Bent the steel post over at about 45 degrees. Not a mark on the Volvo. The PRV V6 was a horrible engine, mind. That probably did for most of them. Thirsty and partial to a HGF every so often. The 4 pots were truly bomb proof, mind.
I took one hard up the arse from an 850 back around 1990. My car was declared CAT C, the Volvo's frooking headlights still worked >:(
;D
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I agree with Tunnie (no, not over the VW thing :P) that the 3.0l is the pick of the engines. Marginally quicker and a damn sight more economical, whats not to like :D
Downside is, being older, its likely to have more miles, and have an older bodyshell :(
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Blimey, such angst. :D
Right then. Should be MOT'd tomorrow.
It will need retrofitting with cruise control and the air con will need a regas -here's hoping :-[
Bloke at work (in Derby) has offered to give me a lift as it's on his way home . Car is near Middlesbrough, and he lives in Tynemouth.
If it's really shit, I'll come back to Derby on the train, and pick up my astra.
If it's as described, I'll drive it home to miseryside, and then on Saturday drive it to Cardiff for a half marathon on Sunday.
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Fingers crossed :y
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Best of luck! :)
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It has an MOT, I have a lift on Thursday to go and buy. I have arranged insurance cover, and my wife is fully in agreement with the purchase. Although she is worried that the first trip in it is 220 miles eachway to Cardiff to do a half marathon.
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What could possibly go wrong... :D
Enjoy it :y
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Has anyone mentioned the need for a spare crank sensor yet ? ;D
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Has anyone mentioned the need for a spare crank sensor yet ? ;D
Should I keep one in the boot just in case, or replace the existing one, just in case ?
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They're messing... It will invariably fail at some point regardless of whether it has previously been changed.
Only buy genuine from a genuine vx dealer that you genuinely have to walk into. :y
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Has anyone mentioned the need for a spare crank sensor yet ? ;D
Should I keep one in the boot just in case, or replace the existing one, just in case ?
Omegas are no worse for crank sensor failure than any other car. If you're worried about it, then buy a new, genuine one from a dealer(this is true for all marques), fit it, and forget about it.
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It's mainly because it is sat baking from the day it's fitted. Personally if it's kicked/tie-wrapped out of the way, I'd say it'll last almost indefinitely. That said, even in its original position, being nearly glued to the exhaust manifold, they still often manage to last about ten years-plus, which isn't bad going. :)
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Sound advice, Nick.
Has anyone mentioned the need for a spare crank sensor yet ? ;D
Should I keep one in the boot just in case, or replace the existing one, just in case ?
Omegas are no worse for crank sensor failure than any other car. If you're worried about it, then buy a new, genuine one from a dealer(this is true for all marques), fit it, and forget about it.
Sound advice, Nick. Cars are designed to last 7 years; some have warranties this long. After that they are junk, main dealers don't want them, they have little residual value. DIYers buy them for peanuts, and get many years more life out of them. Some things will fail, most can be spotted before they bring they cause breakdown. In 10 years of running 6 Omegas I have suffered 4 crank sensor failures (1 3.2, 3 2.5s), 3 cam sensor failures (2.2s), 3 starters, 3 alternators, and 2 aux belt tensioner bearing seizures.
Apart from a spare wheel, I carry no spares. I have found crank sensors usually recover on cooling down, and get me home.
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I'd be more worried about the half marathon ;D
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As a comparison for the OP, I can say with about 10 years, same as you, Terry, and two Omegas the list goes...
Crank sensor (2.5 V6)
Coil Pack (2.5 V6) (down to zero breather maintenance)
'Hydraulicked' (2.5 TD) (gallon of water got poured into the air intake - don't ask how :o ::)) but after draining ran perfectly fine
Starter Motor (2.5 TD)
Old, brittle leak off pipes required replacement (2.5 TD)
Ignition barrel seized (2.5 TD)
Drive belt snapped (2.5 V6) (less than 6 month old Genuine Vx one - odd! the cracked old one it replaced hadn't snapped, but the BN one did!)
Gearbox went into 'Limp Home' mode twice (gearbox oil & filter changed, no maladies since)
Can't recall anything else. And much of the above is really under 'maintenance' not fair to say 'the car broke' other consumables exhausts, tyres etc of course aren't mentioned.
