Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Spally on 24 October 2016, 15:51:25
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I'm looking at upgrading the suspension in the near future, not slammed but lowered to improve looks and handling but still be comfortable enough for long family journey's. Any suggestions? 51 plate 2.2 petrol saloon.
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You can go lower at the front that the rear. Omegas are close to as low as they can be at the rear as it is, before the diff constantly clouts speed bumps, drop kerbs, ramps in carparks etc.. I seem to think it's 30mm (MV6 being 20mm lower from standard anyway)
40 or maybe even 50mm might be possible at the front. Don't quote, me, I'm on MV6 -20mm and that's enough for me, I'm the youngest old man in town! :D
Don't forget to factor in a possble quirk... when I replaced my standard with MV6 the back end went up, and now no longer smacks a drop kerb where I park at work. Old, sagged , softer springs, vs newer, but 'lower' springs. You never know, this might even happen with you, too. What I was concerned would be 'too low' for certain town driving, in reality actually helped round-town practicality. :y
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I've had Eibachs on my old Vectra and that seemed like a happy medium with being lower but not too low and still giving a more sure footed drive without compromising driver comfort. They normally go 30mm lower than standard. I just wondered if anybody had any other recommendations and, as in your case, advice such as the quirk. Much appreciated.
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No worries. I know there's people who've actually done it. (well, by which I mean more than standard GM levels of lowering) who will be able to confirm the levels you can sink to!
You're welcome :y
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I've seen slammed ones and they do look good but they're not for me. Just a moderate lowering will do.
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Eibach do a kit which has been proven to work very well on the Omega.
Drops 30mm from standard.
Couple it with Bilstien B4's or B6's if you want it to ride a little harder :y
Poly bush the front of the wishbone then get a full geometry setup ;)
Do this and you will have a Omega which looks pretty good, goes around corners much better then you would think possible and is still pretty comfy :y
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-30mm front, -20mm rear, max. That's from standard. MV6 is already 15mm lower all round.
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Mine's not an MV6 sadly, only a 2.2 CD. Thanks for the advice guys.
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Eibach springs and Bilstein B4'swork well on two of mine, also Irmscher springs and B4's on one of my others a tad better still :y
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You can go lower, just requires camber correction bushes
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Eibach springs and Bilstein B4'swork well on two of mine, also Irmscher springs and B4's on one of my others a tad better still :y
I'll go Eibach as I suspect they'll be easier to find. Lol
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Eibach springs and Bilstein B4'swork well on two of mine, also Irmscher springs and B4's on one of my others a tad better still :y
I'll go Eibach as I suspect they'll be easier to find. Lol
Eibachs, Bilsteins and polybushes turn it into a fairly OK handling car so long as you fit decent tyres as well. Don't forget to modify the camber angles front and rear to take account of the drop or you'll just wear the tyres out in no time. You might be near or at the limit of adjustment on the front. -1.20 on -30mm fronts is the limit on mine and is OK 5000 miles later.
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Eibach springs and Bilstein B4'swork well on two of mine, also Irmscher springs and B4's on one of my others a tad better still :y
I'll go Eibach as I suspect they'll be easier to find. Lol
Eibachs, Bilsteins and polybushes turn it into a fairly OK handling car so long as you fit decent tyres as well. Don't forget to modify the camber angles front and rear to take account of the drop or you'll just wear the tyres out in no time. You might be near or at the limit of adjustment on the front. -1.20 on -30mm fronts is the limit on mine and is OK 5000 miles later.
Thanks fella, appreciate the advice.
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You can go lower, just requires camber correction bushes
Not a good idea as it can lock the rear suspension under load...
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-30mm front, -20mm rear, max. That's from standard. MV6 is already 15mm lower all round.
So since Eibach springs seem to be 30mm lower, does the kit come with different springs for the rear and front?
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-30mm front, -20mm rear, max. That's from standard. MV6 is already 15mm lower all round.
So since Eibach springs seem to be 30mm lower, does the kit come with different springs for the rear and front?
I wouldn't get too hung up on written values. The springs will change the ride height from where it is to wherever it goes, usually lower if you fit lowering springs. Eibach -30mm springs dropped the front of mine by 20mm and the rear by 15mm one side and 22mm (it's now level). As an estate, the important thing is that it retained it's slightly tail up stance so the front/rear relationship is as intended.
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-30mm front, -20mm rear, max. That's from standard. MV6 is already 15mm lower all round.
So since Eibach springs seem to be 30mm lower, does the kit come with different springs for the rear and front?
