Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Omega Nige on 23 October 2016, 21:52:34
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I was bleeding the brake fluid and snapped off a nipple. Only managed to crack one open, the others are too tight and I didn't want to snap another one off! What's the best way to extract the broken one and free off the others. :-[ Thanks :y
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.... What's the best way to extract the broken one and free off the others. :-[ Thanks :y
I can only suggest a load of Plusgas or similar on the seized nipples.
The broken nipple will need careful drilling out ..... if it was tight enough to shear the nipple, an 'Easy Out' will struggle too or the easiest way is by replacing it
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Careful use of an easy out or a suitable drill should do it ;)
Ring spanners or deep six sided sockets are best for slackening them, then use a pipe spanner :y
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Remember the correct way to use an easy-out: clamp it in the vice and snap it in half before you put it near anything important. ;)
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Remember the correct way to use an easy-out: clamp it in the vice and snap it in half before you put it near anything important. ;)
Well there's that :D
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I have ofter faced this problem on used cars. My technique is to hammer the caliper around the the nipple to break up the rust. Then get a deep socket on the nippple get a T shaped handle on the socket to apply an even torque, then apply gentle torque. If it does not budge I start again with the hammer. Be aware that if you snap it off you have a problem, best solved by changing the caliper.
With this technique I have not lost a caliper in 12 years.
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Careful use of an easy out or ....
But as above, if the nipple was tight enough to shear, an easy out is likely to spread the remnants of the nipple before it unscrewed
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Thanks for your comments I'll give it a go, looks like it will not be straightforward.
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One of the joys in my life is successfully removing stubborn nuts and screws. I used to break them all off, disastrous. On exhaust nuts and many others the trick is to use heat; can't do that on brake nipples. My above technique always works for me. I keep a set of spare calipers as backup, but have never had cause to use it.
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Get a ball pin hammer and gently t wat the ends a few times to break up any crap on the threads first.
As said, always use a 8mm open ring / brake pipe spanner ;)
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saw the thread, and thought stemo's been posting in wrong sextion again ;D
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Snapped one using a deepdrive socket. I think it's because the force wasn't just in turning, but in the 'shear' force applied with the ratchet. A spanner applies only a turning force at that [pivot] point. Ok, for example undo a nut with ratchet and socket, then undo the same using a 10" extension - you have to support the extension/hold the ratchet to keep it 90o to the nut, otherwise it'd just slip right off. This is the same with a socket and the bleed nipple, it's being bent as well as turned.
I think this is the physics, hope I've explained it in a way that's reasonably fathomable! :D
I did the rest with the correct sized spanner, all came out fine. Got spares from the scrapyard, again, with spanner, came out fine. :)
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What is the science between using an open ended ring spanner as against a normal ring spanner on a brake nipple?
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What is the science between using an open ended ring spanner as against a normal ring spanner on a brake nipple?
You should use a spanner(or socket) that fits the fastener as closely as possible. A ring spanner is preferable wherever there is space for one. Brake pipe spanners have a slot to accommodate the pipe, but still grip the easily rounded off fitting as much as possible. Consequently, they are not necessary for bleed nipples which are delicate for other reasons.
Brake pipes are cheap, so I find it easier and quicker to cut the pipe, remove the component and deal with the fittings on the bench. This will be necessary if you bugger up the fitting or pipe struggling with it on the car.
Bleed nipples are consumables, and new ones are only a few pence to buy.