The only genuine honest-to-good 'breakdown' was the Crank Sensor, about 8 years ago. A used one went on, and still going strong. I'm sure an alternator replacement must be in there somewhere, but not 100% :)
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Newpod , I've a spare working sensor on my breaker you are welcome to, I'm possibly down your way on Sat doing some work on a car.
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Newpod , I've a spare working sensor on my breaker you are welcome to, I'm possibly down your way on Sat doing some work on a car.
Doing some work? You sure you're a scouser? ;D
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Newpod , I've a spare working sensor on my breaker you are welcome to, I'm possibly down your way on Sat doing some work on a car.
Ah well, Saturday (early) I'm heading to Cardiff (220 miles) with my wife and her sister, in said omega. - Assuming that I buy it tomorrow and the buyer hasn't been bullshitting me.
I'm actually bricking it. WCPGW ?
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I'd be more worried about the half marathon ;D
Given that I'm almost 50, and was 16 stone in April, when I decided to do it, I HAVE been worried, but last night I did my last training run.
On my first training run, I managed 50 yards before I had to stop.
After 4 weeks of training I couldn't actually walk and had to seek the services of a sports physio.
Until last night I'd never run more than 4 miles without having to stop, although I was doing 8 miles with a combination of walking and running in 1 hour and 20 mins.
Last night in my last training run, I managed to run 9 miles without stopping, in 1 hour 30 mins.
If anyone wants to sponsor me https://www.justgiving.com/fundraising/Grace-Jackson2
we are raising money for :
https://www.ambitiousaboutautism.org.uk/
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I'd be more worried about the half marathon ;D
Given that I'm almost 50, and was 16 stone in April, when I decided to do it, I HAVE been worried, but last night I did my last training run.
On my first training run, I managed 50 yards before I had to stop.
After 4 weeks of training I couldn't actually walk and had to seek the services of a sports physio.
Until last night I'd never run more than 4 miles without having to stop, although I was doing 8 miles with a combination of walking and running in 1 hour and 20 mins.
Last night in my last training run, I managed to run 9 miles without stopping, in 1 hour 30 mins.
If anyone wants to sponsor me https://www.justgiving.com/fundraising/Grace-Jackson2
we are raising money for :
https://www.ambitiousaboutautism.org.uk/
I'm sure the Omega will make the distance, You....meh ;D . Autism's a worthy cause and a close one to a few members hearts, good luck on both fronts :y
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Newpod , I've a spare working sensor on my breaker you are welcome to, I'm possibly down your way on Sat doing some work on a car.
Doing some work? You sure you're a scouser? ;D
I genuinely work 7 days a week ya wee ballbag ;)
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So, I went and did it. MV6 purchased. Only issue apart from the dented rear passenger door (anyone got a spare one in blue?) was that the brakes are grabby, and the car pulls to the left under hard breaking. But price lowered to take it into account.
Wife not seen it but not happy. Not sure why.
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So, I went and did it. MV6 purchased. Only issue apart from the dented rear passenger door (anyone got a spare one in blue?) was that the brakes are grabby, and the car pulls to the left under hard breaking. But price lowered to take it into account.
Wife not seen it but not happy. Not sure why.
Most important question is....are you happy ?
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So, I went and did it. MV6 purchased. Only issue apart from the dented rear passenger door (anyone got a spare one in blue?) was that the brakes are grabby, and the car pulls to the left under hard breaking. But price lowered to take it into account.
Wife not seen it but not happy. Not sure why.
How do you mean grabby?
As for pulling - in addition to usual suspect (front wishbone bushings), do check (or have somebody check) if brake calipers have siezed. I had a similar situation recently - car pulls right, steering wheel goes left, and it was siezed slider on left front caliper.
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So, I went and did it. MV6 purchased. Only issue apart from the dented rear passenger door (anyone got a spare one in blue?) was that the brakes are grabby, and the car pulls to the left under hard breaking. But price lowered to take it into account.
Wife not seen it but not happy. Not sure why.
Most important question is....are you happy ?
Oh, that seems a shame. Unfortunately there's potentially several months of fettling to come to get this car in tip top 'shouldn't be much trouble for a couple of years' condition. Which if she's not happy now, I can imagine some heated conversations :( If it's pulling I'd advise a complete from suspension change, as has been mentioned, with associated geo setup. Then it really wouldnt hurt to whip the calipers apart and refurb them, might as well get some pain on them while there. That should sort out any drifting/pulling.
