Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Andy H on 15 December 2016, 13:42:50
-
There are a few old threads about complete failure of Speedo & Tacho. The symptoms being that ABS & TC still work as normal, all the warning lights still work but the needles on the speedo & tacho just tremble a little without getting off the stops.
Did anyone have a decent fix for this? Someone posted about having researched the chips that convert speed pulse and ignition pulse into needle position but they didn't get very far.
My reason for asking is that I now have a project MV6 that appears to have this problem. James fitted a good cluster for me but I would like to keep the original cluster (and the original indicated mileage) if possible.
-
Does speedometer needle tremble when your car doesn't move?
Also, does odometer work?
-
Cure is a n other cluster.
BBA Reman or similar might be able to repair the old one, assuming that the can locate and access the broken bit :-\
-
Does speedometer needle tremble when your car doesn't move?
Also, does odometer work?
I don't know. The original cluster was swapped out before I received the car (and is now on the back seat)
I haven't taxed or insured the car yet & probably won't be able to drive it until January.
-
Cure is a n other cluster.
BBA Reman or similar might be able to repair the old one, assuming that the can locate and access the broken bit :-\
James fitted a n other cluster which apparently works fine but the odometer reading is less than the original and I am puzzled as to why the range is reading 16 miles to empty but the fuel gauge is reading just under 1/8th full and the low fuel lamp hasn't come on.
I seem to remember there being a guide to deciphering the coding of the MFD - I will have a look & see if I can find it.
Not keen on sending anything off to be repaired - the fault sounds like one caused by the failure of a 20p chip that that I could easily change myself.
-
I see.
Both speedo and tacho have tiny, really small plastic gears inside. Sometimes these tiny little gears fail (crack, etc), just because of old age. The important thing is that if that's the case, the speedo needle won't move when car stops. That's why I asked my question.
I've seen a man who managed to repair it himself, but he's an amatour watchmaker :)
-
I see.
Both speedo and tacho have tiny, really small plastic gears inside. Sometimes these tiny little gears fail (crack, etc), just because of old age. The important thing is that if that's the case, the speedo needle won't move when car stops. That's why I asked my question.
I've seen a man who managed to repair it himself, but he's an amatour watchmaker :)
From what I have read it will be an electronics problem not a physical problem :-\
-
I can only find this guide MID codes (http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90455.0) for the MID coding and it only covers pre-facelift codes :-\
-
Sounds like you need another speedo tacho assembly. I don't know how many variations there are. I expect I have one off a 2.5 petrol manual in my heap which might fit. Would saloon or estate affect the fuel gauge? What colour is the connector to the computer thing?
-
Saloons do indeed have a smaller tank, so the tank calibration will be off... in theory it should under read :y
Is the MID original to the car or the cluster? If the original cluster still has it fitted, swapping them over should sort everything but the range, as this factors the gauge :y
-
Unless the cluster came from another 3.2 MV6 Estate, then it is going to be getting readings wrong.
Sounds like the cluster needs a chat with a tech2 to configure it for the MV6. :y
-
I beg pardon. I initially misread your post and thought you did not have a reading speedo & tach. I now grasp that you have working speedo & tach, but wrong reading mileage total (small beer surely) and wrong reading range and possibly fuel range. Since estate and saloon tanks are quite different shapes this is not surprising. Do we know if James substituted a speedo/tacho/computer from a similar vehicle?
-
I have a spare cluster from a 2.6 estate if it's suit
-
Thanks for the offers of replacement instruments :y
Before I do anything I would like to establish what is currently fitted as it appears to work OK.
This is the coding screen for the instruments currently fitted.
(http://homepages.nildram.co.uk/~aholter/MV6_mid_config.jpg)
Presumably I could just swap the MID from the original instruments if this one is coded wrongly to save a 400 mile round trip to my nearest Tech2 & intelligent operator :-\
-
Thanks for the offers of replacement instruments :y
Before I do anything I would like to establish what is currently fitted as it appears to work OK.
This is the coding screen for the instruments currently fitted.
(http://homepages.nildram.co.uk/~aholter/MV6_mid_config.jpg)
Presumably I could just swap the MID from the original instruments if this one is coded wrongly to save a 400 mile round trip to my nearest Tech2 & intelligent operator :-\
Precisely, as suggested last night ;)
-
Does the temp gauge read as expected? or a tad high?
-
Does the temp gauge read as expected? or a tad high?
What might that indicate? (I haven't started using the car yet so I don't have an opinion about the temperature gauge in either the pod I want to repair or the one that is currently fitted))
-
Does the temp gauge read as expected? or a tad high?
What might that indicate? (I haven't started using the car yet so I don't have an opinion about the temperature gauge in either the pod I want to repair or the one that is currently fitted))
Many moons ago, a member on here was having with the temp gauge on his 3.0 (it was reading slightly high)
The problem turned out to be, was the cluster in his 3.0 were from a 2.5. Telling the cluster (via tech2) it was fitted to a 3.0 cured the problem :y
-
Does the temp gauge read as expected? or a tad high?
What might that indicate? (I haven't started using the car yet so I don't have an opinion about the temperature gauge in either the pod I want to repair or the one that is currently fitted))
Many moons ago, a member on here was having with the temp gauge on his 3.0 (it was reading slightly high)
The problem turned out to be, was the cluster in his 3.0 were from a 2.5. Telling the cluster (via tech2) it was fitted to a 3.0 cured the problem :y
Wierd. I am puzzled how the engine capacity could affect the coolant temperature calibration. Not disbelieving but looking to understand why :-\
I sat in my Elite while TheBoy ran some Tech2 tests on the instruments in my Elite at a lakes meet many moons ago.
One of the tests involved making the tacho and speedo needles move to particular readings. I am still not sure how he did it. I was left with the impression that there is an ECU embedded in the instrument pod (in addition to the TID/MID/GID). I think I am going to have to refit the original pod to check the MID coding and then open it up to see what chips are lurking within.
-
Mid can be removed without fuss and swapped independently of cluster...
-
Generally, failure of speedo that's NOT an ABS fault is the actual speedo itself, and can be swapped in the instrument (but easier to swap entire instrument panel).
Post 1998 ones are programmable, so as long as the markings on the unit are correct for the car (ie, 160mph and redline at 6750 for a v6), a chat with tech2 will sort other oddities.
-
I am puzzled as to why the range is reading 16 miles to empty but the fuel gauge is reading just under 1/8th full and the low fuel lamp hasn't come on.
Ignore that till its got some fuel in it and done some miles, as when its low, the instrument can report low back to MID under certain circumstances (such as very short fills when its empty).
My MV6 has annoyingly been reading range of zero for a couple weeks, but fuel light isn't on. Its really annoying, but suffering badly with CBA every time I pass a petrol station ;D
-
Generally, failure of speedo that's NOT an ABS fault is the actual speedo itself, and can be swapped in the instrument (but easier to swap entire instrument panel).
Post 1998 ones are programmable, so as long as the markings on the unit are correct for the car (ie, 160mph and redline at 6750 for a v6), a chat with tech2 will sort other oddities.
James said that both speedo and tacho were affected. Reading up on general issues with VDO dashboards (admittedly for a previous generation) I found references to a capacitor rated at 16volt that was prone to failure if the alternator regulator failed.
Am I guilty of OCD for wanting to keep the original instruments (& odometer reading) ?