I wouldn't get too hung up on written values. The springs will change the ride height from where it is to wherever it goes, usually lower if you fit lowering springs. Eibach -30mm springs dropped the front of mine by 20mm and the rear by 15mm one side and 22mm (it's now level). As an estate, the important thing is that it retained it's slightly tail up stance so the front/rear relationship is as intended.
OK, thanks. I just asked because it was said that -30mm front, -20mm rear is max. and if the Eiback set the rear to 30mm it would be then too low it seems.
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Think I'll definitely go for the Eibachs then.
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I'd like to 'give them a go', have a ride in someone's motor which has them (I think there's a lad not too far from me, actually) because they get good reviews, but I do try and keep my Omega as the spongy, motorway-eater she is.
If I had a 3.0 / 3.2 manual which stood more chance of being more of a sports car, then I probably would, give it a bit of the Holden HSV treatment. Or just get a Monaro to begin with!
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You can go lower, just requires camber correction bushes
Yes, with all the same impracticalities of slammed cars. There are no further benefits.
Mine had to be bumped back up to -20mm at the back as I was wearing out the diff casing, and kept bending the rear bumper supports.
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I really don't know how that can happen, my estate is -50 on front and -40 rear, yes the exhaust catches slightly on speed humps and the towbar down the other side but even full of rouble in the boot I haven't hit anything major. Are the saloons that different?
I am mearly saying you can go more than the advice of 30/20mm, it's pretty obvious the lower you are the closer it'll be to speed humps and the less suspension travel will give a harder ride but I'd do it all over again and more of it was cheap enough!!!
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Not after slammed, just a moderate lowering and as I've used Eibach before on my old Vectra I'll probably use them again but just wanted to ask of here for other options. Don't suppose anybody has any pics of their cars on Eibach springs by any chance?
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+1 on Eibach. I have them, its -30mm front and a bit less on rear.
It's still a normal ride, noticable harder (less roll, but also more noticable kick over bumps) and cruise comfort is not affected.
Going lower that this, IMO, will create problems with every-day use. Even with this small drop, I have to be careful when going down the curbs or going on a ramps, not to touch groung with sump or floor.
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I really don't know how that can happen, my estate is -50 on front and -40 rear, yes the exhaust catches slightly on speed humps and the towbar down the other side but even full of rouble in the boot I haven't hit anything major. Are the saloons that different?
I am mearly saying you can go more than the advice of 30/20mm, it's pretty obvious the lower you are the closer it'll be to speed humps and the less suspension travel will give a harder ride but I'd do it all over again and more of it was cheap enough!!!
What is the perceived benefit though? Surely GM got the balance right with the MV6 as one imagines they had a reasonable budget to sort the thing out....
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Vx want what will sell, I want something with no arch gap and a tidy fitmemt to the tyre.
Obviously the car and suspension is designed to all be at the stock high, anything different I guess sacrifices will be made.
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I really don't know how that can happen, my estate is -50 on front and -40 rear, yes the exhaust catches slightly on speed humps and the towbar down the other side but even full of rouble in the boot I haven't hit anything major. Are the saloons that different?
I am mearly saying you can go more than the advice of 30/20mm, it's pretty obvious the lower you are the closer it'll be to speed humps and the less suspension travel will give a harder ride but I'd do it all over again and more of it was cheap enough!!!
Its not really speed bumps that cause the issue, as you naturally go slow over them. Its country roads that the arse drags on, as soon as you get up to a decent speed.
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Vx want what will sell, I want something with no arch gap and a tidy fitmemt to the tyre.
Right, that makes sense, you want to lower for looks - style over substance - that's fine :)
But people wanting to use their cars, especially enthusiastically, would do well to head the -30mm/-20mm advice :y. I ignored it on the rear, thinking it would be fine, but I was wrong :-[
Additionally, wide 235 tyres, such as the rather overpriced GY Assym F1's and most 245 tyres will wear out the wheelarch liners at the front at -30mm with very enthusiast driving.
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I really don't know how that can happen, my estate is -50 on front and -40 rear, yes the exhaust catches slightly on speed humps and the towbar down the other side but even full of rouble in the boot I haven't hit anything major. Are the saloons that different?
I am mearly saying you can go more than the advice of 30/20mm, it's pretty obvious the lower you are the closer it'll be to speed humps and the less suspension travel will give a harder ride but I'd do it all over again and more of it was cheap enough!!!
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What kit is on yours mate im interested in doing mine for drifting ?