However to an unsympathetic ear, I can imagine it being distilled down to 'why have you bought an old broken car?'
That's ignoring Work's Mundano company car, which is serviced to death, which now needs some minor repairs, totally £600 + vat. After enduring 3 years of ''oooh is that old car of yours broken again?'' I thought it fair to point out my 'repairs' for the year total £140 - and that's actually including major service, and none of it 'broken' - all just service items and maintenance. 6 yr old Frod vs 20 year old Vauxhall. :)
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Overlooking the fact that it's just been MoTd... ::)
If it has been standing, chances are that the brakes simply need a service... ie calipers and pads off, cleaned and appropriately lubricated and then reassembled.
New rear discs/pads might be in order looking at the MoT advisories ;)
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True, it could, and in fact is most likely to be just the brakes. Pulling to one side under braking, is either brakes, low tyre pressure, or wishbones.
Everyone (well, some do/some don't) knows that an MoT isn't a bill and guarantee of perfect car health. If an MoT were a warranty of 365 day's trouble-free future motoring we'd all be better off, in evenings lost and money spent.
Fair point, it's passed the MoT so the suspension is 'fine' but I'd be tempted to get a geometry check if I'd just bought an Omega (which is free) - it's bound to be off, let's be honest. Soon as it's decided to get it sorted you then face 'get the geometry set up on suspension of unknown age/quality', or 'replace with new/refurbed, then do it', thus guaranteeing yourself donkey's years peace of mind. Depends how you want to run a car - pass the MoT, do nothing until next time. Or spend the year on preventative maintenance and servicing etc, to do your best to avoid nasty surprises come the next test. :) Each to their own. :)
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True, it could, and in fact is most likely to be just the brakes. Pulling to one side under braking, is either brakes, low tyre pressure, or wishbones.
Everyone (well, some do/some don't) knows that an MoT isn't a bill and guarantee of perfect car health. If an MoT were a warranty of 365 day's trouble-free future motoring we'd all be better off, in evenings lost and money spent.
Fair point, it's passed the MoT so the suspension is 'fine' but I'd be tempted to get a geometry check if I'd just bought an Omega (which is free) - it's bound to be off, let's be honest. Soon as it's decided to get it sorted you then face 'get the geometry set up on suspension of unknown age/quality', or 'replace with new/refurbed, then do it', thus guaranteeing yourself donkey's years peace of mind. Depends how you want to run a car - pass the MoT, do nothing until next time. Or spend the year on preventative maintenance and servicing etc, to do your best to avoid nasty surprises come the next test. :) Each to their own. :)
It passed the MoT a mere three days ago ::) advisories were both rear discs and an oil leak.
Given that it's been stood, it's clearly going to need work/use to fettle it ;)
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Hang on, I'm becoming more confused. I suggested it may want it's brakes and also suspension looking at, in part because it's pulling under braking...in part because they always want their front suspension looking at. Your suggestion was this is unnecessary because it's got an MoT, passed recently; just do the brakes.
You now state that given that it's been stood, it's clearly going to need work/use to fettle it. I'm not sure how we've managed to disagree while you also agree with me ??? ;D
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If brake imbalance or worn bushes were present they would have been noted as advisories at the very least, especially if a pull was evident.
Op mentions slightly grabby brakes. Nothing more, nothing less. From the MOT advisories, I would start with the rear brakes.
It stands to reason also that there will be all sorts of things that the car will need, including regular use, to clear any cobwebs and also to get it to the Ops level of satisfaction. This last point varies from person to person... For some, it is enough that it scrapes through the MOT every year, and for others, attacking it piece by piece over three or four years as you are is a minimum level of care.
It stands to reason that things will crop up as the car is used/the OP becomes accustomed to it.
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First thing I Need is a Rear passenger door in 69L ? Blue.
I've manipulated the hinges back into place
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Has anyone mentioned the need for a spare crank sensor yet ? ;D
Should I keep one in the boot just in case, or replace the existing one, just in case ?
Omegas are no worse for crank sensor failure than any other car. If you're worried about it, then buy a new, genuine one from a dealer(this is true for all marques), fit it, and forget about it.
Omega V6 has a problem in that a duff/failing crank sensor does leave you stranded. Of course, some other cars do as well, though many cars do actually still limp you home when the crank sensor fails.
That's why I always pop a brand new, still in box, bought from a dealer over the counter, spare crank sensor in the boot* when I go on a long trip.
* Well, between the back seats and the gas tank.
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I hope I'm not butting in but I agree with the posts about crank sensors. On my 2.5 Omega it drove to work here fine, then when I went out (in the p-ing rain) to go home 8 hours later it wouldn't start. The sensor had failed just sitting there parked! Fortunately I had another car so got home OK but a new crank sensor fitted a few days later and away we went.
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We've discussed this before, but fitting at the roadside is not so easy. I guess the technique is as follows:
Jack up n/s front wheel as high as possible with car jack;
place spare wheel below n/s front wheel; lower and remove jack;
crawl under car with torch, remove torx screw retaining sensor; remove sensor;
insert new sensor, replace screw;
open bonnet; haul new sensor lead up to bonnet level; jack car up again; remove spare wheel; lower jack, sling jack in the boot;
working under bonnet, find sensor lead connector under the scuttle; disconnect old cable; connect new cable;
fix new lead clear of exhaust downpipe; start engine.
So I need to carry spare sensor, torx driver and ratchet, and pray it does not fail on a wet night. It sounds a fag, but better than hanging around 3 hours to be rescued.
I understand TB has done it, has anybody else?
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Should I keep one in the boot just in case, or replace the existing one, just in case ?
Omegas are no worse for crank sensor failure than any other car. If you're worried about it, then buy a new, genuine one from a dealer(this is true for all marques), fit it, and forget about it.
Omega V6 has a problem in that a duff/failing crank sensor does leave you stranded. Of course, some other cars do as well, though many cars do actually still limp you home when the crank sensor fails.
How does that work then?
And to the OP, buying a new part just in case and not fitting it is retarded. You could make a case for keeping the old one as a spare, but the reality is that this 'problem' is over exaggerated.
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Should I keep one in the boot just in case, or replace the existing one, just in case ?
Omegas are no worse for crank sensor failure than any other car. If you're worried about it, then buy a new, genuine one from a dealer(this is true for all marques), fit it, and forget about it.
Omega V6 has a problem in that a duff/failing crank sensor does leave you stranded. Of course, some other cars do as well, though many cars do actually still limp you home when the crank sensor fails.
How does that work then?
And to the OP, buying a new part just in case and not fitting it is retarded. You could make a case for keeping the old one as a spare, but the reality is that this 'problem' is over exaggerated.
I believe some engines (well ECU's really) can run in Limp via the cam sensor.
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We've discussed this before, but fitting at the roadside is not so easy. I guess the technique is as follows:
Jack up n/s front wheel as high as possible with car jack;
place spare wheel below n/s front wheel; lower and remove jack;
crawl under car with torch, remove torx screw retaining sensor; remove sensor;
insert new sensor, replace screw;
open bonnet; haul new sensor lead up to bonnet level; jack car up again; remove spare wheel; lower jack, sling jack in the boot;
working under bonnet, find sensor lead connector under the scuttle; disconnect old cable; connect new cable;
fix new lead clear of exhaust downpipe; start engine.
So I need to carry spare sensor, torx driver and ratchet, and pray it does not fail on a wet night. It sounds a fag, but better than hanging around 3 hours to be rescued.
I understand TB has done it, has anybody else?
Yep x2. T'was great fun! ::)
But yes, always carry a spare crank sensor, torx socket and ratchet and piece of wood to stand the jack on in the boot now.
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Not wanting to be a killjoy, but the replies to this topic 'encourage me to buy an MV6' would put most people off, although it's been interesting reading so far..............
I guess it all boils down to - Do you feel lucky?
In over a quarter of a million miles of Omega ownerships I've replaced 1 crank sensor, and half the problem was its routing close to the exhaust. The replacement sensor wiring now runs nearer the ABS unit, as do most that are replaced by others.
What amuses me (or sometimes keeps me awake at nights) is what else should I be carrying in the boot, just in case? Blocks of wood to chock the wheels when using the Vauxhall jack, axle stands, a full set of sockets, spanners and screwdrivers, electrical tester, workshop manual, etc, etc. Maybe the solution is to tow a complete Omega around behind - A. to put all the kit in, and B. as a source of spare parts just in case.
Sorry to hijack this thread, but yes, it's all down to luck, and a bit of preparation / planned maintenance and care. :D :D
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I've replaced 2 at the roadside with no problems ;)
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Should I keep one in the boot just in case, or replace the existing one, just in case ?
Omegas are no worse for crank sensor failure than any other car. If you're worried about it, then buy a new, genuine one from a dealer(this is true for all marques), fit it, and forget about it.
Omega V6 has a problem in that a duff/failing crank sensor does leave you stranded. Of course, some other cars do as well, though many cars do actually still limp you home when the crank sensor fails.
How does that work then?
As VXL V6 says, some engines can limp you home using the cam sensor. The 2.0 and 2.2 petrol Omegas for instance.
With the V6, its a trip on the tow truck...
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To partially answer TickTock, I know what you mean - it does sound like an offputting thread! But of course this is centres around problems with the Omega, not the benefits. There's a list as long as the Humber Bridge of things which we could mention the Omega doesn't suffer with/not a major problem, which lots of other cars do suffer from. There's plenty of potential problems, as with any car, but which of those problems you personally encounter would, statistically/in reality, be in the minority. There's a lot of blokes on here many with more than one car, so say one problem a week between all of us isn't so bad an average.
Most of the problems are really just niggles and us trying to get things tip top/as new, rather than critical 'stranded by the roadside' failures. Also a lot of overthinking on certain members parts (such as me) comes into play, too. Can i scientifically measure my fuel trims / ignition timing being my latest stupid thought. There's nothing wrong with my engine, that I can tell, I'm just looking for a problem! :D
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To partially answer TickTock, I know what you mean - it does sound like an offputting thread! But of course this is centres around problems with the Omega, not the benefits.
The strongest benefit of Omega is it's depreciation.
Not for those who bought the car new, though.
But for us who bought them in last 10 years, definitely.
What you pay vs what you get is really hard to beat.
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In four years of ownership my MV6 never let me down, I had a misfire due to leaking cam covers which I replaced and cleaned the breathers out to prevent it happening again and replaced the HT leads with some from Euro Crap Parts for less than £50.
You get a lot of car for your money, they`re a good drive, go well and handle well, enjoy it and don`t get paranoid about it breaking down :y
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Both my MV6's 3.0 and 3.2 are blinding cars and have been ultra reliable,and although they need a bit of fettling from time to time,what car doesn't? People ask why do you drive old cars? I tell them it's because I can't afford a new one ::) I'm never going to tell them the real reason..because they just wouldn't understand :)
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Both my MV6's 3.0 and 3.2 are blinding cars and have been ultra reliable,and although they need a bit of fettling from time to time,what car doesn't? People ask why do you drive old cars? I tell them it's because I can't afford a new one ::) I'm never going to tell them the real reason..because they just wouldn't understand :)
Most people wouldn't :(
I'm fortunate that I only use my car once, maybe twice a week, with the longest round trip being about 60 miles, so with it on the driveway most of the time I can afford to tinker with it...... and that kinda sums up my interest, or fetish for these old motors. I'd like to think that most of the common issues have been addressed on my CDX, and doing the work myself (when I'm in the mood and can spare a few hours) can be very therapeutic.
Get one and pay for someone else to do all the work can work out costly, so to sum up in my case - it's a hobby, and still stand my comment that luck plays a big part in driving anything 16 years old. ;)
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For me it's the reverse,my days of scrabbling around under cars are over,years ago cars were simpler to fix and gradually they have understandably had to become more complicated.I have gained through watching OOF members like James V6, Daz Taxi Al and Serek a thorough 'hands off' working knowledge of the Omega.I find it better for my sanity to allow these guys to problem solve and do the fix,because where you find it therapeutic,I find that my anger management issues tend to manifest themselves PDQ, and having a large selection of tools to make a choice from,I'm pretty liable to use the biggest hammer in the most inappropriate way on the car >:( >:( >:( ;D
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Not wanting to be a killjoy, but the replies to this topic 'encourage me to buy an MV6' would put most people off, although it's been interesting reading so far..............
I guess it all boils down to - Do you feel lucky?
In over a quarter of a million miles of Omega ownerships I've replaced 1 crank sensor, and half the problem was its routing close to the exhaust. The replacement sensor wiring now runs nearer the ABS unit, as do most that are replaced by others.
What amuses me (or sometimes keeps me awake at nights) is what else should I be carrying in the boot, just in case? Blocks of wood to chock the wheels when using the Vauxhall jack, axle stands, a full set of sockets, spanners and screwdrivers, electrical tester, workshop manual, etc, etc. Maybe the solution is to tow a complete Omega around behind - A. to put all the kit in, and B. as a source of spare parts just in case.
Sorry to hijack this thread, but yes, it's all down to luck, and a bit of preparation / planned maintenance and care. :D :D
I guess it is the umbrella syndrome, if you carry one it never rains. I carry a spare CS and HBV in the boot. They take up no room, and I feel more comfortable, on overseas trips especially. À chacun son goût. :y
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I have driven it 780 miles at 31.5 mpg, average speed was 65 mph, for the first 400 miles and now 45 mph.
Almost definitely the braking issues appears to be a warped front disc. Will investigate further tomorrow.
Wife was VERY unhappy, and is now less unhappy, as she sat for 4 hours to Cardiff and 5 hours back with no pain. Which is one of the reasons for wanting one. she has some back issues, and the mk4 astra is the most uncomfortable ride ever.
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I have driven it 780 miles at 31.5 mpg, average speed was 65 mph, for the first 400 miles and now 45 mph.
Almost definitely the braking issues appears to be a warped front disc. Will investigate further tomorrow.
Wife was VERY unhappy, and is now less unhappy, as she sat for 4 hours to Cardiff and 5 hours back with no pain. Which is one of the reasons for wanting one. she has some back issues, and the mk4 astra is the most uncomfortable ride ever.
My wife never fails to mention how comfortable she finds the car, when she rides in it, with which I concur, and is one of the main reasons that I love the cars. The second being the minimal amount I have spent on servicing over the 17 years of ownership. :y
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Wife was VERY unhappy, and is now less unhappy, as she sat for 4 hours to Cardiff and 5 hours back with no pain. Which is one of the reasons for wanting one. she has some back issues, and the mk4 astra is the most uncomfortable ride ever.
As someone with a particularly sensitive back, I have no troubles doing 900 miles in a day in an Omega. Other than Mrs TB has to do a stint for a couple of hours whilst I close my eyes.
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Almost definitely the braking issues appears to be a warped front disc. Will investigate further tomorrow.
Don't rule out worn wishbone bushes, not dissimilar sensation.
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Almost definitely the braking issues appears to be a warped front disc. Will investigate further tomorrow.
Don't rule out worn wishbone bushes, not dissimilar sensation.
I will be taking the wheels off to further investigate shortly.
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The problem with the 3.2, is its sh*t. The 3.0 engine is far, far better on fuel. The 3.2 offers no significant difference in performance to compensate for this appalling fuel use.
The drive by wire V6s also idle like a bag of spanners, the old valve setup on the 3.0 is far smoother.
Performance is good, not great, not amazing. Just good. A modern 6 pot diesel will make mince meat out of the 3.2, the long gearing really does not help. 8 speed auto diesels will easily keep pace.
I would never buy a 3.2 again, prefer a 3.0 auto or 2.5 manual. That said the 3.2 will be my last Omega, its days are numbered.
Why not a 3.0 manual instead of a 2.5 manual?
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Almost definitely the braking issues appears to be a warped front disc. Will investigate further tomorrow.
Don't rule out worn wishbone bushes, not dissimilar sensation.
Given the tramlining and the clunk I heard this morning I'm sure you could be right. Wish bones look fairly new, but could be nasty cheap chineese shite.
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Almost definitely the braking issues appears to be a warped front disc. Will investigate further tomorrow.
Don't rule out worn wishbone bushes, not dissimilar sensation.
Given the tramlining and the clunk I heard this morning I'm sure you could be right. Wish bones look fairly new, but could be nasty cheap chineese shite.
If they're not tightened correctly with the weight of the car on the wheels then they'll be bollaxed in pretty short order.
This applies regardless of whether they cost 30p or £300.
Only exception is if polybushes are fitted to the front mounting. :y
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Just had a more thorough look at the service history and both wish bones are ebay specials fitted in March of this year.
Plus drop links and anti-roll bar bushes in the previous year or so
There also appears to be lots of receipts in the years before that, for wheel alignment.
I'm guessing that it's not braked in a straight line for some years. >:(
I say that. But it does brake in a straight line if you let the wheel turn a little clock wise. If you hold the wheel tight it pulls to the left.
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Could be a sticking caliper :-\
But equally could be any number of things... from poor parts to poor fitting and crappy alignment.
Start with the brakes and go from there :y
Omegas aren't complicated, but they are fussy :D